Passat (B5) :: Warm Up Catalyst Codes P0421 And P0431
Jul 8, 2010
I just bought a 2002 2.8L Passat 4Motion. On the way home, the check engine light came on. My friend lent me his generic brand diag tool to scan that check engine light. It came up with two codes. The first one was:
P0421
Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The second code was:
P0431
Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
What this means or what I need to do to fix it? Is it a matter of cleaning something or replacing something? If it's something I can figure out, I'll do it on my own. Mistakenly, I erased the code and now the light is gone--thought I was deleting the code from the handheld unit. I can't open my hood.
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I just bought a 2000 VW passat with 63k. I had it for a week and check engine light came on. 30 v engine ....
p0431 /16815 bank 1 below threshold??
p0421/16805 bank 2 below threshold??
Cat? or 02 sensors???
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It says warm up catalyst below threshold (bank 2). Is this just an o2? and is it upstream or downstream if it is? When I scan other cars at work it normally says system is too lean/rich for o2's.
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2003 passat wagon 2.8l v6 with p0421 and p0431...a slight miss as well...
Cold start up is fine and initial driving. After car warms, there is a slight shutter at idle (just occasionally) and upon acceleration with low rpms. (It really feels like a miss) Went to AutoZone and came back with the codes above. I thought it might need a new coil but now I am not really sure. I want my performance back but seriously doubt cats are bad at the same time.
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So the code reads "warm up catalytic converter efficiency below threshold (bank1)" ?? What it could be?
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i know these are both catalyst codes. my car feels like it doesnt have any power past 4,000 rpms and im thinking that its because my cat is blocked and is screwing up everything. if i replace the cat do you think that will work?
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Ok, so I scanned a 2006 Passat 3.6 4mo. I got a fault for the catalyst system, a fault for the AWD controller, and a fault for the Haldex pump. I'm guessing the catalyst code is for the oxygen sensors? What should be my next course of action on the AWD stuff?
============================================
Address 01: Engine Labels: 03H-906-032-BLV.lbl
Part No SW: 03H 997 033 M HW: Hardware No
Component: P3.6-FSI-LEV2 G00 2370
Revision: --H11--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 0000175
[Code] ....
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2001 Prizm/Corolla - CEL is off, no trouble codes, all other monitors are ready, but not the catalytic convertor. No repairs since a new battery mid December. The smog guy (California) says that he can let another monitor go but not the cat; it costs him too many points.
Is this a converter in the early stages of failure (150,000 miles; some oil consumption)? Or is there another possibility?
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we just picked up a 2000 passat wagon and we were out driving it around and the CEL came on, looked up the codes and it came back with P0421. it still runs great. I am just woundering what the problem is. 2.8 v6 with 159,000 mile's.
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My engine doesn't run smoothly (like a misfire) when accelerating at hwy speeds, especially when the outside temp is above 20 degrees... the warmer the temps are, the worse it is.
I have a code P0431 - "warm up cat efficiency below threshold (Bank 2)"
Is it an O2 sensor problem, and if so, which one is it and what is the Hyundai p/n for the sensor? Bank 2 is in the front, correct?
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I have a 1998 Intrigue with over 225,000 miles. It seems to run well for the most part. However....
After I have driven the car for a while and gotten it up to temperature, if I stop and let it cool for a while, when I go to start it up again, it will start easily and then immediately die. Almost like the fuel got cut off. My work around at this time is that if I manually keep the rpms up using the gas pedal it will stay running. If I take my foot off to quick it will still die but if I can do it or 20 to 40 seconds it will stay running.
Other clues:
There are no codes.
If I only drive for a shorter time, when I go to start the engine it will start but it will rev up and down (sometimes for up to ten seconds) before settling down to the proper idle.
When I start the car in the morning, it will start right up but tends to rev above 1200 rpms for about a minute or two before it will settle down.
What has been changed in the past couple of years:
IAC
MAF
EGR
Crankshaft Sensor
Wires (but not plugs)
Also the throttle body was cleaned pretty thoroughly. The guy who did it did think that the throttle body gasket was kinda iffy but intact.
