Passat (B6) :: 2007 - Burning Oil At Alarming Rate
May 9, 2010
I have a 2007 passat when I drive it constantly to turn the engine off immediately because the oil is low, it even did this right after having the oil changed. I had the oil pumped changed at the dealer per their recommendation and even after that the car still gave me warnings about low oil every time I drive it. it's to the point now that I am afraid to drive the car. I had the car chipped at 1500 miles there is now 77,000 on it so I've basically had it chipped since new.
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My 2004 V8 phaeton has been burning oil at what seems like an alarming rate. between services it uses 5-6 US quarts. at the last service (~45k miles) i mentioned this to the mechanic who took a look around and could not find any signs of leaks. since then i have put in 5-6 quarts of oil, one quart at a time when the check oil warning come on, usually after or during a long road trip and I just took it in for its 60k service ( since i was late on the 40k, and because i was living a stereotype by having my other car still in the shop, and yes its a jaguar, i decide to wait until 60k for its next service.) The service rep told me he had looked up the technical bulletin and it stated that the v8 phaetons can burn up to 0.2quarts/600miles, and this would be considered normal.
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I have an '04 Saab and have been a little concerned about it's corrosive future. In the last year I've noticed many tiny rust specs all over my car. I've always kept up with washing it, especially in Winter but nonetheless the problem seems to be getting worse. What should I do? Is there a shop I should go to to have it coated with a rust treatment or get it painted? Is that sort of thing expensive? Is there a way I could have prevented this?
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So I decided to start the year with fresh oil. Like the hundreds of oil changes before, i changed the filter and added new oil. Only this time, oil started to drip off the bottom of the Oil filter at an alarming rate, only when the engine was running.
I figured the filter didn't seal well, so I repeated the oil change process. nothing changed, still leaking.
It was really cold (-10 C) when I did the oil change, I mention this in case it is a contributing consideration.
My truck is a 2000.
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I've owned a 2001 Chevy Prizm LSi for about 12 years and it's been burning oil at a rate of about 1 quart every 200 miles or so. No tail pipe emissions or noticeable smoke and no OBDC codes.
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My 2008 Honda Accord started burning oil at the rate of 1 quart per 2000 miles. It currently has 48,000 miles on it. The dealer told me that this is within Honda's specifications. Honda won't do any warranty work unless it is burning oil at the rate of 1 quart every 1,000 miles. The dealer service person told me that if I use their oil and filters - get my oil changes there at the dealership - it will burn much less oil. Question - if they are using some sort of high mileage oil, and it does indeed burn less oil, is this problem considered fixed? Should I hold out for some engine work before the warranty runs out? How should I approach this?
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I had an incident in December where we left the house and drove less than a mile when the oil warning came onto the MFD. I pulled into the local gas station and had to pour two full quarts of Mobile 1 in order to bring the level up onto the dipstick.
As the car is still covered by the VW Assured warranty, I had the dealer check it out but was told that this is "normal" though we never had it happen before (owned for two years). Really, two full quarts is normal?
Now, we have had two incidents since then when the car starts rough and the check engine light flashes. With the first incident, the dealer found that one of the coil wires had "come loose." It is back at the dealer now for the second incident, but i don't see a cable coming loose twice in just a few weeks.
Could these be related to the oil incident? Car is a 2007 early build (2006) wagon with the 2.0T ....
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2011 SE leased in December 2010. I Now have 14,000 miles and my trans has started to slip.
First slip was yesterday on a a fully warmed motor while I was accelerating at a normal rate of speed. I am guessing the car was in 2nd gear (25mph) and the rpms shot all the way up to redline. I let off the gas, coasted for a few seconds and the trans engaged the gear and I kept driving. No cel
Today the same thing happened under the same conditions but this time when the trans re-engaged the gear, the car jerked forward pretty violently.
About 15 minutes later this happened again but at highway speeds (65mph) while cruising. Again, violent jerk and a thump when the trans caught the gear.
After all this I have no CEL. I know if I bring the truck to the dealer they are going to give me the old, "we cant reproduce the problem." Once the trans starts to slip like this the damage has already been done and its just a matter of time before I am stranded on the the side of the road.
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I have 2008 VR6 4 motion wagon with about 98K miles. It has been relatively trouble free and I love the car. To try and make it last I am trying to stay on top of maintenance. I had a VW warranty until 72K and got several things fixed along the way. But, I had asked about the one weird thing it does well before it went out of warranty to no avail ("no trouble found").
