Okay so my brother has a v6 passat, he started it drove it got home went to go start it later on an Wouldnt start. the battery isn't dead an ignition switch is brand new. I haven't really looked at it yet just wonder what it could be before I go threw it.
View 24 RepliesAs description says no start and crank . when tested battery is good . automatic trans push button starter??
View 2 RepliesI recently had a new coil pack put in my 2008 Santa Fe, about a week ago. Got up for work this morning and it would not turn over. It makes the clicking noise but will not catch. I jump started it and it worked. Got out of work and it wouldn't start again, got a jump start and took it to pep boys where they tested the battery as good. Could it be a shortage somewhere from the previous work done?
View 5 Replies2000 Ford 7.3 E450 120,000 miles...
I have changed the CPS twice
I have checked the resistance of the injectors at the IDM connector with a volt meter and the harness reports back good.
The truck will run with ether for a few seconds
I have changed the fuel filter.
The fuel bowl fills quickly
I have unplugged the ICP.
The truck is showing low voltage on the gauge with a good battery. Around 10v
I have connected my 200amp car starter and I never see over 10v. I plan to check the grounds, but I am at a loss.
Everything is difficult because this is a van body so space is limited. I have also plugged in the block heater for an hour and that hasn't made any difference. Where can I get the best price on an AE scanner.
Here's the story, got in my car yesterday and the AC wasnt working, after driving for about 20 minutes in traffic, the AC came back on, about 5 mins and half a mile later, the engine shut off and wouldn't start up again. Had the car towed to the closest garage (not a VW mechanic). This morning, he tried to start it and it fired right up with no problems. He drove it and let it run and everything seemed fine. He ran diagnostics on it and said the computer didn't detect any problems. Picked up the car, and now the AC is blowing hot air, but the engine seems to be running ok.
View 4 RepliesSo my car just plain won't turn over. The battery is good, however the weird thing is, it's orang even click when I try to turn it over.
View 3 RepliesBattery symbol light appeared on dash, After determining battery was good, I removed alternator and took it to have it bench tested at the parts store. It tested bad so I purchased a rebuilt alternator and had it bench tested before I left the store and it tested good. I installed it and it won't charge the battery. Tried a new battery...same thing. I tested the voltage at the battery and it reads 12.3 and the same with engine running. Engine runs until battery is drained. I removed the alternator and took it to a different store and they bench tested it good also!
View 8 RepliesI have an '02 Ranger 2.3L 40k miles that will not turn over even with a good battery. When the key is inserted and turned, all the dash lights and headlights come on but the engine does not turn over. Could it be....
*Power Control Module?
*Ignition Module?
*Key?
*Whatever the part is called that reads the Key's security code.
*Clutch Switch?
I am trying to avoid getting the run-around at the dealer and be able to drive to work on Monday!
I own a 2003 BMW 5301 with the sports ,premium and 'M' package. Of late the battery drains for no apparent reason. This happened a few times 2 months ago and I had the battery and alternator replaced. This has again started happening. The car starts promptly in the morning but refuses to start in the evening when I am ready to leave work. It has to be jump started. This does not happen everyday and the BMW service folks have not been able to figure this out.
View 2 RepliesI went to start my GS in the garage this morning and nothing happened. I couldn't even open the trunk or turn on any interior lights. I checked the battery with a multi-meter and it shows 5.25V. So for whatever reason, the battery drained itself overnight. I'm positive no lights were left on or doors left open. So this is a total mystery to me.
What might have caused this? Also, how to open the trunk after the battery dies. The car has been great for the first 7k miles and problem free until now.
Just had my first battery boost for my year-old Prius 2K10.
This morning I went to start the car, it didn't open the door for me, then I had all troubles in the world turning the key ... And obviously nothing was opening, no lights, nothing.
I had my car boosted. First time they put the booster, I couldn't start the car (everything showed up but starting the car didn't start the conventional motor - the lights were all on). They unplugged it (everything disappeared yet again) and plugged it back in ... Then I could start my car. Of course, everything was reset: time, trip meters, everything.
That's where I noticed my battery indicator was half-full.
I just recently purchased a 1996 celica GT Hatchback. It had 263K on 235K the timing belt was changed, oil and filter, tire rotation. When I bought the car on the 13 of August it drove and ran well. Drove it home over 45 miles with no issues. Only issue I noticed was that third gear grinded a bit but it's to be expected. Today after it had sat for all that time with the lights on the battery was dead. Jumped the car. cleaned and protected the contacts on the batt. and hooked it all back up. Let it charge for an hour and then drove it to work. On my way to work the engine oil light came on and the car died on my. It has oil and there are no apparent oil leaks. The car is turning over but not starting.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2012 Prius plug in. Initially when fully charged, the recorded range was 12.2 miles. The car has now 40,000 miles. When it hit 25,000 miles , the fully charged battery went from 12.2 to 11.5, 11.0, 10.5 and finally down to 9.5. It makes no sense. My driving pattern has remained the same. No AC or heating use different than before. I took the car several times and I was told that there was nothing wrong. I try charging the car at a different place than my house ( I have a educated outlet ) and I obtained the same results.
