Passat (B6) :: 2.0t - Engine Noise After Replacing Front O2 Sensor
May 20, 2013
I am currently hearing the engine noise. Recently I have replaced my front O2 sensor which I don't think would cause this ticking noise but I figure I should include that info. I already had my cams replaced due to a bad follower. I had my belts and water pump done at 80k I'm currently at 130k. I threw a coolant system code a few days ago, which is odd to me, my temp gauge stays at the same temp it's always shown.
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At least this is how I did it after a P0133 code.
The back ground on my truck (see sig) is that I am the second owner (my former neighbor was the first) and it has 293K miles on it at the time of this post. The truck is bone stock FWIW.
I searched the internet and couldn't find a good step by step replacement write up. The front oxygen sensor on the passenger side is hard to get to so here is what I did:
Jacked the truck up and placed jack stands under it. Removed the front passenger tire and the plastic wheel well liner.
Tools needed for this part are a 7/32 socket and a trim tool remover (for the plastic push in fittings).
There are 5 screws and 3 or 4 plastic push retainers (don't know actual term) to remove.
Because of the location of the sensor I had to remove the transmission dipstick tube. *If you do this have a pan or bucket under this area as you are going to lose fluid* the dipstick tube is held place by an 8mm bolt about the middle of the exhaust manifold. Unscrew it and with a little pressure the tube will pop up and out, and so will some fluid.
Wheel well liner out and dipstick tube pulled out of the way.
The connector where you will disconnect the old 02 sensor is tucked up behind the engine block and is kind of hard to get to. A little time and patience and you can get it separated.
From underneath the truck I cut the end off of the old 02 sensor (because the closed end of the wrench wouldn't fit over it) and used a 7/8 box wrench to unloosen the sensor a little at a time until I could get it out with my fingers.
I put the new 02 sensor in finger tight and then tightened it down with small turns of the 7/8 wrench until tight
The cord on the new sensor is longer than the factory one so once reconnected I used zip ties to keep the slack up and away from the hot parts.
New 02 sensor installed and dip stick tube back in place. Note the attachment approx 1/2 down the dipstick tube. It is the 8mm bolt I previously mentioned.
Wheel well back in place. Truck lowered back to the ground.
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2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
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I am gonna switch out my front turn signals from my 2006 Passat but I dont know how. Are there any screws or clips that I need to remove? Looking for Pics ....
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It looks like I am going to have to replace my front driver's side power window regulator soon - it is making a bad sound when I power the window down and also the window glass seems to be loose and clunking when I close the door with the window partially or all the way down. These may be two separate issues. I think the motor itself is fine.
In looking at replacement window regulators I see two options. The lower cost option ($50-70) is to just by the regulator cable/pulley/gear assembly.
Like this: [URL]
But I also see options to buy that assembly pre-installed on the metal door plate that it attaches to: [URL]
So, my question is, once I have the door apart and the glass out, is it relatively easy to install a new cable/pulley/gear regulator assembly, or would I be better off buying a pre-installed regulator on a new metal plate?
I know how to take the door apart as I have done this before to change out the door lock/latch module.
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I had the Timing belt, roller, tensioner, belts, etc replaced and I am getting this funny ticking noise after the engine tuns on. It seems to go away after the engine warms up but not all the time. I have the AWM engine and bought the kit from ECS tuning. My mechanic (who is excellent and beyond honest) thinks that I have sludge in the engine. The engine was super quiet before the whole kit was replaced so I doubt that all of a sudden the sludge, if present, would cause this. I have been meticulous with oil changes and always used the appropriate weight and type. Castol Syntec 502. My mechanic told me that the belts and everything looked in great shape at 89000 miles. I wonder if I should have bought OEM parts. Otherwise the car runs perfectly.
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My windshield washer warning light is stuck on. I think there is a good reason for it. My washer tank has been converted to a stand alone fuel cell filled with C16. Just looking for any ways to have the tank function properly. I assume the sensor, or float (if there is a float) went bad. Heard of people covering them in lacquer or something to repel moisture.
