Put new pads on by 2006 Passat tonight. Disconnected the battery removed the calipers and used a 12 volt battery to retract the pbrake then pushed back the pistons. Buttoned everything up but when I started the car had the park brake fault light and car is now in limp mode (3rd gear only with harsh engagements.
Disconnected the battery again and will let it sit.
OK, I just got back from having pads and rotors install on my '99 Passat. I was expecting this to clear up the brake and abs light problem but it did not. The brakes still feel mushy and the ABS light still comes on.What should I check? In the brake forum people suggested bleading the brakes, is this the next step? Any quick how to?
View 3 RepliesI have about 50,000 miles on my pads, they look 50% gone, but couple days ago I've got short "beep" and light yellow came on(circle with several small parts of larger circle). What and why? Rotors, pads, other?
View 4 RepliesI went skiiing this past weekend in Angel Fire, NM. When it was time to leave on Sunday I started the car and proceeded to undo the parking brake (I was parked on a n incline). As I press the button I get a message saying something like "Electronic Parking Brake Fault. Please Service". Then I press it again and it works. Is this something I can expect more of, or could it be due to the cold weather? It was 13F outside then at the time, and the car is a 2006 with 52K on it.
View 14 Replies2001 VW Passat V6 4-Motion...ABS Brake Fault light comes on every time i turn the car on...brakes and antilock work great...thinking the problem is just an electrical error of sorts...
View 2 RepliesWe had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
View 14 RepliesToday the roads were slushy. On my drive to work a strange parking brake fault happened twice. Each time I was driving at highway speeds, not engaging the parking brake. In each case, the parking brake fault light came on, and the car seemed to go into some kind of "limp home" mode: the car would not accelerate or upshift, although it appeared to be willing to maintain around 40mph or very mildly accelerate from 0-20 mph if I stopped all the way. This was not because the parking brake engaged itself and was slowing the car - the car still coasted freely. It was clearly because the computer was limiting the car's power/speed severely. In the first case, I think it came on when I was beginning to apply the regular brakes to slow down gradually for a light; and in the second I was not using the brakes at all but did hit a puddle of slush. In both cases, it's possible the traction control kicked in, although I did not see that indicator light flash. The ABS did not get used based on sound and pedal feel in the first place, and because I wasn't engaging the brakes at all in the second case.
In each case, I was able to pull off the road, shut off the engine/car entirely, and then restart the car to clear the fault and turn off the light. The car drove totally normally from there, as if nothing had ever been wrong. There was around two hours including 90 minutes of being parked in my garage between the two events. I've never had any parking brake malfunction of any kind before with this car. So now I'm wondering when this will happen again. This does not appear to be the common problem of the parking brake button, since it never involved actually applying or releasing the parking brake and never involved me touching the button. I don't like having to quickly go from the left lane of a freeway all the way to the right lane or shoulder when my car suddenly decides to slow down for no obvious reason.
I have a 2003 VW GTI VR6. Prior to replacing the transmission there was no brake problems what so ever. Since the transmission was done I get the "Stop Brake Fault" light on the cluster Intermittently. It never seems to happen when braking. I have new brakes and rotors on all 4 corners. As I said this only started happening immediately after the transmission was replaced. I did check the wear sensor on the pad to make sure it wasn't disconnected during the install. Where else should I be looking? Could it be triggered if they didn't bleed the clutch slave properly?
View 3 RepliesHit a puddle-now car is stuck in 3rd gear... with parking brake fault light lit up. How to fix it? it happened on the highway on the way to work at 70mph . so now i either have to drive home with it the rpms at 4k or get it towed. Car is a 2006 passat with 35000 miles.
View 5 Repliesso today i removed the radio bezel from my 06 and i left the key on like an idiot and now my airbag fault light is on I reconnected the bezel i make sure that the plug was on and still airbag fault light is on.
View 6 RepliesI just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 passat and the check engine light came on so I performed a scan, the results are below. fault codes... which ones would need to be repaired immediately?
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20080823
Tuesday,06,March,2012,18:12:35:26365
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 65 72
VIN: WVWAK73C86P106340 Mileage: 107910km/67052miles
00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
Having issues with the auto-ebrake? My friend has a 09 passat with the push button ebrake. He was changing his brake pads when his ebrake will not release. He was told by VW to not use a c-clamp to depress them as they would mess up the sensors or something along those lines.
