So lately I have noticed this shuttering/stuttering when driving. It doesn't happen at any specific time its sort of random. I didn't know if its because of the extreme cold weather we have been having but its been happening too much. But I have also noticed a pretty gross oil smell coming from the car as well. What it could be?
View 5 RepliesI have a 08 2.0T sedan with 97K that I have been chasing a "shuttering" feeling in the front end when I go over harsh bumps like railroad tracks and frost heaves that we get on roads here in NE.
At this point the front suspension has had a lot of improvements done and problem still exits.
Front suspension work over last 6 months:
- New LCA Bushings (solid rubber style rear and Whiteline front)
- Koni FSD Shocks
- VW DG Sport Springs
- 034 Density upper strut mounts
- Meyle HD Sway Bar Link
- ECS Sub Frame Bolt Kit
After all this there is actually an increase in this shuttering feeling most likely due to a firmer suspension now with new springs.
The car drive fantastic, the feeling that there is something loose up front and the shuttering feeling when hitting harsh bumps is diving me crazy.
In addition, I drove a local VwVortexer's 06 Passat that is riding low on coilovers and it did not have this same shuttering from the front so pretty sure what is going on in my car is not normal.
Completely went through front suspension last night and tripled checked that everything is tight and secure!
Also, have upgraded sub frame bolts with ECS kit and checked all the bolts to make sure they are tight and all is good.
Since after all this work and substantial $$$ investment the problem is still there, should I be looking at motor mounts ?
The engine/tranny is no where near secure sitting in the existing mounts, have noticed two things that have been this way for quite awhile.
If parking brake is not on when tightening or breaking loose lug nuts car has a lot of rock back and forth and you can see engine moving a lot if hood open.
Last night I put a large screw driver between right side mount where piece from engine goes into frame mount and I can move engine side to side with minimal effort about 1 1/2" or more.
One more thing, when coming to a slow stop at the last downshift just before you stop I get a light clunk from left side somewhere and if you slow down from 50 mph or so to 25 to 30 mph and then put gas back on you get a left side clunk too but not always. Does it sound like bad mounts?
I have an 03 20th ani gti golf... It has been stuttering when idling and driving... Almost sounds like a subaru... I have changed the plugs/coilpacks but still does the same thing... My check engine light comes on and blinks.. Got the codes ran and it came up... Cylinder 2 misfire and catalytic convertor threshold....
View 7 RepliesMy wife and I have a 2004 F-150 5.4 L SCrew 2WD which is stuttering sporadically when we drive it. It will run fine and then suddenly when you increase pressure on the peddle, it will occasionally (one or twice per 30 min or more trip) hesitate. At first I was thinking it was a fuel problem, and now I am inclined to think it is a transmission problem. It causes jerking (feeling of loss of power) and then quickly goes away.
No codes show up in the computer and no lights come on in the dash. Miraculously when service drives it at the local dealer, they state that they don't find anything. We also feel the truck shifts hard since the last PCM update (the dealer states that it has the most recent PCM update). The condition has worsened and we are nearing our original MFW expiration at 36,000. We did purchase the prem extended warranty however. We recently talked the service manager into putting the in-flight computer in it, and I need to take it back today or tomorrow to have it removed.
I have a 97 Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0 V6, fuel injected, 4 wheel drive with a 5 speed. It has developed a stuttering or a hesitation at times while driving. It's hard to describe, but feels like the engine is not getting fuel or air at short quick bursts, thus a stuttering feel.
Some things I've noticed: It happens mostly when the engine is cold, but can happen any time.It seems to be worst during rain or snow.At low throttle, it can cause the whole vehicle to shudder violently and at full throttle (gas pedal down for acceleration) it is very noticeable but doesn't seem to cause the vehicle to shudder as hard. I think I hear a metallic pop or clack when it happens, especially at high throttle. It doesn't seem to matter what gear I'm in.It doesn't matter whether I'm on a flat or a hill. It doesn't seem to matter what speed I'm going, but it is a little harder to notice cruising along at 65.
