Passat (B5) :: Vacuum Leak Hissing Center Back Of Engine
Oct 10, 2010
I have just replaced my vacuum lines after find a hole in the hose going the the vacuum reservoir. I have also recently replace the pcv hose. This seems to have created increased vacuum pressure and I am now hearing a hissing coming from the back center part of the engine.
Pulling codes P1411, P1423, P1138
Regarding photo - The area the hissing appears to come from is located in the rectangle area, more or less.
2.8 atq B5 Variant
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How can I find a vacuum leak? I hear hissing from driver side. I used 2 cans of starter spray and on throttle cleaner. No change in rpm.
I'm on the of my Latin. If I pull the throttle short and raise the rpm I hear a loud air soak. But I can't locate it. Can be the egr, lower intake upper intake or fuel interceptor. I begin to hate the car.
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I noticed tonight my 4.6 V-8 Aviator is acting a bit sluggish, not bad, but still noticeable. I'm pretty sure I heard a hissing noise, almost like a vacuum leak. Would that vacuum leak caused by the pcv valve cause sub-par acceleration? I'm going to check the pcv valve in the morning. is there more than one pcv valve.hose on these 4.6 V-8's? I'm asking because I was reading about the pcv hose/valve in these 4.6 V-8's, some people on this forum had vacuum leaks caused by the pcv valve failing, being that it connects to the intake manifold.
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I have a 2000 B5 . It has minor damage front and rear (cosmetic only). Also, the check engine light stays on due to a vacuum leak somewhere between the MAF and the intake manifold. It would need a full paint job at some point after the body work was completed.
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Ok just so I know what the dealer may do to fix it....I have a weird hissing sound coming from the driver side like a vacuum hose is off or something...but when I apply the brakes it goes away...I let go and it comes back...when I shut the car off as well it stays hissing until I hit the brakes again or it just quiets down... What this may be?
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Today I did a oil change (70k). While under the car I notice a small leak from the back side of the engine. When I got home, I had the chance to remove the engine cover to investigate and clean the engine up a bit.
I found that the bolts in the rear of the valve cover had a little puddle of oil around them. I took a T-30 torque bit and was able to get a least a full turn on the rear bolts and about half turn on the middle ones. Fronts were about a quarter turn. Check your valve cover bolts.
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We have a 2001 Passat with a 1.8T engine. There is a small vacuum hose at the front right fo the engine attached to the manifold that is cracked where it attaches and leaking. I'm fairly certain that this is causing the MIL light to come on. The clamps that hold the hose on look to be put on with some sort of custom VW tool. I'm going to replace this hose myself. What to use to reattach the new hose?
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I have a Passat 1.8t b5.5 with 150hp
Some months ago I chipped it and it drives very good and I also changed the diverter valve to a 710N.
But now it is fast, but sometimes it just feels like it doesn't hold boost as it should. and I hear a very loud psss sound just like a BOV when I shift. Could it be the 710N which has been broken? Or is it a vacuum line to the DV that has a leak?
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I have a 2000 1.8L that's great. I have seen a reference to Vacuum leak diagnosis. I have a check engine light on and it has been for a while. the car still runs well and gets fine gas mileage. Coed is 1136. Is there a specific hose I should check?
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Just bought my volvo several days ago. It was throwing check engine codes so I had it scanned and it came down to a vacuum leak. I found the spot where it was leaking which was a little piece to the left and slightly behind the exhaust manifold, slightly behind and beneath the thermostat housing. It went from a hard plastic vacuum line, to a 1.5 inch rubber vacuum line which plugged into a nipple on the exhaust manifold or something behind the manifold. the rubber section had 3 large holes in it, so i replaced it with more rubber vacuum line. same length and same inner diameter.
What I did notice when I replaced it was that it was too large for the plastic line, slid on way too easy, but i had to fight it onto the nipple. The check engine codes went away for 2 days(I drove about 150 miles over that time) but today, the check engine light came back on, went to auto zone, had them scan it, came back with vacuum leak. So when I got home, I popped the hood, sprayed some carb cleaner by the replacement vacuum job I did, and sure enough the idle changed. What the proper replacement hose is for that area?
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Car: 2011 VW GTI MkVI
Mileage: 79k
Configuration: Stock
Warranty/Coverage: None
So I started my car last Monday and the check engine light was on. Didn't think much of it because the car ran fine and there were no immediate symptoms. I was busy with work this week, but noticed some changes in the car's performance over time so I waited till Thursday to have it scanned at AutoZone, which threw the following codes:
P 300 Definition: Random Engine Misfire
Explanation: Lean air/fuel ratio
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
P 302 Definition: Cylinder 2 Misfire
Explanation: Vacuum leak on engine
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
P 303 Definition: Cylinder 3 Misfire
Explanation: Vacuum leak on engine
Probable Cause: Ignition system misfire condition, Fuel injector fault, Engine mechanical condition
Prior to making any purchases I noticed that I started losing some pickup, primarily in lower gears between 2-3k RPM's. Praying that it was somehow just the coils/plugs I bought the R8 pack for both and replaced them this evening. Engine starts up and continues to misfire. I have not had a chance to have it scanned but it would appear it isn't the plugs or coils.