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I had a check engine light pop up and I went and got it checked out. Comes to be its a IAT sensor or bad connection with this sensor. I change the sensor and made sure the wires on it is all good. The question is, I still have the check engine light up, does the code need to be deleted? And what happens if the code gets deleted and problem is not fixed?
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I drive a 2001 Jetta with the 2.8 v6 with ~125k miles
So for a while my car was giving me a false read on my temperature so I replaced the sensor. I actually followed instructions from a thread on this site. [URL] ....
Now when I go to drive my car, it runs sluggish and misfires if I really give it some gas. CEL is on(however does not return a code when hooked to a computer), and flashes when gassed hard.
I've checked to make sure spark plug wires were reconnected correctly and securely. No leaking has occurred from the temp sensor. shift rod drive unit is reconnected correctly.
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I am doing some maintenance and trying to replace my EBP tube and sensor. I luckily have the dual alternator package, so getting the tube in and out has been a pain to say the least. I can't for the life of me get the tube back into place. As always, a 20 minute job is taking me 2 days.
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My 2000 2.5 V6 TDI Passat has just died.. was doing 60-70 and went to change gear and the engine cut out, tried to restart and its just cranking over and over. Did have a message on the display and the glow plug light on when i was coasting something about management but didn't get the whole message, wasn't on for long.
The recovery guy reckons it might be the crank sensor.
The cambelt should have loads of miles and time left before it goes.
I'd like to sort this myself or at least be sure of what the problem is before i take it anywhere, so what to check for?
There's fuel in the filter and it turns over fine (it could be my paranoia but maybe cranking a little fast)
i just changed a CV joint to fix one problem yesterday, this is the last thing i need!
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I have a 2009 RAV4 and it has only 40,000 miles. Three weeks ago, I took it to a local Toyota dealership for oil change and tire rotation. The service manager told me that it needs the drive belt to be replaced and the oil in the four-wheel drive system needs to be replaced. I accepted his recommendation and have the job done. After paid almost $700, I took the car back. The next week, the engine lost power and did not respond to the gas pedal for a few seconds while I was driving on the highway. This problem occurred on and off while I was driving.
In addition, the brake light was on after I had the car fully parked and the car key was out. I took it back to the dealership. After diagnosed, the service manager told me that the "brake switch" has gone bad and it caused the engine lost power because it has a "break safe system". After paid about $130 to replace the "brake switch", the problem of engine lost power and won't respond to the gas pedal was gone. The next week, however, the engine light was on and the warning light of four-wheel drive was on. I took the car back to the dealership again. After diagnosed, this time they said the O2 sensor has gone bad and it caused the engine light on and the four wheel warning sign on. I took the car back again. So I paid another $450 to have the O2 sensor replaced. Now the car seems to be running normal.
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8t(B5.5) and I need to change my engine coolant temperature sensor. I have search and found conflicting answers on the forums as far as it location and description. From what I can see it is located near the bottom right hand corner of the radiator(Driver Side). I have removed the sensor and I did see some antifreeze spill out. I examined the sensor and it is blue in color with a rounded top. I called my local auto zone and received a replacement part but it is green and looks a little different.
I understand that the blue one that I removed is no longer produced. My question is is this the right sensor and the right location? All the write ups I can find say that it is located in the back of the engine yet I cannot find one there. Also when I replaced the blue senor with the green one the fan on my car is spinning at high speed(the AC fan) and will not idle. I am wondering if the new sensor is faulty/ incorrect or if i simply replaced the wrong sensor.
Here is a link to the replacement part I used : [URL] .....
