Passat (B6) :: 2006 - RPMs Jumping Around While Coasting
Jul 8, 2011
I have a 06 B6 that I am having issues with. We took a trip to Vegas in June and had no problems the entire way. We get home and the next day he starts throwing a CEL. We take it to our mechanic to have him VAG COM it and he says it is running rich at idle. The mechanic says that we may have gotten some bad gas when we left Vegas. Ok, no worries, we put new gas in the car along with some fuel cleaner and it seems to be ok. I drive the car 7 miles each way to work, and the way I break is that I coast into it before I brake. I noticed that the RPM's started jumping around. My husband took it to the mechanic and he said to clean the MAF and to take the intake off. Done, still getting a CEL.
So I take it back to the mechanic and he says its the seal inside the High Pressure Fuel Pump, while because of the CamFlower/Fuel Pump issue the only one in Phoenix is 50 miles away and at an Audi dealership that wanted to mark it up 50%. He also said that it smelled like fuel under the oil cap. So I go and get it, only to get it put on (Wednesday), everything good and then I notice today(Friday) that it is still jumping around. I have had the code cleared today but I am afraid that it is still something else. The CEL is off but for how long I dont know.
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I've been trying to figure out what exactly is going on with my car but its hard to explain/describe it so I've decided to video it..
Driving + shifting + holding my phone + my GTI is spun all the way down on coils = shakie video.
In Video #1, I'm in 4th gear at 2800 RPM and gave it full throttle. Watch it closely at 0:04 you will notice how the RMP just jump back a little and then continue accelerating while the boost is holding at 15psi.
Video #2, same story at 0:04 except the boost jumps back as well.
It does NOT seem normal and im not sure whats wrong and where to even start.
Slipping clutch?
Diverter Valve?
Boost/vacuum leak?
Turbo into DP leak?
My GTI is APR Stage II, intake and catless turboback exhaust.
Video #1
Video #2
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I have a 2001 vw jetta 2.0l manual. When the car is running the rpms jump up and Down from about 300 rpm to 900 rpm and I guess that's why the car will stall out every time I press the clutch to stop. Also the car won't run with the MAF plugged in. If the MAF is plugged in it will drive but will not idle the car will just stall.
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My 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem.I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons.Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue.It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning"
Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
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My wifes 2008 Eddie Bauer Explorer V-6 recently started having an erratic idle and we've started noticing it while at higher RPM's. Its almost as if there is a cylinder that misfires but no engine light is coming on. The car stumbles like it is going to start to die, then the idle jumps up and smooths out. A little while later it does the same thing. The car has I think 74,000 miles on it and has never had the plugs or wires changed. I change out the fuel filter roughly every 24,000 miles and did it recently in the spring. Any places where I should start looking? Could a misfire not trigger the check engine light?
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My car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
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My truck is acting up. Last night when I was parallel parking I noticed the RPM was jumping, I then noticed the OverDrive switch was blinking. I turned off and turned it back on and the issue went away. This morning on my way to work, it did exactly the same and it automatically corrected itself. The overDrive ON/OFF light keeps blinking.
My truck : 7.3 Diesel, Auto trans, 86 K Miles, Super Chip.
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I have been having some major issues with my truck!
The whole truck is vibrating when on. When I accelerate I hear a loud noise like something is hitting a fan. I'm scared to even drive it. The rpm's have been jumping around.
What could be causing this? I already replaces Fuel filters.
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2000 neon automatic. My wife was complaining about the rpms jumping around when on the highway going about 65mph. The rpms are around 3000 and jump very slightly up and down and you can hear the engine tone change when it happens. Checked tran fluid and it was low about 3/4 of a quart and added some fluid, changed spark plugs and wires and the problem is still there. Doesn't happen all the time. She says it seems to only do this if the car has been sitting for a few hours or longer. There is an code for the downstream sensor which needs to be changed.
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So my 98 f150 xlt 4.6 is having a issue where the truck is jumping from 1500 rpm to about 2500 - 2600 rpm. You know sitting there trying to get up to speed. then all the sudden i look down and its at 1500 rpm. but still not really going anywhere. So i give it a little more throttle or gas and it jumps from 1500 to about 2500. Its been like this for a month but i thought it was crap fuel. What is the cause or maybe a solution?
