Passat (B5) :: Sound Like Missing A Muffler - Hole In Catalytic Converter
Jan 14, 2011
I have a big hole in my catalytic converter and the car sounds like it is missing a muffler. Where I should go to have that hole welded as i do not see myself spending ~700 to get a new one for Passat 2003.
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I recently had my catalytic converter replaced with a non-OEM cat. The check engine light came on and a different shop (different from the shop that replaced the cat) said that it will keep coming on because I had the cat replaced with a non-OEM cat.
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So this morning (Kind of Cold) I went out site and started my car. I heard some noise under the car and I noticed that the noise bad been coming from the Catalytic Converter area and there was water dripping off of it.
My guess is that it was just warming up and the water was from the cold. Is it normal?
I have a GLX V6 ...
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It came on 2-3 miles after a cold start. 3.6 with 137,000 miles. What's next? First car I've owned that uses very little oil between oil changes.
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I have a 2007 Passat turbo wagon and my cat converter got a hole in it the other day. I drove in morning and it was just noisy otherwise fine. My wife took it in afternoon and almost didn't make it home. Could hardly make it up a hill and brakes had to be applied to floor. Anti lock would vibrate but not very responsive to stopping. Was towed to local mechanic next day and he thinks problems are related. Could the computer cause a breakdown of the brakes due to bad exhaust system? He says he can't find ant leaks in brake system. He is waiting for the cat converter to come in to replace and hopes brakes will work again.
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Yesterday my 1995 Toyota Corolla (which runs well otherwise) started making the loudest rumbling exhaust sound I've ever heard whenever I stepped on the gas pedal. It also felt like it had trouble accelerating when I would try to get going after a stop. I took it to a mechanic right away, who says it needs a new catalytic converter and resonator pipe.
My boyfriend says this is a repair he could do. He has done some car repair and worked with a mechanic before, so I am considering trusting him on that, but I don't know what types of repairs he's done before and I know he has never worked on this model. What would you take into consideration whether or not it would be safe to attempt this repair at home?
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I have a 2000 Passat with the 2.8L engine. The flexible pipe which is part of the catalytic converter is leaking and the only way to replace it is to replace the catalytic converter. VW refused to assist with the repairs because the car has 96000 mi on it. Emission warranty is 8/80000. How I can replace only the flexible pipe without the cat. because it's still good.
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I have some serious work that needs to be done on my car. The catalytic converter needs replacing, and the valve cover gasket and cam adjuster seals need to be replaced. This work falls under their respective warranties. However, I'm wondering if I should have the water pump and timing belt done at the same time as I have 77000+ miles on my car. Is there anything else that would be good to do at the same time as this work. I would be going back to the VW service center for these repairs. Would it save me any money to do this all together?
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So the code reads "warm up catalytic converter efficiency below threshold (bank1)" ?? What it could be?
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I just got a Walker SoundFX muffler and there is no drain hole for condensation. Should I make one?
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Just brought my 2006 f250 crew cab v8 to the garage. My muffler has a fairly large hole in it. My mechanic said the piping to the muffler is still in good shape and literally, the only part that requires replacing is the muffler itself. I told him I'd like a bit more of a "throaty" sound than the original stock muffler. He suggested the dynomax super turbo. I checked a few US websites and it's about half price there with free shipping. In fact, most mufflers are about half price in the States. There are so many to choose from, Which brand and model to go with. I'd like to keep it as close to a direct fit as I can seeing as all the pipes are still good.
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I have a 2003 F250 5.4L crew cab with the 156"wb. She has just developed a hole in the stock muffler so it will need to be replaced.
I want something that is an easy-fit, has better flow, and maybe better sounding.
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I have a 2001 VT GTI with 155K miles on it. It is in very good condition. I have loved the car except for the high maintenance costs that typically seem to be associated with VWs.
I found out this week after my check engine light came on that the car needs a new catalytic converter and a new new secondary air pump.
Let's assume that this diagnosis is correct and the repair is accurate for the sake of this posting (and I have no doubt it is). In other words, I don't want to get my question derailed on that issue.
The car has new Michelin tires on it and runs well. The problem is that it will fail the state emissions test I am required to take next December, and I will either be forced to have the car repaired or will not be able to get updated license tabs (isn't that sweet?!).
