Passat (B5) :: Fog Lights - Multiple Blown Fuses
Feb 3, 2008
My fog lights were working perfectly but I got the dumb idea that I wanted to turn them yellow. I bought some Hella Yellowstar 55w bulbs and installed them. Fogs worked for a couple of hours then I noticed that they wouldn't turn on. I replaced the 15A fuse and once again it worked fine for a couple of hours before I blew another fuse. Now every time I replace the fuse it blows as soon as I switch the fogs on. Was I correct in thinking that 55w was the wattage of the stock lights? Also I understand that you're not supposed to touch the bulb itself as oil on your fingers will heat up once the light is on and cause this problem. Tomorrow I am going to reinstall the stock bulbs and replace the fuse again and see if they work.
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4 days ago, my '04 Chevy Aveo (89,300 miles) would not shift out of park and no brake lights were coming on. I had to use the shift lock release to start the car in neutral, and I took it to dealer. Dealer replaced the brake switch. One day later, the problem returned. I took back to dealer, and they showed me that the light blue "15" stop fuse (the right column of fuses, second one down) had blown. They replaced. It again worked for a day, and the problem came back. Each time I put a new 15 fuse in now, it works temporarily, but now fries either immediately or within an hour. In order to drive, I still have to use the shift lock release, which isn't great, because it means I have to drive without brake lights.
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A couple years ago my car got stuck in Park, in which I had discovered my brake lights and a few other electrical fuses blew at the same time. It has happened randomly about 4-5 other times since, in which I take it back to the dealership and they "fix it" temporarily. After about a 1 1/2 years of no trouble, it happened again, and the dealership traced it back to the GEM module, which they replaced for me. Electrical components I forgot I had (like automatic locking doors) came back- for about a week. I got stuck in Park again, lost my break lights, as well as some other functions. I haven't noticed this problem on the focus with other discussions. Now it has added to much time in the shop, multiple FORD dealerships unable to fix it properly, and lots of wasted money. Shouldn't a new electrical unit fix the problem?
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A dealership is attempting to charge me several hundred dollars to replace blown fuses that they claim is a result of an overpowered attempt at charging a seemingly dead 12V battery. The interesting part is that after also replacing the air/fuel ratio sensor (which they initially claimed was the cause of a check engine light even after replacing the fuses) Toyota is telling them that the ECM should be replaced in order to extinguish the check engine indicator.
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My cousin's 2009 Prius won't start and jump starting did nothing for them. In fact, when they tried it, they got sparks when they hooked up the ground cable and the headlights came on and stayed on the entire time they were attempting to jump it. Try again, and same thing but now I know they didn't go about it incorrectly or anything. There are also at least three blown fuses, I believe she said they corresponded to the smart key system, electronic throttle control (both up front) and then one in the trunk for the hybrid system.
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On a 2001 tacoma, 6 cyl ext cab. I had an issue where multiple fuses would blow continually. That issue stopped, went away on its own. But now the power windows won't work and that fuse is fine, changed it just to be sure anyways. Dealer tells me it needs an ecu and harness (since you can't buy JUST the ecu).
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This morning everything worked on a 1999 Suburban 4x4. One hour later, my blinkers (turn signals) were not working. Flashers were.
I checked the fuse (fuse 16) for the turning signals - blown. I bought some fuses - replaced turn signal fuse. It blew immediately and then the hazards no longer worked. I replaced that fuse and the hazards lasted a few seconds.
Hazards & brake lights are on the same fuse (fuse 1) so I am left with no brake lights, hazards or turn signals - I am an accident waiting to happen!
I switched my cigarette lighter fuse for the hazards/brake light fuse - didn't start the car - and turned on the hazards. I heard the fuse blow immediately.
My husband put a new radio in last year at this time and has fog lights wired to it - but that was last year not last week...
I know trailer lights are attached to fuse 16 (turn signals). I bought this car used, but it does have a trailer hitch with wires that I have never used.
