Passat (B6) :: 2006 - RPM Flutter While Going Downhill
Sep 30, 2007
My 2006 B6 2.0T (K&N filter, Forge DV) has slowly lost it's "zippiness" over time,, and yes VW says "not a thing wrong with your car sir". Well now, I've started noticing that while going down hill in me neighborhood (about 30mph), note this has occurred before and after the DV install... My car's RPM starts to "flutter" (up and down continuously) from about 1100-1900rpm until I either come to a complete stop or go over 35-38mph to where I think the gear is engaged from the higher speed.
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So Im going to post a series of graphs of boost compared to rpms. I also did fueling and wastegate. Im having an issue with alot of boost flutter and sluggishness
Idle lambda is at -1.3
Partial lambda is at 13.5
Graph one showing specified and actual boost compared to rpm
Got rid of the crappy autozone special sunpro boost gauge and installed the newsouth that bill shipped me.
Only getting -10 vac at idle
Spiking and holding around 24-25 psi and then it barely drops at all but it holds at 24psi for a while which is kind of scary....
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I have a 99 V6 original owner with 177,000 miles. The car has all the usual work done for its age and miles with one cam tensioner and associate seals, gaskets, water pump, etc.... Getting some burn oil smell and believe the other tensioner is starting to leak but it's not bad. Replacement of the cracked AC coil was difficult...
Lately when the car is in higher gears, light load, and RMPs around 1,400 to 1,800, the car starts to flutter and the rmps jump up and down a couple of hundred and you feel the car lurch a bit. It's not harsh. Feels like a miss but you don't feel much engine jump or knock. Under hard acceleration, the RMPs are smooth and no lurching.
When I back off down to 1,400 or 1,500 and accelerate easy, the problem returns. Sometimes I feel it up at 3,000 but not as pronounced. The car is not throwing codes.
All ignition components are fresh in the last year with wires, pugs, etc... I still need to get this car to 250K...
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So I bought my first diesel last night and I'm in LOVE!!! It's an 06 F-250 with 6.0 (obviously). It's bulletproofed, rebuilt FICM, EGR deleted, and 4 inch exhaust IIRC. Previous owner had an issue with the turbo and replaced it. New turbo was DOA so he rebuilt it (sort of) and added a precision turbo (again IIRC) back housing (I think) to it. It has an SCT tuner as well and I have it set on the custom economy tune. Is this normal? Is there something I need to be doing about this?
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I've recently gone through and replaced all 8 of my '06 6.0's glow plugs as the check engine light has successively come on (I first did #3 about a year ago, then #5 seven months ago, #1 and #7 two months ago, and #2, #4, #6, #8 about two weeks, did all 4 on the drive side even the code was only for #6). A light came up for #1 again today, so I'm wondering would this be symptoms of failed glow plug control module? Also, can a failed module cause the glow plugs to fail prematurely? Haven't had a chance to ohm the plug yet.
The truck has also has been hard to start when cold and had a pretty bad engine flutter the past 8 months when cold at medium range rpms in the upper gears (1500-2000 rpms in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear and accelerating like a grandma). I don't know if it could be glow plug related, or a bigger issue (I did the EGR/Oil cooler myself about a year ago as well and things ran good until the winter hit). If I plugged the truck in over night over the winter, the flutter was not nearly as bad, but now it's summer and it's still not liking the cold take offs.
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I went to a friend's house uphill without switching gears. I stayed on drive the whole time. RPM did not exceed 4000. It went a little over 3000 while driving 40 mph. I didn't floor the gas pedal. I'd say the hill going up was pretty steep. I didn't realize how steep it was. Any way what gear should I switch to when I go downhill? I drive a 99 Passat 1.8t.....
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Do the dsg Transsmissions have something built in, when you go down hill the rpm shoots at 3k'ish rpm. It's like when you down shift if you were driving stick. Soon as I went flat road went back to normal. Is this normal??
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So my 4motion downshifts going downhill while braking...it's annoying as hell! My DSG used to do the same thing but being a faster tranny it was actually NOT annoying... Is there a way to reflash the tranny software? Maybe with an older code because my 06 didn't do this but my 08 does...
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Typically after driving for 5 minutes or so my temp gauge is in the middle at 200f. After about 15 min of moderate 35-45 mph driving it went down a notch below the 200 mark after it had reached 200f. I've noticed this happen a few times recently. I did notice that it happens while coasting downhill. I guess i'll be taking it it to my mechanic to take a look.
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In late 2011, I took my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T Wolfsburg (automatic) to get a 50k mile service. When I got it back, I realized that the car had problems shifting up to the next gear especially on straightaways and downhill. Usually on a downhill, one would not have to step on the gas and the car would shift into the next gear staying at a low RPM and saving somewhat on fuel.
However, on downhills I find the tachometer being stuck around 2500k RPM and it sounds like its struggling to shift. This leads me to switch to tiptronic (correct term?) to shift into the next gear and then let the car roll. This also resulted in more fuel consumption. When I took it back to VW explaining this they said there was no problem or they could not experience it. Hopefully, there is a solution or explanation before the "transmission is shot" result.
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My 2006 Ram 2500 w/Auto Trans leaks ATF when parked with the front end downhill. On the level its okay. Looking under the vehicle, it appears to be leaking where the dipstick tube enters the case at the front of the transmission. The tube is held to the case by a single bolt and apparently there are other bolts higher up that I can't easily see. I'd like to remove the dipstick tube and replace the gasket or whatever seal that seems to have failed.
