Passat (B5) :: Throttles While Stopping / Start Up
Dec 12, 2011
So I've got a strange/scary thing going on, not sure if it's temperature related or not. Driving my wagon in automatic mode, the throttle will sometimes *just stop working*. 4 or 5 times this has happened right after taking off from a stop (turning left at a light, leaving a stop sign, etc.): my foot's on the gas, but the car will just slow down, tach dropping toward idle. Let me tell you, I have never slammed my foot down on the gas pedal so hard before in my life.. and nothing happens.
Then suddenly, WHAM, the tach runs up and away I go. I haven't scientifically figured the damn problem out, but it might (?) be only happening within 15 minutes of starting from cold (overnight). Haven't been able to determine if it happens after a couple hours of tooling around town (I haven't been driving much the last couple weeks).
Another quirk is that sometimes leaving a stop sign it will move, but slowly (when compared to my foot position on the pedal), with the revs high in 1st but almost like it's slipping. Feels like maybe not all four wheels are engaged. Then suddenly everything wakes up and I'm off like a bat outta hell. Sometimes runs all the way to redline in 1st before shifting, even when I don't have my foot through the firewall.
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First my check engine light came on and is still on now my alarm keeps going off and not stopping. The alarm even went on while i was driving. Whats causing this to happen???
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So far I have only experienced this once (today). I was on the freeway which ends and becomes a State Route. When I stopped for a traffic light the idle became rough. I put the car in neutral and gave it a little gas and it seemed fine. It has not done that again at this time. No CEL or anything came on. What do you think?
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Recently my car has stalled on me when I've stopped at stop lights. The radio stays on, but I think it's just the engine that turns off. I have to turn the car compleltly off and then on again. It sometimes takes a few tries, but it does turn on again and I am able to drive it again. I have taken it to a repair shop twice now and both times they've said they cant replicate the problem and cant seem to figure out whats wrong. They have scanned my car and I was told they didnt get any codes telling them of the problem.
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I have a starting issue with our older Explorer.
Vehicle: 1998 4.0 SOHC
Owned for 6+ years, no major issues to date.
225K miles, well maintained.
Problem: Vehicle will start fine on first start of day, or any other time after being parked for enough time to cool off like it is in the AM. Example, drove for about an hour and stopped for a hamburger. In restaurant for about 15-20 minutes go outside to vehicle, no start. let sit for about another 20 or so minutes and starts fine. Runs good, NO code given, ever. Has happened multiple times. Fuel is present in fuel rail as I poked Schrader valve in fuel rail and gas is present and with very good pressure. My guess seeing NO check engine light ever is something ECM or ignition coil related?
Haven't tried to troubleshoot yet. Any initial common problem concerning no start with warm engine?
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Have driven Hondas for 25+ years and used to their appliance like Smoothness and reliability. Yesterday bought my first VW ever, the last 2010 Passat ( a sedan) in my dealer's inventory.
I immediately noticed that while coming to a stop for the final few seconds there is a jerkiness and shudder that I feel. Feels like the way a manual transmission car feels when you forgot to depress the clutch and you're stopping. Once I come to a complete stop all is fine again.
Is it "normal" for the passat or vw in general?
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I was driving the car and suddenly started to vibrate and to give signs of stopping. The car doesn't have power now. I stopped the engine then start it. The idle rpm was instable and the engine stopped by himself. After i tryed harder to start, the engine started and the message Engine Fault Workshop and the sparking plug sensor apeared blinking.With that message and sensor notification on screen the car sounds normal and the rpm is idling..but after a restart the messages disappeared and the engine was again going wrong.
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This is what is happening:
1. When you start driving the car it accelerates fine until it gets to second gear where it keeps accelerating, then you feel a jolt, the odometer jumps 1-2 notches, and it switches into third.
2. When stopping it downshifts fine until second gear getting ready to switch into first to come to a complete stop and again it "jolts"
3. (Sometimes happens) When driving ~25 mph or ~40 mph while continuously accelerating you let-off the gas and then reapply, it stops accelerating and kind of "sputters" and can not accelerate anymore, I have to stop put it in Park and then again put it in Drive and only after that it works fine.
I have taken it to the VW Service and the mechanic could not replicate what I said was happening so I drove with him in the car and replicated the first two steps 3 out of 6 times. He told me that they checked the codes and could not find anything malfunctioning. I told him that clearly something was wrong with the transmission and I wanted something to be done. He agreed that he also felt what I was talking about but it was not enough to come to a conclusion to what was wrong. I mentioned that I wanted this to be written down in the service report, because if something happens they will be aware.
The problem now is that the "jolting" and the stalling-out has gotten worse since the visit to the service 1 month ago. What might be happening and what I need them to repair/change on my car. I am planning on making a visit sometime this week. The first two steps happen when the car is cold or when I switch over form Tip-Tronic to automatic. But that is not always the case.
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So, got the 20 K miles service done last month on my 2012 Passat.
Recently I noticed that when I press the brake pedal to slow down, it seems to work fine. The brakes "catch" the rotors, there is a clear "grip" to the rotors and the car responds pretty fast to start slowing down. However, when I did a brake check to stop the car, I notice that when I press the brakes hard, they don't "grip" the rotors as hard as I would expect past that initial grip instance. Seems like their grip is not "catching" the rotors. As a comparison, my other car (6-cy, disc brakes front and rear) does maintain that grip. Am I missing something in this? Is the behaviour of the Passat's brakes expected?
