Passat (B6) :: 2006 - New Tires And Rims / Vibrations Under Acceleration
Jul 6, 2013
Not long ago I fitted after-market rims to my 2006 Passat 2.0 FSI HighLine, I changed from 215/55/16 to 235/45/17 with Falken ZE912 tires, all new. The center hub of the Passat is 57.1(as far as my knowledge goes) and the wheel hub seem to be 66.6, the shop who installed my rims inserted a 57.1 to 67.1 poly-carbon hub rings which needed some force to fit into the wheel, the vibrations did not stop. All 4 wheel&tires were balances 2 times on one machine then a third time on a different machine just to be sure, still the same. I didn't preform a front alignment yet as i didn't believe it's needed, although right now ill try anything...
Anyway i then measured the rim hub diameter which seems to be 66.6. I bought a set of 57.1 to 66.6 poly-carbon rings, they also needed a bit of force to fit in the wheel, still there is no improvement and the car vibrate under acceleration. I would like to add at this point that i had no vibrations what so ever with the old rims and tires even though the tires were quite worn. I am thinking maybe i need the 57.1 to 66.1 size? Or perhaps i should use aluminum rings instead of plastic?
Is a size difference of 0.5 can make that much of a difference? I know an aluminum ring wont fit unless its the perfect size, and plastic are a bit more elastic meaning like in my case, they can fit in a smaller rim with a bit of force. Should I aim for a ring that fit perfectly without the need of applying force? Can it be that a 66.6 ring, fitted in a 66.1 rim is not eliminating the vibrations just because its off by a 0.5 mm and needed a bit of force getting inside?? I though that as long as the ring fits inside the wheel it will work but obviously its not..
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I purchased a used 2003 Echo last week. The all season tires are on 15 inch rims. I would like to buy snow tires for this car. The question is - snow tires on 15 in rims or snow tires on 14 in rims? I understand that 15 inch rims was an option selected on the original purchase. Without this option, the car would have had 14 inch rims.
View 14 Replies
I just got new rotiform BLQ rims and nexen tires. I have the hub rings and the setup was balanced and aligned (double checked).
Before this I had 3 bent TSW rims and got a pretty bad shake in the wheel around 65-70 mph. Before or after that speed everything is smooth now.
Why would this shake still occur.
View 13 Replies
I Just did a little work on my 2013, lowering springs, BBS rims and Kuhmo tires....
I now get a Check Tires warning every-time at start up.... Clearly it has to do w/ the lack of tire pressure monitors...
Can this error be whipped/cleared? OR do I need to get TPM's? OR do I live w/ it?
View 8 Replies
I bought a gs 350 AWD about 3 weeks ago and I love it. But one thing I have been noticing is often but not every time from 0-20. I feel vibrations and almost like a skipping/jumping of the tires/car, its very soft. Is this normal?. I still have a dealer warranty of 30 days left. But its kind of far so I wanted to see what it was before I drove 2 hours to have them check it out. what this could be?
View 14 Replies
I bought a set of new tires for my 2000 astro van and 1994 Saturn SL2 ::edit:: two summers ago. I bought a "full warranty" with the tires which includes checking the air pressure and free rotation. It seems every time I take the either vehicle back for a tire rotation there is a problem which is not covered by the warranty. For example I was told that each vehicle now has a rim/wheel which is slightly out of round with the implication that this negates any warranty on the tire.
I looked at the tire on my van as the tech spun it around while dismounted as you would a bicycle tire and sure enough the tire "wobbled" a tiny bit when viewed straight on at the treads - like a spoked bike tire would if it needed "truing". I was given a speech about "driving to hot" with steel rims and alloy rims were better as they tolerate heat better, also they mentioned the weight of tools in my van but I pointed out that any two of their hefty employees weighed much more than anything I ever carried in my van. The implication again is that this could negate the tire warranty.
I have driven since the 1960's and this is the first time I have ever had a problem with rims - even through minor accidents. The most I have done with these wheels is to bump them on a curb in a parking lot occasionally.
View 12 Replies
My wife's 2001 Chrysler Concorde can't seem to keep the air in the tires due to leaky rims. Mechanics say they are pitted and that's the best they can do. They have used rim sealant. Can I just use tire tubes until we get rid of this thing?
View 5 Replies
The OEM M+S tires on their 18" wheels have been removed and replaced with 17" rims on which winter tires are mounted.Should I place the stored tires in garbage bags or anything?
View 15 Replies
I have a Ford F150, 2003. I replaced the switch above the master brake cylinder just a few months ago soon after I bought the truck. I put 17" rims and new tires on my truck and now my cruise control works intermittently. It worked fine before then.
Can there be a connection between the intermittent failure of the Cruise and the larger rims and tires? I know my speedometer is off by about 4 MPH at 55 but I expected that.
