Passat (B6) :: 2006 - Runs Rough Only At Idle
Oct 4, 2011
I'm working on a 06' Passat 2.0t and it runs rough only at idle like its misfiring only vag-com says no misfires and no engine codes. MAF looks like it may be a little low on performance but should be ok. I tried swapping out coil packs but no change. I changed the pcv breather and hose, cleaned the carbon off the valves, swapped the throttle body with a known good one, and changed the piston on the fuel pump and still no change. It smooths out when I turn the a/c on but that's the only thing that changes the idle.
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It happens in the morning or on cold starts. The car has a rough idle and the throttle response is terrible. Its very sensitive and jerky. Could this be bad spark plugs? Its a 2006 2.0T and its had all the maintenance done.
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I've taken it to a half dozen mechanics, none can diagnose the problem. From a cold start the engine idles well, but once it warms up and the fast idle setting shuts off, it begins to vibrate quite a bit. I rebuild that included an all new fuel injection system, new ignition parts (including distributor, replaced at a later date,) new wire to alternator (the old one had cracked insulation,) and a new mass airflow sensor (swapped in from a parts van-no effect.)
Basically everything is new except for the sensors (crank sensor, idle air, throttle position, etc.,) and the fuel filter and pump. I'm not getting any codes, and at least two mechanics said it had good fuel pressure. It FEELS like a vacuum problem on a carburetor vehicle, but I had the vacuum harness checked as well, and everything seems to be in order.
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I have a 2000 Corolla with about 147,000 miles. At idle it runs very rough, but can accelerate up to about 50 mph. Then it starts to cough and wheeze and run roughly again and won't accelerate any further. It feels like the engine will shake itself off its mounts, so I slow down and stay under 50 mph. I replaced spark plugs and a repair place hooked it up to a computer. They then told me it needed about 1800 dollars worth of repairs to replace the valve cam I think they said. I'm skeptical and wonder if it just needs a tune up, . It has not had one since I bought it at 128,000 miles, and II don't know how long it had been prior to that.
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My 98 Maxima won't idle without dying, it sputters when you accelerate, and it tries to die while coasting. I've changed two O2 sensors (AutoZone gave me the code for bank 1 sensor 1 & 2) changed spark plugs, tried fuel injector cleaner, oil change, and cleaned MAF sensor & checked the wiring. It;s still spitting out the black exhaust. Although after changing the O2 sensors it quit for about a day or two but started again (I'm guessing the other sensors need to be changed to) But the main problem is once it warms up, it really runs like crap, and is a major gas hog. I'm getting about 12 Mpg.
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I have a 1981 Toyota pickup. when i start her. she starts fine, but sometimes she will idle fine, and then suddenly refuse to. it seems to be random. i can keep her running if i keep my foot on the gas just a little, to keep her rpm's up. but have to put her into N and keep my right foot on the gas and my left on the brake to stop her when she refuses to idle. when she does this on the freeway, it just sputters and runs rough, but as long as i have the gas on, she keeps going.
I don't know what it is that regulates the idle to keep her going when my foot isn't on the gas. also her serpentine belt is slipping. the one attached to the alternator, i can see her charge voltage dropping when she squeals her belt. that i know how to fix, but i'm wondering if it's that, that is the issue? i was told that, but i don't think her serpentine belt has anything to do with her idling. i was told how to raise her idle on the throttle cable and the Idle screw, but is there something else that regulates her idling?
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'91 buick, 3 spd. 0 acceleration in 3rd, trouble code says TCC curcuit. Lopes @ idle when warm, runs rough @ times. many new sensors, timing chain & sprockets, still, the loping.
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The car is a 2000 passat v6 with ~135k, auto trans. Well when the car is cranked it takes a bit to get running and once it does, black(wet) specs come out the exhaust and go all cover the surrounding area of the tailpipe. When the a/c is off it almost sounds like it is running normal but when the a/c is on(at idle) the engine runs very rough, it almost sounds like a misfire. It does have a check engine light, but i have no obd2 scanner, and from what i've been reading might not even do me any good because of vag com?
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Starts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
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Getting these lean codes P1131, P1151, P0171, P0174. I was getting a knock sensor code before but not now. It will not idle it just dies and runs rough till I get at higher rpms gotta feather the brake and gas to go anywhere.
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My V6 3.2l runs very rough for 1-2 minutes at startup when cold i.e. the first startup of the day, or after it has not been driven for several hours. Is this normal? I understand this might be something to do with the 'anti-knocking' feature. But I only use RON 98. Also I can here something like a tappet sticking when idle all the time. Is this normal, is it just a noisy engine design? The car has only done 1800kms.