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I have a 96 Cadillac Deville Sedan. Last year, I had problems with the heat and A/C working intermittently. Then both crapped out. I went the summer without A/C...waiting for winter. Have gone all winter with no heat, which is not a huge problem, since I live in Florida. However, I'm planning on taking this car on a 1600 mile journey to Maine. So on Thursday, my bf installed a new HVAC fan motor. Or, yeah, whatever you call them. It worked and the car produced heat. I had a parade to go to Thursday night, so I drove the car there and it was fine. On my way home, the car was revving, like I was driving a lawn mower. Then, while I was still driving at a low speed, the mph went to 0. During the 10 mile drive home, which included interstate, the mph returned and the car acted normal. Then the mph went to 0 again. The speed sensor failure light came on, along with the check engine light.
I thought maybe while replacing the fan motor, the bf might have unhooked the speed sensor. This makes sense to me. But the bf checks and can't find anything obvious.
Today, when I first start driving the car, it again sounds like a lawnmower. The rmp is into the 3000 and 4000 range, while I am driving (approx) 15 mph. If I step on the gas, the car lurches forward, then returns to lawnmower status. The mph is showing 0. The instant mpg is also remaining at 0. The fuel range is showing numbers, but they are not correct, since there are 14 gals of gas in the car and the range is at like 85 miles and declining. I get around 20 mpg. So that's not an accurate range. After a few miles, the car stops over-revving and sounds normal. On the interstate entrance ramp, the mph started working, and worked for several minutes, then reverted back to 0.
So, to summarize. The check engine light is on all the time. The speed sensor failure light comes on in the beginning. The struggling lawnmower act lasts for the first few miles. Lurching if I step on the gas. Then, it might drive normally. The mph stays at 0. Every once in a while, the mph will start working, then stop again. What could have happened during this fan motor repair to have caused this? Or is this just a huge coincidence?
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I've been getting this error code recently ("Fuel Trim,Bank1 System too Lean"). I have a Scanguage, which let me get the error code, and I used it to reset the message - it came back about a week later. I took it to a local repair shop after the second time, but as I'd already cleared the message, he couldn't do anything. It came back about a week later, and this time I took the vehicle in as soon as the yellow light showed up (without connecting the Scanguage).
The mechanic said that he found both P0171 and P0172, and that the problem was a loose vacuum hose AND a failing Mass Airlow Sensor. They reattached the hose and cleaned the sensor, but said that the latter fix may not last - the light came back on two days later. I took it in again (this time, checking the codes, and found only P0171) and he said this confirms the problem with the sensor and he'll have to replace it ($280 for the part, plus labor, less a discount on the labor equivalent to the labor he put in to clean the sensor.)
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I cleaned my k&n air filter on my 02 passat 1.8 turbo let it dry oiled it very lightly, and 50 miles later I get a check engine light on, pulled the code 16486 and it says Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input. Cleared the code put a frame in until I can get it filter. Why that would throw me that code, k&n oil gumming up my sensor??
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My check engine light has been on for 3 days i get my appointment with VW and then today i start it up and it goes off. Also, having a problem with very loud squeaking coming from the front bottom left of the engine ?
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I took the car out for a little spin about 8 miles. We where about .5 of a mile from the house and there is a section where you have to stop on a little bit of a hill. I stalled the car due to the new Dm clutch then headed to the house and the car started to run like crap. I hooked up VAGCOM and had this code:
17748.P1340 camshaft position sensor-G40/ Engine speed sensor-G28: incorrect allocation(#1)
I swapped out the 2 cam position sensors and cleared the code and started the car and it still ran like crap. I just happen to have a new Cam position sensor(hall sensor) so I swapped it out in both cam positions one at a time and cleared the code and the car still runs like crap.
Is there a way to check(test) with vagcom to see if its one of the engine speed sensors?
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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My Axles started to make noises couple months ago While making Sharp turns. I bought some new axles for the front, but this will be my first time replacing CV Axles.
Any tips and or recommendations on what to do and not do, and tools to use? I watched a couple Youtube videos already. I plan on changing them out this weekend.
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Swapped out the front turn signal bulbs for LEDs? Looking for pics or vids showing the difference between LED and stock.
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