Passat (B5) :: Symptoms Of Clutch Slip?
Jan 31, 2011
What are the symptoms of the clutch slip.
View 2 RepliesWhat are the symptoms of the clutch slip.
View 2 RepliesI have a quick question about the control arms on the B5. I have an 01 Passat GLX 4motion, the was previously my mothers. She had the upper arms (iirc) replaced around 60k but not all of them. I got the car with 64k from her, and it now has 92k of mostly highway miles. I have a few clunks from the suspension but nothing crazy, and considering the shocks and dampers are probably shot i cant seem to tell if its the arms or the shocks.
View 1 RepliesI've been getting a really "rough" gear shift between first and second, almost like someone hit my car from behind. All other gears are super smooth though. No error's on VAG COM or anything. I'm just a bit confused if an error's are thrown or is it something the dealer needs to identify?
View 5 RepliesSo long story short, my clutch is not disengaging all of the way, but only sometimes.... I have replaced clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, new stainless steel clutch line and new clutch master cylinder all within this month. The same issue has been occurring prior to replacing all of this and also after replacing all of this. I've bled the system (with a power bleeder) more times than you can count on both of your hands so there is no way there is air in the system.
More details : The clutch doesn't slip in any gear. Stop and go traffic in first gear is really the only time I notice it not disengaging. I can't pull it out of 1st gear when it happens so I have to shut the car off to get it out of first gear. When it's stuck in first gear with the clutch pushed in (on a flat surface) and I let off of the brake the car creeps forward. Not at full speed like if I were to release the clutch pedal all the way but its still semi engaged enough to make the car move.
Replacing everything theoretically should have fixed all issues, but it hasn't. The only thing I didnt replace was this piece of the factory clutch line.
Tomorrow I am going to take the stainless steel clutch line and run it straight to the clutch master cylinder bypassing that weird silver box and hope that fixes it. As a side question what does that silver box do anyways?
Looks like my clutch is starting to slip a bit at ~50K, after a good bit of HPDE track usage over the last few years, and maybe some poor shifting by me. Anyway, want to replace with a stronger aftermarket unit that can stand up to track events, and am planning to go with a lightweight flywheel as well.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 gti with stage 2 tune, and mk6 clutch starting to slip? i have 30,000 miles, i am starting to do my research on the clutches. I am also looking in to just replacing the clutch disk, and i am wondering it just the clutch disk will hold up?
View 24 RepliesI have a 2012 GTi. I just got the stage 2 unitronic flash on my car and now my clutch slips bad. I know i will need to replace my clutch. It was starting to slip before the tune and now it just cant handle it. The shop I went to recommended a South Bend Stage 2 Clutch kit (single mass). Its a daily driver and want something that will last and hold up to 325ftlbs of torque. I do think i want to go with the single mass clutch though.
View 13 RepliesNoticed recently that my clutch is starting to slip. It only seems to happen when I'm cruising in 6th and floor it. When the boost spikes, the revs will shoot up ~750 rpm and then settle back down before the car starts to pull. It is chipped Unitronic Stage 2 with some other bolt-ons.
What I'm wondering is, should I just drive it like this until it really starts to go, or should I replace it now? And what are my options for a new clutch? I don't want to big turbo this car, so the most it could get is a few more bolt-ons. I'd like a stock feeling clutch.
I have an '08 Chevy Cobalt with manual transmission with 55,000 miles on it. The clutch is beginning to slip, and is probably going out. What is the life expectancy of a clutch, I thought this seemed kind of short.
View 6 RepliesI have a 13' GT with an automatic trans and 15,000 miles.
While getting onto the highway yesterday I was in D (not + -) and I was probably in 4th gear and hit the gas pedal maybe 60-70% down and my rpms shot straight to 6-7k but I didn't get any acceleration. I let the rpms drop and it drove fine after. Pretty sure I was smelling burnt clutch too (kind of unfamiliar with that scent, I've never slipped a clutch before).
I should probably take it to the dealer for them to look at it, but am worried it will be a 1-2 week thing and I'm not sure if I'd get a loaner.
I am purchasing a car on eBay which was stated to have the following problem: "the clutch is grabbing very very low it does not slip i think it is just the hydraulics? ". When I asked if I would need to have it serviced in order to drive it 1500 miles back home ( which in my mind meant an oil change), their response was that I would need to have the master cylinder replaced in order to drive it that far...
View 13 RepliesToday I parked my golf on the street and it was raining, when I came back to the car after four hours the street had flooded and water was about an inch below the bottom of the door on the driver side, and about an inch (or more) on the passenger side and up to the bottom of the exhaust pipes in the back.
