I have a 2007 Passat Wolfsburg. It has less than 3,000 miles on it. The clock keeps jumping forward one hour all by itself. If I don't touch it eventually after a few starts it will correct itself and go back an hour. The minutes never change. I called the dealer and they said they never heard of this, but I could bring it in. What was the cause?
View 4 RepliesThe clock on my wife's '06 2.0T changes one hour every time I get in it. Basically, it's either an hour fast or an hour slow every day.
View 9 RepliesOn my 2004 Accent GL 1.3, the digital clock in the center facia panel seems to always reset itself. At first, I thought it was random, but now I notice that when it does cut out, I have just started to press the brake pedal. It doesn't cut out every time I brake, but it only cuts out when I brake. It comes back at its leisure, sometimes immediately after releasing the brake pedal, and other times much later, seemingly randomly.
The wire harness going into the digital clock has 4 contacts (2 of which have two wires each). I can find no mention of this wire harness in the Body Electrical manual on hmaservice.com, so I'm not sure where the wires come from. The wire harness itself looks fine.
I would imagine that the problem is caused by a short between the +12V (actually, I'm not sure how many volts) wire going to the digital clock and the braking circuit somewhere, but I don't know.
I've owned Acura's for 15 years total and now own my first Lexus. Loving it so far. Just bought a used 2013 GS350 luxury package with only 12,000 miles believe it or not. Spectacular condition. Loving it so far after 4 days!
Quick condition, is there a way to permanently display the digital clock somewhere on the nav screen or is the analog clock the only option? Not a big deal, but prefer digital clocks.
My digital clock on the dash runs fast. Every month it gains 2 to 3 minutes compared with my cell phone and I have to adjust it.
View 23 RepliesThe digital clock in my 2000 Echo is starting to fail, and needs to be replaced. The local dealer quoted my $285 for a replacement.
View 1 RepliesI just got my 2015 LEXUS IS 350 F Sport yesterday and I have a few questions.
#1. When I turn the car on... it loads to the Map/Nav... How can I default it to the Home screen?
#2. Is the analog clock really the only clock? Can I get a digital clock on the home screen/console?
9000 Miles latter: The driver side heated seat has given up the ghost. Also, the digital clock on the dash keep gaining time. VW says there is nothing wrong with the computer and they have thrown up there hands.
The clock has probably gained an hour in the last month. I know the car is German not Swiss but a digital clock should not do this and causes me concern that there might be other ECU issues.
Yesterday I got in my 2000 Rav4 and for no apparent reason the radio, digital clock, and the mirror adjuster didn't work. I checked all of the fuses and replaced one 15amp in the dash but it didn't fix the problem.
View 2 RepliesAs others have mentioned, changes you make to the time don't stick. My clock is always off an hour. Someone suggested changing the time zone setting to compensate for this. I've tried multiple time zones and the clock is always off an hour (either fast or slow).
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon. I got gas this am, and on my 30 minute drive to work all was fine until I got into traffic or came to a stop sign. While at the stop sign the car started to lurch forward or even seemed to be up and down. The idle was fine, completely constant. It was like the car was hopping or wanting to push forward. It did not happen in reverse or neutral and the car was fine while driving. What this could be?
View 4 Replies However, my '07 Wagon has the manual seat with the power lumbar. The problem is at almost 6'4" I need the seat all the way back and to achieve that I have to lower it but I need more support under my thighs because of my sometimes bad back. When you raise the seat it also moves forward which is not good. Other than finding a full power seat from a wreck, (power seat gives the ability to tilt the seat cushion) modifying the existing mechanism?
I bought the car as a CPO 4 months ago and love it other than this. I'm actually thinking of getting out of it but I really can't afford to right now.
I tried changing the settings but all I could get done was F to C and the trip number to KPH.
The digital speed display would be real useful here as the cops are sticklers in the city about the speed limit.
Will the VAG cable do it? I'm still trying to dig it up but most of our stuff is still in boxes.
The Square digital area in cluster where it tells the miles MPG and etc is solid red. why?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 HYUNDAI SANTA FE 2.2 CRTD CDX MANUAL. It jumps when reversing, especially when turning in reverse. Is this normal or is there a fault?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 prius, i replace the original battery with a Optima prius battery about 3 months ago, Never have had any problems with the car but old battery was getting weak. After replacing the battery everything was still normal. Two days ago i came home shut the car off and went in. Next day i had no power(nothing dome light, locks, etc like 12v battery was disconnected), thought maybe something got left on so i jumped it under the hood and it started and ran fine. Let it run for about 30mins turned it off then went to turn it back on, again nothing, I checked the Optima in the trunk and its fully charged and the main 120 fuse is good and all other fuses i can find also are good, But the car has no power to anything or less i jump it from under the hood, jumping it at the optima does nothing. I followed the 12v battery wire till it went through the floor pan under the rear seat still had 14.6v.
