Passat (B6) :: 2007 - Burning Oil And Running Rough
Jan 25, 2011
I had an incident in December where we left the house and drove less than a mile when the oil warning came onto the MFD. I pulled into the local gas station and had to pour two full quarts of Mobile 1 in order to bring the level up onto the dipstick.
As the car is still covered by the VW Assured warranty, I had the dealer check it out but was told that this is "normal" though we never had it happen before (owned for two years). Really, two full quarts is normal?
Now, we have had two incidents since then when the car starts rough and the check engine light flashes. With the first incident, the dealer found that one of the coil wires had "come loose." It is back at the dealer now for the second incident, but i don't see a cable coming loose twice in just a few weeks.
Could these be related to the oil incident? Car is a 2007 early build (2006) wagon with the 2.0T ....
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Had this problem yesterday and drove my car home about 3 miles running very rough and very sluggish! I could smell something like burnt oil or rubber when I stop but not too bad_no smoke. We are at a ski resort and will have to drive our vehicle about 70 miles to nearest vw repair shop. Is it ok to drive my passat with this rough condition? I am guessing ignition coil or spark plugs.
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I have a 2007 passat when I drive it constantly to turn the engine off immediately because the oil is low, it even did this right after having the oil changed. I had the oil pumped changed at the dealer per their recommendation and even after that the car still gave me warnings about low oil every time I drive it. it's to the point now that I am afraid to drive the car. I had the car chipped at 1500 miles there is now 77,000 on it so I've basically had it chipped since new.
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My car recently started running rough (felt like it was misfiring). I took it to a local mechanic who went through all the normal possible problems and determined that it was a computer issue but did not have the equipment to diagnose it. I then took it to a VW dealer who said it was a bad ECU. They wanted a fortune to replace the unit so I sent it to a ECU repair shop in the UK. The repair shop said there was nothing wrong with the ECU and I have since put it back in the car which still continues to run rough. What else may be causing this issue especially considering that the VW dealer said it was a bad ECU but the repair shop said it was not?
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Car has been running a little rough and the MPG has dropped from about 26 MPG to about 23. could i need new coils? the check engine light is NOT on. can they be bad without the light being on?
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I have an 07 with the 3.3L and on start up the engine runs really rough and while driving when warm it keeps losing power with a regular rhythm. It almost feels like and injector or ign coil is dropping out. I have no CEL and have recently changed the spark plugs and rear upper O2 sensor.
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So- I take the variant in for a 65000 mi service- i.e oil change- and to get the recall done on the crankcase hose. I pick it up, drive out, and at first stop sign --- it starts running rough and engine light comes on. Take it back- they throw the computer on it and it throws a code for vacuum leak connected to brakes.. they take it back-pick up next day---they had to replace the brake booster (under warranty, extended-nice of em, I guess), because, they say, the cowling plug was plugged and water filled the booster. I HAD smelled musty water smell. But- why did it just go in the shop?? 60 bucks to unclog drain- W.
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So my MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp/CEL) came on a while ago. I haven't had the loot to bring it to the dealership so I just kept on driving. At the same time I knew my CV joints were going bad cause I could hear them clicking when I turn. Well two days ago while cruising down the road the motor all of a sudden started running SUPER rough and had like no power. At the same time the MIL started blinking. I was like a mile away from home so I just drove it home and parked it.
Tomorrow I am going to replace the CV joints but I can't figure out how that would have anything to do with the motor running super rough. When I pulled it in the shop tonight from outside, the car was super sluggish and if i would ease on the gas the rpm would go below 1000 and I thought it was gonna clunk. Oh yeah and a couple weeks ago my cruise control quit working! I only have 70k miles on this thing! It's a 2003 Passat GLS 1.8T automatic with just front wheel drive.
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I have a 2009 SantaFe Diesel and am having a few issues.
Firstly, of late it has been running rough when I back off the accelerator but hold the current speed. Almost like a mis-firing feeling. AT about 1500 RPM
Secondly, I was driving down the freeway recently, the car started to labour going up a long hill, so I tried to kick it back a gear using the accelerator but it wouldn't do it. It stayed in top gear and struggled. I had to manually do it with the gearshift.
About 12 months ago, I was having problems with the car completely losing power on a quick takeoff from standing still (say at a roundabout) but that seemed to fix itself.
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The check engine light came on after cleaning the engine and the engine runs rough. Where to look. 2007 Hyundai Accord.
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I have 07 sscrew with 5.4. 93,000 miles. At start up truck runs perfect. After 20-30 minutes of running motor will start to start running rough at low rpm. Diesel sound. I can rev up and motor clears up and idles fine. Should I replace VCT solenoids? Or phasers? Or both at one time??
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I'm having an issue with a 2008 Passat 2.0T. Engine ran rough one day and check engine light came on! I get the VagCom out, scan the ECU and get misfire on cylinder #2 and #4. Car has 109 000km. Plugs were never changed so I order some new OE Bosch platinum iridium plugs. Go for test drive after having change the plugs and I still get misfire on both cylinder number 2 and 4.