View 4 Replies
I have a stock 2012 F250 6.7 Diesel. I was looking at getting new 18 or 20 inch rims for it and was wondering what the largest tire I could fit on those without rubbing on the truck would be. I know there are lots of topics on this but I could not find anything that applied to me. Most topics were on stock wheels.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2007 King Ranch F250 that had 18" rims on it. I just put a new set of 2008 KR 20" tires & rims on my truck and now the ABS light is on. Does increasing the tire/rim size mess with the ABS? If so how can I remedy this?
View 1 Replies
My 1998 Ford Expedition XLT with V8 5.4L engine has been having issues for about six months. It first started off with a strong gasoline and burnt rubber smell coming from the front of the car within a few minutes of starting the engine. Later, the whole car began vibrating and would intensely shudder every once in a while when idling. The car doesn't accelerate well from a standstill. The RPM will climb up to 3000-4000 while going from 0 MPH to 10 MPH, then it will lurch forward a bit and it pick up a little more speed. It struggles again around 15 MPH until it hit 20 MPH when it will lurch again and pick up normal acceleration. Once I try to go 40 MPH or more, the whole will start shuddering loudly and still struggles with maintaining speed. I have not attempted to drive over 50 MPH.
The best acceleration I can get is when I take 30-45 seconds to slowly press the gas pedal and work my way up to the speed I want.I was also following my father in another car while he drove the Expedition and on the highway, I saw sparks come out from the back of the Expedition's undercarriage when it climbed up an overpass. When driving over roads that aren't smooth, or when I accelerate, there is a sound from the back of the car like jangling chains or metal rods. It still makes the sound while the gas pedal isn't pressed or the gear is in neutral, so I think there is something, but have not seen anything underneath that could jangle around. While looking underneath, I saw that that some areas looked rusty, but not cracked. There is also a black piece under the engine that looked like it was made of plastic. It looked wet and oily and had a 2-3 inch opening in the center. I feel that there was supposed to be some sort of cover there.I now only drive it when it's unavoidable, usually once a week or less, and usually distances of 5 miles or less.I think the problem is with the use of fuel in the engine (fuel gauge fluctuates all the time, especially while driving on hills).
View 10 Replies
Do these 2006 f150 rims will fit on a 2011 f150 (17" rims). I got a new 2011 f150 but have steel wheels and looking to upgrade for cheap and there seems to be a lot more rims for earlier f150s .....
View 2 Replies
I bought a set of stop tech rotors drilled and slotted. After having them on for about 5k miles I'm getting vibrations when I'm slowing down so I'm guessing they are warped already. Any better crossed drilled rotor for a decent price that won't end up like the stop tech rotors.
View 9 Replies
I recently I had the cv boots replaced on my 2006 VW Passat 2.0. Since then the front vibrates upon acceleration. I have taken the car to a different mechanic than the one who did the cv boots and he says there may be a broken motor mount. I am skeptical about this diagnosis but now am completely stumped.
View 3 Replies
I have real vibrations when braking. What could be the cause? I think its a warped rotor. Also.. What are your opinions on cross drilled rotors. I hear they are good with disapating heat but i heard they wear down break pads quickly.
View 5 Replies
I have had my B7 for about 6 Months now and love the car except that the car sounds worse than my MK4 and the B6 that it replaced. I have solved most of the rattles and queaks and cracks but as soon as I fix them a week later I have 5 new ones. I have attempted to fix them using different sizes of felt pads after a few trips to the dealer and the fix kits did not work.
View 17 Replies
Noticing rattles, squeaks and/or buzzing vibrations?
I have a rattle from the rear driver's side, a vibration from the passenger-side dashboard and a squeak in or near the front passenger seat. I feel like I'm losing my mind!
View 24 Replies
Today while driving I heard a pop and than my car got extremely loud with increased vibrations. The noise is not terribly loud at idle but extremely loud while accelerating. I also noticed at idle it seems that nothing is blowing out the exhaust tips
My question is, if the flex pipe is covered under the extended emissions warranty and if is not covered by the warranty would a catless dp fix my problem?
View 9 Replies
So yesterday afternoon I did my driving thing. First stop I made I put it in reverse to pull out of the inverted parking ramp and had to apply gas to do so. And just got a nasty vibration coming out of the front end. A few times during my drive I would find an open lot to test reverse under load and get the exact same thing. I also noticed between 55-65 I would get slight vibration on the highways (Could just be balance since I'm on new tires). Well, I was thinking maybe a CV issue since reverse under load is where you typically feel that first, so I jacked her up this morning and cranked on the drive lines. Nothing seemed loose or sloppy and just got the usual clanking noise in the auto tranny when switching directions.
View 6 Replies
On rapid acceleration from standing start-- RC- F does not have a smooth transition. Tires jump and shake for half a second before car has even acceleration. Even with traction control turned off this happens. WHAT IS THAT ALL ABOUT ????
View 14 Replies