I checked the FPR but no fuel leaked from it even after running the engine for five minutes.
Injectors could be going bad, maybe?? But wouldn't that cause problems other than just at a warm start?
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What this code may mean and what type of expense will I be looking at? Is it something I could fix or does a dealer need to perform this repair?
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Like the title says I'm having an issue the past few days where I can't drive this truck more than a few miles before it starts acting up with rough idle at stoplights/sign and sluggish acceleration until it gets over 1200+rpm.
Cold starts fine, drives good till engine warms up to around 130+ECT then it starts acting up. Stumbles on acceleration for little bit and puts out a little black smoke until it gets moving. No check engine light or codes found.
However a month ago I had the check engine light come on with a P0404 & P0405 and it still started & ran/drove great even towing. If I reset the code it would stay off until I restarted the engine the next time. I replaced the Dorman EGR because it had a lifetime warranty and only had 5,000 miles on the first one. The code did not go away until about two weeks ago the light went off on the dash and has never come back but I had not erased the code? So I'm not sure if this is still lingering issue or what.
I was checking my ScangaugeII when I came back home today while the engine was still idling rough and this what I saw for Numbers:
Low idle in Park
ECT 193
EOT 191
FICM 49.0
IPR 21.4
ICP 582
ICV 0.81
V 13.8
TFC 1.91
VSS(fan speed) 0
(This one doesn't seem right in the past is 500 or more rpm from what I remember?) What am I missing to check over?
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2008 Ford F-250 5.4L VVT. Setting both cam position sensor codes and both VVT PO12 and PO22 Codes. Runs good for a few minutes cold then goes to making noise and retards timing when warms up . Replaced both cam phasers and 1 vct solenoid and camshaft position sensors, changed oil and filter with motorcraft.. Tried unplugging VCT solenoids but still runs bad when warms up. Ran bad when engine was cold or hot before replaced phasers now only when warms up. Is it a oil pressure problem pressure shows good on dash gauge.
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I have sel code of P0421. What are the odds of the downstream sensor being bad vs a bad catalyst converter? The car runs great and I get 19+ mpg in town driving. It is a 2001 Mazda Protege, 2.0L V4 .....
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Would hitting the upper catalytic converter with a rubber mallet free up anything that may be causing the P0421 error and CEL to come on? I need to know if it would do any good or any harm.
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As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
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Last year I posted my CEL problem of P0421 and replaced both upstream and downstream sensors. I passed smog because I was allowed one error message and that message was Cat not ready. I had cleared the CEL light and drove long enough before inspection to reset all but the Cat not ready message and no CEL.
Last Friday I had to clean my throttle body butterfly valve and interior housing and I also had to replace the air inlet hose that connects the air cleaner/MAF sensor to the throttle body because the hose had some splits allowing air in. I disconnected the battery before doing any work.
My new question: Could air entering freely through the splits in the inlet hose, thus bypassing the MAF sensor, and being delivered directly to the throttle body, cause an error message of P0421?
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My car's an 04 Mitsubishi Lancer ES, 4-cyl, 2.0L. So long story short, my check-engine light has been coming up every now and again for the last couple months with the code P0421, which a shop has confirmed I need a new manifold catalytic converter for (they ruled out any problems with O2 sensors).
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I dont drive my passat in the winter and its been in my garage since it started snowing! i go out and start it up every other day or so and when i do start it up there is no warm up period! it goes straight to idle! ive also noticed that my secondary air pump or saic doesnt kick on either, EXCEPT when it goes into idle so i know it works! all summer just fine, now that its sitting in the garage it will not go into warm up stage!
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So, I get in my car yesterday after being away for the weekend (the car has been sitting for 4 days). I get in and crank the AC and it blows warm air. My first thought was "here we go, I need a new AC compressor". I decided to pull into a driveway and I turned off the car, and then turned it on again. When I restarted the car, the AC kicked in like it is supposed to. Cold air as always. Is this a sign of the AC going out?
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