View 14 RepliesMy independent mechanic just swapped out some PBR Deluxe pads that he put on with new rotors in June with with PBR Deluxe Plus pads. He did this free of charge because the front brakes were making a loud metallic clunk sound on the first brake application when backing up (weird, no?), and they were dusting like crazy. Back in the summer I followed the bedding-in procedure fellow Vortexers recommended. Aside from the clunk, the brakes were silent, though extremely dusty.
Well, after a couple of drives with the Deluxe Plus pads, I can say that they perform very well, just like the Deluxe pads before them. It's too early to tell if the dust issue is better, but the metallic clunk is still there, though far quieter than before (even with the windows open); I'd say its more of little click now.
But here's what I really don't like. I took the car out tonight to bed the brakes, doing 5 or 6 60-to-30 mph runs, followed by 5 minutes of 40-50 mph cruising with little braking and no real dead stops. All was good until I went to get gas afterward: as I slowed to <10 mph, I heard some squeaking from the fronts. Not hugely loud, but enough for me to be upset about.
Did I do something wrong? They were fine until the bedding-in run. Maybe the temperature (20s) played a role? I didn't think I went too nuts on them. I'm hoping I don't hear the squeak tomorrow. What about the persistent click I hear when braking for the first time in reverse? Could this be related the excessive dust with the PBR Deluxes?
Background: I had new rear brake pads/shoes installed today. The dealership installed them, and let me know that the front wheels still have another 10,000 miles before they'll need new pads. I have 55,000 miles on my Passat. Back in August, I put new Nokian tires on.
So, when I took my car from the dealership, after they installed the brake pads, I went on the highway, and my ride felt different. It was a rumbly roughness, but it was subtle. I am not even sure if I am imagining it, but I don't think I am.
I checked the air pressure of the tires, and it's fine. The invoice from the dealership said "replace rear pads/shoes, service drums/rotors and check wheel cylinders". I do not know how any of that could make my ride have this slight roughness to it.
I recently replaced my pads and rotors and when I pulled everything out there were no shims? is that ok run without shims? my rotors were warped bad and I'm wondering if that was part of the cause? my pads had plenty off life left but I changed them anyways? Doing the rear to since I still feel a light wobble when on real smooth pavement...
View 5 RepliesMy 99 Passat 1.8T eats brake pads and rotors like crazy. After about six months I hear a rattle, which sounds like brake pads came unglued. After a month of rattling, the pads must shift into a new groove on the rotor, and pulse like crazy. I can handle that, but this time the parts store gave me pads without the wire coming out of the pad. I thought the wire was just a brake wear sensor, and I figured I didn't need it, but now my ABS light is on. If that is a wear sensor Can I loop the old wire and bypass the system? I like having ABS. Also, with the two piece caliper, the spring holding the two pieces together broke. Can I get a new spring? Or do I need a new caliper? I appears the brakes function with the damaged spring, but I'm guessing the pads will wear unevenly. Or maybe the abs light is because the pads are seated funny because the caliper isn't sitting right?
View 4 RepliesMy car has about 37k on it; and while the front pads look to be about 50% worn; the rears look like they are closer to 90%. Is this normal? The car is also sluggish while braking especially when the engine is being auto-revved to keep the system voltage up (a known problem). It also seems that the car will step into ABS lock-up mode too soon in a panic stop situation; which might also indicate that the brake system is biasing too much power to the rears; too little to the fronts.
I've never had a car wear the rear brakes more rapidly than the fronts; usually the rears are much more lightly utilized to reduce the tendency to skid. Is there any way to adjust brake bias? I'm getting ready to change rear pads and flush brake fluid.
So my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
View 3 RepliesWhat's with the rear brake pads wearing out before the front brake pads. Took my '03 Passat in last week to the dealer for the recall and the service dept. guy said my brake pads were worn out. I took the car to my local mechanic who specializes in VW's. Sure enough, rears were almost gone but fronts still had plenty of meat left on them. Of course I had him replace the rears. But I always thought the fronts wore out first. Could this anomaly be due to ABS?
View 11 RepliesMy brake pads been rattling around whenever i hit the brake slowly. I think its the front one. My car is 160k miles and still using the original brake hardware kit. Will the new one fix this annoying rattle? I just cant see how a new piece of metal will stop the pads to move around.
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