Passat (B6) :: 07 - Pressure Regulating Valve Failure
May 22, 2009
Our 2007 Passat 2.0T had the 30K service and the fuel pressure sensor and pressure regulating valve (PCV valve) recalls done several months ago. Several weeks ago the check engine light came on so we took it in to the dealer yesterday. By the way, the car also felt subtly sluggish, had a slightly unstable idle and sometimes seemed to "stick" in gear on deceleration (ie, not shift down normally).
Here are all the DTC codes that were stored:
P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P2187, P2279, P3138, 02635
The service adviser said the problem was that the recall valves that VW sent them were no good (I think he said it was the -F valve) and that they now have an updated valve.
The new part number is 06F-129-101-K
By the way, our Passat is driven "conservatively," ie, no high boost levels or anything else that would stress the PCV valve.
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The warm air came back again while I had my A/C on, after only a month from taking care of a leak and adding refrigerant. Cold air came back again after parking the car for few hours and also a day after.
My tech told me that the refrigerant level is fine and the problem might be within the compressor regulating valve or the unit it self. He recommended replacing the compressor.
Had a compressor failure or had a this problem and it went away after replacing only the regulating valve.
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Going to attempt this repair myself to avoid paying the stealership. Previously drove an E46 bmw which by now I am an expert, but am not yet familiar with my VW.
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I think my oil pump bolt died today. Strange enough it happened when I was parking my car at work. I am sure it could be something else but its near the mileage that if it didn't happen early in its life it would happen around now. About 65k miles on my 07 3.6L 4MO
I have brand new 2011 2.5SE Jetta for loaner....
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I Have a 2000 Passat 30 valve v6. I got a low oil pressure message figured I could make it to the store for some oil. Well I turn a corner and heard a valve rattle and the car started to idle rough. I was two quarts low but the noise and the rough idle still exist. In neutral the noise is not noticeable. Driving the noise is only noticeable at high RPM. The car doesn't smoke and otherwise runs fine.
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We have a 2007 Passat. The tire pressure sensor broke off at the valve stem. In checking with the dealer, I was told the tire pressure sensor and valve stem are all one unit. My question is if you can use a regular valve stem and attach the sensor to it, or do you have to get the entire unit with the valve stem and sensor together.
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Daughters car is throwing this code of 17705 VW (1297) saying it is a "Pressure Drop Between Turbo And Throttle Valve" Car runs rough until about 2500 RPM. Replaced the pressure switch by the intercooler.
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i have a 2007 toyota camry that has lost a valve on one cylinder. 3.5 engine front cylinder on the right. is this common on just a fluke?
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Just got the dreaded p2440 code which is the secondary air injection valve failure. Not only do you get several lights on the dash, you also get limp mode with this code.
My GX is a 2011 with 46k, and even though several Toyota vehicles have had their warranty extended to 10yr 150k for this very system, Lexus has done no such thing.
The dealer was very familiar with this issue and knew it wasn't covered under any existing warranty. He said it's "around $2000" to fix because one of the valves is still under the intake manifold.
Even though I hate to "RIG" my GX, I ordered the bypass module from EBAY. It blocks the system off and tricks the ecu into thinking all is well.
For those not familiar, this system runs on cold starts for 30 seconds or so to warm up the cats, it has no other function.
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I'm having some trouble regulating the cabin temp in my 2002 SC430. It's cold outside here in Atlanta (in the 30's in the morning) and for some reason even when I have the temp set on 66 (not in auto mode) the cabin gets really hot! If I drop it to 65 the AC comes on. It's just weird.
Not sure where the temp sensor is located (will check the manual for that) but having a problem regulating the cabin temp. If put it the auto mode -- it ramps the fan up to high and cooks us all inside the car.
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I have a 2013 Elantra with 145,000 miles. The A/C isn't working--just blows out warm air. I checked and the compressor turns on when I hit the A/C button. I'd like to try refilling it. I can't find the low pressure valve location (only high). No luck on Google.
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2009 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl, 4.0L, 74K. Read code w/scanner - "P0128 - Coolant Temp below thermostat regulating temperature". Assuming this is pretty straight forward but was wondering what the most likely culprit is (?thermostat?). Ironically, this code popped about a week ago, I cleared it and actually got my inspection sticker earlier today and then later in the day, the CEL came on again and once again, the P0128 code. The coolant level is perfect so I know there aren't any leaks.