Can't tell where the wire goes but the fuse box under the hood has no power. Have also tried another good battery with same results. Is there a fuse hidden some where or could this be a problem with the inverter? I have jumped the car a few times and it will start up and run fine and gas motor will even cycle on/off like normal.
Does this look like a bulb may be burnt out?
It is dark between 5 o'clock on the speedo and 8 o'clock on the tach.
Where are the dash lights and what type are they?
I have a 06 B6 that I am having issues with. We took a trip to Vegas in June and had no problems the entire way. We get home and the next day he starts throwing a CEL. We take it to our mechanic to have him VAG COM it and he says it is running rich at idle. The mechanic says that we may have gotten some bad gas when we left Vegas. Ok, no worries, we put new gas in the car along with some fuel cleaner and it seems to be ok. I drive the car 7 miles each way to work, and the way I break is that I coast into it before I brake. I noticed that the RPM's started jumping around. My husband took it to the mechanic and he said to clean the MAF and to take the intake off. Done, still getting a CEL.
So I take it back to the mechanic and he says its the seal inside the High Pressure Fuel Pump, while because of the CamFlower/Fuel Pump issue the only one in Phoenix is 50 miles away and at an Audi dealership that wanted to mark it up 50%. He also said that it smelled like fuel under the oil cap. So I go and get it, only to get it put on (Wednesday), everything good and then I notice today(Friday) that it is still jumping around. I have had the code cleared today but I am afraid that it is still something else. The CEL is off but for how long I dont know.
My 2007 Honda CR-V has started to vibrate when I am driving around 45-50 miles an hour. Seems to be in the wheels. Doesn't happen all the time. At first I thought the road was rough, but now happens more often only for brief period then drives normally. The majority of the time, it's when I take my foot off the gas to maintain or slow speed. Car dealer took it for a test drive. They told me my tire pressure was too high and took air out, but the problem persists. They checked the wheel bearings, the joints, etc.
View 8 RepliesMy dad has a Jeep Liberty that has been having some trouble while on the road. It's a 2007 and it's got close to 300,000 miles on it. Now, I'm not great with cars - I can change a tire and probably tell you how my oil looks, but even I know 300,000 is a solid amount of mileage for any car to have. A while ago, the Liberty broke down while my dad was out and he had to have it towed to the mechanic. Mechanic said he thought a plate within the battery had shifted and so he replaced the battery. Not long after that, the car died on my dad again. He describes the car as going haywire right before he has to pull over. Indicator lights starting going on, dials (such as the tachometer) would jump back and forth and the engine would rev without hitting the accelerator. And after he stops the car, it doesn't start up again.
When my dad was able to get it back to the mechanic after that second instance, the mechanic said he thought the Electronic Control Unit (ECU?) might have been fried by the battery and had it sent to the dealer to have the unit replaced. They replaced the control unit and the car ran for a while, but sure enough while my dad was out one day, the check engine light came on and it appeared that the car was once again going to freak out and die on him. He was able to make it back home, yet the car has been sitting in the driveway ever since. I turned the Liberty on today and just moved it around the driveway and I noticed the check engine light is still on and a "Part-Time" indicator light that is on, but flickered while I had the car running.
From what I understand, the Check Engine light has been perpetually lit at many times during the life of the car even after tune-ups and inspections. Could this be an electrical problem or mechanical? My dad thinks it might have something to do with the transmission, since it has been replaced before. Now, my dad and I are both aware that the Liberty is close to being laid to rest, but we also both think that it's still got some life in it worth trying to save. I had a problem with my motorcycle that seemed similar to this problem, between the haywire tachometer, the engine revving without hitting the gas, and not starting up after stopping the engine. Turned out that it was a short that caused that problem and it was quickly fixed by a mechanic. I know that does not mean it will be the same diagnosis, but that is what the Liberty problem sounds like to me.
Started the car the other day and a loud whining noise followed by the car "jumping" when I stepped on the gas. It would go/stop for a second, then shut down. Mechanic who is not a Prius expert said it was the tranny. He could put in a used one (77k miles). Car has 250k miles on it. Is it worth it? Or should I just part it out. I'm worried about things like the battery going next.
View 8 Replies