Passat (B5) :: When Turn On At First It Shakes A Bit And Starts Up As If Going To Shut Off
May 20, 2007
2002 VW Passat 1.8T ... Ever since I got a new MAF sensor installed in my car, I've been having difficulties starting up the car. When I turn the key in the ignition it starts up very weak as if its going to shut off again. After a few seconds its ok but it worries me because when I turn it on at first it shakes a bit and starts up as if its going to shut off.
I began to notice when it wasn't driven for long periods of time (hours) it started up with a lil weakness but not as severe when started up while driving short periods(minutes) Also with the short periods the car has actually shut off a couple of times. It begins to start up very weak and shaky and then just shuts off. Once I get moving the car is Ok its just as its starting up.
Oh yeah I forgot, the gas mileage is horrible! I am at half a tank and I've driven 100 miles. Sounds fishy to me.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I just bought this 97 passat vr6 today off of a friend currently don't run, friend told me that 1 day while driving it just shut off, would not start waited a while fired back up got it home now will not start, so i messed with it today took coil pack off had a little crack fixed it, car started ran maybe 45seconds then shut off and just cranks won't turn over, is this due to the coil pack or maybe crank sensor or knock sensor??
View 2 Replies
I love my Prius c!! I have around 2200 miles on it and I work a combination second and third shift. The car sets all day. The first time that it happened I didn't think anything about it, but it has since happened two other times now. The bad part about it is I get off work at 2 am and the Toyota dealer is not open. The check engine light does not come on and I have had it at the dealer for the past week and they could not duplicate the problem.
It's not water in the gas. I bought it brand new so it is covered under warranty. I feel for the dealership because the check engine light doesn't come on so they have nothing to go by. This problem occurs when it gets down in the low 30's to mid 20's. I use Shell gasoline 87 octane.
View 19 Replies
Driving home tonight my 350 starts getting the shakes, vibrating all over the place and all of the sudden the check vsc, check engine light, skid light, and the yellow ! popped up. The check engine light starts flashing and the car looses all power, no acceleration. I pull over, shut her off wait a few mins and same thing.
View 10 Replies
I'm a new Lexus owner and bought a new 2013 ES300h a month ago. I've noticing that when I start the car everyday, it shakes a little bit (along the body direction) when the engine suddenly starts. You could hear the engine sound clearly as well.
View 9 Replies
2007 5.4 . Starts good , idles all day. As soon as you try to rev it, it stumbles rattles etc. Shut it off, wait a second, restart then Idles fine. I watched live Data and it carries on when the VVT solenoids become active (above 800 rpm).There duty cycle goes to 60-70 percent while revving. I think it Is just one side of the engine. Could be VVT solenoids sticking on? yes ? No?
View 3 Replies
My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?
View 9 Replies
Here is my question.. 94 Z28 38K 6spd. Starts right up and runs well, for about 15-20 minutes then will shut down( like the key was turned off) When this happens I have no signal to either the ignition module or to the injectors.
This car was damaged by an idiot that flooded the dist. with coolant doing a flush. They replaced it with a Advance auto remain. This is when the trouble started. I did replace the I/M with an AC OEM Module, no change, verified all wiring from the computer to the Dist. and I/M. All checked out. I am thinking that the cheap remain unit is my problem and am looking to get the MSD Opti spark system to hopefully fix and to prevent this problem from happening again.
I cannot retrieve codes (94 won't flash CEL codes). Is there any other method of diag I could use to verify my suspicions. Oh, there is not response from the Tech either once the engine dies.
View 2 Replies
when u turn the key it starts to turn over for half a sec then stops. when u stop it sounds like the starter is still spinning. battery is good. it use to do it some times but if she tried a couple times it would start. could it be where the wires go in or the whole thing? could it be somthing else besides the starter?
View 6 Replies
I have a 1999 chevy s10 2.2 L that just shut down while driving, I have replaced crank shaft sensor, ecm, ignition control module, coil packs and still having issues, she will start now but won't stay running, what else it could be, it has been down for almost 5 months.