Maintenance History: The vehicle has had several things replaced in 2011: Alternator, crank position sensor, relay on the ASD, serpentine belt, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, battery, engine compartment fan.
The vehicle went into the shop when it started dying at stop lights or stop signs and starting hard. The diagnosis was the crank position sensor and that did indeed seem to fix that problem. Within a few days, however, the vehicle started running rough and would come close to stalling when idling at a stop. My mechanic sprayed a bunch of cleaner down into the air intake part of the engine (a part that reminded me of the butterfly valve on a small carburetor). The problem went away, but this stuttering problem started up about a day later.
My 1996 Honda Accord V6 has a stuttering problem. It only happens (or is only noticeable) when driving at a constant speed. It is most noticeable when driving in the 45 - 55 mph range. It feels like the engine has millisecond breaks in power. And this does not happen all the time. Some days, it drives just fine with no problems. It idles fine. The problem is not noticeable, if there at all, during acceleration.
One other piece of information that might - or might not - be relevant is that the tachometer seems to be out of its mind. It bounces all over the place up and down. This also does not happen all the time, and it seems to me, though I'm not 100% certain, that the stuttering problem only happens when the tach is crazy..I have had no luck getting a mechanic to diagnose the problem. They claim the tach problem is totally unrelated.
Sometimes, when I get on the gas rather hard, my acceleration is sort of stuttery and jerky. It's not a traction issue, and I just got Unitronic stage 1...but I was having this issue before that.
View 1 RepliesI have 22K miles on my '12 TDI Passat VW. Suddenly there is a "stuttering" from the transmission between 1st and 2nd gear. Why is this happening now? And what can be done about it? Happens first thing in the morning. My dealer says "it is a characteristic of the transmission and this is normal." Normal? Why did I travel 22K miles before this started?
View 4 RepliesMy turn signal relay clicking and stuttering randomly. When turn or warning signal used it operates normally with absolutely no problem and sounds healthy. But when not used and supposed to be quite - it goes again. When stuttering - there is absolutely no indication other than clicking sound that something is wrong.
View 11 RepliesMy vehicle has started to idle very rough, stuttering and almost dies at stop lights. It hesitates when accelerating, and really shakes and rattles if the AC is turned on. The check engine light and EPC lights are on. And even letting the foot off the brake in drive causes it to jerk along. I am up around 65k miles and have not had too many issues other than a fuel pump getting replaced last year. (the dealer first started replacing and charging me for many other items) I am scared to go back without trying to trouble shoot it myself.
What it could be and if there is anything I can try to correct it myself?
I'm sure it's something worse, because I've had very bad luck with my 02 Volkswagen Passat. Since last Wednesday, my car has been stuttering when I step on the gas in the early gears but when you get to about 30-40mph it runs fine with an occasional light stutter. Saturday the check engine light came on, then went off. Yesterday it came on while on the highway and has not shut off yet.
My VW has 105K miles on it and hasn't had a tune up since 50K. Does it need a tune up or isn't it something else if the check engine light comes on? If it is a tune up, is it possible to do it yourself? I don't really tinker with engines much, but I like to think I can be somewhat handy. I've changed my brakes and rotars, headlights and other things. Is it just spark plugs, oil and air filters?
Last week, my V10 started this. It does it in high torque conditions and under full throttle. Seems to hold gear at redline until you let completely off the accelerator. Power loss and shuttering are the main complaints. I will call my dealer to see what they think.
View 21 Replies1984 Ford F-150. Yesterday, began to shutter like a screen door in a hurricane at 35 MPH. I hit the brakes, it pulled hard left. Figured some catastrophic failure of my brake system. Pulled over. Had it towed to mechanic. Mechanic says both front discs have to be replaced (calipers, pads, brake lines). Seem reasonable? Something about sticking calipers and warped discs, etc..
View 4 RepliesI have a 1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 6 cyl. This car just all of a sudden started shuttering and not wanting to take off. It will if I floor it but will still shutter a little?
