Passat (B5) :: Split Second Delay When Press The Gas - ABS Module Is Not Communicating
Jan 5, 2012
I have a 2002 Passat 1.8L T AWM Manual, 223K
I have noticed in the last little while, The car has a aplit second delay when I press the gas and it pulls.
I.e. If I'm on the highway, 5th gear 110km.h, I let go of the gas, soon as I press it again, a split second delay and it pulls with a slight jerk( Gas....... slight jerk. accel no problem).
Also, at times when the car is sitting overnight, my Airpump doesn't start when I start the car. In warmer weather, it always fires up after the car has been OFF for a period of time.
I got my Ross-Tech Vag and scanned it with no issues, except, my ABS module is not communicating.
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Had my .:R for 2 years now and just noticed other day. When you cruise in 2/3/4/5 gears about 3000 RPM and suddenly press accelerator 1/3 down RPM jump UP for a split second on tachometer. They go up by one segment (which is 200RPM) and then drop back down.
Now, DSG should not do that to my understanding as clutch pack is engaged! There should be no slip. Also, it is not a drive train shunt, as I kept the car in very slight acceleration.
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The timer built into the Prius needs to be pressed each time a delay is needed ? Is this correct ?
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Picked up the car 5 days ago but noticed when I press the clutch and rev the engine, there's a throttle delay/hesitation and a simultaneous sound like "psshht". The sound is almost like when you're shifting a turbo car with a blow off valve.
Other than that the car is great. 2012 Elantra GL manual ...
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I've been noticing over the past couple years that sometimes when I accelerate, there's a slight delay between the time I press my foot down on the pedal and when acceleration actually happens. From reading other threads it would seem that the most common fix is to re-flash the ECU. I bought a DiabloSport Predator tuner along with a CAI a while back to improve performance/gas mileage and I was wondering if there's a way I can use the tuner to re-flash.
If not, do most ford repair shops already carry these? I don't want to buy a flash programmer. Also, if the shop does carry this type of an item, what is the average cost to get it re-flashed?
I own an '04 F150 XLT 5.4l.
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I drive about 25 miles to work each day usually at highway speeds (~75mph). At the end of my trip as I'm coasting down the exit ramp and starting to apply my brakes, at around 30mph my car 'skips' for a split second.
It's hard to describe...it feels almost as if I've hit a patch of icy road and the ABS kicks in for a split second, but it's a little more severe than the feel of the ABS system activating. I don't know if it's a rough transmission downshift or what...but very annoying and hopefully not a sign of worse things to come.
The car has about 14k miles on it. It's a 3.6L Passat Wagon.
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While changing over to snow tires yesterday, I noticed the driver's side CV boot was split open with grease/oil everywhere.
Questions:
How urgent is this repair? Is the car drivable for a short while until I can get it fixed?
How much might I expect a CV boot replacement to cost?
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Feel that VW has tuned down the throttle response of 2.5 I5. Well after having the car 2 weeks now, I don't hate the engine as much, and I don't think the issue I am having is with the engine it-self. In sport mode and tip mode it is much better, Once the car decides to give me what I want, it has plenty power. But in auto mode, It has to do with starting off from first gear at a stop. I really believe it has to be a software problem the way the throttle is mapped in the DBW. The problem is there is little throttle response off the line. Like I push the accelerator down halfway quickly, and the engine throttle opens maybe 1/8 and slowly goes to 1/2 like 5 seconds later. It's more of a drive-ability problem. It's like no other car i have ever driven. If I give half throttle, I expect the car to open to half throttle immediately, and not delay it. I really hope VW comes up with a fix for this, I'm sure it is just a programing problem. So am I the only one?
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So this is weird. When it is cold outside it takes a few minutes before my stereo will work. It powers on and you get a quick blip of audio but then it takes a few minutes before it will work again. What is causing this issue?
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My car is having delayed shifting (2.0t Auto) when shifting from Park to Drive. Also, whenever im slowing down to turn right or left, and press the gas, it seems to lurch forwars, as it is still downshifting, which seems to be really delayed. Im hoping its the Valve Body since its covered under extended warranty until October, and want to get this taken care of before I trade this piece of crap in for a Ford or Honda. Its in the shop (won't let VW touch it since the dealer screwed up several times), and was wondering if this sounds like an issue of the Valve Body...
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I got the fuel pump and fuel pump control module replaced. Now I am still getting a cold start delay (5-10 seconds to start) and it has a rough idle sounding like its misfiring. This happened when i picked it up at the dealership after a new fuel pump BUT! keep in mind it has been doing this for a while so i figured it was the fuel pump.
