Passat (B5) :: Keeps Cranking With Click Noise But Won't Start - Clock Reset
Sep 12, 2011
I drove two days ago. Yesterday I didn't drive. I just walked out to start my car and it won't start. It keeps cranking (click noise). The lights are turned on, locks response to my remote, radio works, but I noticed the clock was set back to 12:00 and it's 4:00pm right now.
Two days ago, I noticed my car hesitate a little when I accelerated to 35-40.
I drive a 99 1.8 t Passat
Turns out i needed a battery replace. my battery was having 67 amps compared to 500 requirement.
Question: Does low battery life cause the car to hesitate (like as if the cylinder misfire) at 35-40 mph acceleration?
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Just got the car and every time I stop and restart the car the clock reset to 1:00. everything else works fine and nothing else resets. no fuses are blown, etc. Radio presets and memory seats keep their settings. called the dealer and they are supposed to be getting back to me.
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I recently had my oil changed. And when I was driving home noticed my clock had reset. I have a brand new battery. I set the clock back to the right time, then headed out of town the next day. When I went to turn off the interstate my blinker did not work at all. When I pulled into a station I saw neither one worked.
My 2006 Elantra is also suddenly using double the amount of gas. I took it to a place 2 days later when I got home. The turn signals decided to start working the second it went in the shop, yet hadn't worked 10 minutes before I got there, and they didn't know what the cause of the clock resetting itself would be, or the higher gas usage.
I did have somebody check to make sure my battery cables were tight. I am at a loss yet these problems all started at the exact same time. What I could have checked? My car ran great before this last oil change. Now I don't even go out of town because of it hogging gas.
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I have a 2002 Avalon XLS with 160K. I recently had the clock spring replaced by a friend, which fixed what it was supposed to fix - airbag light went off, cruise works, horn works. He did disconnect the battery when he did the work.
Whenever I turn off the car, and turn it back on, the time and date have resent to default, and I lose all the radio settings like stations, bass, treble, etc.
I have to admit I'm not sure if the current problem started RIGHT after the clock spring work, or a bit later. I'm thinking I would have noticed it right away. But I know the time/date and radio settings did work right before.
I've scoured the internet and can't find an actual answer - a lot of "could be". My hope is that the "secondary, memory" power fuse is blown.
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My info screen will display all info but the clock will reset over and over and the. Buttons will not respond?
Here is a video of what it's doing : [URL] ....
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My 2007 (with Nav package and aftermarket Sirius radio) recently started losing channel settings on the Sirius (not on the FM radio!), the dash clock resets, and, recently, the miles-per-gallon and miles driven since last fill-up reset to zero. These events are sporadic, but have started occurring more often. The dealer seems unable to figure out the problem.
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Recently my santa fe has been acting up. One time I got in and nothing came on, no light, door noise, nothing. I closed, then opened my door and everything turned back on, clock reset itself and the cd changer kept shuffling through the cds. Another time this happens before I got in the car. I opened my door to hear the cd changer shuffling and the clock had reset. This has happened 4 time in the pasted 3 weeks.
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I've got a 2008 chev 2500 6.0 liter. This is a intermittent problem. Turn the key "click" nothing happens, try again it starts. Clock sets back to 1200. Chev garage says it's not starter because clock sets back to 1200. Lights will slightly flicker when you step on the brakes. Grounds have been cleaned, battery 1 year old. Ignition switch tumblers working hard. Any guesses. Chev garage cure is run it til it dies.
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I have been having electrical issues with my 2001 manual transmission Jetta. At times I turn the car off, remove the key and the radio stays on, trip mileage and clock will reset. I also had where I was at a stopped at a traffic light and the ABS, engine light, and another light (not sure which one, it was too fast) flashed on for half a second. What should be looked at first and possible changed?
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I have a 2002 Mini Cooper I bought a year and a half ago. The last couple of months when I shut my car off I sometimes hear a buzz sound near the center console and my trip odometer resets to zero, and my LED clock resets to 12 Midnight. Sometimes it happens when you open the door after turning the car off. In the Mini's there is a feature that the windows automatically lower a 1/4 inch when you open the doors, allowing air to escape when you shut the door after exiting. When this happens, sometimes that triggers the "buzz" sound and the reset thing happens. This doesn't seem to effect anything else, its just bothersome because I keep track of my miles with the trip odemeter, and I have to keep correcting the clock. Oh Yeah! one more thing that happens, when i am using the Air Conditioner and slow down after full speed, there is what I would describe as a power surge. All the dash lights go off for a split second then come back on.
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I have a 93 Corolla that won't start. Here was the approximate sequence of events:
Car had been sitting for about 1 week. Went to start it and no cranking sound occurred. I tried repeatedly and heard an occasional click and the dash warning lights would vary in brightness from full bright to very dim. Got my friend to give me a jump start and it cranked/started on the first attempt. Drove around for about 20 minutes to recharge the battery.When I got home I turned the car off and made another attempt and ... nothing. No cranking sound, just a click. So I tried again and all of a sudden it started IMMEDIATELY (first crank)!So I turned it off again, and now every subsequent attempt just causes a lot of clicking, and the dash lights come on but vary a great deal in terms of how bright they are.
