Passat (B6) :: 2006 Lags Before It Actually Starts To Move / Sloppy When Automatically Downshifts
Jul 13, 2007
So i have a 2006 3.6 Passat, and when starting from a standstill, the car lags before it actually starts to move. i have to wait over a second for the engine to actually rev once i put the pedal down. the car is also very sloppy when automatically downshifts. I am thinking it must be a problem with the ecu, but i got the car checked out to address this problem but the mechanics couldn't find a problem.
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I have a 98 1500 4x4 with 5.7 the engine started acting like it was out of time.I replaced the gears and chain with no luck, replaced crank sensor still the same.when trying to start it , it starts to roll and then seams like the starter disengages the flywheel. When it does start it lags , misses and backfires. It is definitely flooding.I put it on my scan tool and a P1345 code is produced.(came sensor to crank sensor correlation ) What should I try next? I ordered a new distributor assembly but didn't install it yet.
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I've noticed lately in auto mode (not in sport mode) when I'm going downhill on a section (doing maybe 45-50 mph) of road and apply the brakes, the transmission wants to downshift automatically to 5th gear. I know in Sport mode if you are not using paddle shifters this seems normal. I don't think this is normal in just auto mode, non sport.
I don't think mine is normal as I don't remember it downshifting this much in auto mode. I'm thinking fluid level needs to be checked. I know there is a sensor in the transmission that senses the angle of the car so not sure if it's being overly aggressive or not.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Intrepid. Here's the deal. When I drive on the highway (higher speeds) and then slow down, the car (automatic transmission) automatically downshifts drastically (like throw me through the windshield drastically) and then will not come out of that lower gear.. UNLESS I turn off the engine and restart it, THEN it fixes itself (took me a while to discover this). When I am driving around town at lower speeds this does not happen. Only if I get to higher speeds and then slow down. And one other symptom...SOMETIMES I can just be at a stop light/sign, still in drive, but when I put on the gas to go, it stays, like the car is in neutral, even though the gearshift is still in drive.
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Why my car starts up automatically with 99 MPG on the display? It doesn't do this all the time but when it does it seems as of my "average" mpg for the trip isn't accurate because as I drive it takes the average from 99 and not starting from 0.
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I own a 2004 Passat- 1.8. I want to make my steering and throttle more responsive. The throttle is very slow responding, and the steering is very sloppy. I know this is supposed to be VW's Luxury car, but this would greatly enhance the performance and driveability of this car. How do I do this?
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I have 2015 Camry LE trim. Whenever I start my car and connect Bluetooth, music starts playing automatically. Bad thing is it keeps on playing when I am navigating using Google or Apple map. It will reduce volume momentarily while a navigation instruction is being played and start off again. I can't turn it off completely while navigating. If I hit pause it will stop until the next navigation instruction is played. After an instruction is played music starts again. I just can't turn the damn music off! It's not just the Apple Music app, I have another streaming music app. If I'm listening to that app before entering the car, it somehow starts playing music from that app.
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Sometimes a fan automatically starts from some vent on the passenger side rear seat. It starts and goes off all by itself. What this is and how to stop it. Very loud.
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As the title states, I've noticed that the music on my iPhone starts playing automatically when I plug it in to my MDI cable. Is there any way to stop this? I've looked through the settings in the head unit and in my phone and cannot find anything to shut it off.
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Basically when I'm coming into my driveway (I turn to the right into it) I hit with the right front first and get this shuddering sound accompanied by a sloppy feeling in the steering wheel.
Sounds like the old door stop Springs. I sometimes get it as well when hitting bumps with either side at a time but not when hitting speed bumps or bumps where both wheels hit at the same time.
Went to the dealership but they couldn't reproduce it on the newly built read that's as smooth as glass.....
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So I have this recurring problem where my passat will die while driving, and fail to start. Usually I know it will die because the accel. is sluggish and the power steering is dead (but no light) when i start it, but today that did not happen. It just died completely out of the blue.
When it dies, it cranks for a second, then stops and the dash screen/lights fade out. The most annoying part is that everytime, I get it towed, then it starts.
The first time it happened the dealer said nothing was wrong. It started for them fine. Kept it overnight, and was good next day. Died a month later from same thing.
Second time the dealer said the alternator and battery were bad, got both replaced. (about 6 months ago).
Today it died again, with no symptoms beforehand. Tried for a while to start it, no go. Nothing engine related worked. Auxiliary did though. Had AC / Radio / Hazards just fine, i only used hazards though.
Got it towed, and I myself went and started it right after it got off the truck, it started. Had to give it gas to get it stable, but it started. I had the dealer check it out, and they said they found 3 fault codes that they have never seen, then later told me they did not know, and didn't want to blame anything unless they were sure.
This was right in the middle of a vacation trip 2 hours from home, and I decided i should just turn back. On the way back I noticed that the AC, Cig Lighter, and Heated Seats were not working. On top of that the car felt like it would die at any moment. Almost no throttle, sounded very weak / quiet. And about 25min in the car started stuttering, like it was about to give up. I pulled into a parking lot and tried it 20min later, started completely fine. No sluggishness, but AC etc still out. After that I got it home fine.
