Passat (B6) :: 2002 - Idles Roughly - Makes Grinding Noise When Backing
May 13, 2007
I have had this problem since day one. The idle seems to be very rough once you give it some gas and drive the car it runs smooth as silk. The dealer told me that is the wayit should be due to the narrow V6 with one head cylinder. I have had an 02 Passat V6 and I dont remember it having a rough idle.
My other issue is again since day one when I am moving very slow like when I am backing out of my drive way there is what I would describe as a grinding sound. It does it all the time forwards and back, all day not just the first thing in the morning. Again the dealer says it is normal.
I just had my first oil change about 2 weeks ago and was hoping these were just thing that would be addressed then but they dont seem to be better or worse always the same.
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Lately I have been having some trouble with 2002 Oldsmobile Alero v6. When the car is sitting in park I have noticed that the engine idles roughly, And when I try to drive it, the car hesitates on the acceleration every now and then. Also the emissions light (the orange one) will come on for awhile and then dissapear. At first I though it was dirty fuel injectors so I added some Fuel injector cleaner, but that has not fixed the problem. I was thinking the park plugs may need replacing?
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01 Passat v6 150K tiptronic. When cold, the tranny makes an occasional grinding noise however when at operating temp it runs fine with no slippage. Changed the fluid/filter and added lucas treatment. It worked a little but my mech said to warm up the car before driving. Might be the torque converter?
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I have a 2000 F150, 94k miles, manual transmission, 2WD
About 6 months ago a slight squeaking sound started when only backing up. Now its progressed to a sort of grinding metal on metal sound with regular driving as well as in reverse. I can hear it the most when its in gear and I take my foot off the gas. I changed the breaks, checked the wheel bearings, did a clutch test, and the u joints look fine. Something weird happened yesterday, while raining out, it didn't make a peep. My drive shaft and u joints have a layer of rust on them...could that be a cause of the noise, and it went away when wet?
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape, and today I noticed that while backing out of my driveway (downhill) as I pressed the brake pedal it made this grinding noise, but when I got out of the car I looked through the tires and the rotors and pads were fine. I did not get a chance to check the inner side of the rotor or pad yet. What else could this noise be if it's not the brakes? It only makes this noise when I press the brake pedal which is why I thought it was the brakes.
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I have a 2002 VW Passat that I cannot communicate with the ECU. I have the latest version of the Vagcom software downloaded. It has the factory radio installed and still will not communicate. The car runs, but runs rough. Anything else to check?
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I own a 2010 Seat Leon 1.4 TSI 125hp 6 speed manual with 20000km (same engine, transmission, electronics as a Golf - 1.4TSI 123hp or Audi A3 - 1.4TSI 125hp, in North America you can consider it a poor mans VW or Audi, i prefer Audi LOL).
Ever so often maybe once a month when the engine is cold (usually during cold weather and in the morning) the following happens:
I crank the engine and get a really rough idle that's about 300-500rpm... the engine struggles and then shuts off after about 5-10 seconds and while this is happening the CEL an EPC light are on. after the engine turns off by its self, the next time I start the engine it works perfectly.
I have taken the car to a certified VW workshop since its under warranty (4 years) several times and they have found no fault codes. The second time I took the car they flashed the ECU to the newest software. The other day (Fourth time) after the above happened again.. they hooked up the car to the diagnostics tool in front of me to prove there are no fault codes stored. I left the car for testing and they came up with nothing.
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My car just started making a grinding noise when accelerating. It does not make it while maintaining a constant speed or revving the engine in neutral. I never had this problem before and I am at a loss to explain it. Car is 1995 Camry for what that is worth.
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Fearing the worse here on my 2011 Prius Four, not IV. When I press the "on" A/C button I hear a grinding noise for about two seconds. Seems to be coming from a low area in engine.
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The dealership did my oil change. Afterward, the engine idled rough. I drove home 50 miles and called and they said they may have overfilled the engine oil. The dipstick level is about 3 inches over the fill mark. What damage could result and how to approach the dealer about it?
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I recently purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4 cyl. engine. The first 10 days I owned it it ran just fine. I then took a an hour drive to another city. After the first few stops there, as the temperature outside reached about 90, It started to sputter and idle very badly. After I got rolling it would would run fine. I decided to try to make it home. It ran fine at freeway speeds of about 70 mph. I had to stop once; it stalled out and would not start again. After waiting about ten minutes I tried again. It was still running rough, but I was able to get rolling and drove the rest of the way home without any problems until I was in town and had difficulty keeping it running at idle.
The next morning it ran fine again. A local mechanic changed the fuel filter, but the problem came back as soon as the temp neared 90 degrees. A mechanic friend who witnessed the problem said that it definitely sounded like a lack of fuel and not an electrical problem. Is there a way to troubleshoot without swapping parts? If the fuel pump is failing in warm weather, how is it possible that it runs fine at 70 mph, but not at idle? Engine temp gauge looks good. I did get one code after it died the first time (lean mixture, I think he said).
