Passat (B5) :: While Reaching 2000 Rpms Dies Out - Sensor Won't Working Properly
Sep 24, 2009
I'm new to the passat side of vw vortex. i just bought a passat 1.8t. the car seems to have some kind of sensor problem. When i step on the gas to about 2000 rpm the car reaches the 2000 but dies out?? when they scanned the car on a scanner it said it needed a GPS sensor. the sensor doesn't come separate so I bought the entire throttle body which comes with a new sensor. and yet it still does the same thing. what could be the problem??
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So far i haven't been able to find a lot of solid info on this rain sensor. Here's what i know:
My sensor indeed works, if i remove it and move my fingers the wipers will speed up/slow down accordingly. It looks like the window has been replaced and a very "shotty" job was done replacing the sensor/rearview mirror.
There was extra adhesive around the sensor, i removed that and cleaned it up, also cleaned up the gel over the sensor. Reinstalled everything, still cannot get it to work.
If i have just the sensor on the windshield, it semi-works, but when i put the mirror back on, it doesnt work at all.
I know the sensor is good, i get the fastest wiper settings. Relay #192 is good.
My best guess:The sensor is going bad, or the gel isn't making a good enough contact with the windshield allowing it to "detect" the rain hitting it. You can tell the gel isn't in the best of shape and I am pretty sure that's the culprit.
Where to locate a rain sensor? or the Gel, or if any gel can be used, I am going to try and find something i can "substitute" in place of the gel thats on it.
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I have the car stored but when I went to start it last week it was dead. Trickle charged the battery and noticed on the cluster my car said the door was open (it was not). I firmly closed it and it the indicator went off, check later and the light came back on. It's likely hardware and not something I can clear so any tips?
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Cold start. engine starts but wont idle, just dies. rpms drop. Restart same. Must neutral drop to get going keep rpms up until engines shifts then things are fine until next cold start. Cleaned throttle, changed air filter, dry gas, injector cleaner, no warning signal, scans clean. 180k miles.
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I have a 2000 Buick Century. The wiper controls are all goofy. The delay seldom ever works, just goes into slow steady speed most of the time. And they go through several more cycles when wipers are shut off. No doubt some entire multifunction module will have to be replaced.
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I have a 2000 pontiac grand prix (3.8) and when i was driving my car randomly shut off. When i tried to start it again, the car would start, rev a 1000 RPMs then dies a second later. If i pump the gas i can keep it running at around 2000 RPMs until i let my foot off the gas, then it dies After repeated attempts the tow truck was in need. the following day i ran some tests. when starting the car the fuel pressure would stay between 40-50 psi and doesnt drop below that. (excludes fuel pump, filter, etc..)
After running tests the car suddenly started up and continued to run with the rpm bouncing (+/- 100 rpm) i let the car run for 10 minutes and it began running perfectly. This has happened repeatedly in the past 3 days. I have noticed that when letting the car sit while runnig, it will usually die within 2 minutes, however if I am driving. It will sometimes be fine for hours. When attempting to start it by hitting the gas, the car will sometime sputter at 300 RPMs when hitting the gas will do nothing. in some situations i will hit the gas and the rpms will decrease and rise randomly. (letting my foot off the gas, rpms will hesitate before reducing).
When the car dies, i am at times able to get it running after spending 30 min fiddling with it. But half the time it wont start. I have a -P0107 and P0108, codes for high input and output of the MAP sensor. When i unplug the sensor it seems to have minimal effect to the running condition of the car. When i unplug it at times the car will keep a steady rpm while hitting the gas and the car acts no different when i unplug the sensor when the car is running well. I ordered a new MAP sensor which should arrive today so i can see if that is the problem.
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my 2002 Hyundai accent with 1.6 engine and the manual transmission has a problem in that where the axle shaft goes into the transmission is very loose. the problem is in the transmission, not the axel. Is there a bearing in the transmission for this. Or is there something else that could do it.
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I have had an engine code for some time claiming my auxiliary air pump is not working properly. My indy saw no obvious problem, but it could just be shot. He suggested I take it to the dealer. But from my understanding, that pump only works to achieve cleaner combustion when the engine is cold right after a start. I am tempted to continue ignoring it. Would I be making a mistake? I haven't noticed any power or mpg reduction.
I guess I can always take my car in for the under the hood seal recall and have them do a diagnostics too.
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My 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 truck's anti-lock braking system is not working properly. When I slow down for a stop my anti-lock brakes kick in every time for about 1 or 2 seconds. What can I do to stop this from happening.
