Passat (B5) :: Throttle Lag / When Shift Through First Two Gears RPM Not Dropping Immediately
May 18, 2006
I've just bought a 2002 Passat, v6 5 speed manual with 119,000 km on it. When I shift through the first two gears the rpm are not dropping immediately... about a 1 second lag. I haven't had a clear answer about what it is I have called two dealerships and two independent mechanics except. They say that it could be a variety of things that might be wrong with the throttle body.
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2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
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2001 B5.5 V6 Passat 4-motion.
there is a misfire code in plugs/wires/coil...one of those...but car isn't really running rough. the big prob i notice is when you start pushing accelerator, it wants to shift to 2nd even at like 5mph...can't be normal. can that be related to the misfire code showing up?
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I have a 98 passat v6. I was changing some fuses today and i restarted the car after that and i noticed the gear selector is solid so i looked in manual and it says car has electrical malfunction, how to get the car out of this mode i have had no problems until I touched the fuses ...
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After driving around hard for a couple minutes I got home and the car smelled like something is burnt then I went out to drive normally to get the smell out but didn't work. Then I realized my gears were hard to move into especially 1st, 2nd, 3rd. Its hard to change into those gears now. what could be the reason? What do i need to do for my gears to move smoothly again? I just got this car, my first.
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A few days ago when it was real cold my car would not shift into any gears. I shut it off and started it in neutral and was able to get it to shift, but after leaving it for a day or two it now will not go into gear. I have tried starting it in neutral and park, but it still will not let me push in the little thing to allow me to shift into reverse or drive. Why this might be happening or had this happen to them?? I'm thinking it might be related to the really cold weather. It's a 97 passat...Automatic....
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My daughters passat will not shift gears. Does'nt shift up when taking off. Does'nt slip or make noise. I have a 87 and 88 Cabriolet, one auto, the other manual 5 speed. Both have problems but, with the search key I have located and made repairs.
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I took my car in for the 10,000 mile service on friday. The tech noted that there is an active TSB for the 1.8 TSI engine that addresses an issue with the turbo engaging just before the shift from first to second gear resulting in a non-progressive throttle response. I told him that I didn't seem to really notice that issue, but to go ahead an install the software update anyway. He did. I'm surprised at the difference. The throttle is much more progressive and I feel like I have better control of the throttle. I highly recommend this update. This may also explain why the 2015 Passats with the same engine have a higher MPG rating than the 2014s. If this update prevents the turbo from coming on unnecessarily then that would certainly save on gas.
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Am facing a dropping on voltage power. When my truck on the idle the voltage reading 12.2V , but when I turn the HIDs and the a/c plus the a/c fan, the voltage drop to almost 9.5V , Then the transmission starts to slamming the gears. Is it the alternator acting or the Battery Which is new. I don't have the battery light on the dash but I think the dash light is not working .
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Whenever I completely engage the clutch after shifting into 5th, there car bogs for a second if I give immediate throttle after shifting. It doesn't happen if I wait a second or when driving in fifth gear.
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I'm having an issue with the truck not staying idle after cold start up. The truck will turn over and start right away (not even 2 second crank) but immediately dies. The throttle will not work at low RPM. When I start the truck, it will instantly rev high, the revs will drop low, it will try to compensate and rev high again, then it will immediately die.
If the RPMs are under under 2.5k, the truck will immediately stall and die. When I attempt to use the throttle under that RPM, it will not work. No matter how much I depress it, the engine will instantly cut and stall out. It will not attempt to deliver fuel. The only way I can get the truck started is if I rev the engine high and hold it. I need to hold the truck at 2.5k+ RPM for atleast 30 seconds. It generally takes me about 5 tries to finally get it running (mainly due to the throttle immediately cutting out and I have to 'catch' and hold it.) After that, there is no sign or issue. The truck will start immediately back up after it's been running for a couple minutes.
