Passat (B5) :: Valves Rattling When Startup On Cold Mornings / Idling Rough
Dec 13, 2006
Ok, I have owned my 02 Passat with the 30V 2.8L V6 since may. I got it with 115K and now its just under 129K I had the timing belt done at Jimmy's in Provo UT at 126K and up until then the engine ran great. Since the belt was replaced <along with the water pump and such> . The car has a tendency to feel like its idling rough, and when you start it up first thing on a cold morning it sounds like the valves are rattling. It does this for a brief second then goes away until the next time you start it in the cold morning. It wont do this if its warm outside, or after you start it previously that day. So far I have replaced the plugs with Bosch Platinum 2 prong plugs, and replaced the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump when it dead on me without warning about 2 months ago.
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My V6 3.2l runs very rough for 1-2 minutes at startup when cold i.e. the first startup of the day, or after it has not been driven for several hours. Is this normal? I understand this might be something to do with the 'anti-knocking' feature. But I only use RON 98. Also I can here something like a tappet sticking when idle all the time. Is this normal, is it just a noisy engine design? The car has only done 1800kms.
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The car idles rough on cold mornings but runs fine. It will stall while idling but starts back easily. I am getting a 1131 and a 1151 code with my scanner along with 0300 and lean bank 1 codes. I started having these problems after I had to remove the upper intake to replace coil packs. I was getting egr code and had an egr port completely block off but cleaned that out and no longer get the egr codes. Spraying carb cleaner around the engine I get a very slight bump in rpm around a couple of the intake ports could that be my problem or should I look deeper?
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I just bought a 2005 passat wagon 4motion 1.8t to haul the dogs and future kid around in. Car has extremely low miles (23k) and is pretty much in perfect condition. Love everything about it, except...
It seems to have a bit of trouble starting on chilly mornings (not cold yet, maybe 60f?). It will start, but it fires up and then seems to get choked up to the point of almost dying sometimes, runs a little rough for a minute or so with a throaty exhaust sound and then it perks up and runs fine. I've noticed it tends to be running at a slightly higher RPM when it's running poorly in those first few minutes, and then it drops to normal.
When we bought the car, I quickly realized the temp gauge wasn't working. It turned out to be the temp sensor (seems to be a common problem) and I hoped it would solve the rough start, but it did not.
What could be causing this? We're starting to approach fall/winter, and if it's doing this now I can only imagine what it's going to do in November. I'd like to get this sorted as soon as possible, even though it's not a show stopper right this minute.
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I have a 1.8 02 Passat. On cold mornings (25 or below) the brakes are extremely hard. When it warms up outside they are fine. No one seems to know the problem.
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I bought a 2007 Mini Cooper, used, at a Ford dealership in August of 2010. For nearly two years I loved this car and didn't have to pay much in the way of maintenance. I bought the car at 55k miles, and now it has 92k. Over the past year, I have noticed a rattling noise at cold startup, and it was especially loud in the winter, and I also noticed that the car consumes oil. As the oil got lower, the rattling got worse, and whenever I topped off the oil the rattling stopped. I brought this up at the MINI dealership (where I get all my repairs on the car) during a routine oil change and they didn't take it seriously.
Well, Tuesday morning on my way to work, there was a sudden loss of power and the engine started missing bad. I was almost to where I work when the car just couldn't hold and idle and stalled. It wouldn't turn over after that and it sounded really "sick". I had the car towed to the dealer, where they told me the timing belt tensioner failed and it allowed the timing belt to jump "a great distance". Apparently, these are "interference" engines (a term I learned because of this incident) so the screwed up timing destroyed the engine. The dealer said it will cost 8,000 to completely replace the engine.
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so with the weather turning cooler i have noticed a new noise. i am at 34,000 miles and run synthetic oil ever 4-5k miles.
I hear a rattling/knocking noise when you start engine, not right away, but like after 15 seconds and it lasts about 30 seconds then seems to go away and is quiet again.
Almost sounds like a lifter is tapping due to not getting oil.
I changed the accessory belts a while ago and it did not first make this noise right after but maybe a few days after which coincided going from 80 degree weather down to 40 degree weather.
Could it be an accessory belt being too tight? If so, why wouldn't it make it on startup? I can see it going away as rubber expands as the warms but I would expect it to make the noise from starting till then. Not 15 seconds into running.
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If my car's been sitting - say monday morning after sitting all weekend in the garage- it runs rough for a little while. Sometimes only for a few seconds, sometimes for a little while after the idle drops. The colder the car is, the longer and worse the condition. It feels like a cylinder isn't firing.
