Passat (B6) :: 2006 - CEL Just Came Up / Cold Start Misfire
May 26, 2009
Bought a 2006 (later production) with 25,000 miles over the weekend. Couldn't pass up the price and the warranty (1 year left + CPO). Picked up the car Saturday at noon..... had to drive to DC for business and the CEL came on when I turned on the car this morning. I researched at lunch that it could be a cold start misfire but I am already pretty heated about this. When I get home tonight I am going to plug it in to my OBDII scanner and see what I can pull. If it is something bad.... I am giving it back to the dealership.
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Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
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I get a cold start ignition miss on cyl #2, then goes away (with a little revving), car then runs 100%. No problems during hot re-start. 2005 1.8T AWM. I replaced all four plugs (NGK OEM), all four coils (OEM latest rev), Coolant temp sensor (temp gauge was flaky). No other codes other than Cyl#2 miss and Random Cyl miss. Could I have a leaking (fuel dribbles out) injector on Cyl #2, causing a too-rich misfire when the car is cold started??
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2001 V6 Passat with 125k miles throwing a P0430 code.
Having trouble on cold starts, takes about 10 minutes to finally get it to turn over. When it does the idle is extremely rough. For the first 1/4 mile the car bucks, stutters, and misfires. After that it runs fine and starts fine when already warm. I am noticing slightly decreased gas mileage but nothing major.
Valve cover gaskets were replaced 2 months ago, but were leaking oil for at least a year before I could afford to have them replaced. I am still noticing some oil leakage, however not as much as before. I have had both O2 sensors replaced twice in the past 5 years. Timing belt was replaced at 98k. What might be causing the starting issues?
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Cold start issues that my 2006 2.0T Passat is having. A few weeks ago, during a stretch of cold weather (10-20F), my Passat would sputter when I tried starting it up. It would either start and immediately shut off, would attempt to turn over, and generally on the 3rd attempt would turn over and run fine. I was only having this issue in the morning, and it would start fine when I would leave work (9 hour shifts).
I got my battery tested, and it proved to be failing. Replaced it. A few days later cylinder 4 started to misfire. I replaced all spark plugs and coil packs (85k on the car). During this service discovered that my oil had gotten some moisture in it and have off-white residue, flushed oil, replaced with new filter. A few days go by and I get code P2181 (cooling system performance). I cleared this out earlier today and it hasn't come back (50 miles later).
Are things just starting to go at the same time, or might there be another underlying issue? I have plans to flush the tranny and do the timing belt/coolant/water pump in the next month.
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I have about 140,000 miles on my car, a 2006 Toyota Prius that misfires at idle when cold, and for the last 10,000 miles the engine has been using between 1 and 2 quarts of castrol synthetic 5w30 oil between the 5,000 mile oil changes. My check engine light naturally stays on constantly now and the engine also appears to misfire on acceleration also.
For the first 60,000 miles I had the oil changed at various places every 3,000 miles using nonsynthetic oil that was recommended in the car manual. Since then I have been getting the oil changed at the dealer where I bought it new and they switched to the synthetic oil, so I asked the service department, why the misfire? They said the new type spark plugs are very sensitive to oil burned in the firing chamber, causing the misfire. They told me to check the oil often which I do and the engine has never been more than a quart low.
Is there a spark plug I can use that is not as sensitive to the oil, or should I be looking for a junk yard engine or is it cheaper to have my engine taken apart and repaired. Will it damage the engine further to keep running it, there does not appear to be any smoke coming from the tailpipe.
From new I got mpg in the 40's now I am getting 33 to 34 mpg.
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Couple months ago I noticed that my car was experiencing rough idle, stuttering exhaust note during cold start. RPM is very stable!
Forward 4-5 months to last week, starting to notice vibration and it seems like the situation has gotten worse. The car returns to normal after 1 minute or so depending on how long it has been sitting there for. For example, If I park there for 30 minutes and try to start the car, I can feel a little vibration for up to 10 seconds. If it was parked for overnight, then the problem lasts up to one minute and then clears out. Now it's throwing a P0302 error which is cylinder 2 misfiring.
It's really like magic, the car would idle pretty rough and suddenly clears out.
I put in 4 brand new ignition coils and plugs, all OEM stuff and still hasn't worked.
This problems started during the winter time and I can clearly notice it's gotten worse and finally last week it threw the misfiring code.
I feel like something is failing or building up slowly. My car is a 2009 GTI TSI which has the same engine as the MK6 GTI.
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The last couple of times that I've started my W12 after sitting over night or longer I've noticed a misfire for 10-20 seconds and then it cleans up. Today the engine icon illuminated and after returning home I ran a VAG-COM scan which revealed these DTC's. There are 7 found faults at address 11.
My question is this- What exactly is causing this misfire issue? I'm assuming there is a faulty piece under the hood begging for attention but I don't know which item it is.
Everything else seems to be performing as it should but I see a few other faults showing up. Are any of those faults anything that needs looking into?
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.6
Data version: 20121223
Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton
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My 2010 gti has a p30030 misfire cylinder 3 only on cold starts. Swapped plugs and coil packs, still only on 3. Took a look inside every cylinder and found that there was some oil in the cylinder only cylinder 3. So much blow by that it kind of collected in the cylinder? Carbon cleaning needed?
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Ok after finding out I had a bad battery @ Toyota shop they also say the scan is reading an exhaust leak ( I could hear that one ) they also say there is a misfire on cold starts should I worry and what could it be or is it a misread from the other two ?
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Tonite on the drive home it was about 10 F and once my car was up to temp, I put my foot into it, I felt the car hesitate a bit, the CEL flashed a few times and went off. Could the cold temp cause that or is it more likely a bad coil?
