2001 Passat 4motion V6. Engine check light on steady, OBDII says P0118, which should be Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input . What does that mean? Everything else seems normal on the car. Coolant temperature seems to warm up and stays normal. If someone says coolant temperature sensor, can I get a diagram showing where it is in the engine compartment?
View 1 RepliesHad a friend scan it because of an engine light on and it came up with P0118. What does it mean?
View 4 RepliesI got a P0118 error code on my car. Looked up some things and most people were saying change coolant temperature sensor. I changed it 2 days ago and have not had a chance to clear the CEL. Its still on now, guy at Autozone would not clear it, said it was against company policy.
Will this turn off automatically once problem corrects itself? I went to Autozone and had them rescan the error, this time another code poped up P0444, EVAP(Evaporative Emission System)Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open. What this can be?
I recently got the solid check engine light for my 2003 VW Jetta 1.8T GLS. I used a bluetooth OBDII dongle and Torque Pro to pull the code P0118. This seems to coincide with my symptoms:
Car idle at start in park stays around 1100RPM then in reverse it drops to 1000RPM then back into park and it stays around 900RPM and keeps that at idle.
If I start the car then immediately reverse out of my driveway then the car has a very rough idle but if I wait around 5 seconds in park idle then reverse out of my driveway it is smooth.
My car dash thermometer stays pretty close to the bottom low then after about 4-5 minutes it shoots up to 190F and stays. Gas mileage is also very poor.
I looked up a tutorial which shows the parts needed and how to replace the sensor : [URL] .....
I removed the engine cover and believe I found the coolant temp sensor in the spot the tutorial shows. My question is if there is anything I should be aware of before attempting to replace this sensor that this tutorial doesn't cover? I took a screenshot of what I believe is the coolant temp sensor.
I went to my local Autozone today to have a code read and get the freeze frame data. I got a code P0118, Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input. I called the dealer but they are out of stock on the sensor. Would it be a problem to use an after market sensor? I'm just concerned about the quality and accuracy of the sensor.
View 5 RepliesEngine light is one for about a month and finally got an ODB II.
Today it reads the error code [b]P0118 which is [b]Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
The coolant sensor reads 45 C when the key is on "on" position at about 2:30 pm this afternoon and I start the engine about 2 mins the temp jumps to 68 C, are these some logical number?
Does it mean the bad temperature sensor and I need to replace it?
The MIL came on and I scanned for codes. First was P0118, Engine Coolant Temp Circuit High Input. Reset it and then received P1296 -Cooling System Malfunction. Temp gauge needle is positioned where it always is.
View 15 Replies2005 4cyl. Vue with 54K... Steady CEL. Runs great. Absolutely no problem accelerating. Don?t hear or feel any misfiring. There is a slight rumbling sound when I first start to drive the car, but to me, the sound doesn't seem come from the engine, but rather underneath the car. It goes away when I continue to drive. Since winter began, I occasionally feel a very slight hesitation during idle?happened once or twice lately.
Again, I only feel justified in mentioning it simply because of the codes that were generated. None of my passengers have made a comment about the idle or the drive. My friend, however, made a remark that occasionally, there is a very very very slight hesitation at the downshift when braking. No crack in gas cap. Great fuel economy. No problems accelerating at all. Never hear or an actual misfire, which I take it, means a problem when accelerating, a jerking, or popping noise.
Took it to a dealer. Codes were 0300, 301, 302, 303, 304?302 generating most often. Dealer recommended new ignition module and plug replacement, but they said it wouldn?t be a guaranteed fix and that it may need EGR replacement (don?t hear knocking though) or be a burnt valve in the cylinder. No suction out tailpipe, no rotten egg smell (signs of burnt valve). What are the chances of burnt valve in a car with 54K anyway?
Also, my maintenance schedule claims that I don?t need new spark plugs until 100K. Is there anything else this could be such as a dirty injector system, fuel filter, fuel pump, or air filter? Again, overall, the car runs GREAT! Should I just wait and see if the misfire becomes more pronounced so when I take it to a mechanic, they won't be looking for a needle in a haystack?
I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
View 5 RepliesCar runs just fine except I do notice the RPM's moving a bit up while I'm cruising at a steady speed. Almost as if the clutch is slipping. It's an Auto, btw.
View 2 RepliesWhile going a steady speed, my speedometer will fluctuate up and down around 3 miles per hour. It will happen at any speed.
View 3 RepliesWanted to query the collective wisdom here: last few days, been getting a strong grinding/vibration rolling along, but only under steady speed or slowing down. Early in any trip its barely noticeable, but after an hour on the highway it can resonate pretty strongly. Gets worse with speed. Goes away completely under acceleration.
