When I put my car into 'd', I notice some vibration coming from the engine. If I'm stopped at a light with my foot on the brake and shift into neutral, the vibration goes away. put it in gear, it vibrates.
View 7 RepliesI have an automatic 2.8 v6 with 115k. when in drive or in gear at a red light the car vibrates, when i put it in neutral you don't feel anything.. what could be causing it?
View 7 RepliesI am experiencing a slight vibration with in drive or reverse but not when it is in neutral. I change the spark plugs and checked the PCV. I have the latest model already and I replace the gasket in the PVC. There is no errors in VAGCOM.. What could be causing that? Mounts???
View 4 RepliesAs outlined in this thread: [URL] .....
I had a recent misfire issue. Unfortunately the dealer has been unable to find the source. Since the original misfire I can feel the car vibrating when I am in drive or reverse and am stopped with the brake applied (ex - waiting at a stop light). It goes away when I drive and when I am in neutral. I realize there is SOME vibration noticeable in gear, possibly because of the way the engine is mounted. However, this seems different.
The tach stays at 750 rpm in idle (it may fluctuate a TINY bit but never goes over 800 at idle) as always. The vibration feels much like a vibration one would feel if a cell phone or pager were left on vibrate. This doesn't seem to be a rough idle where the car is "jittery" or "jerks", and, as mentioned, the rpm doesn't change.
I would think a bad coilpack or plug (plugs changed at 40K, Im now at 45k) would cause a misfire, and a CEL. I've looked into a throttle body cleaning and will do this, but I would think that would cause a rough idle as well. My understanding is that a MAF problem would be similar.
The only thing I can think of is a motor or tranny mount issue, but the car only has 45k miles and this problem was non existent until the misfire. Im almost certain it isn't related to having the car lowered recently.
Wondering what could cause a driveline vibration after a new clutch was put in at 136,000 by a repair shop.. The vibration was not there before, could the halfshafts or the motor mounts ,engine brackets if not installed exactly as before cause this, am bringing back to shop to get this corrected.
View 2 RepliesA coworker has asked me to take a look at their 2013 Camry LE, 48,000 miles. It has a quite annoying vibration at idle and only when in reverse or drive. AC is not running this time of year, but does get worse if the compressor is turned on.
I'd like to think the trans and engine mounts are fine. It does not have any noticeable torque converter shudder. I have cleaned the throttle body, not that dirty, but not much improvement.
I suggested that he try different brands and grades of gas to see if matters improved at all - Shell 89 seems to be a slight improvement over what is normally used (just 87 from Costco, Sunoco, or Hess), but nothing substantial.
Spark plug change, decarbonizing top end?
Spark plugs look about like I'd expect an iridium plug to at these miles - no signs of oil burning, not tons of carbon, etc. I didn't get a real good look at the piston tops.
I have a 2002 chevy Trailblazer that when you put it into drive there is a vibration.It does not do this in park or neutral. I have checked the engine mounts and transmission mount, and they look good. The vehicle has a little over 118,000 miles on it and the engine runs and drives great except for this vibration that i do not know where it id coming from. What may be my problem?
View 1 RepliesSo I drive a 2003 VW Touareg....and the other day while driving, felt this strange vibration when accelerating over 10mph. The dealership said it was an $1800 repair and diagnosed it as the drive shaft.
View 2 RepliesProblem I have been noticing with my 2010 v6 Santa Fe.
I first noticed a vibration that appears to come from the drive train late last winter and only seems to happen on colder mornings. It comes across like I am driving on a rough road. If I am simply rolling without a lot of acceleration there is no vibration, but once I step on the gas and add power the vibration starts and will continue until I let off the gas. It is not an alignment issue as that has already been checked and eliminated as a cause.
Once the vehicle warms up, the problem goes away. This makes it very tough to demonstrate the problem as by the time I drive to the dealer the problem is gone. Guess Ill need to pick a cold day and leave it there overnight so they can see the problem. Had a very similar issue years ago on my old Nissan Pathfinder which was eventually traced to a the 4 wheel hub system.
My car vibrates really bad when stopped and in drive. It does not vibrate in park or neutral. I took the car into my local mechanic who replaced the spark plugs, idle air control valve, throttle body gasket, charged me and it actually runs worse. The mechanic assigned to my car said he couldn't feel it so just replaced what he thought might be causing this vibration. It took me a day to calm down and take the car back and speak to the manager of the department who was amazed at how bad the car vibrated. 2002 Honda Accord 86,000 miles....
View 7 RepliesMy X has had a vibration in the drive train since I bought it. I have been through 3 sets of tires and a new rear end with no significant change.
I recently replaced the u-joints, and the vibration changed. Instead of being pronounced upon deceleration, the vibration was somewhat lessened, and only occurred around 55 mph when the truck was neither accelerating or decelerating; when the throttle and speed were at an equilibrium. It was reduced further when I reduced the air pressure in the tires. It is reduced, but is still there.
I would like to get this fixed before my spring break trip.