CEL: MAP sensor (0069?) -- Sensor is spotless. Harness looks fine. I replaced the injectors, both batteries, and the alternator this summer. It doesn't sound to be any these either as the truck sounds extremely healthy and immediately turns over.
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I've tried searching the threads to see if there is a similar problem, but it appears I have not found anything like this.
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Grill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
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Every so often, my manual transmission Corolla will "overthrottle" during acceleration, especially shifting into 2nd and 3rd gears (and sometimes even 4th), i.e., the engine will race above the usual RPMs associated with each gear, just for a bit. This however, isn't consistent. I still need to check if the engine air filter is dirty, which I suspect could be a part of the issue.
The vehicle has ca. 124,975mi, and only started exhibiting this problem 2-3 months ago, and only in 2nd gear. Again, this issue is very intermittent, and sometimes I can go a week or two without any incidents at all. The regular maintenance (oil changes, cooling system maintenance, etc.) has been faithfully performed according the manufacturer's specifications.
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I have the SE model and the only button i have is the traction control on/off button. I looked through the menu in the gauge cluster and I come across a "Eco mode indicator" on/off option. I turned it on and now the eco mode light engages when i drive.... I also noticed that the throttle response has been way numbed down and changes gears late. So basically the "indicator light" options is ACTUALLY the "eco mode".... why don't we have a button for this?
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I just completed installing rebuilt injectors in #2 and #4. for the 2nd time. The first set had failures with those two. After assembly, the engine runs rough which is understandable considering the air introduced. I can run the RPMs up while in neutral or park, however; there is almost no throttle response in drive or reverse. It will barely move and only slightly raises the RPMs. I am unable to drive it to get the air out until this particular issue is solved.
Prior to the tear down for #2 and #4, the throttle response was fine.
Current Codes:
P0272 - I am hoping this would go away once the air is gone.
Software:
AE w/ Ford Bundle (New to me)
Buzz test is fine
Power balance looks great
FICM logic and power are good
Skills:
DIY w/ limited electrical knowledge
Recent Mods in last 300 miles:
New heads
ARP studs
ICP
IPR
FICM w/ Atlas 40 from FICMreapir.com
Injector harness
HPOP
Chemical flushes
Oil Cooler
Leak Proof Ball Tubes
Stand Pipes
8 Rebuilt Injectors
Batteries
MAP Sensor
New Turbo w/ updated supply and return
All associated gaskets and orings replaced with the above
All OEM where available, except injector rebuild service
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I recently purchased an 03 GLX wagon 4 motion from a dealer as is. It had 84,000 on it when I got it and needed a timing belt. The work was performed by a VW dealer and all has been well until today. I was on the highway, had been working the car pretty well for about an hour and i noticed that the temp gauge which is at 190 religiously is now dropped down as low as 120- 130.
I continued to drive, thinking maybe just a bad sensor/gauge considering I had no check engine light yet. I still have good heat but when I got home I noticed that the coolant reservoir was bubbling pretty fierce. Couldn't tell if it was boiling or if it was compression coming back in from perhaps a head gasket failure.
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I have a 1997 chevy s10. Speedometer stopped working..abs lights come on once in awhile and wont shift into other gears. I have replace speed sensor, computer, wheel sensor and ignition switch assembly.
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Gears won't shift from park. What's wrong? Is it the neutral safety switch?
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We are having issues shifting the car it is hard to shift into gears. I have replaced the transmission and the clutch, trans mount is still good all mounts for that matter are still in great condition its getting tiring to have to slam the car into gear all the time.
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So my 2010 Camry LE with manual transmission has developed what I figure will be an expensive problem. It oftentimes grinds when I shift from 1-2. If I pause between the two it's fine, but if i just go straight to 2nd it grinds about 75% of the time so that I have to go back to neutral, let out the clutch, reengage and THEN go into 2nd gear. What could cause this? I'm stumped. There's no issues with any other gears and it does the same thing if I got from 3-2 also. It's to the point where I try to just skip using that gear. It's got about 135k miles.
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