Passat (B5) :: Upper Front Control Arm Replacement / Installation?
Apr 10, 2010
I am replacing the driver side up front control arm as the ball joint has gone bad. Got a febi/bilstein arm and all the necessary bolts from ecs. Lifted up the car, front pinch bolt is seized of course so it is currently soaking in pbblaster. The nut came off fine, which I've read doesn't always happen.
On to my question, I loosened up the rear bolt on the control arm, but it has no room to come out? Ive been searching through old threads both on here and passat world for a diy. I found the one on audi world that many people link to. And it seems to skip over this little part.
As of now the only option I can think of is to cut the head off the bolt, and push force the rest of the bolt out. But then to reinstall the bolt would have to go in on the other side? I have a picture to hopefully better illustrate what I am talking about.
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We've got a '96 aerostar (4x4). The bushing and upper control arm seem to need replacement but the parts seem to be obsolete. Any source for these (other than salvage yards)?
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Any hints on a easy way to change these.
After I have the wheel off do I need to disconnect the upper ball joint to remove these. It looks like I can just remove the two nuts on each side and use a jack under the rotor to support the weight. It looks like it might shift back and forth enough to get them out/in.
Will this work?
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I have to replace the upper control arm on my 05 f150 4x4. I've been looking around the site and didn't see anything. Is there directions posted anywhere on the procedure? or if the strut assembly has to be removed? If so do I have to compress the spring first?
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Just today,when replacing the UIM on a naturally aspirated 95 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8 with a Dorman upgraded type from my local auto parts, I ran into an issue. When following specified torquing sequences and specs , be very careful with the 1 long stud (#7), as it will split your new manifold there if you try to torque to 89 in/lbs. Took 1st back for replacement ,and the second new one started to split at the same place. Was using a brand new Craftsman in/lb torque wrench set correctly and following instructions exactly. I've seen a lot of excellent info on this UIM issue with the GM 3.8 ltr 1995-2004 years, but never this issue with the replacement ones. If I have to change this again will definitely go with the aluminum one.
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On a level-of-difficulty-scale from 1 to 10. 10 being the most difficult. How difficult is it to change the upper control arm and the lower ball joint?
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I'm in the process of changing the wheel bearing and took the brakes, disconnected the sway bar, and other large bolt but can't get the upper control arm disconnected because once the nut gets to a certain point, the ball joint starts spinning with it. Tried holding the bolt at the bottom with vice grips and it still turns. I'm thinking I might have to take off the whole A arm if I can't get this nut off.
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I'm trying to remove the upper control arm on a 2004 F-150 2WD. I took the wheel off, and it looks like I can't get the bolts off that attach to the frame off without taking out the shock and "coil over"? Is this the case, or is there another way to do this?
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I have a 1993 Toyota Celica GT I removed the strut tower to replace the upper tower mount and replaced the wheel bearing. my problem is that when i torque the axle nut tight the tire can be moved by pushing it up or down.
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2001 F-150 4x4 5.4L. I am going to replace the upper control arms this weekend. I noticed that there are regular bolts with no cam washer installed. I have read conflicting info on whether the cam washer set up is needed. Do I have to install these or can I just put the old bolts back in just like they are. When I replaced the uppers on my 1997 T-Bird I put in new bolts but there was no mention of a cam washer setup for it anywhere that I saw. What would be the problems if I just reinstalled the old bolts. Right now the truck drives straight as an arrow but the lower ball joint on the driver side is shot so I will be replacing it also.
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I have a 2001 Elantra GLS. After reading info on the forums it sounds like my crunching/clunking noise when I go over bumps would most likely be the upper control arm. Is this the only control arm?
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I have recently replaced both tie rod ends and found out when I took my truck for an alignment the mechanic stated that I had bad driver side ball joints (upper & lower) I confirmed this with SEARS and they stated that it was all the ball joints upper & lowers! the Haynes repair manual (1999-2010) states "ball joints on 1999 through 2013 2WD models were not replaceable".
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One of my Parking lights, the orange ones in the corner of the headlights burnt out, I want to get rid of the other orange one and just put clear lights in there, i dont like the look of the orange. How to access those lights so i can change them out??
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Need to replace the front parking light? Can't figure out how to get to it or how it comes out.
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What is the procedure to replace the front DS turn signal? Is there an easy way to replace it or is it just a matter of reaching carefully. This is for the turn signal in the front headlight assembly.
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I m about to replace the front wheel bearing of my 2000 1.8 t I already rent the tool (hub and bearing puller and installer) from german auto parts.com but looking for pics of step by step of the process before starting the job.
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I have a 2000 Passat and brought it to a local shop to have the left front wheel bearing changed. He took the car apart and said he couldnt do it because the anti lock brake wire ran threw the control arm and had no plug on it and was wired right to the dash board. Should i find a different place to take it to or is it a dealer required fix. Can i buy the bearing myself and change it?
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I got a crack in my windshield this weekend. The crack is about 15" long and everyone says it needs to be replaced. So far all estimates have come in around $1100 - $1700 to install a new windshield. Does this sound about right?
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I have a 2001 b5.5 passat sedan i recently picked up for cheap. The car was on cut springs and blown struts. I just installed JOM blue Line coilovers on it to solve the suspension problem. While i was doing this i realized both the cv boots were torn and needed replacing. I replaced the axles. The passat is a 1.8t with tip tronic trans. After i did the axles when i put the car in drive and let it idle i get a fairly noticeable vibration through out the car. It does not happen while driving or while in neutral. This did not happen before i did the axles. It doesnt make much sense to me?
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Replacing front wheel bearings on my 99 Passat? There is a gentle 'wahwahwah' grumble at speeds over 40mph. The car has done 130,000 miles and is otherwise in nice condition.
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Do I need to remove the rear bumper to replace the rear bumper reflector?
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