It seems that I have a few options:
1. Get the repair done (ouch) and keep driving the car for a few more years. Repair cost is about what the market value of the car is (from what I have seen).
2. Sell the car "as-is" between now and December and see what cash I can get out of it. Any buyer will discount the value of the vehicle based on the repairs needed. Of course, then I'll need a replacement vehicle of some sort.
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See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
How to Replace a Catalytic Converter
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Air Intake and Exhaust Guides
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I have a 2000 Lincoln Town Car with a single exhaust system, part of/attached to the frontal area of the exhaust "Y" pipe are two lumps with heat shields, the muffler is obvious in the mid-section of the car, but are those "lumps" the catalytic converters, and if so, why two when the older cars had only one?
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Someone put sugar in my gas tank so I had it worked on at the Dodge place they replaced my fuel pump..fuel filter cleaned the tank..flushed the lines cleaned my injectors and replaced the plugs..I went to pick it up I barely made it a mile down the road I had no power and a lady flagged me down to tell me to pull over because I had sparks coming from the bottom of my van I looked under the van and the catalytic converter was red like hit coals the Dodge place is telling me its my flex plate? I think they are misdiagnosing the issue because before the sugar issue I had no problems with my van?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Prius that is currently in limp mode...
Took it to the dealer for diagnostics and they said the Catalytic Converter has failed...So I went online, bought a new one and replaced it. The symptoms prior the Cat replacement were still there...mpg loss, power loss, and exhaust air was not exiting the end of the pipe but actually leaking out the connection point where the Cat and the manifold met.
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I own a 2004 Acura RSX that I purchased new nearly 10 years ago. The car currently has 182,000 miles on it. Two years ago (approx. 130,000 miles), I had to replace the catalytic converter and both O2 sensors. This lightened my wallet to the tune of $1,200 (aftermarket franchise, OEM replacement). A few weeks ago, the "check engine" light came on. I used my scanner, and got the dreaded P0420 code, and had it verified by another shop. O2 sensors were OK. What REALLY shocked me was that replacement catalytic converters are only warranted for 5 years/25,000 miles (50k in CA). The first replacement piece lasted 52,000 miles (less than half the miles/years of the original part)
Here are THE QUESTIONS: What killed this catalytic converter? What can I do to prolong the life of this part? My car has the base powertrain that (according to the owner's manual) recommends 87 octane fuel. That's all I've ever used. The mechanic suggested moving up to mid-grade fuel, though he admitted that he wasn't sure.
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I have a 2000 Chevy Camaro. Two years ago my catalytic converter went out and I had it replaced. 20,000 miles later my mechanic says that I need to replace it again. Is this accurate? I thought the life of a Catalytic Converter was much longer.
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On my 2002 Subaru Forester (137,000 m), the check engine light came on. They diagnosed and repaired O2 sensor. About 300 miles later it came on again, this time they said the catalytic converter was cooked, and they blamed whatever caused the O2 sensor to fail (or the O2 sensor failure itself). After the repair (about $1300 and 30 miles later), I discovered that the engine oil was so low that it was not showing up on the dipstick (tho the oil light was not yet on). The shop (after admitting that they did not check the oil while it was in there) said it was related to catalytic converter failure. Does this make sense? I have only gone another 60 miles since the oil was refilled, but so far it looks OK. Should I be on the look-out for anything else?
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My car had its check engine light come on a few days ago, and the engine started to get extremely loud whenever I was accelerating. I would also smell gas whenever I would start the car. I decided to take it to a mechanic, who did a diagnostic check and told me that my catalytic converter was busted. This troubled me because I had just had the part replaced a little over two years ago. I figured the part would still be under warranty, but the mechanic that I had used to replace the cat told me that it was only under warranty for one year or 12,000 miles, according to the distributor. Well, I got a hold of the distributor, and he told me that he didn't have the information for the specific part that he used (he just told me that he "figured" it would be one year or 12,000 miles because most of the parts that they receive have warranties of that length....). Shops are closed now for the weekend, and I am getting worried about my bank account here...should I be?
Well, my questions for you all are as follows:1) Have you all ever heard of a catalytic converter ever having only a 1 year or 12,000-mile warranty? My current mechanic tells me he has never heard of one being so short, and that usually they are 5 years or 50,000 miles. I did minimal research on the internet and also found similar results.2) Who do I need to get into contact with in order to find out how long the warranty is, and how I redeem the warranty?
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