Passat (B5) :: Won't Start And No Crank - Ignition Switch?
Oct 18, 2008
well for a few days the car woudln't start every 10 times or so , i'd turn it back and forth a few times and it would kick over , then tonight wife took it and it just wouldn't start so i went and picked her up and tried it about a 100 times and called a tow truck
so what does everyone think it is, everything else is normal but the no crank. ignition switch maybe? I'm going to try and pop the clutch after it gets here, i didn't have the room or distance to try it where it was
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This problem has been with the car since I bought it in 2004 and lived up north in Yellowknife, NT. Whenever the outside temp got down to minus 20 or so the car would not start. Turn the ignition switch on and all the idiot lights are on, turn the key to engage the starter and nothing. I found out by trial and error that if I let the key turn back to the ignition setting ever so slowly it will come to a point where the starter engages. It takes some trial and error but usually that works. However, if it got to minus 30 even that would not work. I would then have to place an electric heater in the driver's foot well for half an hour or so and then the car would start perfect.
Now I've moved south where it does not get that cold however now the problem is happening even at zero degrees. Yesterday was minus 1 or 2 and car would not start without jiggling the ignition switch around. Today plus 11 and starts as it should. To me it sounds like a mechanical problem with the ignition switch however I don't know.
2003 V6 GLS 4-motion....
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Had been having problems with ignition on my 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport. Key was loose and eventually wouldn't stay in "on" position without being jerry-rigged (don't ask). Replaced the Ignition Control Switch and the Key cylinder today and car won't start. Checked fuses and they look fine.
Used this video as a guide and it installed perfectly. [URL] ......
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I've got a problem with my 93 ford escort. About a month ago things in it began to stop working. 1st the wipers and then the heater. and now the ignition won't start my car. It will allow it to turn over but it doesn't turn on the engine light before it starts to kick in. Bad key assembly or the whole switch? Or a relay ?
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The car is a 1998 Nissan Maxima. As you well know a car's interior in the summer is about 10 to 15 degrees more than the outside. When the outside temperature is 80 degrees or more I can't readily start the car. I turn the key and nothing happens. Sometimes I put the switch into the "on" position wait about 20 to 30 seconds, turn the key again and the engine starts. I think I need an ignition switch. My question is why does this happen? What does the temperature of the car's interior have to do with the poor operation of the switch? The interior of the car must be about 75 degrees or less for the car to start.
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Just got this car it's 2001 gti turbo. The guy said that the key fob was back. But I changed the starter and still no luck. It had all new plugs and I went to check for spark and there was no spark or fuel. So then I got a new crankshaft sensor and still no luck. I haven't gotten the chance to check for spark yet. And now those lights and beeping keep happening even without the key In the ignition. Can it be the ignition switch or something worse?
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I recently bought a 98 Passat with what was thought to be an ignition switch problem.. well I changed the switch today and the problem is still there.. it would start sometimes and and sometimes it won't do anything. Not even click.. and sometimes when it starts it sounds like the starter isn't getting enough juice.. another weird thing is that I can start the car without pressing the clutch.(when it does start).. There is actually a couple of electrical oddities going on.. the moonroof would go up by itself randomly and the radio (after matket) doesn't save any of my presets. Every time I turn the car off the radio resets.. so I'm thinking some weird electrical problem is going on..
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I have a 2006 chevy impala LT 3.9 v6. Intermittently it wont start, crank it and it does nothing. All accessories work fine. Had a new starter installed, switched the relay it works on, had the ignition switch changed (twice), had the passlock system replaced, new keys for the ignition. Had the car to the dealer four, times. It doesn't happen all the time so it cant be reproduced at will. I just keep trying to start it and it will eventually start, it can be turning the key from 4 to 40 times. there's no rhyme or reason, some times it doesn't happen for 5 days, then it happens everyday for a week.. according to the dealer when they reproduced it it was the ignition switch. I doubt i got 2 bad ignition switches so i don't believe the error is being reported correctly. According to chevy they have no other reports of this..
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I have a peculiar problem with my 2010 Santa-Fe 3.5L
Every now and again, and more often recently, when I try to start the car with the ignition switch, it cranks well, but doesn't, or takes a while to start. If, after trying to start it with no success, I give it a few seconds, I usually get it going, but not always instantly like it used to.
However, If I try to start it with the remote, it starts instantly, every time. What could be the cause?
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'04 RX330: Starting about a year ago, occasionally when inserting the ignition key it wouldn't turn to start. Take key out try again and it would start. Progressively, it seems to be requiring more and more in/out cycles to get the key to turn. It's like the transponder is not recognizing the key FOB. I have two keys, one is a master and other is a sub key, both have the problem. What has to be done to correct it? I'm afraid the dealer will just change some expensive ignition part when there's an easier fix.