The weird thing is that sometimes it sort of stutters when I slow down from a high rate of speed quickly, like exiting a freeway. I described it to my new mechanic (no longer beholden to the dealership mechanics) when I was speculating a new transmission might be in order at some point and he said it was probably an issue with the program that tells the transmission when to downshift and to ask about a software update. I did; none available.
Is it firmware related, how to get it fixed?
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So I've noticed this alarming engine rattle when I first start car as if there is no oil? It only lasts a few seconds! Was it diagnosed with Hyundai? Maybe a quirk of the motor, but seems like over time would cause excessive wear on engine?
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So I use my sunroof pretty regularly and a week ago I opened it to an alarming creaking sound. It opened fine but when I closed it it sits. I called the dealer and even though I only have 20k miles the warranty expired 2 weeks ago. How screwed am I here?
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On Friday (outside temperature 2 degrees), my TPMS started alarming the usual (CHECK TYRE PRESSURE). So I looked at the display and all four "tyres" had an exclamation point. So I took out my $1 tire pressure gauge and all four tires were 44 psi. After re-setting the TPMS, all is back to normal.
I wonder what happened there?
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Been searching but can't find a clue. I replaced my steering gear box. Went fine, but after starting back up. My alarm goes off, my cruise or horn doesn't work and my air bag is giving a code 32.
Is there a ground wire or something I could of missed when installing the gear box?
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I just recently purchased an 07 Camry V6 with the 2GR-FE engine. I looked at the dipstick over the weekend and was surprised to see it was a quart low. I asked a friend about this and he informed me that Toyota engines are notorious for burning oil. Is this true? I previously owned a 94 Camry V6 that did not have this problem. Also, is there anything I can do to prevent this from happening, or slow down the burning.
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I have a 2007 Prius with regular (non HID) headlights. I have probably replaced them 10 times since I bought the car new. Has it been determine what the fix is so they don't keep burning out?
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I have a used Toyota Corolla 2007 that has engine problems
I bought this for $8000 in Dec 2012 and did not realize the previous owner was using synthetic oil. I used the regular oil and changed every 3 mins. At one point I started seeing a lot of smoke and the oil was burning quickly (like in a month for 300 miles). The oil change guy recommended to use synthetic oil and that should remove all the sludge. It's been a year I am using the synthetic oil and I still have the sludge issues.
I took the car to the mechanic today and he is saying the piston rings could have worn out and asking to rebuild the engine and that would cost $2800 including the taxes. My wife will be using this car to drop and pick up the kids from school. So I don't want to take any risks. Should I go ahead and rebuild the engine?
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I am the unfortunate 2nd owner of a 2004 Passat. Purchased it this year with 140k on it. The CEL has been on since June (3days after I purchased it) and despite my mechanics efforts to resolve all the issues he has just given up. It has lots of codes mostly vacuum leak related. Now I am noticing the car is burning oil and the codes the car has now is a vacuum leak code and the Turbo undercharge (P0299). Here are my questions:If my car is burning oil (not leaking) it could be worn piston rings, gasket valve cover and anything else? Could any of those also cause a vacuum leak? The P0299 code, could that be caused by a vacuum leak?
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I am experiencing a strange rubber burning smell coming through their vents.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry with 110,000 miles that is burning oil too fast. A farm mechanic told me I should put thicker oil in it- straight SAE 30. It is a 4 cyl, 2.4 L Automatic. I had a oil and filter change less than 2 months ago, have driven maybe 2,000 miles. The oil is below the first dot. The manufacturer says to put 5W 20 oil in. I live in central North Carolina, so below freezing temperatures aren’t an issue. Last oil and filter change, they checked for leaks and they said it was clean underneath with none. Also, is it possible the car is burning the oil fast because I live in a warmer climate and I’m using the thinner oil? Is it ok to put the thicker straight SAE 30 oil in it? If yes, can I add it to what’s already there (5w 20)?
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So i had a burning oil smell for 2 years. I finally brought it to the shop and had the valve cover gasket changed as well as the chain tensioner gasket. I now have a constant burn smell. It cannot be burn off because when i open the hood i see it dripping on the cat. converter i just cannot see from where. I seems to be right behind the heat shield that covers the edge of the valvle cover. What else could be wrong here?
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A 2000 Passat with the 6 cylinder and automatic transmission. 95,000 miles has a burning smell...especially with the heater on...Changed the oil about two weeks agao ...and now with the heater on the car smells like its burning... You can see smoke coming off the rear of the motor when the engine cover is pulled off. .
Could it be a head gasket?
Could it be a rear seal?
Could it be a valve cover gasket?
Could it be the tranny leaking?
Anything typical of these V6's that might give possible insight? Local car mechanic was looking at the car and said "take it to the dealer" ....
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