Passat (B5) :: Starter Wouldn't Crank
Aug 13, 2011
So months ago, my wife reported the starter wouldn't crank, but after a few tries it did and the car started right up, no issues since then. I figured she didn't push the clutch in far enough.
Two weeks ago, the car threw a code for the Cam position sensor and was making some funky noises (hard to describe, almost like a rattle inside/beneath the engine) and started bouncing at idle. I replaced that within a few days and cleared the code, but the noise persisted as well as the idle (but not all the time).
Then last week it was still ratting around with no codes, but died on the highway and had to get it towed home. It would turn over, but wouldn't start. After fiddling a while and trying to start it a bunch, it would no longer turn over, so I figured the battery didn't have enough juice. Trying to jump it, I got sparks like you wouldn't believe. I actually started a small fire, and I hooked up the cables correctly too! I checked all the cables, made sure I was doing it correctly and tried again, same thing. So then I researched and saw that can be caused by a failing battery. Sure enough, the battery was 7 years old, so I went and replaced it. Still no start.
A few days later, checking more at home, it had spark, I can hear the fuel pump turn on, timing belt is in good shape, and the throttle is opening (electronically controlled). Still confused I bought a HEX+CAN and here's the results for Engine:
3 Faults Found:
16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High
P0113 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17951 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Small
P1543 - 35-00 - -
17580 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too Low
P1172 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0110 1101
So after taking apart the throttle to check it to make sure that it indeed was opening like the vag-com said it was, I put it back together and now the car won't crank. Well, I've been testing it for a while, so I figured the new battery was starting to get low, so I went to jump it and I almost started another little fire. The jumper wires heat up like crazy too. Their is no continuity between the negative and positive terminals on the battery, so I'm not sure what's going on.
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I have a '99 Passat with the 1.8T and auto trans. that does not always crank over, when you go to start it. Most of the time it cranks over and starts just fine, but there are times when you turn the key to the "start" position and nothing happens. Sometimes you have to turn the key back and forth a few times to get it to start and other times just holding the key in the "start" position for a few seconds and it will start.
I've checked the starter and every time that I applied 12 volts to the terminal 50 at the starter, it worked, but if I go back to start it with the key it goes back to random cranking. I removed the ignition switch and bench tested that with an ohmmeter and it works every time. Do I have something going on with the Starter Interlock Relay?
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Had an odd situation earlier tonight. The starter cranked normally but the engine wouldn't actually start. I let it go for 10 seconds and hit the button again to make it stop in order to protect the battery. A few seconds later, I tried and it fired right up without a hitch. The MIL never came on so no codes most likely.
Car has 17k on it. 2013 2.0
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I bought a used 2008 Toyota Camry per-certified from a local Toyota dealer about 2 years ago. About a year and a half ago I got in the car to go to work one morning and it would not start. You turn the key and all the lights come on but nothing else happened. Took the battery to Auto Zone and they said the battery was OK so I had it towed to the dealership. Dealer called when he got it and said it cranked right up for them and it has not been an issue since.
Two days ago I get in the car to leave work and the same thing happens. You might hear the starter click when you turn the key but nothing else happened. The car was getting power from the battery but that was about it. I tried to jump the car off but still the same thing. I had the car towed to a local Goodyear shop and after looking at it the said it was a problem with the alternator, that needed to be replaced, which also killed a cell in the battery that needed to be replaced also. They said since they are replacing the alternator they might as well replace the belt also.
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I have about 26,000 Miles on it, this afternoon I tried to start it. The starter engaged and turned over and over and over, but the engine wouldn't start. Then I took the key out, waited 5 seconds, and tried again, it started. It was about 60 degrees out, so it wasn't cold. Half a tank of gas.
This may seem a little petty, but its a 2012 with only 26,000 Miles on it.
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So I turned off my truck the other day, got out, and it started again on its own. Confused, I looked in my hand to see my key. I got back in, and tapped the brake thinking the command start had engaged, even though I did not have the remote with me. It continued to run. So I put the key back in the ignition, turned it to ON and back OFF. It still ran. I had to run inside for a half a minute so I left it running.