The car started fine, but when I began to drive it the clutch would slip and then bang while engaging. Once I had taken off a few times gently everything smoothed out. Car drives fine and the engine bay was dry when I got home (a 40 minute highway drive). NO water got inside the car at all, so the interior was completely dry, every thing appeared to function perfectly. My question is, assuming just the bottom of the motor, trans, and undercarriage got wet is there anything I should be weary of? Any sensors or electrical things down there? Lights, ac, door locks, everything is working and running fine and dry at this point.
So I was on the free way in 6th gear and decided to get on it, the rpm's shot up and I barely picked up speed. It's only a slight clutch slip tho only really noticeable in 6th gear so I was wondering what clutch I should go with because I was planning on going BT eventually.
View 3 RepliesAlright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
I own a 2002 W8 passat b5.5 that had issues from the used car dealer i had bought it from. I had 2 new motors installed over the period of about 13 months . The first motor had a bad torque converter and seemed to also cause my trans to slip. I am not sure if that is the direct cause of the trans slip going from 2nd to 3rd gear. The second motor dropped 4 valves in the cylinder "3" and cracked the starter. I had all the work done by the VW dealer that i used to work at.
As of today i seem to hear a knocking from idle to 5,000rpms, which is the highest ill push it. Now I know that a lot of of the W8 had issues with the torque converters. my current engine has just about 4k miles on it and I know vw warranties this motor up to 12k miles. That is not my concern, my concern is why do these motors keep failing under normal every day use in my particular vehicle?
My passat transmission is really starting to slip now. I have found a used transmission at a reputable salvage yard with 84,000 on it and its the same trans code and was told it shifted fine before they pulled it. I was just wanting to know what seals i should replace in the new transmission if any. I presume that with it being at a salvage yard all the fluid was drained from it so another question I have is how much transmission fluid should i buy when i do the swap not sure if 5 quarts is enough.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Passat TDI with 2500 miles & this car was wrecked and I recently got it back from the body shop. Well I now have a transmission problem. When I first take off the car feels like it is in a high gear. Then the transmission will slip. I have taken the car to the local VW dealer and they have given me the following information.
-Incorrect Ratio 4th gear #Code P0736 & 17110
-Incorrect Ratio 5th gear #Code P0735 & 17118
This leaves me with two options according to VW.
1. Replace the transmission
2. Replace the computer
2005 Passat TDI? Which would be more obvious as a problem?
I have a 2005 Passat TDI with 2500 miles & this car was wrecked and I recently got it back from the body shop. Well I now have a transmission problem. When I first take off the car feels like it is in a high gear. Then the transmission will slip.
I have taken the car to the local VW dealer and they have given me the following information.
-Incorrect Ratio 4th gear #Code P0736 & 17110
-Incorrect Ratio 5th gear #Code P0735 & 17118
This leaves me with two options according to VW.
1. Replace the transmission
2. Replace the computer
Every once in a while (maybe once a week) I notice that my transmission will slip (fails to engage for about half a second after hitting the throttle). Usually this happens after I have slowed down to almost a stop and then accelerate. The last time this happened I was on a slight incline (maybe 4%).
Is this something to worry about? Any easy way to test if this is an indicator of a big problem coming up down the road? The car has about 130k miles on it now and the transmission fluid and filter was changed at about 90k, the fluid level was checked by a VW tech so I assume it is correct.
So lately have had few symptoms of fuel pump going out and all that but tonight randomly wouldn't start and I mean no power, no lights, no turn over, no anything like my key fob won't even set my alarm or unlock car is this another symptom.
View 12 RepliesI drive a 2004 Jeep Liberty which currently has about 67,000 miles on it and is in relatively good shape. For a while now I've been noticing that my CEL will come on randomly while I'm driving and flash 10 times before stopping for an indeterminate time. At the time it occurs I could be doing 70 on an interstate or 35 on a city road, doesn't seem to matter. I also don't notice anything else with the car at the time. No jurking, no sounds, no nothing - seems to be running fine. I've tried taking it in to shops after I've seen it but they are never able to pull anything off of the error codes. I've now been driving with this phenomenon for over 5 years so whatever it is seems to not have been as serious as I would have expected but I do think its starting to happen more often now than it used to.
When I try and manually pull codes I get the "donE" screen with a random number that flashes super quick before disappearing. Had to use my phones slomo mode to even try and capture it. it seems to just be a number "867588". Quick video showing what I mean .....