Passat (B6) :: 2006 / 2.0t - Boost Loss At Higher RPM
Mar 14, 2011
Car: 2006 Passat 2.0t 6mt - 81k miles. Has lived a grocery-getter life with an occasional romp on the back roads on the off chance the wife and kids aren't with me.
Symptom: Total loss of power (boost?) at at around 3-5k rpm and almost no power to accelerate (10-15sec to get one more mph). Service Engine light has come on twice, but clears with time or removal of negavive battery terminal. At low RPM range power is good, but suspect minor power loss. I'm only partly suspect on that last statement since I only drive it once a week. Idle seems normal, engine sounds normal at idle. Last week I did notice a barely audible whistle when boost is engaged. I have no access to a Vag-Com accept at the dealer.
The car let me down last weekend when I was smoking a jerk in a BMW that wouldn't let me get on the interstate. If it is the PCV and DV, where I can get one? Also, I'm not a tuner. I want OEM performance.
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so there is no visible signs of a boost leak and my boost gauge shows normal vacuum at idle indicating its not a vacuum leak, yet in the higher rpms im loosing boost.
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I just installed a boost gauge and drove the car a little and this is the readings I get. It starts off with 20 inHg and to normal street driving it goes up to 0 and down. However when I pushed it a little, the maximum reading I got was 11-13PSI (High RMP-almost redline). I am a noob in this boost department so Is this readings really accurate or is there something wrong? Recently i had some transmission work done. And since then the gas pedal feels heavier. I was convinced that it is from the new bushings but I feel like this is boost related. Because at 4000 RPM sometimes It suddenly looses the boost (Kick).
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I lost boost, went from being chipped at 16psi to 7-8 with a check engine code and a high pitch noise. Now is the secondary air pump connected to the turbo in any way. It just happened and I'm working on getting the code read. Just curious if my pump is just bad, what im figuring.
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I have been looking around for some boost information. I have come across a few threads that have boost graphs, but the images are no longer available. I have tried to get a hold of some of the posters, but no luck.
I only recently hooked up a boost gauge and have been monitoring my boost more. I had a slight feeling before I hooked it up that I was losing a little boost at higher rpms. Between 4500-5000 my boost drops from 18 to 15 and then from 5000-6000 it drops to about 10. I know it's sometimes normal for boost to drop at top end, but I'm not quite certain it's supposed to be that much.
I installed the Spulen Boost Pipe Kit hoping it may make some type of difference, but it's the same. What it might be? I have checked all my pipes as best as possible, but couldn't find anything.
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I noticed this sound on Thursday, I couldn't replicate the issue at first, but it's getting worse. I can now replicate it almost any time I get into boost in a higher gear (4th, 5th mainly). Partial throttle, usually starts around 3,000 RPMs. Can't quite tell where it's coming from, but it's a bit concerning. I've got 16,000 miles on it with no mods (DSG gti). It'll be going to the dealer next week for sure, but what it could be? Kind of afraid to be driving it, but my dealer is closed until Monday and I wont be able to get over there until the afternoon.
Sound starts at about 6 seconds into the video (it's quiet, but you can hear it well if your volume is up), turbo starts spooling up at about 4 seconds. The car has a slight hesitation when the noise happens, but it's not violent. No CEL.
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Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
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Just today I noticed my car boosting to around 1.2bar instead of the usual 1.4bar. The car is boosting to around 1.2 then dropping off to around a bar.
The only thing that I did was install a forge splitter. I presumed that the splitter valve was the issue and promptly put my 007p back on but still had the same issue.
During the process of adjusting the splitter valve I got limp mode several times. I much prefer the 007p and will be keeping that and selling the splitter. What may have happened?
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2002 ranger edge 3.0 5spd. Truck idles perfect, but when you get rolling and higer rpms feels like the engine is missing. loos of power and shakes. I replaced the usual, plugs and wire's, seemed to work for a bit but came back. I cannot get any info on the scanner and have checked all the fuses. I am thinking coil pack but don't understand why it idles perfect and only misses under acceleration. No check engine light on.
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I have a serious issue with my 2004 F250 6.0. Pulling a trailer something under the hood sounded like an explosion and lost power and boost. The truck started blowing black smoke from the tail pipe. I could see no psychical damage to anything under the hood. There was absolutely no power but managed to cripple home. What happen.
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2006 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax.
When I park it with the front end elevated even just slightly higher than the rear the fuel system loses pressure and I have to pump it up using the manual pump under the hood. This usually happens after 15 - 20 minutes of park time. When it is parked flat it usually will last hours or more, and if I park it with the rear elevated over the front then it doesn't seem to have a time frame. in other words it does not lose pressure at all.