Doesn't get better or worse with brake application, stays exactly the same if I pop the tranny into neutral and roll along.
2008 B6 Sedan (trendline in Canada) - 103000 km (roughly 60000 miles)
Couple of possibly related observations: tires are down to their last 1/3 of life (but fairly even wear across all 4), brakes do need attention (bit of a pulse on application), and when I was switching from snows to summers I noticed a small splash of grease on the driver side CV boot - couldn't see a split but I don't think it should have been there.
My thoughts: possibly CV joint going, or really need new rotors...
I mentioned earlier that a rat got at some wires in my truck. I took few things apart and the only visible issue with wires I could find , besides my hid set up, was an engine coolant temperature sensor which threw P0118 code. Can this or those other codes p2111, 2119 will prevent the car from running? It starts? And then after a second or two dies. I'm wondering if prolonged short of the buttery could have caused a burn to some fuses associated with the throttle body control system? I looked at fuse box and can't figure out what solunoid/fuses are associated with the throttle system.
View 3 RepliesMany threads on this subject, however my lights are a little different
When it first happened, on start up, I got all 4, which went away after about 1/4 mile of driving
Next start up I only have the ABS, VSC steady on and the TPS blinking. No "E brake light" lit like before and as others have mentioned.
The dash lights stay on all the time, even when shutting down and re starting. My rear brake lights work normally. Disconnecting the battery for about 30m didn't reset them either.
Lastly, I hooked up my scanner (Actron) and no codes were returned. Have the same symptoms and it still turned out to be the switch??
I just have a situation that I would like some insight into. I have a 2004 T-reg V6 that jerks while at a constant speed (usually around 40-50 mph). It does it both while cruise is engaged and disengaged. You can also hear a rhythmic "clunk"ing. The jerking and clunking stop if you accelerate or decelerate.
BTW the car is still under full aftermarket warranty from the dealership where we bought it so I would want to try to figure out what this is before the warranty ends.
Have a steady very light ticking noise from dash when my truck is moving but it stops when the truck stops. What may be the cause?
1998 Chevy Ext. Cab 1500 Z71 4x4
The MIL came on (steady on, not blinking) about a month ago on a very rainy day. The car felt sluggish going from stop to start and at low speed, but then it was OK at higher speed (>40 mph). I checked the fuel cap, which was tightened appropriately. I went to my mechanic. His computer diagnosed the problem to be malfunctioning of the "throttle position sensor". I had the throttle position sensor replaced. About two weeks after the new sensor was put in, the MIL came on again and went off in two days. Two days later it came on again (steady, not blinking) after I drove to work in a downpour. This time the car had no problem getting from stop to start and at low speed, but could not go over 45 mph. I went to my mechanic again. The computer diagnosis this time was "system too lean". After three dry days when I drove only very short distances, the MIL went off. What is going on? are computerized diagnoses always accurate? why did the MIL seem to be related to wet weather? I bought a Honda Accord because of its reported reliability.
View 19 RepliesOur Egg will occasionally surge at steady speeds - i.e it will jerk fore and aft with no change in accelerator pedal settings. This is an intermittent problem that seems worse when ambient temperatures are low. It isn't yet annoying enough to warrant a trip to the dealer (they seem clueless about this car anyway!).
View 12 RepliesI had new tires put on last week. Two days after the TPMS light came on steady. All tires including the spare had 32 psi in them. That's what is listed on the door sill. I added a little more to 35 psi. Same result. I finally bumped it up to 40 psi. 4 shy of the max. It's been 2 days and no change. Since it's was a couple of days after the change is this a coincidence or is there some reset. I hate to disable it since its my wife's car. Also checked the switch under the dash.
View 5 RepliesFlashing TPMS for 1 minute, then steady = TPMS malfunction. The problem seems to be that the TPMS controller somehow resets itself wrong at some random point and begins looking for 5.5 bar (~88psi) instead of 2.6 bar (~37psi).
Here's the instructions for the fix:
I went into the adaptation I found in the Ross Tech wiki here : [URL] ....
All I did was enter the security access code (01503) then changed the values for each channel to 2.6 which equates to about 38psi. Once all of them were set to 2.6 bar, I saved and exited. Started the car and now I no longer have the TPMS error.
YES, the security code works for the 2010 GTI.
My 07 GS350 has SRS warning light on steady. I had my dash removed to fix dash rattle few months back maybe something was disconnected? I really didn't notice warning light until now since I rarely drive car.
View 5 Replies