So... I'm thinking it can't be the battery. If it was the battery that wouldn't explain why it started immediately following not starting. Seems strange that the jump worked, but perhaps that was just a lucky attempt.
What do you think? Bad ignition switch? Anything else I can test?
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98 Passat 1.8T FWD
Car will not start. No sound from fuel pump while cranking. Pulled up the carpets and pulled the cover and connector from the fuel pump. Ive heard the relay is the common problem. I tried checking the voltages on the harness and we get 0 while cranking. Pulled the relay and we get a resistance from T pin to pin 86. I did notice a yellow color on the white connector on the fuel pump itself around the middle two contacts.
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My 2016 Outback, 10K miles, occasionally does a weird thing. The dealer is far from us, so I'm putting off taking it in, especially since they will be unable to reproduce this. Every now and then when I try to start it, it does not crank. The dash lights all come on, and dim when I turn it to the start position. But instead of cranking, it just does a soft stuttering click, exactly as if the battery were nearly dead. But if I try a few times, suddenly it cranks perfectly and starts right up.
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What updates were done to the 3.6 engine for 2008? So far in 100 or so miles I've noticed that the 2008 3.6 is:
Much easier to start. (06/07 requires cranking much longer to start)
idles smoother (06/07 shook a little when sitting at idle)
accelerates smoother
then the 2007.5 3.6 I had, and the 2006 3.6 in my friends Passat.
Both of those did have the OJ update done. The only visual difference is the plastic engine cover. On the 06 and 07 it has a silver colored cover. the 08 has a black cover that is different in shape.
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Lately my '03 1.8t with 90k has taken to long cranking before firing.Once it fires, it runs rough for about two seconds and then smooth as usual. Thought it might be Fuel pump relay but I'd think that'd show a fault light. Same with Fuel pump?No faults showing up. Plugs changed 9k ago. Only run Premium Shell.
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Truck has 190,000 miles. First, every now and then the truck won't start. Turn the ignition key to the start position and nothing happens - like the battery is dead. Turn the key back to the off position, wait maybe 10 - 15 sec. Try and start again - starts right up. This maybe happens about half the time I start the truck. Always seems to start first start attempt of the day. Only later does it start to behave this way.
I took it into a repair shop and they claimed it was the starter relay. After the repair (about two weeks) it seemed fixed - started all the time. Then a couple of days ago it began to do the same thing again. Only now, maybe 10 - 20% of the time doesn't want to crank (vice 50% or more before the repair). Doesn't seem to be the battery because when it cranks it cranks very strong and starts right up.
Now additionally, today, the truck just dies while driving. Doesn't stall or run rough just before dying - just dies - like turning the ignition switch to off. Interestingly, it starts right back up after this - no extended cranking, etc., just starts right up. I have tried "jiggling" the start switch to see if maybe it is failing, but it has no effect. That is, when the truck won't crank, "jiggling" the switch won't make it crank, and "jiggling" the switch while the truck is running doesn't cause it to die. Sometimes, the waiting 10 -15 secs or so between crank attempts doesn't work - that is, it doesn't crank, but if I open up the hood and take the starter relay out of its socket and put it back in, it cranks.
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When I braked today, I noticed a noise. IT's like *clink* noise everytime I brake. Is it cuz Im braking too hard?
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So I recently bought a Hyundai Elantra Gt 2003 that I totally love. But ever since I bought it, it struggles to turn on. It makes a cranking noise before it turns on, and it takes about 2 to 3 times for it to fully turn on. I changed the crank shaft sensor and the fuel pump. What can it be?
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Sometimes when I start my car it makes a weird cranking/grinding noise for half a second. The closest thing I have to engine mods are my TWM short shifter, and my borla axle back exhaust.
The noise only happens after my car has been sitting there, parked for a few hours. So to bring it to Toyota/mechanic would be nearly impossible to replicate, unless I left it there for a while. And even then, the noise only happens sometimes.
Yes I'm pressing my clutch pedal all the way down. No I am not holding the key too long when starting the car. What it might be?
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I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V6. I am ready to sell it but I have a problem and the problem only happens when I'm driving it. Every once in awhile..about 7 times a week, when I turn the key it will make a one click noise but not start. It then starts after the 2nd or 3rd try. I have now taken my Jeep to 3 car repair shops. It has never happened with any of them. They have checked the usual suspects: battery, alternator, and starter (I even had a new starter installed just in case) and everything checks out. My latest car repair guy has had it for 3 days and it starts every time. The last time I brought it home 10 minutes after I had cut my car off and got back in to go somewhere, it did it again. There is no consistency when this happens whatsoever.
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I hear that noise from back.."click".."click".... a metal sound click noise intermittently/ randomly from rear. I took it to the dealer and the work order said "noise suppression ordered" but then i went for the servicing over the weekend and the customer service was saying "the technician has to talk to the part manager to see when the part will arrive, could take a month since this is not a genuine VW part".. What a noise suppression is? that could mitagate/reduce or eliminate this weird clicking noise coming from rear randomly?
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