Passat (B6) :: 2005 - Persistent Extended Crank After Sitting Several Hours Or Only A Few Minutes
Mar 28, 2008
I have a 2005 Passat Wagon, V6, 2.8L. I purchased this car used about a year and a half ago with 10,000 mi. It now has 32,000. I have done all scheduled maintenance. About 8 mo ago I started noticing a problem when starting the car. It seems to take a while for it to "turn-over" while starting it up. We've taken it to two different VW dealerships to try and solve the problem. About 4 mo ago, one of the dealerships replaced the ignition coil. They were able to read a memory chip of some sort to identify the problem I was having. Since this repair however, the problem has begun again. There is no consistency. Hot or cold temp. After sitting several hours or only a few minutes. The problem happens about one out of every five starts.
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The battery is good and there is not voltage to the solenoid when cranking. I've used 2 sets of keys and replaced the PAT sensor ring hoping it was something anti-theft related.
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What could cause this? i changed the crank sensor last weekend. put a brand new battery. cause the last one was 7 years old.
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I hear a squeaking noise when I start my car. It is mostly in the mornings. Sometimes other parts of the day also. I believe it is on cold start because I usually hear it when the car has been sitting for a few hours.
My first thought was that it may be the belt so I popped the hood and looked at it. The belt seemed nice and tight and there were no cracks or extensive wear on it.
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Car is hard to start when sitting about 9 hours or longer to a day without being started up it is hard to crank over, I am at a loss to what is causing it, the car has a new battery, new distributor rotor w/wires and cap, my car is an 1993 Nissan stanza ALTIMA GXE w/automatic seat-belts, the car is fully loaded Except for sun roof or heated seats, I do have 242360+ miles on the car. I kept the car well maintained from Nissan, and they can't find anything wrong with it. is this the case of just old age on the cars behalf? what I do notice is there's a slight drop in voltage reading on battery the night before to the next day, can a starter be my problem??
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ACURA 2000 TL. When I start the car recently, it cranks 10 or 15 times and then starts. When I leave the key in the ignition ON position for a few seconds it starts right away. When I shut off and try to start right away it takes time to start. What is the problem ! Someone told me fuel pump/main relay need to be changed. I did and the problem remains the same. Another one told me weak battery and I changed battery the problem remains the same. After reading some blogs, I tend to believe it could be something to do with retaining fuel pressure. How do I diagnose whether it is the fuel pressure regulator or the fuel return valve or fuel pump? If it is the fuel return valve where is it located?
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My 1995 Buick Lesabre will intermittently drain the battery after sitting for about 12 hours. It is unpredictable. The battery was newly installed in December, 2010 and the alternator was tested at that time and about three weeks ago and proved to be recharging properly. This battery kill happens even when there is no visible sign of current usage, such as a dome light being left on. What I should look for in order to to find the source of the current drain?
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I have a 2007 3.3L Sonata.
The car has been sitting for around 8 hours. Wh en I start it, the idle moves up and down about 100rmps. When I drive off there is a slight hesitation until I have driven for about 10-15 minutes. The idle is nice and steady after the too.
If I use a fuel system cleaner, it appears the car is fine for awhile and then the issue comes back.
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I had left my car for about 30 hours without driving, which I've done before all winter with no issues. Went to start it up yesterday morning to head out and when the key FOB failed to open the door, I knew I was in trouble.
I unlocked the door manually, and put the key in to start it up and the Treg was completely dead and the key wouldn't release from the ignition. After a call to VW roadside assistance, and a jump start, it started right up and I dropped it off at the dealer for them to look at.
The service report says "diag and found low state of charge. charged battery and found passes tests. performed TSB 27-05-01 and cleaned ground point for battery. rechecked OK"
This is a V6 Touareg (there is a similar TSB I understand for V8s).
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I purchased my 2012 SE in October, and since that time, I've noticed that after it has sat for a few hours between starts (first thing in the morning, leaving work, etc.) it takes longer than other times for it to crank-over and start. At other times, it starts right away. I know that the fuel pump kicks in when you open the door initially, and perhaps I am trying to start it too soon. This is my first VW, so, before I worry that something needs to be checked out (due for the "courtesy check" anyway) I wanted to make sure this was not a common thing, or something I am doing wrong (didn't think I could mess up starting the thing...)
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My Corolla sometimes cranks longer than it should when starting. This happens if the car has been sitting for a few hours. Although it doesn't always happen.
It happens when the tank is full and empty. The weather has ranged from 100 down to 60 degrees. The car has 20k miles on it and has had regular dealer servicing. What's going on with it? Otherwise it runs fine
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2005 Ex with 6.0. It has been bulletproofed. But has had a long crank after sitting for over 5 hours. I was starting to think glowplugs but no codes, Then thinking FICM, nope voltage has always been good. After I run the truck for a few miles if I kill it. It would crank right up. No issues. Only happened after it sat for awhile. I knew it had to do with HPOP system since it took about 5 to 8 seconds to show over 500PSI.
The passenger side does not have a leak since the oil is to the top of ICP sensor. When I was going to remove it. So I took off the drivers side. I inspected the dummy plug. No issues there "they are the 12mm with teflon plugs" I inspected the stand pipe. No issues there either. I inspected the small test port on the top of the rail. No issues there either. So I decided to air test it. So I used my auto-ingenuity to close the IPR valve after I heard all the oil blow out.
Then after sitting with 120 psi of air for about 10 minutes. I hear a bubbling sound coming from the Drivers side Rail. It was a plug I have never seen mentioned here. It is at the back of the rail. I removed it and sure enough the oring is split in 2. I went to ford and picked up a new Oring it was like $4. It also looks like its a different material. I am still in the process of putting the truck back together so i have not started it back up. But I am pretty sure this was my problem.
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