View 1 Replies
Engine shutdown then starts after a few minutes....
Jeep cherokee 4.8L 2000 .....
View 2 Replies
Got a 1986 Ranger 2.3 EFI 5 speed that I have owned since it was almost new and will never let it go. 290,000 mls and still running strong "except". Noticed the last couple of months that when I start it cold it fires right off. If I start it hot it always takes 3 tries and always goes on the third try except....on occasion it will not start at all. It is random and after I let it cool a bit (about 30 min) it will start. Over the years I have replace many of the fuel system components (fuel tank pump, high press. pump, inline filter and canister filter, fuel press regulator) but wondering what else might be the problem.
I put a pressure tester on it the other day and when I selected the key to start the pump would spool up to build pressure and shut off. The press gauge would register that but the pressure would immediately go back to zero. After start up it would hold a constant 30psi at all rpm,s. Shut the engine off and pressure drops right down to zero. Shouldn't the system hold pressure for at least a while after shut down? Could this be the problem with my sluggish starts? What would be the normal fuel pressure? Can't seem to find it in my Haynes manual. Once running it runs great.
View 6 Replies
My steering wheel vibrates when I stop or when i turn on the AC...
View 8 Replies
i bought a 04 f-550 the motor was blown and replaced with a motor from a 06 truck, before me buying it the truck can be driving along at any speed or last night just idling and will shut off let sit for 30 mins to over night it starts up no problem it doesnt have any codes new to the 6.0 world not sure where to start
View 7 Replies
My 1996 Ford F350 front end shakes like crazy when I turn right at speeds greater than 40 mph. It does not shake when turning left. To stop the shake I slow down past 25 mph and speed back up after I have straightened the truck out. What is going on?
View 1 Replies
My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
View 9 Replies
I'm a MKV guy, but a coworker wants me to glance on the Vortex to take a look to see if I can find any answers to her Passat situation. It shakes (steering wheel, body, everything shakes like you're going up a roller-coaster) while you accelerate. Once you meet the speed you want to go, it stops. If you accelerate, then it will continue shaking.
View 6 Replies
About two months ago when driving at around 100-130 km/h, my steering would shake and also when I would push of the brakes.
Brought my 2013 Passat to the dealership and they balanced my front tires...left the dealership and steering wasn't any better. The following week brought it in again and they balanced the tires in front of my eyes and still nothing was fixed.
Since there is no knocking sound coming from the front end of the car they said they were 100% sure my front discs we're warped. So they replaced my front discs and IT STILL SHAKES.
Should my pads of been replaced at the same time as my discs?? My car is not making any noise at all...just shaky steering and when pressing brakes. I'm willing to bed it's because of my pads.
View 16 Replies
The front end of my car shakes (sometimes, more often than not, but not always) while braking. It doesn't matter if I am braking hard or regular. I do not feel it while accelerating or cruising.
So, my thinking is rotors and pads wearing unevenly, warped, or something along these lines. I plan to pull the rotors off and look at them this evening.
I am just looking at if there are any other opinions or options that I should be checking into to cause this type of thing to happen.
The whole front suspension was replaced a couple months ago, so all should be well there but will look it over while I have the wheels off.
View 8 Replies
I took the car in for a steering vibration/jiggle problem (and a 60K mi service), and the dealer replaced the axles/driveshafts under the powertrain warranty.
It seemed fine when I drove back home, but recently I've been noticing the steering shake again. If I remove my hands from the wheel, it jiggles and pulses to the left and right by itself. Whenever I turn the wheel off center left and right, (while moving; mini-slaloming, I suppose) the wheel resistance pulses back and forth... it isn't creamy smooth. And finally on the freeway, the front end seems to hop... it's rather disconcerting.
Can any of this be cured by the powertrain warranty... or am I looking at some suspension/steering work?
View 2 Replies
2009 f350 6.7 super duty... What is causing my truck to shutter or shake when I turn the ignition off?
View 6 Replies
