Passat (B5) :: Tires Rotated - Traction Light Goes Off - Shimmy In The Brake Pedal Under Braking
Jun 13, 2007
I just got my car back from discount tire. Every time I accelerate above about 45 mph the traction light goes off Also, There is a shimmy in the brake pedal under braking.
NOW: there is ONE tire that is SMALLER than the rest that they put on or something. It is a different tire, same company, but obviously a bit smaller. Now, they told me it would be fine, despite my better judgement that It would preform weird as well as look slightly gimp. the tire went from driver rear to passenger front, and I'm willing to bet that is the cause of both problems. What should I do?
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The tire pressure warning light came on about a week after the tires were rotated (and I assume filled) at the dealer. My son in law checked all 4 tires and they were above 30. Didn't want to fill anymore since I have the green caps. Light is still on. Is it safe to drive on highway at 75/80 mph? How does this light determine low pressure. Why is it still on? No other problem so hate to go to dealer for this but would like the light to go out.
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Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
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I don't have my manual in front of me and I was looking for a quick answer to this question. How often should the Touareg's tires be rotated according to VW's recommendations?
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08 XLT 4x4 Had a rotor slid freeze up last fall and eat a rotor. 39000 miles. Took apart and cleaned up and lubed, new pads and rotors both fronts. Now have pulsating pedal at 48000. Do the rear might need attention now or still the front? I never use the E brake.
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I had them rotated the other week and at 70 I have a vibration. Dealer does not have the right machine. but my local tire shop has always done a great job!!!
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I have a '99 E350 van that I am feeling a light anti-lock brake pulse in the pedal when I am rolling to a slow stop under light braking. Braking doesn't seem to be affected, but it doesn't feel right. I tried locking up the brakes and didn't feel any anti-lock pulse...seems backwards.
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When I had this set of tires rotated and balanced for the first time I picked up a vibration. I can feel it through the steering wheel and the floor, it starts about 40 or 45 mph. It is not severe but it is annoying. The tires are Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus size 215/45-17, they had about 9K miles on them when I had them rotated. Before they were rotated they were as smooth as glass.
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I had no clue about this wheel lock feature. People still steal tires?
Anyway, I need to order that one item that will allow the tire people to rotate my tires. What exactly is this part called?
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I have a 2011 ES 350, 30k miles. Tires were rotated at 23k. Now I am hearing a whooping noise in the front end. Took car back to garage and told them about the noise. They balanced the tires- still having that noise and it gets loader when speed increases.
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I recently went to a local chain to have my oil changed and tires rotated. Later that evening when I went to turn on my headlights for the first time since the oil change neither one was working. When I brought back the car the next day to see if they could look at this to see if anything reset accidentally I was told that both lights were burned out and it was a coincidence. It seems unlikely that both headlights would go out at once (high beams were OK) and that it would have happened right after the oil change. I couldn't say what would have caused this but wanted other opinions on if it was likely related to the oil change.
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My steering wheel on my 2012 Avalon Limited began shaking above 65 mph immediately after the tires were rotated for the first time. The balance was checked, and two new tires were installed. That did not fix the problem. The car also seems to pull to the right. Wondering if the problem are the tires, or an alignment issue.
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Just rotated my tires this weekend and noticed today that the steering wheel has a vibration in it at highway speeds, 65-70mph. It did not do this at all before I rotated the tires, why it's doing it now? Tires are fairly new and Bridgestones H/Ts.
I know my rotors are warped and need replaced but the vibration I'm referring to is when I am not braking.
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I bought my 2011 Sonata with 27k miles on it. After a while (few months) I noticed on occasion when turning I would get a screeching/squeal noise from the front tires. Only happened during certain turns (U turns I noticed where higher chance of happening).
I rotated the tires (Front to the rear, Rear to the front), and then there was a loud humming noise. I got it checked with the dealer and they confirmed tires were cupping (uneven treadwear right?) . So now its been 10,000 miles and the noise is the same. I just got an alignment done and there has been not much of a change.
So, other than getting new tires, should I get the tires balanced? Or just rotate them once more so that the rear return to the front again? Will I have to get another alignment done?
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I took my 2007 (manual!) Honda Civic LX to a local car shop last Friday because it wanted its oil change, oil filter change, tire rotation, and spark plugs etc. checked. When I got the car back, I drove it around for a little while and noticed a noise that is periodic and speed-dependent -- as in, the frequency goes up when I am going faster and slows down when I am going slower.
I've since checked the air pressure and while one tire was a little low, the tires are all at the right pressure now, and the noise hasn't gone away. I also feel like there is more vibration in the steering wheel now than there used to be. I think the sound is coming from the front driver's side, but I'm not sure about that.
Obviously I should take it to the car shop and give the guys the what for, right? But what should I be asking them about? What could have happened? It also happens to be the case that on the 4th of July, someone backed into the front of my car with a moving truck and a couple of parts on the front of the car needed to be replaced. But I had
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I have just replaced the front pads and discs on my car. a 2000 115 tdi sport. Now I have a problem - the brake light is not always going out when you take your foot off the pedal. And it feels like the brakes are binding, but when you jack it up the wheels are all running freely ...
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I just drove my Prius through 8-10 inches of heavy wet snow. The car did amazingly well. At times my traction control light was on when trying to get up an incline until the car got going. Then when I got home I stopped in my driveway for the garage door to open and started into the garage. The car was stuck, but then the light came on and the car climbed the driveway in about 10-15 seconds and made it in the garage. I then noticed a smell like burning tires. Maybe it was the tires from spinning. I hope that I didn't hurt my transmission or another component. Does the Prius protect itself if it is stuck and the traction control light is on from overheating something? I think I recall that the 2nd generation Prius would not allow for wheel spin to protect the traction battery.
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I slammed on my brakes the other day because a car pulled out in front of me. When i let off the brakes i noticed the car did not move for a good 1-2 seconds and a traction control light was flashing. I didn't think much of it until i was sitting at a light and decided to see what happens if i press my brake pedals in hard again... the traction light turns on again and the car doesn't move when brakes are disengaged for a few seconds. Is this normal? It feels like my hill assist on the BMW. Why the traction light turns on? My car is a 2010 Prius III with 5k miles.
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A friend brought me a car with the issue that the brake pedal sinks to the floor when braking. She said it was never low on fluid so I replaced the master cylinder and bled all of the lines with a friend pumping the pedal. The pedal would still sink to the floor. I tried vacuum bleeding the brakes and found that the front left consistently had large bubbles.
I Teflon taped the fitting on the calliper and the bleed screw which improved the problem but didn't fix it. I then replaced the calliper. The front left calliper still won't bleed and the brake pedal still goes to the floor. When I bleed it the regular way, the fluid comes out of the bleeder like it bled nicely. Neither of the rubber hoses that connect to the calliper have any visible damage. I had a friend pump the brakes while looking at the hoses and their is no bulge or swelling in them. Could the ABS need to be bled?
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I have a santa fe 2002 diesel the abs lights stop on all the time the brake pedal has a bad judder on it when braking. I have taken the fuses out and it will still judder. The only thing that is when i disconnect each sensor the red brake light stops on but not with the osf front sensor. All the rings look ok but when i had a problem with 1 of them the abs light would go out then return on...
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2014 SEL V6. My mother bought a Passat last year at my urging and has just told me about an issue she's had since she brought it home. Her throttle is sticky in the very beginning of its travel. Meaning that whenever she starts off, she has to give it a decent shove to get into the 98% of pedal travel that people usually use. Usually this means that she's chirping he tires every time she makes a turn from a stoplight, and gets her head thrown back taking off in a straight line.
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