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I've got a 2002 Excursion which has been giving me a little trouble lately. I've got a DP tuner, 4" exhaust, afe stage 2, and gauges (boost, trans temp, EGT). I've been running these for about a year now without any truck problems until recently
So I noticed over the past couple weeks it has gradually been taking longer for the engine to start. Started off by just having to turn the engine over a few more times. Now it has turned into having to turning over the engine for a few seconds, then turning it to off, then trying again. It always starts on the second attempt to start my truck and sometimes really hard where it blows out a little black smoke.
Not sure if this is a correlation to the problem above or not, but I've also been losing boost pressure, and I'm not sure when this started since I haven't been on the highway for a while. I noticed this because this weekend I drove on the highway and saw that I was blowing some black smoke every time I accelerated which has never been the case.
So I check my boost gauge and see that I'm sitting at like 3-5psi when I used to be at around 10psi+. I also noticed when I accelerated the boost pressure would increase like normal but then quickly drop once I stopped accelerating which is unlike anything I've seen before in my truck. I don't seem to notice a huge difference power or throttle response, but then again 95% of the time I'm driving under 40 mph to get to work. So this problem could have started the same time as the starting problem, but I can't say definitively.
What this problem could be, what to check or test?
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I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3, 6 position tune, and exhaust as far as mods (on truck when bought). Last couple of weeks I get no power while on the throttle, foot on the gas and the whole truck shakes at higher speeds - 40mph and above. At first it wouldn't go above 60 or so, would hit the gas and Rpms would just stop not be able to generate any further power. Changed the IPR, ICP, and CPS.
I still get the high/low range ICP codes, P1280, P1281. First night the IPR was changed I got it up to 90mph and thought it was all solved but got a little shake right at the top and I let off the gas. Next day back to square one and has seemed to get progressively worse, almost wasn't able to make it up a hill by my house not even going 20mph, but it's like intermittent. I have a scan tool, here is at idle and at around 60mph ....
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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I have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
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I've been experiencing this problem since I had the car but it gets me around fine and has been getting 30mpg; hasnt bothered me all that much but i'd really like to get the problem solved... A few months ago I hooked up a boost gauge and she would not boost beyond 2psi. Since then I've changed the air filter, spark plugs and found a wire that was un-plugged causing the engine light to stay on. Hooked up a scanner and no more codes.. But the car still doesnt pull the way I'd think it should and with a stop watch hits 60 in no less than 9 seconds (shouldn't it be around 8?). The WG actuator rod is free, but I disconnected that electronic control solonoid, drove the car hard and there was no change in performance or driveability! One thing I havent done is change the fuel filter so I'm thinking maybe it's in a limp mode and awaiting the fuel filter to be changed? But then wouldnt a code come on if this is the case?
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My wife hit a deer going 60MPH 3 hours from home. Go back up and pick up the car, it's down on power, I feel it surging on and off boost, hard to drive smooth. Roughly a half hour later I get a CEL. Don't have the code handy, but Boost limit Maximum exceeded. My local VW dealer says its a normal wear and tear item so Allstate will not cover it. The car had the radiator, radiator support, condenser, hood, bumper, grill, passenger fender, timing belt cover and timing belt replaced.
Allstate says not covered, like a flat tire, once I leave the shop, its like a flat tire on the road, nothing to do with the repair. BTW I had it repaired at an Allstate recommended PRO shop. I get it back tonight after 8 weeks of fooling around. Will need to check the actuator, hopefully it's bad. The turbo itself is good, boost fine, no smoke.
This is an 04 Passat 1.8T. I have had 14 cars with turbos, still have four and have never had a turbo go bad, full synthetic oil every 3K and 60 second cool down in hot weather.
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Is there any difference in boost between drive and manually shifting with a tiptronic? How about using sport mode?
I saw a video of a guy testing hist mkv with apr stage two and he reported that he was not getting full boost when manually shifting his dsg.
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Just got the car not to long ago and its not making any boost right now. the CEL is on and its throwing a code for a MAF sensor. what would be your first step to resolving this problem.
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Over the past couple of days, my wife and I have been noticing that our B6 (2.0 Auto/Tip) is shifting at around 4000 rpms. I'll probably be taking it in to have the dealer look into it but wanted to see if the community has experienced anything similar to the issue at hand.
It shifts (Appox):
1st into 2nd - 3200 rpms
2nd into 3rd - 3800 - 4200 rpms
3rd into 4th - 3500 rpms
4th into 5th - 3000 rpms
5th into 6th - 2500 rpms
Notes:
* the appox amounts above are at regular driving acceleration.
* while in Drive - "D" mode
* used to shift into all gears between 2500-2900 rpms
* doesn't shift nearly as smooth as in the past
Is it OK to slip into "Sport" from "Drive" while Driving? How about slipping into Tiptronic while using "D" or "S"?
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I just installed a gt2871 turbo and I'm experiencing fuel dump at higher rpms. It's just like it dies at the top. My buddy said I probably need new injectors.
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