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I own a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2 with an automatic transmission. I also own a 1991 Fleetwood Cadillac with an automatic transmission. Each car has its own situation.
The ZX2 idles high (about 1000 RPM) and rumbles pretty roughly while idling. I was curious as to what the cause might be.
The Cadillac has a blown head gasket and I was wondering how expensive and what would go into fixing this myself or just how much it would run going through a dealer.
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It's a 05 Kia Rio. I've recently put a bit of work into it due to a few issues which were fuel related, namely replacing the fuel filter/pump. It also has brand new spark plugs. That solved the issue that originally put it on blocks for a few months and it ran fine for the past few weeks.
Today I went outside to drive to work and got the symptoms in the title. I know it's not a spark issue because it does start, and I used it on accessory to air up my tires this morning.
I'm just not sure where to go next. I've done a bit of searching and have found recommendations for checking the grounds and the distributor cap.
While running at rough idle, depressing the accelerator makes it die faster, rather than keeping it running. It rained last night and this morning. It's about 70 outside instead of the 80-90 it's been the last few weeks. No check engine light, but I've only tried to start it about 10 times.
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I bought a 1987 Chevy Celebrity for $700.00. Initially it ran fine after just a slight hesitation when the accelerator was first pressed. With a little more gas applied it smoothed out and ran well. Yesterday I took a drive to the library. On the way the engine stalled. After a minute or so I was able to restart the engine and proceeded to the library. On the way home the engine again stalled. I was able to restart the engine but it idled roughly and stalled as soon as the accelerator was pressed even slightly. I tried varying the amount of gas applied from very little to pressing the pedal to the floor to rocking the gas pedal to no avail. So; idles roughly, stalls when gas is applied.
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1950 cadillac - standard drums on all 4 corners.
I put new wheel cylinders on each drum, and replaced the drivers front hose, as it was clogged. The passenger side I left because it works and doesnt leak. I've cleaned all the brake surfaces, shoes and drums, and bled everything.
When I brake, and only when I brake, the front right makes a grinding noise and the car pulls to the right.
I tried tightening the star wheel today to bring the shoes inward in hopes that would equalize brake pressure up front, but when trying again today, I got that grinding sound still.
There is no scoring or gouges on the shoes, drum, and the inner and outer ball bearings seem fine - round chrome balls with no discoloration, no gouges on the spindles. Granted I don't drive this far at all, especially now that I have this grinding.
How can I really tell if its the ball bearings? It only makes the grind when I am on the brakes.
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Changed the spark plugs, but the engine still idles rough while in drive and stopped. It's fine in park or neutral. P0303 popped back on today while warming up the car. Changing plugs significantly improved the idle...but it still is rough.
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1993 Buick Regal 3.1l V6 Multiport injection
Problem: The care currently has a hard start, and a fluctuating idle. I bought the car a year and a half ago it still has low miles about 94,000. The care used to start fine but had a fluctuating idle in the range of 750 to 2500 rpm. My brother who is a mechanic and doesn’t live near, do all the gaskets when he visited. Then the idle fluctuation dropped to 750 to 1000rpm, when the car rpms fluctuate there is a whirring sound I can hear from the cab, like a pump or pull system. On occasion there is a vibration as well but it is inconstant and irregular. Fuel pressure seems to fluctuate as well. If the car will not start I give it a little gas and it will run fine after a minute or two, but then the idle starts to fluctuate.
No fuse issues I can tell and relays seem to be fine.Checked for lose wiring connections found, none. I have replaced:
- Hoses and gaskets
- Starter motor
- Battery
- Fuel Pressure regulator
- Fuel Filter
- Spark plugs and wires
- TPS
- Idle Air control Valve
- Crank shaft sensor
- PCV.
Right now I’m thinking it could be the fuel pump (a nightmare to change on this car), a fuel injector failing, and the ignition switch.
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Just purchased a used 2008 prius with 80,000 miles on it. Braking system makes slight grinding noises when getting below around 10mph. I know the brakes are different, so I'm not sure if this is normal or if it means my brake pads need replacing? Car didn't come with an owners manual .
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I have a 2003 f150 4X4. Whenever I go around a round about slowly, the truck sort of grind under the frame and shakes a little bit like I am in 4 wheel drive.
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I've got a new issue that is happening on the front end of my truck. Whenever I try turning my wheel while driving, I get this rubbing/grinding noise coming from the front of my truck. It only happens when the wheels are in motion. It seems to happen less when I'm driving at higher speeds, but I can notice it make the sound at any speed. I tried driving it slowly in an empty parking lot while turning and it's definitely making the sound every time the tires rotate.
I took it in for an alignment because this was happening every time I drove, whether it be driving straight or making a turn. Now that my alignment has been fixed, it no longer make this noise if I am driving in a straight line, so it only seems to happen when I'm turning. I had the mechanic check to see if they could reproduce the issue. The mechanic was able to hear what I hear, but when he put it on the lift at the shop, he was not able to reproduce the sound.
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My '06 Pt Cruiser A/C works fine @ speed, but idling and @ stop lights it blows moist warmish air and idles roughly.
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