I have a co-worker that is having trouble with his 06 passat. He explained that the clutch pedal has no resistance and is on the floor. The dealer he took it to is saying he needs a new clutch and pressure plate claiming that the "pedal doesn't have pressure on it is because the clutch discs won't engage" which sounds backwards if you ask me. Anyway, what could this be? Where could we start tracking this down?
View 13 RepliesLast night I was driving home and decided to show off at a light. I punched it pretty hard, but it wasn't anything outrageous.. anyway, as soon as I shifted to second, my clutch pedal gave out and dropped to the floor without resistance. I coasted it to a gas station, luckily.. When I lifted my foot the pedal rose back slowly. I tried pumping the pedal, didn't work. I looked for leaks, but none were found. I turned it off, put it in first and tried starting it, and it turned over and jumped/jerked forward, a lot like it did right when I shifted into second and it went out. So I'm assuming that its not the entire clutch cause it wouldn't have engaged the engine. It's not a leak. pumping it didn't work so it's can't be a pressure issue.. what is going on? is it my master cylinder, or maybe my slave?
View 7 RepliesJust went to leave my apartment and I get at the first traffic light and put it into neutral. Light turns green and I try to put it into first and it won't let me... In fact I cannot shift into any gear while the car is started. Put the flashers on and I am stumped. There was also more resistance in the clutch pedal as soon as this happened.
I turned the car off and tried wiggling it into any gear. For some reason while the car is off I can put it into any gear. So I had to put the car in first gear and start it and limp it home. I had to rev the engine to about 2,800 - 3,000 RPMS in order to get the car to bite and take off. Shifting into any other gear while driving was a hassle and it felt like there was a lot of resistance.
Just did some quick Vwvortex recon and some people are saying that it is a broken pressure plate? Pressure plate welds itself to the clutch? Or possibly a throwout bearing? Also what Transmission is in a 2003 Passat 1.8T Engine code AWM.
My clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
So last evening, I went to start my car and the clutch pedal went straight to the floor with no resistance. Car started and was extremely hard to get into every gear. Felt like the only thing pushing the clutch pedal back up was the spring underneath the pedal itself. Clutch pedal was 100% just the day before. Got the clutch line bled (vacuum bleeder) and it worked fine again.
Any clue as to what could caused this overnight?
Its a AWP 1.8t jetta with ASR.. I believe I came across something about a revision in the hydraulic line but I'm not sure.
Since I have gotten my Sentra 2003 I have had issues with it. This past year my thermostat went about 6 weeks ago. I noticed that when my car would idle the engine would rev. Over the weekend I drove on the highway for 2 hours. When I started slowing the speed don I noticed that I could press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor without any resistance. It came back up. I rolled into the toll plaza and stopped to pay the toll at which point I could shift the shifter into a gear but the car would not catch. No movement. I think my clutch mechanism needs to be fully replaced as the car has 115000 miles with the original still intact. IS that most likely the case and what am I looking at for the cost?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Saturn SL2, with a manual transmission. The clutch pedal recently gave up -- it goes to the floor with no resistance, and I can't shift. I understand that this car has a hydraulic clutch, and that the hydraulic system has failed. My mechanic says the whole transmission system should be replaced, (though he hasn't been able to look at the car 'cause it's stuck in my driveway!) Before I donate the car to charity, could the problem be anything simpler? Or is it a straight forward diagnosis?
View 11 RepliesI have a 5-speed transmission pickup (’04 Ford Ranger EDGE SuperCab). Clutch pedal feels "normal", No resistance when shifting gears. Will go into gear with ease, except for 2nd gear (grinding noise), must push clutch to the floor and still grinds; but only 2nd gear. In 1st gear, my truck will slowly creep forward as if unable to engage and not having any kind of pulling power. Even when shifting to 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, it barely maxes out at 30MPH (top speed unless vehicle is on a slope or slight decline then I can get up to and over 40MPH. Checked brake fluid level, it’s ok. The fluid’s at max. Clutch is relatively new (April 2014), with only about 13,000 miles on it, if that. It must be cylinder issue. Is there any way to tell whether it's the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Volkswagen passat glx and last week I jumped in and hit the clutch and it fell straight to the floor with no resistance and i barely touched it.... What this means and if i can fix it myself instead of taking it to the dealership ?
View 4 RepliesI bought a 2010 Elantra Blue in November. It has 1200 miles on it now, but as early as the 2nd week or so I became aware that there is occasionally resistance shifting into 2nd gear despite the clutch being fully depressed. It can also make a slight "crunching" noise after passing through the neutral position and fully into 2nd (though this sound is distinct from grinding, it's not the same as if you were grinding the gears). I've tried a million times to narrow down the cause (i.e. cold weather, low RPM shifting, high RPM shifting, slow shifting, fast shifting, gentle shifting, strong shifting) but every time I think I got it, and have corrected it, it happens again anyways.