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Starting one time in January, the SUV would have all ACC power but failed in every attempt to crank or turn. Nothing happened whatsoever when the key turned. No dim in the lights, the battery was fine. After about 30 minutes it started right up.
The issue started again this week, occurring twice. Both times while the vehicle had been sitting for more than 4 hours. I'm unsure what the issue is. I took it to Autozone to have them try and diagnose it to no avail.
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My 3.0 L Honda Accord won't start the way it should. I've included a video of the situation. I need to figure out what I need to replace. [URL] ....
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I'm trying to get friend's 04 F150 4x4 started. I think it might be the ignition switch. Here's what I've done. Turn the Key and nothing happens. Not even a clicking sound from the battery.
-verified the battery had a good charge and that terminals were clean, connections were tight.
-checked the fuses in the passenger side kick panel, none were blown
-Determined there was power to the primary Pos wire going to the starter , but no power being sent to the smaller wire that goes to solenoid at the starter.
-Hooked a jumper wire to the starter solenoid and engine did crank (so starter is good and battery is making good connection)
This is why I'm thinking its the ignition switch.
1) Where is the ignition switch located?
2)How can I test the ignition switch?
3)Could it be the "cylinder lock and keys" that is faulty?
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I have a 2001 f350 this morning I went to start the truck the key turn but I heard a click sound all the lights and everything came on but the truck won't start just silence I could turn the key back in the off position and put the key out but the truck is still on radios on it's like the truck is still in the run position or on position there is a lot of play between off and run but like I said the truck will not start, could be not sure if it's the ignition switch or actuator rod..
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Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
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2002 vw Passat GLX 4motion... Car has been driving fine with no issues. Then out of the blue it just won't start back up. Battery is 6 months old. And wouldn't start with a jump. I think it is a completely different issue. The power windows stopped working but other features do work like stereo power seats interior lights...Main problem is no lights on dash whatsoever. But when key turns from accessories position to starting position nothing happens. No clicking, no resistance between positions it is as if the ignition is just missing..?
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Several weeks ago I was getting an airbag fault. I brought my car in to get the female part of the seatbelt changed out. Less then a week later I started having issues with my ignition! It's not sensing the key being in, and won't start the car. Pushing the key in to start the car nothing happens, the radio doesn't turn on, with the drivers door open it doesn't give the warning that your keys are still in the ignition...it doesn't do anything?!? Now the dealership (that I've had a good relationship with) is trying to sell me an ignition. I'm curious if it's their screw up when changing out the seatbelt? can't afford to put another $300+ dollars into the car!
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Well, this is the second time this has happened. After filling up the car I went to start her and she would crank, but wouldn't start. I waited about 30 second tried again and gave it some gas and it cranked for about 3 or 4 seconds after giving it the gas and it finally started. I've only filled up twice now and this is the second time it has happened. Took the car into the dealership for a check engine light last week and it said there was a large leak. They believe it was the gas cap (because I also had the gas cap light come on).
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2000 B5 Variant V6 4motion / tip .. Randomly experiencing " no crank " when trying to start , sometimes after a few re-tries the dash icons re-appear and motor cranks & fires up. At other times no joy , leave it for 1 or 3 hrs. , re-starts normally . Also tried starting in "N" instead of "P" , and have cleaned battery terminals and load tested the battery ( all good )..
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I get a cold start ignition miss on cyl #2, then goes away (with a little revving), car then runs 100%. No problems during hot re-start. 2005 1.8T AWM. I replaced all four plugs (NGK OEM), all four coils (OEM latest rev), Coolant temp sensor (temp gauge was flaky). No other codes other than Cyl#2 miss and Random Cyl miss. Could I have a leaking (fuel dribbles out) injector on Cyl #2, causing a too-rich misfire when the car is cold started??
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So I went to a local VW in Milwaukee in March and they saw I was eligible for the Ignition Coil Recall. So they replaced that and the first time I started the car after they did that my car wouldn't start. This was the first time I experienced the problem. I told them and they tried and it started right away. However, for the past four months I've experienced this problem where when I try to start the car it takes awhile to get it started. It doesn't click it just keeps making that loud noise of trying to turn over. I went back to the VW twice and they said the ignition coil is not related to this and they wont do anything for me. My check engine lights been on all along too and they say I need a temperature sensor replaced. They don't even know if this will fix my not starting problem. After spending a little time trying to start my car it eventually starts every time. Checked battery- its fine. Not sure what to do here.
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