What seals the tube at the trans case? Gasket? O-ring? Silicon glue?
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I recently bought a 2006 Ranger with supposedly 110000 miles... I don't think I made a good deal... because I found the stabilizer end link in terrible shape which seems suspicious for this mileage in my personal opinion!? But this isn't the reason I am posting today... I have a serious breaking issue and I couldn't find explanation yet.
My ABS Light is on. When I slowly brake at low speed and when the brake is almost completely depressed... I hear a low humming sound, and the brake pedal seems to momentarily drop back just slightly. This also happens when I'm going down hill and breaking. For the most part, the car breaks, and it's only every 8th or 10th time braking that I experience this issue.
My guess is this is linked to the ABS... but I can't afford expensive service and need to resolve this on my own.
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I installed the pierburg revised DV yesterday because my old DV was shot, squealing and leaking boost. After installing it I noticed that when i'm under around 15 psi and i let it build up that I get this flutter I didnt have before. I assume its the wastegate but I haven't heard it prior to installing the new DV so my fear is that its the valve no circulating and its putting the unused psi back through the turbo (not good).
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My 2007 ES-350 has 151K miles on it. Took it to a dealer until 120K and then found a really good mechanic that works on it now. It has been a great car but recently started having front end issues.
I was getting a bad vibration at 55 plus mph. That was a fiasco to get fixed. These are all the thing in order I had to replace to fix the vibration/shimmy over a 6 month period.
New Tires
Two new control arms
CV joints
Front left axle
Finally have the vibration/shimmy fixed. However, I started noticing a different problem some months back but was hard to diagnose with all the front end issues. Now that those are fixed there is a random flutter or shake that comes and goes depending on speed, if I'm going uphill or accelerating during a turn. It only happens when my foot is on the accelerator. It's often more pronounced at lower speeds. I asked them to check the struts and they said I had two that were leaking, but my mechanic thinks it might be the transmission. But I am only familiar with transmissions slipping in and out of gear. This is not the case. I have also noticed recently that it is coming more frequent and will soon be a consistent problem.
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2007 Chevy Suburban, 65K milesLet me start by saying I took this into to the dealer and they found nothing!
When I accelerate, I get a "flutter" in the engine. The best description of this flutter is that the RPMs go down about 200 or 300. I think it feels like it is sluggish when it accelerates. It is most obvious during the 35 - 60 MPH range, but you also see it when cruising at 70 MPH.
I tried adding some fuel treatment and ran some 93 octane through it to see if it was the fuel injectors, with no change in the behavior. No error messages or engine light is on. Regular oil changes and services (60K service, every 3K miles for oil change). Driving behavior has changed since I bought a Prius 3 months ago. It used to be driven 40 miles / day (+ long trips) and now is driven about 40 miles / week (+ long trips).
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I have a 2001 4 cyl Camry with about 147K. I bought the car from the original owner a few weeks ago. The check engine light came on. The car idles very rough at low idle (e.g., while stopped with transmission in Drive). My mechanic changed out the EGR and another air flow valve that was apparently stuck open too much of the time, and also the engine idle air control valve. The check engine light is now off but I don't think it was related to the rough idle because that started before the check engine light. I have seen other forums that discuss the rough idle related to fuel dampener and also weak/broken motor mounts and haven't checked those out yet.
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I recently bought a used 05' prius, and discovered a flutter sound (sounds like uneven tire) while on a smooth road. It comes from the engine compartment. I has no clue what IT can be.
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Going through the drive thru tonight and I heard a weird noise coming from the engine area. Get home and pull into the garage and here a flutter sound when my clutch pedal was pressed down, let go of the pedal no noise. While driving the car around clutch pressure seems fine and no slippage of any kind.
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So I'm new to the vw world and my 337's engine started to flutter abnormally. So I searched up and down google and vwvortex to troubleshoot the problem. turns out i needed to change my dv so I bought a new one, replaced it how the old one was set up and my engine began to shake and seemed as if it was knocking. Forge DV 007...
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I have an 03 GTI 1.8t with the stock K03s turbo and i used to boost to 25 pounds. Had to put a new motor in and now i when i boost above 20 pounds i get turbo flutter and loose boost. I can boost anywhere up to 20 pounds and the turbo doesn't flutter at all.
I had a spring on my waste gate which i have taken off and it changed nothing. I tried a different diverter valve and it didn't change anything. I unplugged the MAF to see if the N75 or the there was a boost leak and extra air wasn't being monitored but still changed nothing. It has nothing to do with my RPM range just when i boost over 20 pounds. I am planning on doing a leak down test to make sure there isnt a boost leak....
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A few months back my 2007 Camry started having this vibration along with a humming/buzzing sound between the speeds of 40-70mph. I seriously thought it was an axle/hub/bearing issue because of the buzzing sound. But at the same time the brakes were wearing down and noticed the shaking of the rotors when braking so kind of figured it may just be that. Explained to the Toyota people and they said most likely new brake service will fix the issue and not an axle/bearing issue. So went ahead and had the brake service done for both front & rear but the vibration & sound is still there. Can't be the tires because just got new ones just last year. Balanced & alignment done and still doesn't solve the problem. Found a TSB, T-SB-0106-08: Steering Wheel Flutter/Body Vibration at highway speeds (approximately 65-75mph).
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