View 13 RepliesLast weekend my 95 F350 developed an issue where it feels like something in the transmission is dragging in reverse and it moves forward in neutral. This happened suddenly. One minute it was working fine and the next it was acting up. I found some info that leads me to believe that it might be the coast clutch solenoid causing the problem. Today I tested the resistance of the coast clutch solenoid through the PCM connector. I used pin 55 and pin 37 to test it. The resistance is supposed to be between 20 and 30. I got 0. My meter read the same as putting the leads together.
Am I correct in thinking that I need a new solenoid pack or at least a coast clutch solenoid?
I was waiting for my son to come out of his work for an hour with the car on. I got distracted reading and messing around on my phone, and since the heater and lights were off, I had no incentive to turn the car off since it was perfectly quiet (the gas motor only kicked on once to keep the battery charged). Then, I can't remember if I turned the car off or left it on while I took a nap for an hour (he was a total of two hours late getting out of work).
At any rate, when he finally came out, I don't remember if I needed to turn the car on, but I do remember that as I pushed the brake down, put it in reverse, and began to back out, I was moving kind of fast and pushing the brake down didn't slow my motion at all. Also, it felt like there was not much resistance in the pedal. I stood on the brake and there was a noise and a jolt as I came to a stop. I really thought I had stopped because I hit something, that's how violent the stop was. But my son walked around the car and found I had not. No dash warning lights came on. I pushed the park button, powered the car off and on, then put it in drive and coasted forward / carefully tested the brakes. All was good.
I put it in reverse and used the brakes without anything seeming out of the ordinary. Then we drove 16 miles home with no issues. Until this incident I have never had a single brake-related issue apart from grabby brakes when it is raining.
This is what I have learned:
When I stood on the brakes, that is the only time the hydraulic system was in play.
Rusty brake components are pretty grabby.
Actuators are expensive and no service center wants to replace them at 92K miles.
Brake pedal goes to floor with no resistance first time I start in am. Rest of day all normal. Started when cold weather came. Fluid ok, no leaks seen.
View 3 RepliesFirst thing in the morning 2 things happen with my car.
1)When I press the brake the first time after turning it on the pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance. The brakes work, the pads move, but there's no resistance in the pedal.
2)Usually within first 15 minutes of driving there's a gap in braking. There's resistance in the peddle but as the car gets near to stopping there's a... whump where the car acts as though there was a gap in the rotors. It brakes smoothly til near the end then suddenly seems to release and then half a second later it bites again and the car stops.
I've had the pads and rotors checked and they found nothing.
My B5's clutch started not returning by itself when the really cold weather started. When it gets warmer it starts to spring back up. I called the dealership and the initial cost of looking at it takes me somewhat aback. I've already spent quite a bit on it last year. Reading some of the threads on other car models I've seen mention of clutch master/slave and fluids.
View 10 RepliesI'm not very mechanical when it comes to cars. I have never had any clutch issue with my car. I arrived to work yesterday fine. When I started to leave it was incredibly hard to get into reverse and I had to force shifting after I left and the clutch had also lost all resistance and I could easily push it all the way to the ground. What could be a cause of the clutch always working perfect including the last time you drove it, and then 8 hours later you start up and it has done a 180. The fluid level is fine. I would presume if my clutch had went I have have slowly noticed it going.
View 1 RepliesJust bought a 2009 Accent 5 speed I have 2500 miles on it .The clutch engages when the pedal is right at the top. Is there an adjustment on this vehicle I would prefer it to engage about mid stroke.
View 9 Replies2013 tdi 6mt. I am noticing that my clutch clicks when the pedal is depressed. it does not happen when I first start driving in the morning, but it seems that once the cabin is warmed slightly it starts then clicks each and every time. It is annoying and it appears to be related to the different temps outside vs the cabin. I did not notice it during summer or early fall but it is cold here now.
View 24 RepliesI have had everything related to the clutch changed, and I even had a dealership bleed the clutch line. The problem is the clutch pedal is soft and will sometimes work good and sometimes won't. If I prop the pedal to the floor for a few hours, it works fine for the day. what gives?
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 Elantra has multi spark (quad) electrodes? I have a hesitation on acceleration problem. Also feel resistance when pressing the gas pedal. I am going to change the plugs and wires. Just wondering if the type of plugs may contribute to the problem.
View 9 RepliesI was driving my 98 Tahoe yesterday making a visit to my sister. pulled the truck into the drive-way, put the gear selector in park, stepped on the parking brake (a habit I've had for years) and YIKES! the peddle moved down with no resistance!
my parking brake light stayed on even after I released the parking brake peddle, which didn't spring back, but I pulled it back. light stayed on when I started the truck although I think the brake never engaged in the first place.
I drove the truck and didn't notice any drag at all. after driving a few miles I stopped the truck and felt the wheels for excessive heat but didn't experience that. my guess is the cable broke or came off and didn't engage the parking brake in the first place. sound correct?