Passat (B5) :: Vacuum Control Valve Ticks / Rough Idle While In Drive
Sep 13, 2011
My wife has a stock 03 Passat 1.8t.
1. The car seems to shift too soon from 2nd to 3rd and i can hear the turbo drop pressure. It sounds like a quiet blow off 3 or 4 times when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd.
2. There is a vacuum control valve that sits on top of the air cleaner box and it ticks a lot. it has a electric plug going to it.
3. The car has a rough idle while in drive and sometimes shifts hard. I changed plugs, trans flush and filter change.
I would take the car to a VW dealer but the closest one is about a hour away and my wife needs the car.
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I replaced my EGR valve vacuum check valve, but now started getting sputtering/rough idle. I'm pretty sure the direction of the vacuum check valve is correct, but I tried both ways to be sure and still got the sputtering at idle.
The old vacuum check valve didn't give me the sputter. I only replaced it because it was melted and I'm not sure it was working. I included a photo of it. It's orange and black.
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I Have a 2000 Passat 30 valve v6. I got a low oil pressure message figured I could make it to the store for some oil. Well I turn a corner and heard a valve rattle and the car started to idle rough. I was two quarts low but the noise and the rough idle still exist. In neutral the noise is not noticeable. Driving the noise is only noticeable at high RPM. The car doesn't smoke and otherwise runs fine.
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Swapping a 2004 2.4 motor and trans into my 03 that has a locked up motor. Pulled the motor out of the 2004 yesterday and started tearing into my 2003 today and noticed that the 2004 motor and harness doesn't have the provision for the vacuum control valve mounted in the air cleaner lid like the 2003 has. Since I'll be using the harness and ECM from the 2004 into the 2003, wondering if I can just either use the lid from the 2003 and keep the VCV(hook lines back up) but not have electrical connection going to it. It will basically be pulling the vapors 100% of the time since there is no power going to it and it's a naturally open valve.
Using the harness from the 2004 that I pulled with the engine, there is no way of hooking up to the VCV since the 2004 didn't have one(hence no electrical connector).
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02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
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Car is an automatic 1.8T and has a rough idle when the car is in DRIVE and I am in a full stop. Car also idles rough when in park. Not sure if it is an idle valve stabilizer, or a coilpack? Car does drive well once in motion and does not feel like it lacks power.
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The check engine light came on yesterday. 2004 with 115K. Auto Zone read the codes and they are as follows:
Definition:
Idle Air Control Valve control circuit.
Probable Cause:
Open or short circuit condition.
Poor Electrical Connection
Failed IAC motor
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My 07 2.0T (101k mi.) Passat idles roughly when in the drive position (at a stop light, or sign, etc.), the engine sounds "gruffy", and suffers from a slight loss of power with horrible gas milage. I've had spark plugs and the coil pack replaced two weeks ago, and still can't seem to find the source. There are no misfire codes or any others showing up. From reading many posts here, I've found that a common issue is carbon build up for similar symptoms of my car. Do I need fuel injector cleaner, and or valve stem cleaner, etc? As far as the possibility of cleaning out the intake valve, I only open the hood to add oil, washer fluid, check my oil, and wipe down the engine.
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I just bought this little car. It ticks at an idle and it burns 1/4 qt of oil a month. It doesn't stop ticking when I add oil so Im at a loss.. It isn't a loud tick either. It has 200,000 miles on it but it is in great condition besides this.
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I am working on a 2003 toyota matrix 1zz-fe automatic.
Replaced engine ran good for 20 miles, rough idle as if vacuum leak but no vacuum leaks to be found. If I disconnect and plug the vacuum hose that pulls from the air intake is smooths out and runs good.
Some reading suggests that it is the idle air control any?
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I'm removing my idle control valve to clean it. Everything went well until I'm at the last T40 bolt holding it. I go to insert my T40 bolt it doesn't seem to go in. So I'm like oh I guess it was switched to a smaller T so I put a T30 and it's to loose so I'm like aww cmon. Here are 2 pictures (not the best I know) of the bolt in question.
Is it actually stripped or it's some kind of other bolt? I tried a allen but it seems to slip to. If the bolt is stripped.
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I have a misfire in the 6 cylinder on my 98 Chevy c1500 5.7l 350 v8 2wd. I changed the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, and changed the spider injector i put the spider injector in from another engine I had. After doing all this the code still comes up. The truck runs fine and except it idles slight rough not bad at all and now it says I have a vacuum leak and while I'm driving you can feel the loss of power. I tried all the ways to do it like on YouTube. What is wrong with my truck?
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After its 2.3 liter engine is warmed up, our '87 Ranger has intermittent problems of idle dropping to nearly dying altogether and then overcompensating to recover. Normally, after throttling up to 1500rpm or so, it will idle steady for 15 or 20 seconds then start the process again.
After normal tuneup part replacements (i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filters=there are 2), I spent over $100 on replacing O2, throttle position and EGR sensors but symptoms still occur. Was advised to consider replacing the Mass Air Flow sensor but that part doesn't exist for the '87 model. Was told the equivalent part is "Idle Air Control Valve" at approximately $80.
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My dodge neon started to accelerate by its self and stays accelerated. My brakes can barely stop it. The check engine light is on. And it says it is a pinched solenoid sensor for the emissions. But to my knowledge that won't cause my car to accelerate like crazy and remain accelerated to 40mp and remains there.
I did some research and i keep coming up with IAC valve (Idle Air Control Valve). Not sure if this is the problem. There could be numerous problems. I am replacing IAC valve this week.
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I've been having a problem with my car stalling when I brake. It only seems to happen when it's warm outside and I have been running errands and stop for brief periods of time. After about the third stop the car will stall and I have to keep restarting it and keep my foot on the gas. My mechanic seems to think it's the IAC valve. I'm not convinced based on what I've read.
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What is the location of the idle air control valve by telling me where its at or a picture location?
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I have been getting a buzzing sound under my hood, usually in cold weather that lasts a few seconds, happens after I go about 1-2 miles from my house, did online research and it might be my IAC valve getting internally dirty.
Could replace it for $50.00, some You Tube videos show people cleaning theirs on other brands of cars, can the Ford IAC valve be cleaned up with a little carb cleaner and cotton swabs?
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I have a '03 Civic DX 5 speed. It has 128000 miles on it. I've notice now that it is getting colder, my engine ticks when it is warm - I can hear it at idle and low rpms, but not at higher rpms. It sounds perfect when it's cold, but once it is warm, it has a "tic-a-tic-a-tic-a-tica..." sound. Tom and Ray talked about a Dodge Dakota that made the same sound when the engine was cold (about 8 episodes ago). So what does it mean if it only does it when warm?
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For the past month or so, my 2002 Kia Sedona has been stalling/dying whenever I stop at lights or signs. We've gotten the alternator fixed, gotten a new battery, replaced the ignition coils, but still have the same problem. A friend of mine says that there is probably an issue with the idle air control valve and suggests I replace it. Looking online, it seems like I can possibly just clean it out, but I don't know where to begin. Where exactly is the IAC valve and is replacing/cleaning it a basic DIY job?
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When the idle control valve is replaced does the ECU have to relearn the settings?
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The purge valve keep clicking means it is fail?
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