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My car is a 01 b5.5 1.8t 5 sp manual transmission. it has 170xxx miles on it and for some reason, it won't start. last year I had some trouble with it where it would either start right up, or nothing at all, and it's doing it again, except now it just won't start at all. you turn the key, the battery engages, and all the electronics work (aside from the power windows, and sunroof), but there's not even an effort by the engine. it's like I didn't even turn the key. All last week, it was doing it, but I would just disconnect and reconnect the battery and it was fine. yesterday morning it just stopped trying. What could be the issue? it's really weird....also before this, I've been having a lot of trouble with once the cars been running for about 5 minutes or so, the power windows and sunroof decide to not work. but when I turn the car off and back on their fine. its odd. also, the alarm horn will honk randomly a single time. my electronics are all messed up
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Whenever i leave work, i have to go in reverse to exit the parking lot. I noticed that the brakes are really ....mmm.....I am reversing and I press the brake to the bottom (it bottoms out very quick, not full lenght) and with it pressed at max the car barely stops. I almost hit the car that was parked on the other side..I freaked out cause I was at the bottom with the pedal and the car wasnt really stoping, so I pumped it up and it got harder and went lower to the bottom and it actually stoped and got responsive. I didnt notice that while going ahead from home, going forward. No issues whatsoever in normal driving. Pads are ok. Noticed that it is getting worse on hot days. Now I pump it up a few times before I even take out from park.
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I brought a 99 Passat V6 with 46k miles and the car is now having problems with the driverside power door lock. I hit the remote to unlock the car but the door wont open. After several attempt, im able to open the door.
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2004 2.4L 4cylinder manual transmission. I had a knock sensor code and replaced it. Then I had a code for the TPS and I replaced it with the new part today and after replacement the vehicle idles at 2000 RPM. what should I change?
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I seem to be having a problem with my passenger side mirror and it's reverse function. I have a 2008 Passat Lux. I set the mirror reverse to 'on' in the MFD. I started the car, leave it in park and set up my seats and both mirrors. I press set and then 1 to memorize the positions and hear the chime. I then proceed to put the car into reverse, switch the remote mirror dial to 'R' and position it go down.
The problem I'm having is that the manual says that the passenger mirror will go to it's original set driving position if you go over 9mph (or something like that) or if you move the remote dial to something other then 'R'. But that's not the way it's working. It should ideally go back to the original position when you put the car in to drive (like my old 2002 Passat GLX did), but even when I drive off and go over the stated mph, the mirror doesn't go back to the driving position.
While I'm driving, I then turn the dial off the 'R' position, but it's still looking down....I honestly don't think that I set it incorrectly, but hopefully I am and I don't have to bring it in to service for just that. It's a convenient feature that I want to use. Don't want to curb rash my wheels by my sloppy parking or my wife's....
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I'm having some problems with the power windows and locks. The passenger side window only works when it wants to. The power lock on the same door will not lock unless I push it down. And the lights that are on the switches don't work.
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Having issues with 00 lincoln ls not reaching normal operating temp.
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I have a 2000 excursion 6.8l v10 4x4. While driving on the highway and reaching 80mph, the suv starts making this grinding sound like it's trying to get into gear. The SUV starts to shake. when i drive at a lower speed it goes away. it doesn't make the grinding sound while driving on back roads. What could it be?
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I've got a 2000 passat v6 and lately it started running pretty poorly. Now it takes a good 15-20 minutes just to get it started and idles very low and dies until after awhile it will run fine. I plugged in an obdII scanner and got the codes p1131, p1423, and p1411. I am pretty sure the last 2 codes are just emissions codes I've had ever since i bought the car. I haven't been able to find a solid answer on what this code is. I imagine it has to be something along the lines of a mass airflow sensor or o2 sensor. I'd rather not go throwing all that money at my car if I don't have to yet.
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Replaced fuel pump a couple weeks ago and my car was running just great. Last week, it died on me again and I discovered that I wasn't getting any spark. Removed crank position sensor and installed one from the junkyard. Fired right up and I was able to drive the car for 3 days with no problems. Then it quit again. I figured that it was the part that I got from the junkyard so I went to autozone and shelled out $80.00 for a new one. When I removed the old one, I noticed that there was motor oil on it and I am wondering if engine oil is supposed to keep it cool as there wasn't a lot of oil on it. I don't want my new sensor to quit working because it may be getting too hot and breaking down because of excessive heat.
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A question for you 3.6 owners. I have a 2006 3.6 Sport that I love, but I have this throttle thunking that drives me nuts. What happens is, when I'm going about 25- 30 miles per hour at around 2000 rpms and let of the gas for a second or two, then just lightly punch the pedal, I get this slappy thunky noise that I hear and feel.
I've had it to two different dealers and both told me they can't find anything wrong and it's normal. They acknowledge that they hear and feel it, but again tell me it's normal.
I've driven a lot of cars and never felt this sensation, so to me, it's abnormal. Since I've never driven another 3.6 I have nothing to compare it to and of course both the dealers didn't have a V6 on the lot for me to drive to verify that it is indeed "normal".
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Car runs just fine except I do notice the RPM's moving a bit up while I'm cruising at a steady speed. Almost as if the clutch is slipping. It's an Auto, btw.
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