Passat (B5) :: Vacuum Noise Coming From Airbox
Jun 12, 2009
[URL] .... been home for 2 hrs now, and it still kicks in.
View 6 Replies[URL] .... been home for 2 hrs now, and it still kicks in.
View 6 RepliesI bought this 2003 gti in July, noticed a little smoke coming out near the airbox but the motor had been cleaned recently so I assumed it was whatever they used cleaning it just burning off.
Today, installing an air filter, I see that there is a rubber hose dry rotted with smoke coming from it. I don't know what it goes to or how to replace it. The car drives fine. I do have CEL on for a coolant system fault, but all fluids are level it's not overheating and it doesn't seem to be losing any power.
This hose comes off the top of the air box next to the air intake and goes down towards the front of the engine. I need to know what this hoses called or what the part number is as mine is missing.
View 4 RepliesOk just so I know what the dealer may do to fix it....I have a weird hissing sound coming from the driver side like a vacuum hose is off or something...but when I apply the brakes it goes away...I let go and it comes back...when I shut the car off as well it stays hissing until I hit the brakes again or it just quiets down... What this may be?
View 1 RepliesI have a Passat 1.8t b5.5 with 150hp
Some months ago I chipped it and it drives very good and I also changed the diverter valve to a 710N.
But now it is fast, but sometimes it just feels like it doesn't hold boost as it should. and I hear a very loud psss sound just like a BOV when I shift. Could it be the 710N which has been broken? Or is it a vacuum line to the DV that has a leak?
Whenever I start my 99 passat a really loud vacuum noise is heard. along with the noise the engine idles higher than normal. when the noise goes away after a couple minutes it idles at the normal speed again... what the problem is?
View 3 Repliesbroke down, finally installed dieselgeek SSK. Putting stock airbox back on, I pulled up the tube that clips onto the bottom of the airbox. And the bottom end wasn't attached to anything. Did I pull it out of somewhere? The end has a blue foam "plug". Didn't know if it was a water drainage tube or breather tube or what.
I re-attached it and stuck the bottom down towards the front bumper where I think it pulled out of. Second thing is getting the box seated and 'snapped down' onto the two rubber grommets that hold it in place. I couldn't get them to positively snap back on. Doing something wrong? Can take the box off and re-do it tomorrow as needed. VAG-COM doesn't show any codes and no CEL.
what material is used for the stock airbox? The 90 degree "snorkel" intake tube that is held on by two rivets on my airbox has a tab at one rivet that is cracked. This allows the snorkel to move around and come unsealed from the main airbox. It is "pre-filter" so there is no performance issue, but I would like it to stay in place and look right.
Depending on the material, I was going to shave some slivers from a thicker part of the box and mix it with a solvent to make a paste and apply it to the crack. This will only work if the material "melts" in strong solvents like acetone/MEK. Once it dries, it will be good as new. I have done this many times with ABS and PVC. There is a small gap to fill so simply gluing might not be as strong.
I have no vacuum coming from the engine to the IWE solenoid. This is making my hubs stay locked all the time. where this line from comes from and how to fix this. Which line is the line from the engine, the one with the T in it or the other one?
5.4L V8 2004 New Style
I recently started to notice what sounds like a vacuum cleaner coming from the engine at start up, usually in the morning. The sound continues for about a minute or less then goes away. Haven't noticed it after repeated starts during the course of the day. Car runs fine, no CEL's.
View 4 RepliesSo, my original pump finally died and I replaced it....however upon doing so I realize there is a leak/crack in the lines as it never shuts off (explains why the factory one died).
After a bit of troubleshooting, I've discovered the leak HAS to be down in the passenger fender where the black and grey lines travel over the blower housing and go straight down up against the inner fender wall.
Where doe these come out or connect? I clearly cant get a hand down in there...does the inner fender well have to come out to access this? or is there a junction box/splitter somewhere accessible?
I have a '98 Ford F-150 XLT, 2WD, Short bed, Ext. cab, 4.6L, automatic trans. with 65,000 orig. miles. I bought this truck new. When I have the A/C or heater or just outside air coming in through the dash or floor vents, the air will switch to coming out of the defrosters when I accelerate and then the air will return to it's normal position when I let up on the gas. Is this caused by a bad vacuum check valve and if so where is it located and what does it look like??
View 11 RepliesWe have a 2001 Passat with a 1.8T engine. There is a small vacuum hose at the front right fo the engine attached to the manifold that is cracked where it attaches and leaking. I'm fairly certain that this is causing the MIL light to come on. The clamps that hold the hose on look to be put on with some sort of custom VW tool. I'm going to replace this hose myself. What to use to reattach the new hose?