Before I take my dads truck to the mechanic. He noticed a "noise" when running highway speeds, which does not occur often for his truck..a beautiful 2005 Eddie Bauer Explorer with the 5.0 V8. I need this checked as I drag a boat to the Fl Keys from NJ in 3 weeks and the truck needs to be 100%. He just replaced the tires as his mechanic told him it was tire whine, which you hear and dont feel. The wheel bearings have been replaced in the last 2 years and they just did ball joints. I drove it up the highway tonight and felt it right at 62 mph..go faster it got more pronounced and you could feel it in the drivers seat...not vibration on the steering wheel..above 85 and it kind of smoothed out, drop below 62 and it goes away..makes no difference if you are in the gas or not..feels like something spinning out of balance....I ran it for 30 minutes at 75 and then pulled into a Lowes parking lot and drove one set of tires up onto a curb so I could fit under the truck..I started at the back and touched everything in the drivetrain for see if anything was hot..the rear differential was warm, the ujoints were not, the transfer case was warm as was the front differential, but none of the u joints or cv joints were warm... 2005 Explorer 100,000k miles...
View 12 RepliesI have a strange vibration that radiates from, i think, the drive line or transmission.
View 1 Replies2001 Jimmy 4wd, 115,000 miles; Recently I noticed a strong vibration when in 4WD, no vibration in 2wd. I found that the rear joint (at the transfer case) of the front drive shaft has play in it. I am assuming that this is the problem. It has the appearance of a CV joint. Is that joint rebuildable or do I need to replace the shaft?
View 1 RepliesI just noticed a vibration in my steering wheel at idle with the transmission in Drive. Seems like it goes away or gets better as the car warms up.
View 14 Replies2011, 2.0T, with 58,000 miles, and everything's perfect, nothing but synthetic oil changes and premium fuel. But, Over the last month, I get a new vibration when I come to a complete stop, and stay in Drive. Once I shift to Neutral, it naturally goes away, and it shifts normally. I've never done anything to the Tranny.
The car has always been like this but this new vibration is bad, I can feel the pulsing in the brake pedal and you can hear it in the engine. What's making me take it to the Dealer is when my wife drove it, she said she noticed it, I said it must be bad.
I had the universal joints replaced on my 1999 Ford Ranger now it vibrates badly starting at 45 mph and when I coast at 65 mph the vibration is very significant. The mechanic does not know what is causing this. I never had this problem before changing the U-Joints and I have 171,000 miles on the truck.
View 4 RepliesI'm the original owner of a 2005 Mariner (3.0L V-6, 114K miles). We live in Central TX, so we are just starting to experience cooler weather (40's - 50's at night, 60's - 70's daytime). At this time of year and through the winter, this Mariner develops an annoying rough idle. It is more like a strong vibration when in Drive or Reverse, not really a miss in the engine. Increasing the idle speed with the accelerator pedal works, and it does get somewhat better as the engine gets to normal operating temp, however if the day is cold (30's or 40's) it doesn't get better.
I've changed the plugs, changed the IAC valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor a couple of times, with no improvement. We almost exclusively use Exxon or Chevron gas, which should have good fuel-injector cleaning additives, so I sort of doubt the injectors are at fault. I've had a local mechanic check to see if any codes exist, but nothing shows up. This has gone on for 2 or 3 years, but it was not like this when the car was newer.
2007 XLS Crew Cab 2wd. 60K miles When going through the 35 to 60 mile per hour range there is a vibration that seems to come from the drive shaft. Let off the gas and it goes away. After 60 mph it seems to be gone. I am thinking Trans support, motor support? One of the postings on this sight made me wonder about the transmission. By the way, I just bought this truck used and love it. Can I run flex fuel in the 4.6L engine?
View 1 RepliesWhats making the vibration & noise, my 2006 Explorer V8 LTD 4X4 is making a weird noise (vibration) & I think its the front drive shaft CV between the transfer case & the front differential........ this happens when I`m moving & at any speed, I have brand new tires.
View 8 RepliesI recently replaced the oil seal on the front differential where the front drive shaft connects to the diff. I believe it is called the pinion oil seal. I had to remove the drive shaft to do the job. Got the oil seal in place and then slipped the u-joint yoke on and hand threaded the retainer nut on to get it started. I did mark the relative position of the drive shaft to the front yoke and the rear yoke. I had previously noted that the retaining nut, before I took it off had about 2.5 threads showing. I had to remove it with an impact wrench.
So...I used the impact wrench to put it back on with about the same number of threads showing. I then reinstalled the little short fronmt drive shaft...the one that comes out of the transfer case. I got the front of it on to the pinion output on the front diff...and then had to reattach it to the transfer case end which, by the way an interesting affair with a sort of metal cone that is attached by 6 8mm fine threaded bolts about 2.5 or 3 inches long. Got all that done with much grunting an groaning - I'm laying on the ground - SO the oil, leak is fixed but now ...
There is a vibration at around 40 mph and higher. like something is out of balance. did i damage the front diff pinion bearing by using an impact wrench? this vibration occurs in 2 wheel drive. as i understand it the front drive shaft doesn't even turn when in 2 wheel drive. my question is does the front diff gears spin when in 2 wheel drive? perhaps the u-joint is bad on the front drive shaft? just a bit baffled. when the speed drops to below 40mph the vibration goes away...