Sometimes, when I get on the gas rather hard, my acceleration is sort of stuttery and jerky. It's not a traction issue, and I just got Unitronic stage 1...but I was having this issue before that.
View 1 RepliesI notice that under normal acceleration, my cars transmission shifts very jerky. I understand this can happen if your driving stick but I have a TIP. Is there anyway smooth or eliminate the jerks?
View 2 RepliesIt's been over 100*F recently, and we just started running our AC on BLAST (Auto, 74*), and my perfect Prius has been giving me acceleration issues... When it's in PWR mode (100% of the time) and the AC is full blast, and I punch it, the car hesitates, jerks forwards, hesitates, jerks again, then eventually once it's over 15-20 mph it smooths out and goes.
Just to add to the chaos, for the first time ever in my life, I actually HEARD the fan from the vent for the battery. It was pushing air out after I parked the car. Never heard that before, ever! I just want my Prius to be as perfect as it's always been... BTW, I pretty much drive the heck outta that thing. I like how it goes around corners and the acceleration in PWR mode.
2010 Prius, 75,000 miles ....
Recently the car was stuttering under hard acceleration and battery voltage dropped, I have a batt gauge. Got harness replaced and symptoms are gone but this must be happening to others with or without symptoms.
Check your fuse box on top of the battery. The alternator harness wire turns silver after many years of use. Your battery volts will drop also and you can see it with a gauge. I changed this harness and symptoms went away. It's the thick gauge wire all the way to the left. This needs to be changed with a new alternator. Many people prob don't know their harness is causing high resistance affecting the quality of smoothness.
The hotter the car gets the worse it gets if you have this issue. More RPMS, is more electricity and more resistance. There is no CEL for this. The harness should be copper colored, if it turns silver it's old and needs to be swapped. If you drive low Rpms all the time you won't notice. But it's an R, who does this?
The harness is around $90 and car has to be in service mode to get to the alternator. This is my 2nd alternator and kept my original harness when replaced, bad idea.
It takes under 20 seconds to pop the hood and open the fuse box to see what color your harness cable is. I expect most to be silver not copper, but whether you have symptoms or not depends on severity.
I've got an issue on my Escape, and I'm at a dead end. '01 XLT V6 150K miles.
About a week ago, driving to work, it started stuttering or misfiring while accelerating up inclines. Cruising and idle were smooth with no issues. I found that if I let off the gas as it was stuttering, it would stop, and then I'd give it gas again, and it would be fine. It was pretty intermittent.
Opened the hood and the large vacuum hose that goes from the top of the intake down to the PCV, has an L boot that connects it to the intake. That boot was collapsed down on itself while the motor was running. It went back to normal when I shut it down. I felt the boot and it was very thin and worn out, so I replace the whole two piece hose, along with the PCV valve. The old PCV came out and was rattling, so I believe it was ok, but I installed a new one anyway.
Drove it after that and it still had the stutter. It was now also doing it just barely at idle. I'd hear the motor miss, and it would really start when I would give it gas. I thought it was still a vacuum issue, and that there were probably other bad hoses. I found two. There's a small hard plastic line that comes off the air intake hose from a T, and those lines go to the camshaft covers. The hard lines go to rubber boots on the cover, and the one in the back was in two pieces. Replaced it. No change.
The other line is a small rubber line that comes off a round component, (I still haven't found out exactly what this part is called), that is bolted to the drivers side shock mount, and has a couple soft lines coming off of it. One of the lines goes over the top of the motor and ties into a T right where that large PCV hose goes into the intake. The part is circled in red, and the arrows point to the hose in the attached pic.
I have a 1998 Ford Ranger. My problem is jerky application of acceleration. I note slack in the cable connecting the pedal to the engine throttle. Is there any way to adjust this cable length to remove the slack.
View 5 RepliesAfter a road trip (approximately) 80km both ways, I came back to my home area and filled up and got a car wash. Then I went home. About 2 hours after I noticed the car felt very jerky, and had no acceleration. Then big time sputtering. I turned off the car and waited for it to cool down. Once cool, it just kept on cranking. It started at one point and the engine light came on. And now it only cranks.