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Starts up fine but the car does not move. Car also has loud whine on cold starts coming out of driver side fender. It will also whine above 2000 rpm even after sitting out in the sun but goes away after driving. The car is at my parent's place and will be able to look at it later today..
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2012 2.5 SE Auto 53,000 miles ... A few days ago I started getting very hard downshifts and long upshifts. The downshifts were hard enough that the person at the dealer didn't make it out of the parking lot on the test drive. Most noticeable from 3-2 and 2-1. 1-2 is hard and 2-3, 3-4 and 4-5 take a few seconds to happen. No lights or limp mode.
In recent months I was getting a thump about a second or two after coming to a stop. Enough of a thump that the car would move forward if I didn't have my foot firmly on the brake. They flashed something(the ECU?) claiming there was a TSB for my complaint but it didn't seem to make a difference. I bought the car with 40,000 and the trans never felt right to me. I had them change the fluid just before 50,000 so they couldn't deny a claimed based on failure to maintain.
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My 2004 Camry will not start; I have never had any starting issues before and the car was running perfectly hours before the problem started.
The battery is fully charged
The fuel pump is operating
The ignition and fuel pump fuses and relays are good
When I attempt to start the car everything sounds normal, but engine never starts and the tachometer does not move.
Additionally a soft buzzing noise starts coming from somewhere near the air filter box. The sound can be stopped by removing the "EFI" fuse. Disconnecting the injectors does not stop the sound.
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'97 dodge dakota engine starts and vehicle will move and then engine dies. Just bought it and it ran fine. Coil was replaced by previous owner four months ago. At times it will run fine but is not reliable and wife will not drive in it. Had it towed to dodge dealer and they said it needed a new coil which they installed and still have the same problem and now think it might be the ecm which is mine even if it does not cure problem. Truck has 145k miles and otherwise is in good shape. When it does run, engine is strong, automatic shifts good and all accessories work. But, it won't keep running.
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My 2010 Rx has just recently been doing funny things, and when I mention it to non lexus owners i get the stink eye, as in you're really complaining about that?
So I turn to you, I think you all are familiar with when you press on the break and hit the start button the power seat rolls you into memory 1 (I am the sole driver) well i have noticed that when I do this, my seat moves up about an inch and then pauses while the car literally starts up it then continues to move the chair all the way forward.
Also when i go to lock my car from my keys the chirping confirmation isn't as loud as it once was. its raspy somehow? I was sure if these two things have any correlation but I noticed these two issues together.
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I have a 1998 Passat 4cyl turbo. Recently the ICM module on the air box went out when I had No Fire on 2nd cyl from the front. Replaced it with a MPGauto part for $63. It fixed the problem but, I noticed that now the PRND321 lights are luminated all the time and downshifts hard into 1st gear. Also should I be concerned that I need another catalytic converter b/c I drove another 40 miles with it missing and it (CC) was very hot. Do they break down inside? The car runs great. Is my problem related to this china part not having a special VW code or can the car be reset?
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Dad has a Hyundai Accent that hasn't had the best service history. After discovering this I started doing minor stuff (oil & filter, spark plugs, etc) on the car. The car has done 119,000km and about 2 months ago I decided to change the auto trans fluid and filter, I don't think its ever been done before and the fluid was pretty bad. I followed the tutorials exactly and everything was fine until yesterday. It seems the car get stuck in 3rd and downshifts badly when coming to a stop. When I last drove it I got home and quickly opened up the hood. I could see smoke coming from somewhere near the trans and there was a bad smell. We haven't driven the car since and I don't know what the problem is. I've checked on google and some people have used a scanning tool to get the error code, but the car doesn't throw a check engine light so will the error code be there?
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I'm trying to resolve this issue I've been having. The main symptom I notice is when I accelerate, the power lags before I feel it going to the motor. Then the power kicks in at some point a few seconds later.
From the codes that have come up I've replaced a mass airflow sensor, 2 coil packs, knock sensor, and now a throttle position sensor. the repair manual I have shows the TPS having slotted mounting holes for adjustment but neither the original part or the new one I ordered had slotted mounting holes only circular holes.
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what I have is for the 10-20k miles I've own this car (now at 130k), the first mile or 2 of driving the transmission goes to a higher rpm than normal before shifting to the next gear. Is this indicative of pending failure? It has always done it. Also, I try to do the transmission drain fill every other oil change or so.
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So my screen has been acting up for a while now...not too sure why. I have an '08 350 without navigation. From time to time, the screen will automatically go off regardless of what's being viewed. I took a look and fooled around with some settings (the auto transition from climate to trip or whatever you call it) even tried pushing the screen off button in hopes it would reset or clear the problem. It's just annoying because I have to constantly re-awake the screen only to have it happen again moments later...
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