Came back and drove away with no issues. When I stopped again about 2 minutes later and shifted to PARK, the starter engaged making it's terrible 'hey stupid, I'm already running' sound. I tried shutting it OFF quickly but it still ran and made it's skinning crawling noise. So I quickly shifted back to DRIVE. All the gears worked fine but PARK and NEUTRAL had the starter engaging. I also could not shut the truck off from DRIVE as the key would not turn.
I drove over to a local garage and called them from the truck as I was effectively trapped in the truck with my foot on the brake, unable to shift to PARK or turn it OFF. No supporting staff. So I drove back to work where I had a co-worker remove the battery cable at which point I was able to shift to PARK and turn OFF the truck. I let it sit like that for about 10 minutes and haven't had a problem since.
What happened?? And for the record I can put gas in the tank and changed my own oil, but that is the extent of my vehicle knowledge.
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I just got a 2004 F-150 XLT. 200k miles AT. The problem is that it won't start. The previous owner was driving it when it suddenly died and wouldn't crank over. He was told by an auto shop it neded a new engine.
I don't think it needs a new engine because it stopped while driving. I may be wrong. I put a new battery in it. When I turn the key to start it, it just makes one loud click and doesn't do anything else. The oil and coolant look fine. What may be wrong with it or how to see if the engine is bad?
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About 2 months ago I started having a problem starting my car. It would crank and crank but wouldn't start. Eventually it would start but threw a code for the camshaft position sensor. I figured I'd go ahead and replaced it. Still had the same issue after about a week without problems, except this time the crankshaft position sensor code.
I maintain my car very well, and it just recently passed 45k miles. It's a 2010 Corolla S.
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2001 F250 5.4 ... I'm losing my mind chasing a Gremlin. I've been having mostly intermittent starting issues with my truck. I've had the truck for a little over a year, after someone totaled my previous one.
It occasionally wouldn't start on the first attempt, but it got really bad in the last couple weeks.
I first thought it was a faulty inertia switch or wiring in that vicinity, as at one point after manually tripping and resetting the cutoff switch it would start, UNTIL I put the trim panel back. At this point I think that may have been a coincidence.
I eventually probed the switch and it tests as it should electrically.
I put in a new fuel filter and things were fine for several days, but it acted up again. That time was last Saturday. Got it to start and all was good until tonight. Now it won't go, and I've tried so many times that I can see the battery power is dropping.
Last Saturday I pulled the relays from behind the radio and cleaned 'em up real nice. Also, just to check another variable I swapped the two that matched.
I'm about ready to change the fuel pump, but I've heard so many people say they did that but the problem was something else. Not only will it costs hundreds of dollars, its cold out and we'll have to drop the tank in the driveway.
In addition to the relay, inertia switch and fuse, I have found some mention of faulty fuel pressure regulators causing issues. I'll pry the vacuum line off in the morning to see if I can detect fuel residue on the vacuum side. (There is some noticeable corrosion on the fuel rail in that area).
I REALLY want to make sure I rule everything else out before spending hours under the truck in freezing weather dropping the tank and changing the sending unit out.
On key-on there is a noise from the gas tank, but someone else listening described it as a click but no whirring.
I do hear the relay clicking behind the radio. (Also, I pulled them again tonight and put a meter to them. With 12V on the primary side, they click and the other side shows continuity on diode check, and about .2 Ohm on resistance mode.)
I went through a lot of trouble to get my spare out looking for the fuel control module before finding out my truck is about 3 years too old to have one too. What else to check?
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I have a 2001 7.3 that recently had a throttle position sensor issue I replaced the sensor 4 days ago and my truck ran like new. Until last night I shut my truck off and went to start it up a few seconds later and it would crank continually but wouldn't turn over so I went for the obvious and replaced the cam sensor but that didn't change anything. My scanner is throwing a waste gate fail code.
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I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. The starter does not crank at all. I put the key in and turn it and nothing, just a click. I have replaced the starter/solenoid with a new one and I have charged the battery and it is good (battery is only 8 months old). It still does not crank, nothing.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
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Starter clicks wont crank...