New oem plugs and the coils were replaced when i bought the car because the coils failed during a test drive I need to scan the codes but i will post. Also this only happens during a cold start. if the car is warm and i go into target or something then start it shortly after its fine.
TSB'S I think will fix this. [URL] .....
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Took my 99 XLT super cab to a Ford dealer to have a new key made (I have only one so can't do it myself). I was told the PAT (Passive Anti-Theft) module wouldn't communicate with their system.....
As I understand it, the PAT module communicates wirelessly to the key module under the steering column. Since the PAT module is obviously working (the truck cranks, starts and runs fine). What are they talking about?
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2000 Honda Odyssey - CEL came on a couple of days ago and I took it to get the code read. The reader says it can't link up with the ecu. Tried the same reader on another car and it worked fine. The transmission was rebuilt last year (about 9 mo. ago) and I'm concerned that something was not hooked up right during the rebuild. Is this a possibility for the non-linking of the reader to the ecu? Also, last year, before the tranny rebuild, I had a reader hooked up to the ecu and it worked fine.
As a side note, the TCS light comes on sometimes after starting the car and won't turn off. If I restart the car it will turn off and work properly. I imagine this is related, but not sure since I can't read the code for the CEL.
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My 96 ranger had lost a brake pad coming out of the mountains. I replaced the rotor but the ABS light came on as well as the check engine within a week. Several issues the clock spring was bad, replaced. The cam position Sensor was bad, replaced. I had this at a shop in a small town. While I was there they ran diagnostics.
At first the ABS module was sending data and gave them some info. Suddenly there was no more data stored in the module. They ordered a new ABS module installed it and replaced the LF sensor cable. Both sensors were cleaned prior to this.
The new abs module required a trip to ford to reprogram. At the shop they still could not get the light out. I took the truck home to my ford dealer and they said bad abs. Got a new (rebuilt Mfg discontinued) Installed and ford said this was bad with a code c1102. 4 w 4wd installed needs 4 w 2wd. ordered a new abs. Ford said same code again and the tech said that the ABS is not communicating through the obdii port.
My thoughts are the reader they used at the small shop was defective and either shorted out something or blew a fusible link. I am told this is 4 wheel abs with the rear sensors are on the pumpkin but after looking at the diagrams I do not see a RABS fuse. I have tested all fuses, and the shop replaced several relays. The pcm and ABS diodes check ok. Perplexed.
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My iPhone 4S stopped communicating through the NAV system last week. I could still call out using voice commands but I could not be heard or hear the other person.
Went to Dealership yesterday thinking something in the car broke and after an hour of testing was told that the phone was too old. Apparently Apple updates the phone's OS from time to time, and this time it broke the Lexus NAV system to phone link.
So I went out and upgraded the 4S to a 6. Now it works again, so Lexus Tech was right, it was an Apple OS upgrade that must have happened a week ago.
I wonder if Lexus will now remove the 4s from its "compatibility" list.
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I just picked up a 2006 GLS with 66,600 miles. Everything works great aside from the front door actuators. Outside at the drivers door I can lock and unlock the doors (except for the passenger front door). From the passenger side I can lock and unlock the doors (except for the drivers door). The Central door lock switch will not lock or unlock the front passenger door.
I am hoping that the fact that either side functions with the other doors indicates that the actuators are still working. My guess is that the front actuators just aren't communicating with each other. Is this just a programming problem that the Hyundai Hi Scan Pro computer can resolve? It doesn't appear that the vehicle has been programmed for the xx MPH automatic door lock. We had to have the dealer program this "option" on our 2007.
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Where is it located in a V6 passat? I am having that problem where the oil, abs, and break lights are screaming at me... not to mention the tachometer stops working when they come on.
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Had the typical ABS light issues, diagnosed as the module. I just removed the module to have it rebuilt and the ABS light is still going off. I thought I read somewhere that if you took the module off it would at least stop the lights and beeping .
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Looking for info on replacing ABS module themselves? I was wondering how difficult this job can be.
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A friend of mine has got a B5 1999 passat, and it has the typical abs module failure. How to get rid of the light since he failed the safety inspection. He doesnt care about working ABS, and the inspection is just visually checking the dashboard. I've tried pulling the fuse, and/or physically disconnecting the ABS module, and neither of those work. Which wires should I jump on the module connector (and if it even is possible to do this)?
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