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I assume it's normal but at say 35 MPH or so coasting down a hill when applying the brake the RPM's rise to around 3K. Auto downshift to support braking?
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Mechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
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I have a weird issue with my 2002 4x2 manual Nissan Xterra...when I drive along (usually happens when I'm in 3rd or 4th gear), and depress the clutch pedal to start slowing down for traffic, while the gear lever is still in the 3rd or 4th gear position, the rpms start coming down as the car coasts, but then a strange grinding/whirring/grumbling noise starts happening. The noise immediately goes away if I pull the gear lever into neutral, OR if I re-engage the clutch to start accelerating again. So, it only happens when BOTH the clutch pedal is depressed, AND the gear lever is "in gear". What could this be? The car has about 115K miles, but I believe the previous owner changed the clutch recently (80-90K), and the clutch itself feels fine.
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RPM's are dropping way off when coasting downhill while towing (as if the motor shut down), CC is on and maintaining desired speed. When at the bottom of the hill, all of a sudden, with a big bang(in the motor) the rpm's have came back up and you drive on down the road as normal. This seems to happen only when towing. "99 F250 7.3 I haven't pulled any codes as of yet. Whats happening?
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I bought a 2009 Sonata V6 this past August. Immediately I had shifting problems. I asked my mechanic and he found the TSB. I took it to Hyundai and they took care of the TSB. The shifting problems stopped, but it is STILL literally JUMPING out of reverse when I'm going into drive. Dealer said they could not reproduce the problem.
I am a Toyota driver, and chose the Sonata based on price. So far, I am not impressed and plan to return to Toyota when this one is paid off. But, in the meantime, I want this car fixed, but the dealer acts like there is nothing wrong. I have warranty for another 25,000 miles....
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I have a strange problem, my boost guage needle is jumping like crazy, there is no vacuum leak and the max boost i get is 0.5 bar, when the guage needle is not jumping I get a boost of 1.4 bar. I have mechanical boost control.
97' passat B5 1.8T AEB with FMIC,K04-15,2.75",chip (that was made for the original k03).
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I bought a gs 350 AWD about 3 weeks ago and I love it. But one thing I have been noticing is often but not every time from 0-20. I feel vibrations and almost like a skipping/jumping of the tires/car, its very soft. Is this normal?. I still have a dealer warranty of 30 days left. But its kind of far so I wanted to see what it was before I drove 2 hours to have them check it out. what this could be?
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I have a 2007 Passat Wolfsburg. It has less than 3,000 miles on it. The clock keeps jumping forward one hour all by itself. If I don't touch it eventually after a few starts it will correct itself and go back an hour. The minutes never change. I called the dealer and they said they never heard of this, but I could bring it in. What was the cause?
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I am working on my friends 2008 Sonata with the 3.3 V6. They brought the car to me saying that it was screeching when turning the wheel. So I took a look at it and when you turn the wheel one way it would make a screeching noise and the belt would try to jump off of the tensioner. I assume the tensioner is bad, but now I am wondering if it is a crank pulley problem.
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Still relatively new to this car and VWs in general. I have a 2.0T sedan with 39,500 miles. I've noticed this just about every time I slow to around 40mph and then accelerate again. It's like the car can't figure out what gear it wants to be in. I don't mess around with sport mode and rarely shift manually. No real problems accelerating, just a weird shimmy when coasting from say 50mph down to 40mph and then another clunk when I accelerate again.
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I'm wondering if it is OK to shift into neutral while coasting (engine on). I've read varying arguments back and forth on whether or not it hurts it. I've done for a while in my 99 suburban and the transmission still shifts just fine. I've tried it once in the elantra just to see how it affects my fuel economy, and it boosts it about 100mpg (coming off a freeway ramp). Braking and steering controls don't seem to be affected by the lower vacuum.
I can see why its not advised while the engine is off (i.e., towing), but if the engine is on, torque converter turning, transmission fluid pumping, I can't see where it would hurt.
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