Passat (B6) :: 2006 2.0T - Clunking / Jerking Intermittently When Braking
Oct 19, 2010
My 06 2.0t has 73k on it. but i noticed at around 60k that when I brake, almost to the point where I'm stopping (like at a light) the car jerks or grabs...kinda like the tranny is catching or the brakes are grabbing. Twice I've asked vw to check and twice they've said they can't find anything wrong.
Warranty runs out at 75k, so I think I'm going to take it to AAMCO to have them check the tranny and see what they say.
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I did F&R brakes (Adam's rotors and hawk & akebono ceramic pads) on my B6 4mo about a month ago. Ever since changing the brakes, there is a clunking noise, when going over bumps, coming from the right side, possible right front. The sound consistently goes away when I press on the brakes. It's a metal on metal clunk that you can feel and hear. Not terribly loud, but pretty annoying. What could be the cause?
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Every time I brake I hear a clunking noise, it happens right before I stop completely. For some reason it does not make the noise when it has recently rained or the car is wet, the noise is coming from the front drivers side. I had a mechanic check out my suspension, and he said everything was fine. I am thinking it could be a bushing, but am not sure.
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2007 Sonata 3.3. Crunching, clunking noise at low speeds, braking or accelerating away from stop lights. Noise disappears at speeds over 25-30 mph. Noise can be replicated by rocking car forward and backward while in park, with engine turned off. Rocking side to side does not reproduce noise. Bouncing car suspension at all four corners does not reproduce noise. Hood open, rocking forward and backwards, noise seems to be coming from behind engine, and with hand on engine motion can be felt. I'm thinking engine mount, but how can I get a good look at it to check?
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On my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
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I've been out of town a bunch and my car has been sitting out at the airport. I picked it up last friday, drove it home. Today on my way to work the car started jerking - like the engine was trying to rev slightly. When I put it in park, and listened, the engine was jerking or misfiring maybe. The exhaust was a bit louder than normal as well and i could hear the stress in it. I also smelt a strange burning smell. I've called and had roadside assistance pick it up and take it to the dealer.
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When shifting gears, mainly in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd while the air conditioner is on I'm experiencing jerking / clunking. When I shift it's not a smooth movement and produces a thump. The only way to really avoid this is by letting the clutch out very very slowly. It only happens when the A/C is turned on. Shifting is perfect when the A/C is off.
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I have a 2004 Saturn LW with 6 cylinders. For the past few months, but only about one or twice per month, my car has been clunking jerkily when changing gears. There is no pattern, except that it happens at slower speeds, say mostly under 40 MPH both forward and in reverse, sometimes when I put the car into gear and sometimes when it changes automatically. Yes, you have guessed it, whenever I take it in, it acts just fine, and no one can get it to duplicate the bahavior.
Oh, the dashboard the the light indicating necessary service comes on whenever the gears clunk and the car jerks, but when it behaves, no indicator light comes on.
I have about 114,000 miles on the car. do I just need new transmission fluid, or is my transmission getting shot? Am I stripping gears? do I really need to wait until the mechanic hears it? Everything could be utterly destroyed by then, right?
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My Dodge van makes a jerking/clunking knock under the vehicle when it comes to almost a complete stop. Feel strong inside the vehicle. If I break hard or gently that jerking/clunking knock will not happen- gotta hit and miss when I tried to control it.I am thinking of front brake which I must replace, it's pulsation occasionally....
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I have a 2007 Chevy Impala with the 3.9L. It has just over 110,000 miles on it. I've owned the car for about 5.5 years. Back in 2012, I took the car to a local transmission shop. Here's the reason: Let's say the car has sat overnight. I start it up (regardless of the season) and go to the stop sign at the end of my street. When I go to accelerate, there will be a very short lapse and the car will seem to jerk into gear then go. This is a very intermittent problem and does not happen every day. The car will do this for a bit when accelerating from a dead stop and then the problem goes away.
The trans shop said the transmission needed to be rebuilt. Guy told me they've seen problems with the Impala transmissions and, if I remember correctly, that the parts used inside aren't the best. Looking for a second opinion, I took the car to a Chevy dealer. The dealer was not able to experience the jerking. I had the trans service done (80,000 miles at the time). The problem persists to this day and has not, noticeably gotten worse. I decided to take the car to another dealer last week. Same thing: the dealer could not create the jerking issue. Again, this issue is very intermittent.
I am not sure what to think or do at this point. I called a couple shops around town and have gotten the following advice/information:
1) Bring it in and we can see if we can recreate it, but can't guarantee it.
2) The transmission needs to be rebuilt (this without even looking at the car).
3) Wait for the problem to get worse so that it CAN be diagnosed properly.
One guy said he didn't trust the dealer mechanics, that they "just drive around the block once." I am not sure what to do?
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Anyway I have a friend with a Mazda Navaho. 1991, 5spd transmission
It jerks intermittently, and sometimes quite severely. Myself, and 4 other ASE mechanics, and 1 "old ford guru" are stumped. We know we have ruled out the clutch for sure....
We think It started when my friend put a clutch in it. He did not have the flywheel turned . When we looked at it, we were all convinced this was the issue....drive test and dumping the clutch in and out at cruising speeds could replicate the issue. However, he had just bought the truck, and it needed a clutch, however the jerking we think was happening before, but we didn't know as we couldn't drive it till we put the clutch in it.
So we re-did the clutch...had flywheel machined, and got a warranty replacement clutch just in case, and put it back together.
Same issues. so we checked, and tested.