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Replaced battery with good battery, terminal post, tested starter (twice), verified that 12V is switched to solenoid by ignition switch, cleaned all contact surfaces, etc. but starter still will not crank.
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1997 Toyota Camry V6. The car won't start, the engine won't crank. I've checked for 12v constant at the starter and that's good. Next I checked for a 12v trigger at the starter. That wasn't present at the starter.
I went to the starter relay. Pulled the starter relay and tested it by applying 12v across two terminals and checked for continuity across the other two. It checked fine.
So I checked for constant 12v into the starter relay, that's present. Checked for 12v trigger into starter relay, that was present also. Next I jumped 12v through starter relay terminal into the starter and the starter cranked the engine. Next I checked for ground into the starter relay, I didn't have continuity.
So I'm guessing it's either a bad ground wire coming into the fuse box or maybe even a bad fuse box? Is my thinking correct? Or is there something else that it could be? Maybe a main fuse or something, IDK, this is the first time I've encountered a problem like this.
What wire is the ground source for the starter relay? I found a wiring diagram from Chiltons (which I've attached to this post for reference) but I'm not really sure which wire is the ground for the starter relay. I don't have the car or relay in front of me to look at the terminal numbers.
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2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue 3.5L 224,XXX Miles. About a month ago, the car refused to crank, while out but was able to be jumped and started twice. After it was jumped, the analog gauges refused to work and the transmission shifted hard for about 5mins, then returned to normal. Once it was back in the driveway, it hasn't cranked since, no starter function.
The very first thing I replaced was the Ignition Switch, after replacing, nothing changed, no crank. I then had the battery replaced and the starter bench tested, it tested good. I then tore into the engine bay and cleaned every ground. I found that grounds G113 had the insulation rubbed away but the wire was still connected. I then removed the tape, inspected the harness as far as I could aether way and only found that. The wire and ring terminals where replaced about 6inches into the harness. (NOTE: when I had the pcm disconnected, G113, G117, G119 the key functions function normally, ((I'll explain later)). I then reinstalled everything, reinstalled all grounds after cleaning them and using dielectric grease. No change.
Things I've observed wrong: when the key is in "ACC" the cluster blinks and relays click at a high speed. The fuel pump also works the same way. You can make it stop by using the left or right blinker, then the "PRND123" indicator will light. With key "on" the ipc functions normally but there is no "PRND123" indicators, no fuel gauge reading. With key on "CRANK" the relays behind the radio area click once, the dash goes dark, but the radio and climate controls stay on.
I've DVOM'd a lot of fuses and most check out except: dashboard fuse labeled "crank" has ~3V when the key is on acc/on but 12V when on Crank. Under hood fuse box checks out except the IGN MAIN relay and its fuses "ABS/FIJN/OXN.." they only read 7-8V, with the relay removed, the relay reads same voltage too. No other fuses affected. I checked the "Crank voltage C2, pin 23" at the PCM and only got ~3V with key on crank, but 9V with key "on". I CANNOT jump the "crank" relay, it does nothing.
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Well I dunno what to do. I tried to start the car many times. The starter (or what ever part it is) seems to crank over and over for about five seconds and then stops. Nothing. Battery is fine. Everything electrical powers up. Just not the engine.
I just recently had the complete timing belt service done and oil change about two weeks ago. That's about it. Now I am a sitting duck tonight....
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I drove to work yesterday, all was fine. Got in the car at lunch time and NO START!! No "parallel" start!!! the car "wakes up", the wheel and tranny unlock, all the dash lights activate but the starter will not crank!!. I did hear 4 or 5 clicks coming from under the car on the first attempt but none after, this morning I heard the same clicks in the first start attempt then nothing after. Here is a scan:
Code:
Thursday,10,July,2014,14:01:01:08208
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0
Data version: 20140212
[Code] .....
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Already replaced the starter relay will not crank from the key but even when I jump the starter the car still wont start and the switch is in the on position I checked all the fuses and replaced the ecm ....
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Random issue that has progressively been getting worse. I'm assuming it's one of those Sonata quirks that we all deal with.
When you turn the key the starter doesn't try to crank the engine. AC stuff all works properly. I just keep turning and eventually it will turn on.
[URL]...................
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