View 10 RepliesOk, my 2003 Ex Limited with 109,000 started doing the same thing today that it has done many times before. It started shuttering and then stalled. It comes out of nowhere and then the overdrive light flashes at the same time. I have had the coil packs replaced in the past, but not all of them at once. I also had the torque converter replaced last year as well. I am pretty sure that it's more coil packs that need to be replaced again. I'm sick and tired of replacing coil packs on this truck, it seems like they go bad very quickly. It's so bad I'm thinking about getting rid of this truck and getting something different.
View 14 RepliesWith normal acceleration my ex up shifts at about 50-55 mph and makes a shuttering noise and has a slight vibration briefly during the up shift. Could a tranny fluid change work?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 F150 Xlt super crew with a 4.6L. I've noticed lately when I start from a full stop the the truck has a small shutter or hesitation before it starts accelerating. Its barely noticable but it is there. What it could be? I had the tourque converter replaced just before my warranty was up, I've only put 30000 Km on it since. Was wondering if it could be the cause.
View 3 RepliesI've recently purchased a 02 F-150 4x4 with 135k showing. About a week after purchase 4 COP's were replaced to eliminate a skip that started the day I drove it home. After a few hundred more miles it started shuttering at take off, much the same as the trans shuttering usually in higher gears/speeds. Only does it briefly in 1st gear and occasionally it goes into 2nd, but stops immediately after shift. After about 10 miles it stops doing it and until the trucks sits awhile it stays gone. About the same time a popping sound started coming from the rear axle at slow speeds. It changes sides as you drive and turn, and sometimes goes away intermittently altogether. Also is it possible or probable the two are related ?
View 4 RepliesMy 87 Acura Legend with 210,00 miles has an automatic transmission slipping problem. Car will not start moving when in the D position (slips), but if i shift manually to 2 , then S3 , it shifts ok except for some shuttering when shifting to D at about 35 mph. It also does not lock into Park when shifting to P position( car will roll when on a hill.) The shift cable and adjustment are ok. The S3 light does not blink and there are no codes stored. The trans fluid was changed 5,000 miles ago and level and condition are both good.( I have only used Honda fluid for the life of the car and change it every other oil change.) I removed the shift solenoids to find all of the screens clean and all solenoids clicked when 12v applied. At this point i realize i probably have an internal problem (possibly bad clutch pack?) My question is why doesn't the parking pin lock? Is this related to the slipping problem?
View 2 RepliesI recently bought an 04 lariat crew cab with 56K miles 5.4 and auto trans. Before i bought it i complained about an exhaust noise and acceleration issue at 40mph and 1100 rpm as well as the ac not being very cold. They replaced the exhaust manifold on the passenger side, coil pack on the #3 cylinder, a transmission flush, a flash drive update and recharged the ac. This seemed to take care of the problem but i mostly drove under 30mph and did not notice it. I took it on a few road trips, and country roads and noticed the problem of sputtering and shuttering between 40-60 mph's after decelerating and slowly accelerating. The problem occurs consistently with ac and over-drive on in the above mentioned conditions and mph range. Problem is less noticeable with ac off and have not noticed it at all with over-drive off. It feels like a limited slip kicking in or driving on dry pavement in 4wd. Tranny shifts fine through all gears in a straight pull of acceleration and even full throttle pulls. Problem only occurs after decelerating and slowly accelerating. I don't know of any codes as I don't have a code reader, but I have not had any check engine lights come on nor has the dealer mentioned any codes.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Ford Expedition with approx 135k miles with a 5.4. At approx 45 miles per hours it starts shaking and shuttering. It feels almost like you ran over one of those traffic bumps. I've had quite a few issues I've been working so I recently changed all my plugs with motorcraft platinum and all new COPs.
When I am going approx 45 miles per hour it will shutter for about 1-2 seconds with overdrive on. You can almost time it that it will do it every 4 seconds. With overdrive off, you can feel something dragging down the engine and hear a light grinding noise or a mechanical sound but the shuttering is less. I feel there is something definitely cycling approx every 4 seconds.
When i am doing heavy acceleration I feel that it has adequate power and now that I've replace the plugs/cops I don't feel any significant misses etc under hard acceleration (before I changed the plugs/cops I did feel misses).