View 17 Replies2002 Passat 2.8 ATQ. Found a disconnected vacuum on my V6. Where it goes? Its the grey one in the photos below.
View 6 RepliesI recently had a Jasper rebuilt engine installed in my Ford E150. Since than my check engine light keeps coming on and the computer is saying my cas air mix is "lean". The instaler says i need a new fuel pump.Another mechanic says it is more likely a vacuum problem.I know it's possible that the fuel pump is bad bur since this has just started since the install, I don't believe it can be the fuel pump unless it's just one hell of a coincidence.
View 6 RepliesJust wanted to know if its common to see tires on a '06 B6 3.6L with stock 17" wheels, start to hum from scalloping after just 12,500 mi. They sound like a truck with super duty mud tires. These are the stock Michelin HR 17" that came mounted on the car at time of delivery. The car has been to its routine service intervals. No jack rabbiting. Just freeway driving. There's plenty of tread on them, and the noise seems to be coming from all four.
View 2 RepliesA friend of mine today told me a good way to find vaccum leaks with starter fluid. Lightly spray it over the vacuum lines on an idling engine until the idle speeds up. Where you were spraying when it sped up is where the leak is. Be careful as it is very flammable. [IMG] [URL] .....
View 2 RepliesOk, I have 1997 Ford Ranger, 4cyl, manual transmission, and more miles than I'd like to admit to.
Yesterday, I noticed that one of the vacuum lines was coming dangerously close to hitting the serpentine belt on the front of the engine. The clamp that normally holds the vacuum line in place rusted away a decade ago, so I decided to use some velcro ties to attach the line to the positive battery cable. I didn't twist or pull on the cable in any way and the vacuum line isn't applying any force to the cable.
I get in the truck a few hours later, hit the key and I get >click<, but nothing out of the starter. One click when the key is in the start position, nothing more (as opposed to click-click-click).
Not thinking about my repair earlier, I went down to Autozone and had them test the battery - 12.8V and 550CCA, no problem there.
So then, I thought well since the click is coming from the starter relay, maybe that's where the problem is. I read on another forum that sometimes the starter relay can be resurrected temporarily by hitting it with a hammer. Which I did. And it did work! Now the truck is starting up normally every time, but I'd like to replace whatever was bad.
My questions :
1. Did I prove anything by hitting the starter relay with a hammer and then starting the truck?
2. Should I still be looking at the battery cables?
3. Should I stop hitting random parts with a hammer and take this truck down to a real mechanic before I do serious damage?
I have a scraping noise which sounds like it is coming from the front end but only around 10 to 20 mph. It can only be heard when driving down a quiet street, next to a building (mcdonald's drive through) or in my parking garage at work. Always makes the noise, it sounds like it something was scraping on one of the rotors.
Purchased car in August with 26,000 miles from a non VW dealer --- first mistake. Two days after signing papers showed signs of valve body issue. Took it to VW dealer near work and after two days they finally got OK to replace valve body and all is good. About 5K to 6K miles later started hearing the noise. At 36,000 the tranny started shifting hard and having problems up shifting occasionally, would rev up really high and then finally go into gear. Took 3 service visits for the same dealer to be able reproduce it and then they finally figure out they left out 2 liters (their calculation) of fluid when doing the valve body, so it got driven 10,000 miles while 2 liters low. They basically acted like they were doing me a favor by adding the fluid they left out in the first place and said only time will tell if there is any damage.
Took it back to the same dealer again for the scraping noise. Supposedly 3 people drove the car and never heard the noise. CEL came on yesterday and I decided to try a new dealer and have them look into the noise while it was there. Did a ride along with the service writer and tech. Writer is pretty sure he heard the noise and tech wants it back after the holidays to road test more and try driving in some quiet areas.
It has been determined that the car does not make the noise if there is no weight on the front end. I have jacked it up and spun the wheels and first dealer claims they had it on the lift in drive and could not hear. New dealer is thinking bearing noise that is only heard when bearing has weight on the front wheels or something to do with the CV axles or something in the tranny. If it is the tranny well we know who's fault that is.
At work we have a 04 Passat 4motion wagon that has a strange noise coming from behind the dash. The best way I can describe the noise is like computer hard drive loading. It happens continuously even when the radio/cd player is on.
View 1 RepliesI Have 17400 Miles on my Wagon and After Three Weeks in the Shop I am going to pick up my Car next Monday from the Dealer. I Did not have any Warnings Just Whistling Noise which was coming from under the hood.That was weary Loud Noise. I took my car to the dealer and they told it look like a bad Engine belt. After few days they told me my transmission is bad and needs to be Completely Replaced. I Read so many different stories on this Forum about Transmission Problems and i never had any problem till now.
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