After a particularly cold and wet spell (I had the car outside) it ran so badly it threw a code for one of the cam position sensors and #4 misfire. I replaced both of the sensors. That worked a little.
Since I was due for 80k service and saw a misfire when damp, I replaced the ignition coils along with the spark plugs. That worked a little more. But, it still does it. What else could it be if not ignition? Sticky valve? something else?
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I have a 3.6 4motion and recently after i started it up just now too, it made a diesel like weird sound, and the RPM revved up to like 3500 then went back to idling.
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My 06 Sonata runs very rough at start up when the car is cold. It appears that it is missing on several cylinders. This last for about 15 seconds and then the car runs fine. What could be causing this problem? No check engine light.
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I have a 2011 Sonata SE 2.4 In the last week Ive noticed a noise what sounds like my valves are rattling or maybe even a bad lifter. This only happens when I bring the RPM's up to 2500-3000. Not at idol or normal driving when RPM's are around 2000 or lower. Its getting progressively louder every couple of days. I've ruled out bad gas (I used another station in another city on last fill up ). My oil is changed every 3000-4000 miles with the recommended oil as well.
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We have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
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Just noticed the other day the Passat was idling significantly rougher than usual, most of the time it's smooth as butter but not so much lately. It's not rough like a bad misfire, just not very smooth anymore. This could be indicative of the dreaded oil-pump bolt failure rearing it's ugly head (finally)?
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I've been chasing a problem all summer. Began with crappy batteries dying intermittently. I replaced the batteries, FICM, finally cleaned EGR valve and replaced ICP with pigtail. The problem is still persistent. Basically a rough idle, puff of whit smoke on cold startup, rough running at around 1500 rpms( driving at 50 mph). The ICP was soaked in oil so i was confident replacing it would finally cure my issues. It actually got worse with the rough idle turning to a surging idle and quite rumbly at 50 mph speed. I guess its time to look to injector issues but i thought id check if after replacing icp/ cleaning egr. I also have a slight exhaust leak at turbo out that i can see. The clamp is not seated properly. This after turbo connection to exhaust.
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I have an 08 Passat 2.0T with 44k on it, just did the 40k service around 42k. This past Friday I filled up from almost completely empty, and later that day and ever since the engine has been idling rough and the CEL came on. Gas cap has been checked already.
Should I wait to go to the Stealership until I've burned this tank of gas out? Is there anything else I can do that you can think of?
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FSI engine ... I am getting this ticking sound on a cold startup. I've had the timing belt tensioner fixed under warranty and it went away for a while. However now the ticking is back. To be honest its embarrassing to start my car cold in front of others.
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I just got my first dub, and it is a project car. I have had it serviced and it still idles rough when in drive with foot on the brake but idles normal when in park. a
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Longtime lurker here but I'm having a small problem with the AC in our wagon.... When we are driving (i.e. moving) the car, the ac is working well but when it is just sitting and idling, no cold air.
Freon checks out good but I'm concerned about a possible relay switch or worst case, entire compressor (ugh). Only at 63K miles so a bit irritated.
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Mornings are cooler now in connecticut. I mention that at cold start my Prius C idles pretty rough.
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I haven't started my passat for the winter and I finally did today. It was ruff start/idling and I pretty sure it was misfiring on one of the cylinders. I turned off the car and start it again...same thing, ruff idling like 3 cylinders were running. I waited five 5 mins and started it again, then it was a normal start on all cylinders. But the engine light came on, even though it started properly. I know I have to clear the code to get rid of the engine light. But I want to avoid any future misfiring. So I'm thinking new spark plug/coil overs.
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Only thing I've noticed is the idling is a little rough but the car has 88k on it so that's expected. I haven't checked the cam follower yet and know I'll probably need to change it so that's going to happen in the next week.
I had a code for P000A & P2293 for a few months that would throw a MIL and I would reset it and it would come back after a while. I finally replaced the cam sensor and I didn't see a MIlL for about 6 weeks and one day it came back. Once I scanned the car it showed P000A again. I cleared the code and everything seemed fine until yesterday. I went to start the car and the car wouldn't turn over.
I pulled the key out and tried it again and it worked. More and more I think about it, the car doesn't turn over smoothly over the past few months but maybe I'm just looking for things. I ended up scanning it last night and it had a code for P2293 & P0011. I cleared them both but what could be causing all this and cannot afford to bring the car in to the mechanic. It's out of warranty and I'm broke and X-Mas is around the corner.
2006 Passat 2.0T
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