I know coil on plug are prone to be weak on those engines so I go ahead and order 4 new coils which are pretty low cost which is good. Once install on the car I go again on a test drive. car ran really smooth and no check engine light came on. I said fine! I fixed the problem only to discover the day after that the CEL decide to come back on I scan again and this time only get misfire on cyl #2 with fault frequency of 39.
I suspect my injector to be bad but before I decide to remove the intake manifold and spend another 2-300$ in parts. Any way to test my injector with VagCom in order to see if that really is my problem. Also heard the PCV could be a problem but i hardly doubt it would throw a fauly code on just one cylinder.
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My 04 1.8t is running rough with the cel on. i scanned it and cyl 1is misfiring. tried changing plugs. seemed to work while idling but as soon as i accelerated it started running rough again.
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I just got my first dub, and it is a project car. I have had it serviced and it still idles rough when in drive with foot on the brake but idles normal when in park. a
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Had the oil changed yesterday and changed the air filter myself. Car is now running rough, surging, when in drive and stopped. Runs cleanly when moving and surge is significantly less in park and neutral.
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So I have been unable to figure this problem out and so had my mechanic, I am starting to think this car is cursed. I have an 07 outback with about 54000 miles on it, a few weeks ago it through a P0303 for a misfire in the third cylinder, thought nothing of it, light went off in the next couple starts and the car was running great. Had this happen a couple more times but only after the car had been out in the rain. Each time the problem went away. Now the car has sat in my garage for four days, I got out to start it and get an extremely long crank but no turn over. Try again and after 5-6 seconds car turns over but is running really rough and stalls out. Disconnected the battery checked hoses, everything looked normal, reconnected the battery and now the car is running fine.
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Our 2007 Avalon with 65xxx miles on it was skipping and running rough this morning. Running a scan with my VAG-COM gave me these codes.
Mode 07: Pending emission related fault codes Address 7E8: 2 Faults Found: P0305 - Cylinder 5: Misfire Detected P0355 - Ignition Control Circuit for Cylinder 5: Malfunction
Would you say it is time to replace the Coil for this cylinder, or should I do more troubleshooting first?
From what I've read on this forum, it appears cylinders 1, 3 & 5 are at the rear of the engine and are a PITA to change. Is there a good write-up or video on how to change these at the rear of the engine?
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I just bought a 2007 6.0 with 239k miles on the truck, it has EGR delete and ARP head studs. When i bought it the owner warned me of injector stiction...
I drove the truck for about a week, changed the oil over to Rotella T6 with archoil, and swapped out the air filter so far. (previously was non synthetic rotella). I drove the truck 2 more times since changing those two items and then i had a no start issue.
Scanguage2 said it was FICM sync.....so i messed with the wire loom, and got it to start twice but it died right away. (it had ficm sync, then it died and went back to 0) So i ordered a CPS pigtail and was going to change it out today.
Today i went out and pushed on the CPS sensor directly, charged both batteries and the truck started rough but kept running after two times (still haven't changed the pig tail)
Now it starts but is still running rough.
Scangauge 2 Running:
IPR : 23.8
ICP : 581
FICM SYC : 1
FMP : 48.5
The only code i'm getting is P0269 which I'm hoping is only injector 3, a bad injector wouldn't cause all this would it?
I'm just trying to figure out what i should look at next.
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I just bought a 2007 F350 6.0 two days ago, so I was giving the truck a good wash today using a electric pressure washer. The engine bay was pretty dirty so I decided to take some soap and a brush to it. After cleaning it I let it sit for a while in the sun to dry. (engine was stone cold). After it had completely dried out I go in and it cranked right up. I let it idle for a good minute-minute and a half put it in drive and pulled away slowly, right when I touched the accelerator it started running rough, so I popped it into neutral and let it idle for a sec but it was still running really rough so I cut it off not wanting to damage anything worse.
I let it sit and tried to start it again, it just turned over and over. I checked the oil level it was good. So I pushed it back into my driveway to figure it out. I took ICP connector out and tried to start it, just turned over and over. took fuel filter out it was just replaced 2K miles ago it looked a little dirty but not super bad. I put that back in. took icp out again and tried to start it and it started but ran super rough and was dumping black smoke out.
I checked back all ficm connectors and they were all connected. I haven't checked the voltage on that yet, but plan to do that tomorrow. the previous owner had the ficm go bag about a year ago and he sent it off to ficmrepair.com and they fixed it for him. also he had the stand pipes and dumby plugs done as well as the stc on hpop. im kinda at a loss on where to go now other than to check voltage on ficm.
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I have an 03 Passat with about 70K miles on it. My daughter put rug in it this morning (about 7 gallons) and since then the check engine light came on and the car is running really rough at stops. While accelerating, it seems to be fine. It is also getting about 10 mpg less than normal. MIL codes: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, and P0171. He said the P03xx codes were related to misfirings on each cylinder. The P0171 is a bank 1 failure (?). What do those codes really mean and could they be related to bad gas? Sent her off in my TDI JSW so she's not out on the highway if the Passat decides it doesn't want to go anymore.
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So I was driving my 2001 1.8t last night and put the pedal to the floor to make a yellow light and the check engine light began to blink and the engine started running very rough ever since. It idles very rough and it seems like I have lost a lot of the power.
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