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I have a 2004 Touareg with 70,000 miles, and until recently the tire pressure monitors have worked perfectly. Now I'm getting a Flat Tire warning, or a warning of a defective wheel, or when I try to reset it tries to learn but fails, or it sets a tire pressure of say 42 but the pressure is only 38. The Dealer says "its a known problem", he thinks they're going to issue a recall, but doesn't have a fix.
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My 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
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I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. One of the tire valves has a slow leak. I figured I could get a new valve. But, instead, the guy reminds me that the valve has the pressure sensor built in. He could put in a regular stem, but then the light on the instrument panel would never go out and I'm assuming I couldn't get through inspection like that.
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These are my gauge readings at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to an AC conversion for gauges calibrated in Pascals, 35-40F converts to 241-276 KPa, 140-160F converts to 1000-1103Kpa. The gauges are in Mpa which by conversion is 3 decimal points to the left so .241-.276 and 1-1.103 Mpa. Here are my gauge readings at 68 degrees ambient temp. Rear air is same as an ambient temp on max ac and the front is pictured. There seem to be virtually no pressure differences which I would interpret as a novice that there is ) freon flow.
There is freon in the system with the high pressure being approx correct but the low side is too high if I understand correctly. Basically when at highway speeds at 75 degrees yesterday the front AC was cold and the rear was outside vent temp only. There are slight leaks in the low and high-pressure valves. I have a Mastercool replacement tool but they did not send a fitting for the high-pressure valve. What these readings mean as far as what may be wrong?
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Just had dealer repair shop complete power steering fluid flush in Jan 2013. Vehicle now has lost all power steering fluid (April 2013) and dealer repair shop has told me it is due to high pressure hose failure - need to replace & then verify pump condition (dealer repair shop not sure if pump bad until hose replaced to test) for repair bill.. I was told this was not related to repair shop power steering flush because this hose not removed for flush or part of that procedure (at which time a transmission flush & spark plugs replaced (minor tune-up) . Just wondering if any pro mechanic can respond with advice about the relative close time frame these two events & if there may be a probable related reason?
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We are having extremely cold weather. Yesterday my low air pressure icon came on. When I went to check the air pressure, I could not remove any of the caps.
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I just had my turbo and the EBPV on the pedestal rebuilt. Now I need to put it back into the truck. What is the procedure, if any, to adjust the EBPV? I only use the truck to haul a 5th wheel RV and the performance chip closes the EBP valve when going down steep hills -( EXHAUST BRAKE)
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I can't find canister pressure valve hose. It looks cut from the pressure valve in some way. Tried following it from gas tank but I've lost it through the chassis.
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I have a 2010 f250 6.4 About two months ago the truck just quite on me. I am a farmer in south jersey and have a decent background in diesel motors. First thing that came to mind was fuel. I assumed I was having a fuel issue (clogged filters, failed pump, etc.) truck only had 45,000 miles on it so I took it to my local dealership for what I assumed would be a warranty job. I dealer service all my trucks while under warranty. Long story short I was told it was a fuel contamination issue which scared the walls of the hpfp throwing metal pieces into the injectors, fouling them.
I would need all new injectors, fuel rails etc. as well as new filter housings, fuel tank cleaning, etc. I had receipts for every drop of fuel put in the vehicle and fought all the way to through the dealership to Ford who sent out a rep and who denied the warranty work. Fortunately my insurance company covered the ordeal and all repairs were completed. I got the truck back and 2 weeks later the truck died on me again. I called the dealership back who supposedly warranted the repairs but there first words were there is no way it is their problem, they would look at it but I have to consent that if they find it is contamination again I am responsible for the repairs which we all know just to diagnose they have to remove the cab etc.
I of course lost my mind and told them this is there issue and there is no way in hell I am that unlucky that I received 2 bad tanks of fuel from 2 different high volume highway side fuel stations in the same 2 months. it is obvious they missed something or there is another issue that was not addressed. They claim there is no way they missed something. I am at a standstill.
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