How often does VW do break flushed based on their service schedule?
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Today on the way to work at a red light I'm stopped light turns green I try and go and no power in fact when I hit the gas my rpms go lower first thing I think is I fried the clutch but it idles fine an when I hit the gas rpms go down and the at wants to bog out. Then after I get it towed home I try and crank it over it doesn't start. My thinking then is fuel. So I go to check the fuses everything is fine when I try and crank the car to start it you can hear the fuel pump kick on and then when I go to turn it over I only have crank so could it be the fuel line is clogged? I thought that if it was an injector it would start and just smoke bad. It's a 1.8t Aeb engine and yes I change my oil every 3 k miles and do all the work myself.
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So I have 69,500 miles on my car. I leave it parked on a small hill for 3 days and when I turn it on after 3 days of sitting it sounds like it is going to stall and the check engine light blinks. I roll it to the bottom of the hill and turn it on and the light doesn't blink but just stays on. On top of this, randomly but always after stopping when driving i smell a really strong burning oil smell. The smell is so bad i have to open the windows.
I don't think it has anything to do with the CEL but it has been happening for some time. It only smells after you have been driving (mostly Highway) and then stop. It wont happened if your in traffic or driving around town, you have to be on the highway then get off and stop and you smell it. It can happen once a month or twice a week, it is completely random.
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I bought this Escape used in Dec '10 with 29,000 miles. It is now at 36,500 (Sept '11). I have had it in for service 3 times in 3 months.
The passenger airbag seems faulty- if the seat is empty, the light will flip off (meaning airbag is on). If I sit in it, the light will go on and off intermittently. I'm 135 lbs- and the serviceman saw it happen as we drove around- yet when the car was given back to me after a week and a half, they stated they could not duplicate the problem and that no issues were found.
Now, I'm having starting issues. Once over Labor day weekend- I had driven my car, parked it, and went to get in it 5 minutes later- no start. No cranking, no clicking. All lights/radion come on. After sitting for about 20 minutes and attempting to start every couple minutes, it roared to life and was fine. Took in for service, and again- no codes, could not duplicate, so they sent it home.
Car sat for a week (I'm a student- it doesn't get much action except on weekends). Then yesterday, I drove it about 15 minutes, parked, came back 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start again. Again, after about 20 minutes of sitting and attempting to start, it started.
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I have a 2002 Honda Accord SE Sedan. 119K miles. The transmission slips sometimes especially when I start after stopping at a red light. My mechanic recommended not to change the transmission fluid as the transmission can go down and might need a new transmission. He also told me that 2002 Honda Accords are known for this issue.
So my question: Is my mechanic right? Or should I go ahead and flush the transmission fluid and replace it?
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So my Passat won't start. Last night I went to turn it on, and half way through the start up sequence it quit. Now when I turn the key I get nothing. There's power to the headlights and everything, and the mechanic I've talked to said it's probably the battery anyways. When I do turn the key, you can hear the clicking under the hood, so I'm semi-optimistic that it's not the starter.
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I just Installed a RTX HID Kit for my Passat 2014. I followed this guide.
The Lights work perfectly when the Engine is off but when I start the car, the lights start flashing like its missing the 12V required to run. Did I miss something? Do I need to Install a resistance?
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So I picked up a 2002 passat 1.8T autotragic from a guy because a shop said it had a bad computer. After bringing it home and talking to some local volkswagen mechanics they said it couldn't be the computer because the car would still crank. I jumped the trigger wires and the car starts right up no problems and runs perfect for sitting for a year. My question is what could be the problem? I changed the ignition switch and replaced the 40amp fuse by the computer. I am trying to flip the car so I am hoping its not a big problem and have to part the car out.
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I've driven 06 Azera 3.8 80,000 miles now.
When idling or stopping at red light, the rpm slightly and continuously goes up and down. (+/- 50 rpm)
Which part is a problem and how to fix it?
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07 saturn vue, 4cyl motor, auto trans. torque conv occasionally will not unlock so motor will stall at stop. a used trans is quite cheap for these rigs. and they come with the TC. would a new TC fix this issue? or is it more of an issue of worn seals inside trans? i would hate to spend 200 on new TC and not touch trans when i can get a lower mile used unit.
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I just picked up my new GTI and drove it 300 miles home. I did notice one potential issue that will need service attention. There is a mild but very noticeable shudder when slowing to a stop (gently slowing to less than 5mph). It is also mildly noticeable when taking off slowly but much less so.
The best description I can come up with is : Shudder that occurs when you slow to a near stop in a manual transmission car without pressing in the clutch? That little shudder that reminds you to put the clutch in before you stall. That is what this feels like. It doesn't shake the whole car but it is very noticeable.
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I have a 1999 Mazda 626 with a 157k miles. The problem I'm having is after driving for a while and stopping my car it doesn't restart either dies out really quickly or won't catch. I had it towed home twice each time after it sits overnight it restarts with no problem, but does the same thing after driving for a while.
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Missing the point about why to turn off the AC before engine....it is to evaporate the condensate in the interior air handling system so as to dry it out and prevent mold and mildew in the evaporator and duct work area!!!My wife does not like this either, but, it would be very difficult to clean out and kill a moldy mess in the evaporator and duct work. Part of this is also running the fan on a high setting for several minutes or more after killing the A/C compressor to blow things dry!
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