When the plugs were removed, there was an 'oily' substance on the threads, which also seemed like it could have been burnt off fuel or oil pushed up from the cylinder. Also 2 of the plugs seemed looser than the others and didn't feel properly sealed. New R8 install included proper plugs for STOCK application, as I do not run any tuning, and i installed with the appropriate plug grease added lightly to the threads.
I took the car for a spin with the R8 coils/plugs installed to compare it to how the car was doing prior the install. Car misfires and seems fine (relatively) at idle and revving to 2-3k rpm yields NO change. It is almost unable to accelerate up a hill, or go past 30 MPH without the car shaking and any gear higher than 3rd seems not drivable. I feel these are my potential diagnoses before i bring it somewhere and have it looked at.
In Order of Most Likely:
1) Fuel Injectors
2) Air Intake
3) High Pressure Fuel Pump
4) Electronic Leads for the Coils
5) Battery Needs Changed
6) Chain Tensioner Failure
7) Coils and Sparks are all Bad, and I am an idiot
I would prefer to do this work myself and can afford the parts. I just didn't want to be fooling around all month without a mode of transportation to get to and from work.
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I have a 2000 Passat 1.8T. When I start it up in the morning I hear a loud obnoxious noise like a vacuum leak from the engine compartment. It lasts for about 1.5 minutes then runs normally. After about a minute it starts up again and only last for about 7 seconds...ish. When I drive it afterwards, less that a half block or so, the CEL light goes on after 1 beep. Also, at that time I get a messages from the instrument panel that says "Emissions Workshop 1". I've read that it could be a simple damaged vacuum hose to the secondary air pump. Definitely a huge price difference to repair.
This morning is was colder outside than usual and the dash kept beeping and flashing the "Emissions Workshop 1" code intermittently.
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It has been since the 80's that I have attempted to do any work on a vehicle. How do I find a vacuum leak and where is my vacuum canister. I am assuming that it is a vacuum leak for anytime my engine has a load on it the air stops coming out of the dash vents and goes to the defrost vents. I have an 2000 F150 with the large engine with about 112,000 miles.
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I've read a vacuum leak will cause this problem and my wife heard a hissing noise when I applied the brakes on the way home for lunch. So I'm assuming a vacuum leak someplace in the brake system, but I've not found one yet using the carb cleaner approach. The brakes worked on the way home but on the way back to work they hardly work at all - very stiff. Could the vacuum booster be the problem?
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I have a check engine light on the car and in the past it has been bad gas or a vacuum leak. Dealer says on toyota that is not possible.
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1998 Saturn SL2 no crank, I just turned the ignition key it cranked for 3 seconds, then stopped. then no more cranking.
Open the hood saw a little smoke at the center back of the engine. I did not determine where it was coming from. Smoke always worries me, hope the engine isn't seized up.
I also had a trouble moving the transmission selector handle back & forth between park & Neutral trying to crank the engine. My guess is starter, but would like to check easy solutions first.
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I recently had a Jasper rebuilt engine installed in my Ford E150. Since than my check engine light keeps coming on and the computer is saying my cas air mix is "lean". The instaler says i need a new fuel pump.Another mechanic says it is more likely a vacuum problem.I know it's possible that the fuel pump is bad bur since this has just started since the install, I don't believe it can be the fuel pump unless it's just one hell of a coincidence.
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Recently I have been having a strong gas smell coming from my 1997 F150 Supercab 4.6L 2wd. It is not happening all of the time. I have also been hearing what sounds like a vacuum line leak. A loud shrill which varies with the engine rpm. This also does not happen all of the time.
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2002 F250 SD 4X4 5.4L. 4.5 inch pro comp lift tire size 305/75/R16. K&N cold air set up. 208,000kms
I know the truck does horrible on gas but lately is been getting worse, maybe I am getting 350km to a tank. Mixed highway city driving. Sounds like I might have a vacuum leak somewhere but I have no engine light. I've had the truck since last year and put about 10,000km. on it done regular oil changes .. brake maintenance no motor work so far.
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O2 PASSAT 1.8t had crankcase vent recall performed now there is a hissing noise coming from that area that reacts with engine speed. Also I notice that hose that plugs into the intake manifold, from the new gizmo they installed ,COLLAPSES when the engine starts?
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I have an 04 ford explorer, with severe coolant leakage. I am far from an expert but it seems like it's coming from the center engine block, but I can't get much access in to tell. What's going on?
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