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Let me start with I have a 2003 f250 5.4. The motor blew on my truck and I had a 100k motor dropped in it. I've put new spark plugs, ohmd out the coils. I tried both sets of injectors. cat delete and new fuel pump. It has rough idle and stalls but runs fine at higher rpms. Also has basically no brakes. I am thinking vacuum but I've check all the lines. No codes either!! also cleaned throttle body.
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I have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
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I have a 2006 Sonata 6-cyl with 124K miles on it that also has an engine light that stays on but the car runs fine with the solid light. Only on a COLD start, usually first thing in the morning, is when the engine light starts to flash and the car runs very rough. When the engine light flashes and the car is shut off for about 5 seconds and immediately restarted,the engine light again stays solid and the car runs fine. I have had this issue for approx 2 years.
One mechanic says the code that always comes up is "P0306" (cyl 6 misfire) when the engine light stays on solid. When the light flashes and the computer is read,it gives EIGHT separate codes and all are cylinder misfires (P0300-multiple misfires and then P0301 thru P0306 for each cylinder misfire).
One dealer in the Phoenix,AZ area says my #6 cylinder valve is sticking and I need a full valve job because they supposedly did a compression test on all cylinders (which I doubt they did). I have spent upwards of $2000.00 already at both the dealer and 2 other mechanics to try and find the issue. I feel it is an electrical problem (sensor or computer itself) because one would think the car should run rough ALL the time if it was the actual valve sticking,but it runs fine when the engine light stays solid. I am running out of time because my emission test is due in 4 months. I do not trust this dealer to diagnose this issue; they have proven to me they are incompetent and just want me to pay through the nose for possible fixes until they finally just happen to stumble upon the correct problem.
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I started my Accent this a.m. The Check Engine Light is on and it runs really rough. I left it here at my apartment - it's that bad. It's got 27k miles.
The only other thing to note is that it's been very cold (for Northern California anyway) - around 45 degrees F right now.
First-time poster, haven't had any problems with the accent except for a sun visor that was replaced under warranty last week. All scheduled services done at the Hyundai dealer.
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My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
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I have had my 06 for 4 months now. I started to get a cold running problem now that the temperature is falling below 40. When I start it in the morning I wait till the idle comes down before driving. I start driving and it runs rough as if it had a choke stuck closed. I spoke with the dealer and he told me to run lower octane in the winter. That has not worked.
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Have a 2006 F350 5.4l that is mainly used as a plow truck. I drive it at least once a week when not plowing just to make sure it runs ok, etc. Only put on about 2,500 miles per year. Keep it in good repair - not by me, but by the dealer or mechanics.
Problem - last two times I started it, it started ok but runs real rough for about ten seconds. Sounds like the engine is going to die. After about ten seconds, it "catches" and runs normal. Have no problems when driving it. If I restart it, it doesn't do this, so it seems to only happen when the engine is cold.
Battery was brand new back in Sept. All plugs were replaced maybe 3 years ago, as was the cat converter and muffler. Run non-ethanol fuel. What might be causing it before I bring it in.
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Changed timing belt after several teeth being stripped. Engine runs but won't idle without foot on gas pedal. Drives smooth as long above 2000 rpm. Thinking there is one or more slightly bent valves. Quadruple checked timing marks. Coils are good. Fuel injectors are good. Spark plugs are new NGK's. DTC's are 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304 - misfiring.
Have a line on a low mileage head with warranty. 2007 Accent 1.6L?
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This problem has been getting worse over the last 2 years. When the car starts it idles fine at about 1000 RPM. As soon as it warms up, it starts to idle rough, between 500 and 750 RPM. It almost quits running. As soon as you give the car some gas it runs just fine. About 3 weeks ago I got a "Engine Lean" check engine light error. I reset the system and have not gotten the error again. Since then I have: changed the MAF cleaned the EGR (made sure it closes completely and ohm out the coils in the actuator) changed the O2 meter on the exhaust manifold cleaned out the throttle body Ohmed out the air idle controller. What I should check next. I was planning to check the fuel pressure in case it is a fuel system problem. It is a 1999 ....
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I own a 2010 elantra. I'm going through plugs like crazy. I've changed it twice and the dealer has changed them twice for a total of 4 sets. I have 64000 Kms on my car. The problem is rough idle when ac is on. I'm assuming drag or load on the engine makes plugs work harder.. So the last two sets of plugs the dealer showed me the plug and the white spark plug casing was burned through? Kinda getting sick of the bandage approach the dealer is throwing at me. He said if it happens again which I'm sure it will they will sort it out in more detail to find the cause.
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