View 3 RepliesI get jerky acceleration at low RPM (around 1200). It feels as the engine cuts off fuel for a blink of an eye and it does that 1-3 times. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. It starts after cold engine warning light turns off.
Year 2000 .... Engine 1.3 vvti .... Automatic transmission .... 140k kms ....
Have an 04 Jetta GLS 1.8t manual. While accelerating at lower rpm and I'm kind of on the gas to get up and go it starts bogging out. Could almost describe it as a little jerky. Anything over 3000 rpm there's no issue. Doesn't matter what gear I'm in either.
View 15 RepliesBeen having an issue with my 01 Wolfsburg VW Jetta 1.8T.
Whenever I'm accelerating (most noticeable in lower gears), it seems like the turbo can't keep up. Used to sound like a nice clean consistent whooooosh spooling up, but now its more like brrrr......brrrrr......brrrrr.....
Don't know how else to describe it. Seems to start and stop frequently. Will try getting a video clip of this tomorrow.
2010 Dodge Grand Caravan. On the way to work I was trying to accelerate from about 40mph to 50 mph and my van started to jerk a few times and then the check engine light immediately turned on. I only had a few more miles to work and it was fine the rest of the way.
View 1 RepliesMy 2011 Golf R is tuned to Stage 2+ by Revo and has the following hardware modifications:
1. Miltek turbo-back exhaust
2. Larger Intercooler supplied by Revo
3. Autech (spelling??) HPFP
4. Revo intake system with a foam filter
Lately I have experienced the following problems:
1. Difficulty in starting (sometimes)
2. A kind of "flutter" on starting as engine revs settle to the idle level
3. A noticeable hesitation in taking off from stand-still
4. Jerky acceleration immediately after the car moves from stand-still
5. At any speed, a noticeable hesitation when throttle is applied
All the above issues have happened in normal driving. By that I mean NOT hard driving. I drive my car on DSG "manual" shift mode.
Unfortunately customer service from, both, Revo and the VW dealer in Dubai leaves a lot to be desired. What are the different possible causes of the above problems, I can make sure that Revo / VW go through the full list until the cause(s) are identified.
Symptoms: (162K miles, last tune up about 70K miles ago) rough idle, and poor acceleration. Occasionally, the car really jerks while accelerating. I read about new plugs/wires, and something called seafoam. I think the highway patrol would pull me over as a gross polluter, but that too seems worth a try. Various sensors and hoses, I'm frankly overwhelmed. Where to start?
Something I learned today: My car was made in 10/95. Apparently, I can scan for trouble codes?!? How and where? Is it OBD I or II or something else? Dumb question: I can't even get the interior engine shroud off. I found three clamps, but it still hangs up near the top. What am I missing?
My 2012 Prius Two did something odd today that it's never done before. Today, after leaving a meeting, I had two instances where accelerating from a complete stop was met with a delay followed by a jerky and sudden acceleration. This only happened twice out of the dozen-or-so complete stops I made. This only happened on my first couple of complete stops, then never did it again.
Here is some pertinent information:
- Silver Prius, no tint
- Car sat uncovered for about 2.5 hours
- Was 96 degrees outside, not a cloud for miles
- Turned the car on, opened the front two windows for hot air escape
- Turned the AC on to full
- Sat parked but car running for maybe 30 seconds before reversing out of parking spot
- Rolled up windows
- Battery fan was going strong
- No indicator lights came on to suggest an issue
- Happened on my first two complete stops at stop signs
- Never happened again
- Battery fan eventually simmered down
- Have 55,000 miles on the car
We have a 2002 Sante Fe with v6 and 270,000 km on it. Just had extreme loss of power and jerky acceleration from a stop. This has happened a few times in the past year and each time with a 1/4 tank of fuel? We pulled into a gas station, filled it up and away we go like nothing was wrong?
View 4 RepliesI fear my truck may be stuttering on acceleration.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge tonight and the fuel PSI at idle and under acceleration... barely moved. Stayed between 60-62PSI.
I'm thinking this isn't normal... shouldn't the PSI be reduced especially when I accelerate hard ?
I'm thinking the "delivery" fuel line... perhaps there is a bottle neck somewhere which is causing constant PSI at the fuel housing ?
I purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester 2.5X Premium (automatic transmission) in November 2011 with 4 miles on it. Since the get-go it has had issues, but we thought that some of them might work themselves out as we broke the car in (which we were religious about). At the first oil change, we told the dealership about the issues we were experiencing and got the expected "the computer doesn't say anything is wrong" and "we couldn't replicate the problems" excuses. We were told to bring it back if the problems continued. Well, they've gotten worse. Here are what we are experiencing:
- Erratic shifting. I commute from the mountains to the city every day, so I need power from the car. Sometimes, when I'm heading down a hill and I tap the gas slightly to give myself a little boost, the car will suddenly downshift, even though it was sitting at 2500 RPM and didn't need to get any extra power beyond more fuel. Going up the hill is worse, as if you are not actively accelerating (including if you are trying to maintain a constant speed), it will upshift on you and you lose all power, so it will need to downshift to make up for this. It does this constantly for the entire drive home. Everyone who has driven this car in the mountains has experienced this.
- Jerky transmission. When the car shifts, it is super harsh and tends to throw you forward or back. Even when on flat ground it shifts roughly.
- Sluggish acceleration. If I give the car any more gas than I usually do, it hesitates before going anywhere. One day I needed to get over on the highway fast and floored it - it took the car about 2 seconds to respond. Then, yesterday, we were turning on to a highway from a side road and I tried to accelerate (gas about 1/2 way to the floor) and it didn't respond at all for about 5 seconds and the "Check Engine" and the traction control lights started flashing at me. We were on a paved road with no gravel, water, ice, etc and the traction control light began flashing on the straight, not while we were turning. There are also days when it feels like there is an anchor tied to the car and it just doesn't want to give me any umph at all.
- Rough starts. This is the really weird one as there is no rhyme or reason as to when it happens. Some times it takes the car several revolutions to turn over. Oddly, it's never on the really cold (under 20 degrees F) days, but it has happened when it is ~35 degrees and a couple of times when I have started it in the middle of the day to grab lunch and it is ~65 degrees out.
- Running rough. This usually happens after a rough start, but can also happen at other times. It just idles very rough and won't calm down. These are the days I have the worst time with the shifting issues.
I had a 2001 Forester that threw a rod, which forced me to get this car. Everyone who has driven both agrees that the 2001 was quicker, easier to drive, and had more gumption than the 2012. It also had less problems even though I purchased it used in 2005 (until the whole rod-throwing thing, of course). I really want to love my 2012 Forester, but I am so upset that, for the first time in my life I have a new car, and it runs terribly.
I have a 1999 F250 SD V10 4x4. I recently had a transmission installed and the truck is running erratic. I have an engine miss (sometimes when idling, more so when in drive and foot on the brake). I say sometimes because there are times it will not miss and the engine runs smooth. The transmission shifts a little strange and sometimes hard.
I am getting a code reading that says my TPS is faulty, but I installed a new one a few months back.
The engine is running rough (jerky on acceleration) especially when driving. I was wondering if I should take it to a shop and have them flash the computer to reset it?
I also remove the AC compressor a while back (bad clutch). I installed an aftermarket pulley.
So lately I have noticed this shuttering/stuttering when driving. It doesn't happen at any specific time its sort of random. I didn't know if its because of the extreme cold weather we have been having but its been happening too much. But I have also noticed a pretty gross oil smell coming from the car as well. What it could be?
View 5 RepliesI have 22K miles on my '12 TDI Passat VW. Suddenly there is a "stuttering" from the transmission between 1st and 2nd gear. Why is this happening now? And what can be done about it? Happens first thing in the morning. My dealer says "it is a characteristic of the transmission and this is normal." Normal? Why did I travel 22K miles before this started?
View 4 RepliesI had my car flashed 2 months ago with the APR software and have been loving it. Recently, about 4 days ago, I had an oil change and tire rotation and everything was fine. Yesterday, however, something strange happened. In first and second gears, I had no problem, but once I was in third gear, once over 4.5 RPM, the car started to jerk as if were having a hiccup. I then shifted and let it go over 4.5 in fourth, and had the same problem. I turned the car off for about an hour, and went back to driving and the problem was still there. This time, however, after the first jerk in third gear, the check engine light came on. The light is still there as of today. I've got a 2006 2.0T with A/T.
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