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My moms has a 2010 Elantra with 30,000kms on the clock, and we have noticed since new when the vehicle is started cold in the morning it seems to run rough for about 30-60 seconds then stabilizes.
It's almost like it has a slight misfire, or slight fuel flooded from sitting overnight. Now if course we have taken it to the dealership twice for this issue and dropped it off overnight for a cold start, and both times they cannot re-produce the problem.......surprise.
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I have a 2009 VW GTI 6spd (42k miles) that has been misfiring at idle for about a month now. I can feel the engine shaking and see the CEL flashing at 900 RPM and eventually an EPC light comes on and makes the car run very sluggish. The EPC light turns off if the i turn the car off and back on. The car runs fine and without any misfires after start up which has me stumpted as to what it could be.
I've taken it to San Tan VW in Gilbert, AZ 3 times.
1st time they said it needed a 40k mile service to correct the misfire which included oil change, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, fuel injector clearner and a tire rotation They said spark plugs was causing the misifre so i replaced the plugs but the misfire was still there.
2nd time they said the injectors have carbon build up and recommended to run 2-3 bottles of fuel injector cleaner + octane booster per tank for about 2 tanks and that will fix the issue. That didnt work either.
3rd visit they came to the conclusion that it had massive amounts of carbon and needed a "walnut blast". They recommended to look else where for cheaper labor rates on the blast.
Also, need to understand why the car only misfires at 900 RPM if there is carbon deposits at all times.
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1991 Buick Regal, 3800 V6
Having a rough idle on a cold start. After some research and closer inspection of the vehicle, I'm quite certain I have at least one leaking injector that is flooding a cylinder and causing the car to misfire on a cold start. I'm also not at the gas mileage I should be at.
So I'm wondering, is fuel injector replacement as straightforward of a job as it looks? Any major issues I could run into in doing a replacement?
I'm planning on replacing all six injectors (I can get them for $50 each buying online with a discount code), but given that the vehicle is so old am I better off just replacing the faulty ones? I'm assuming pulling the spark plugs and seeing which cylinder is wet will tell me which I need to replace.
And one more question: Is there a way to depressurize the fuel system when I park the car for the night, thus preventing fuel (or most of it) from leaking into the engine until I get this fixed? I've read that just unscrewing the gas cap can depressurize the system.
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I have a '06 Passat 3.6. I had the intake and valve cover off the other day and when I put it back together it started missing bad. The code it is throwing is a P0300/ random/multiple engine cylinder misfire. What is wrong?
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Yesterday my car had a rough start (lasted all of 5 seconds) and it threw the check engine light on. Now other symptoms. It was a rough start, almost like a misfire then it idle fined, and drove my 60 mi commute home without issue. I had fine acceleration, gas mileage idle etc.
I got home and turned it off for 10 min and it then started normally and ran fine again. I'm thinking it was just a random miss that threw on the light, but I'll take it to Advance to get the code later today.
I replaced the plugs about a year ago with cheap-o plugs so it may be time for a replacement again. I thought maybe an o2 sensor but there wasn't a drop in mpg, at least anything noticeable.
And its been a few days since I've gotten gas so I'm doubting just a gas cap issue... The CEL did NOT flash, only solid the whole time.
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I have an 06 with the 2.0T that is making a rumbling type noise when you give it gas and also when you let off the gas. From what I can tell it only does it when you first push the gas pedal and stops if you are at a slow cruise and then of course does it when you let off the gas. The noise stops all together when the car warms up ( about 5 or 10 minutes) and has only started this over the past week since it's gotten cooler here. Noise seems to be coming from the drivers side but to be honest i have not had the hood to investigate yet so I can't be certain. Other than the noise the car runs and drives fine. Car just turned 101,000 miles so it makes sense that i'm having issues.
Downpipe was replaced about a year and a half ago
Cam shafts, high pressure pump and etc replaced April of 2011
Intake flapper was replaced in May
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This noise started a few days ago. Only happens when the car has sat overnight, and only for about a minute or so. This is a 2005 1.8T with about 116K miles, timing belt done at 108K, AC compressor replaced in June. Oil changed every 5k with Mobil 1 0W40 - All filters and spark plugs replaced at 105K. Car is in Florida, temperatures are about 78-85F in the morning.
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Car is at the stealership right now 74k miles (CPO until 75k). Having issues with cold starts, weather has been getting into the 40's, and when coming out of work in the ramp the car has a very hard time starting (usually taking 3 times to fully turn over). However, in the morning coming out of my heated garage the car starts right up no problems whatsoever.
There are zero codes being thrown, zero lights on the dash. Brought the car in for diagnosis and the dealer has had it now for 2 days - still "unsure of the issue" but they have proposed that it is either a fuel pump (covered by CPO) or Carbon-Build up.
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The rattle only lasts for a second or two. Only warning light recently was airbag control module, addressed by Dealer. Also noticed recently, while doing some "spirited" driving, there was a deep-bass thump sound at the end of each gear change.
I've done forum searches for start-up rattle and found issues with timing chain/belt, in relation to the tensioner bolt, mentioned in reference to an earlier design(?). I was unable to find anything related to the B7/NMS.
No idea if it's a V6 issue, DSG issue or general VW issue. NMS V6? NMS DSG?
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OK, so I recently purchased this car. When I turn the AC on, it literally takes 5-10 minutes for the ac to turn cold. Just the other day, I turned it on and nothing happen. The heat or the AC didn't kick on. Nothing was coming from the vents. What could be going on?
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