1. Fuel pressure test- passed, no issues
2. Checked fuel regulator for leaks - none
3. Checked for and found no vacuum leaks-none
4. Swept, and actually replaced (3 times) the TPS -is working fine
5. Replaced the MAF - Thought we had it, as we disconnected the MAF and jerking seemed to go away instantly...however few days later jerking returned, and driving with MAF unplugged still jerking.
6. Replaced Ignition Module, checked coils, plugs etc...actually replaced plugs and wires as well
7. Disconnected Transfor case plug to make sure it wasn't the issue as well.
I really don't know what else to check. The motor runs fine, the trans shifts smoothly...the clutch is new and was done correctly. I run a small auto shop, and we have access to Mitchells, All-Data, and Identifix....all were no dice. It seems you try and research jerking and hesitation all the hits come up for Auto trans and Torque converter lockout issues. This truck is a 5 spd .....
I have owned many Aerostars back in the day (loved em, same 4.0) and I have never seen this
The jerking is random and intermittent...symptoms would be similar to a small child flicking a light switch on and off rapidly when it does it. power, no power, power, no power, and rapidly...it feels like someone herky jerking on the clutch but we have ruled that out....its definitely electrical.
Also, and naturally, even though it is Obd I we have checked and there are no pending nor stored codes....PCM thinks everything is hunky dory. No backfiring, no smoke, no misfires....runs like new except this perplexing issue.
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The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
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Brought mine to the dealership they can't find the knocking noise. I asked the technician to Test drove it but still can't find the problem. Technician on the passenger side and we test drove it. He was able to hear it, but can't confirm if its coming from the pads or rotors. Its pretty anoying when driving at night when the roads are quiet. You can hear it even with windows close.
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Yesterday I had the rear rotors turned and installed some akebono brake pads. I drove it around and it sounded fine. Today my wife drove it to school and called me telling me whenever she came to a stop she would hear clunking noise in the back of the car. I drove it and its true.
I took off the tires again and all 4 bolts are tight on each side. I didn't know the torque specs so I tightened them enough yesterday. I applied the proper synthetic grease on the slide pins, the back of the pads and where the pads touch the caliper bracket.
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I am noticing a sort of clunk or knocking noise from under the hood when I hit the brakes. I thought it might be the pads, but it comes from under the hood .It only makes the sound on the first touch of the brake, once you have your foot on the pedal it stops the noise. It does this every time on the first application of the pedal. Is this sound normal? I don't recall hearing it when I test drove the car, maybe it's been there all along and I am just now making note of it.
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Clunking happening when accelerating and braking, but is not noticeable if I shift without too much kick between 1st and 2nd. Clunking is heard right under my feet and sounds like its dead center in the car. Some slight metal scraping sound can be heard like a bolt is loose (none found).
Replaced: Tie rod assembly, both axles, doggone mount, struts, strut mounts, strut bearings, sway bar bushings.
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If I am moving in reverse and tap the brake I hear a clunk from the rear of the car. If I continue in reverse and then again apply the brake then no clunk. If I drive forward and stop, no clunk. If I then shift into reverse again and apply brake I get the clunk again. Had the struts/shocks replaced but no change.
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My Phaeton has recently developed a single clunking sound that occurs at low speed, either when braking, or when turning the steering wheel towards the right about 90. The clunk can be felt at the drivers footwell area too.
All four upper control arm bushings were replaced a few months ago and the antiroll bar links are pretty new too.
I have not identified exactly where the noise is coming from, but by placing my hand on all suspension components it seems that the clunk is most felt at the front left rear lower arm. Hence I am wondering if the bushing or the whole arm may need replacement.
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I have been getting a clunking sound coming from the rear of the car while braking. it was louder and more frequent before a few things were done by the dealership in an attempt to fix it, however i still have the noise fairly often during normal driving. This is three months into the issue and i still don't have a solution from the dealer or VW. Things that have been done so far by dealership:
1. replaced left and right side rear caliper brackets
2. replaced rear brake pads
3. surfaced rear rotors
All of the above were recommended by vw, according to the dealership. there are notes on the last invoice that the noise was described as "pad slap." everyone involved is acting as if this is a great unsolvable mystery, which seems ridiculous on a new car. i first came to the dealer with the problem with 512 miles on the car.
Just got the car back this past thursday from the dealearship, 2 and 3 from the list above were completed, and they were "unable to replicate noise" during a test drive. after driving around over the weekend i've confirmed that the noise is still present (though less loud and less frequent), and was able to capture it on video--after the turn signal turns off: [URL] ....
i'm not the most knowledgable or mechanically inclined when it comes to cars, so i don't really know what to think of this. google searches turn up that many people have issues with clunking sounds from floating calipers, some say that it's normal, other that it's not. this is my first new car, first car with floating calipers, first VW, so i feel i'm coming at this pretty blind.
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I have a 2011 Dodge Challenger SE/Rallye Redline with 76k miles
All of a sudden while I was out shopping, it started creaking and clunking somewhat loudly on the front driver's side when coming to a stop. I could feel a weird subtle clunk in the brake pedal as the sound happened. There was a more gentle clunk in the gas pedal as I took off from a full stop. As I made my way home, the sound progressively got louder and louder. When I was close to home, the sound got so horrible to the point that it began clunking on every other bump and began creaking and clunking VERY LOUDLY while steering and turning.
The last work I had done was replacing my front tires, front rotors, brake pads and drivers side calipers in December. At first I thought it was a caliper issue, but as the sound got worse and seemed to be more underneath the front end more than the wheel area, I sort of ruled it out. What could it possibly be?
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So my truck is making a kind of a clunk noise in the trans area does it between 30-50mph does it more often when cruise control is on but still does it from time to time when it's off. What it could be?
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