View 19 RepliesReception on the FM radio is not very good unless you are tuned to a local station.
View 7 RepliesI am proud that my leather still looks factory, there aren't wrinkles, creases or scuffs in it. How to keep it looking this way when the car gets up there in age?
View 11 RepliesMy 1990 740 will not start. These are the tests I have completed:
Starter and battery are in good condition.
The fuel pump works, it delivers fuel pressure on initial starting.
The plugs are new and gaped correctly.
I am getting a good spark at all plugs.
I have tested for power at the cold start valve. It is connected to the top of the starter and is at 9 volts while starting the engine.
The timing belt is new and is operating correctly. The engine is timed correctly.
I have noticed that there is no fuel getting to the plugs. I pulled one and it is dry.
The code is 3-2-1. Cold Start valve? It is 75 degrees.....the car should start?
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I have a 2001 Suburban (chevy) 5.3 liter Vortec engine, auto trans 4 wheel drive, fully loaded. As of late I come out in the morning to find a dead battery. this happened before and I disconnected the fuse for the dvd player that was installed aftermarket. some times I have to hit my dashboard to get the dash lights to work, now they dont work at all. sometimes the ride control compressor runs for no apparent reason when the car is off. I replaced the battery 3 years ago and it seemed to solve the problem until now. I replaced the battery with an optima red top yesterday and now the electrical system is going haywire. the ABS light is flashing and the service ride control light is on, the fuel gauge is bouncing back and forth from full to empty. What should I do. I am a fair mechanic but electrical is not my forte.
View 3 RepliesMy 93 impreza does not want to start in the morning when it does it will not want to run very good till it warms up.
View 2 RepliesMy Passat alarm went off last night for no apparent reason. Car had been parked for a few days. The engine started whilst the alarm was sounding. The interior lights were flashing and the electric window stayed down and wouldn't go up. Needed to drop it to see to get the car in the barn away from the neighbours house as the windows were frosted over. Disconnected battery and the alarm finally stopped. Tonight I reconnected the battery and it locked me out. I realised later that there's a procedure to go through after reconnecting the battery but foolishly I cut the wires to the alarm, which didn't stop it. It was getting the horses in the barn wound up and I needed to stop it. What caused the initial alarm? ECU fault? It's a '99 V6 TDi.
View 6 RepliesSo I used my 07 F150 4x4 Lariat (5.4 l) yesterday and it ran with no problems. Today, I went to start it to go to work and it would crank over strong and fast but not run. I filled up two days ago and it has been below freezing the last couple of days. What to check as I currently have my wifes explorer for work tonight.
View 14 RepliesIt is a 1991 C1500 2wd, ext cab, short bed 5.7L engine with about 300k miles on it that I have had for a year. Supposedly a different 350 engine and transmission was put in a couple years ago.
This problem has been going on for 2 weeks. I'll start the car up and it runs just fine, no problems. After driving for about 20 minutes, the engine will die while driving, and will not start back up until the next day. I have sat in the car for literally 4 hours patiently waiting for it to start. I'll turn the key and the engine will rotate, but will not start. When someone shows up to give me a jump after the battery gets low, it will not start. I'll go home and go to sleep, and sometime the next day I'll go to my truck, and it will start back up, and I'll drive back home, and I'll make it as long as it takes less than 20 minutes.
It is not just a "morning problem", but a "first time I have started the truck that day" kind of problem. Last week, it happened to me in the mornings. On Saturday, I didn't leave my house until 2pm and the problem happened. Today, I first drove it at 8pm, and the problem happened.
Things I have changed so far (mostly from Autozone):
Starter - burnt it out when it first died 2 weeks ago, now I know not to crank when below 9 volts - lifetime warranty
Spark plugs - no more engine popping or driving with 2 feet - changed last week on Tuesday - AC Delco CR43TS gapped at .035
plug wires - changed all in November, since I noticed one of the old ones was tore - lifetime warranty
Distributor cap and rotor - changed last month when the engine started popping - autozone
Ignition control module- I changed today, I really thought that would fix the problem after speaking with the Autozone guy - lifetime warranty
Ignition Coil - changed last month because of popping
Fuel Filter - changed last Thursday, thinking it was a fuel problem
Here are some of the other symptoms I have been noticing over the last couple months:
Pretty bad gas mileage, I know it is a V8, but it is just as thirsty when I am not carrying anything as when I am pulling a car. A couple months ago, after driving for about 30 minutes or so, the engine would make a "Pfft" noise and would start popping and I would have to drive with 2 feet to keep the engine running.