Where to even start looking for the short... a short that would cause the hazards/brake lights to short out also.
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Just had car in for inspection/oil change. now car starts but can't shift out of park and no horn, brake lights, radio, gas gauge, odometer, etc.
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I have a '95 Camry LE with the 2.2L four cylinder. The car ran PERFECT. Went to town today, great. Get in it a few hours after returning, it will turn over but not start. It is getting fuel, no fuses are blown, but is not getting fire.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Suddenly the blower-motor stopped working. I looked at the under-hood fuse panel and noticed a few of the fuses in the fuse bus-bar were blown, however I'm not sure how the bus-bar is removed. Is this most likely my blower-motor problem? If so, how do I replace those fuses?
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I did a bad thing last night, I put a jumper in the 20 amp cigar/data link connector and all kinds of things went out, will not shift out of park, no directional, power windows, power mirrors, no brake lights ,no hazards, no wipers, no interior lights and I don't know what ever else is not working.
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I just got a call from my dad about his Passat, and am doing some research for him. He said that on his way home just now, the warning buzzer sounded, and that the 'brake' light, ABS light, traction control light and oil light all came on simultaneously. He was stuck in traffic, so couldn't pull over immediately... after about 10-15 seconds, they went off again. It then repeated once or twice for a few seconds later on the drive.
I've just done a bit of searching, but it is hard to know what to search for in this case. I did see some threads about a defective ABS module triggering the ABS and Brake lights, as well as a bad brake light switch (don't know if that has been replaced on this car yet). But that doesn't cover the Oil and ASR lights as far as I know. Any other possibilities?
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We have a fleet of Prius's with 11k miles on them. Windshield wipers don't work and cigarette lighter plugs don't work. I'm guessing this is due to blown fuses. Where the fusebox is? I'm getting fed up with this. Also, is there a diagram somewhere that shows which fuses are for which circuits? (IE Which number fuses protects windshield wiper circuit) so I can finally see in the rain...
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I was driving and the red BRAKE came on flashing and it beeped. Then the message came on saying Emergency Brake Failure - See Manual. Then the Emergency Brake light came on. Next the Antislip light came on. After a few miles another light came on - ESL or something like that. Then the ABS started kicking in almost every time I stepped on the brake. Later the trans stuck in 3rd gear.
Wouldn't upshift or downshift - even in TIP mode. I took it to the dealer the next day and they couldn't find anything wrong, so they gave it back to me and said to call baco or bring it in if it does it again. Then a week later it did the same thing except getting stuck in 3rd. Took it back again. This time the Emergency brake light was still on. They have had it since yesterday and still can't find anything wrong.
I suggested looking for a bad ground connection somewhere. They say they have done that. Battery is original but starts just fine. Also suggested battery cables.
It's a '07 B6 Wagon - 3.6L TIP ....
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My fuses on the directional (10 amp) and Hazard lights (15 amp) keep blowing out it just happened all of a sudden? What it can be? t 2004 R32....
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I am having a problem with my dashboard lights blowing fuses. I bought an 87 Ranger XLT, and found that the dash lights didn't work. The 5 amp dash light fuse was blown, and the dome light would not come on using the switch. I replaced the fuse with a 15 amp and replaced the headlight switch which had melted the connector at one of the terminals. The dome light now comes on using the switch and I was able to get the dash lights to come on at a very low setting, but the headlight switch will smoke some.
But when I turn the switch to brighten the dash lights, it causes the tail light fuse to blow. I don't see how the dash lights could blow the tail light fuse, but it happens as soon as I install a new fuse and brighten the dash lights. What is going on? I think it is probably a short somewhere, so I pulled the instrument cluster and looked at the wires, didn't see anything exposed.
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I have just bought the Passat 2002 TDI AVF engine. When I open the fuse box cover and look at the scheme, I can conclude that some fuses are missing. Probably I don't understand the symbols' meanings. For example the fuse 41 is missing, but my ABS works. But I have the ESP so though that is the same device probably the fuse 42 is for ABS too. Then, the fuse 9 is missing, and my car has the mirror heat function. How can I test do they work? Does the little symbol on the heat switch become yellow when they work? Fuse 10 is missing if I understood the symbol was for CD. My car has Charger in the back and it works.
The last thing is fuse 1. What is this fuse for? Is it for headlight washer, and if is, what is the fuse 3 for? I disregarded the possibility that some cars may have the washing water heater and it is may be for that. My car doesn't have either headlights washer or water heater. The fuse 18 is for long beam and signal lamp, it is obvious.
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I've blown my turn signal fuse for 3 times until the relay burned out. Now I have had cleaned turn signal switch (with CC) from all of the old stuff in there and replaced hazard switch. But it happens again! After 5 minutes driving, both fuses (7,5 AMP for turn signals and 15 AMP hazard) blown out. I'm afraid there are some shorts in wirings.
I'm looking for the wiring diagrams or any other users experience in this matter... Where shall I start from?
There was a water leakage behind and under drivers seat. I removed trims etc. to lift the carpet to take the Comfort Module for checking as there were some weird thing in overall car electric systems (central locking, saloon lightnings, electric windows and dropping gauges on instrument panel. I found a small amount of water in container, where the module is placed, but on the electric parts weren't any water marks... Also it's impossible to connect to the CCM via vag-com.
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My high beam doesnt work. I have a Euro Passat with H7. I bought new H7 yesterday but still no luck.
I have switched fuses to new ones.
Is there anything else I can check?
Is there relays on this model for the high beams?
Low beams works fine and everything else in lights.
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Car is a 2002 b5.5 1.8t sedan.
Bought the DDM Tuning HIDs, 3500k 35w for the fogs, installed with no problems. Also ordered the 5000k 35w for the low beams. Installed them, they flickered on for a second, then nothing. Let the ballasts charge for a while but still nothing. Called DDM, they said my car needs a error code eliminator kit thing later they were at my doorstep. Plugged one side in, flicked on then nothing. Thought both sides might need the code eliminators plugged in...wrong. both flickered on, and then nothing. Tried again, no flicker, both low beam fuses burned. Plugged the regular bulbs in, changed the fuses, lights working again.
I don't know much about electrical, but DDM said i def don't need a relay kit. Do I need a relay kit? Or would putting higher amperage fuses in the place of the original ones work? if so what amperage?
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I have a 2006 Prius with approximately 112,000 miles. It has been a merely perfect car until yesterday. Everything was driving normal on my way to the store. When I turned on my car to leave the store a half hour later, the red exclamation point of death showed up along with the check engine light, ((!)) and the VSC signal all came on. Upon reading on this site, I decided to run the 12V battery test through the nav screen and sure enough, I believed that is what it was. I bought a battery and had it put in. I left the shop and and all the dash warning lights went off. When I restarted my car 10 minutes later to head back to work, all of those exact warning lights came on.
I ended up taking it into the Toyota Dealership Service area. They tried to reset the dash warning lights by pulling out the battery fuse (I think that's what they are called) in the front box of the car. It didn't work so they gave me the option to pay for the diagnostic ($98) or leave and drive around and hope everything is fine. I wanted peace of mind, so I had them do the diagnostic.
The assistant service manager came back 1.5 hours later and told me he had bad news. He said that there were faulty cells in my hybrid battery, which is why the service lights remained on. I almost started crying, sharing that I had thoroughly researched the prius before buying and that this forum, specifically had almost no talk of this...that is rarely if ever happened, that it needed to be replaced. He said in his 15 years at Toyota he had only seen it a couple of times. He told me warnings to look out for is if my car won't go above 25 miles an hour or it could technically start using only the gas side of the engine. He also said that the car just needs to "relearn" how to operate after replacing the 12v battery and it could essentially be fine.
He then quoted me $3500 if I ended up down the road of needing the battery replaced.
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