Passat (B5) :: Smoke Heavily Right Under The Coolant Tank
Mar 9, 2012
Whats under here that can be causing my car to smoke? During the week I dont drive it much just because I drive and take home my work truck, but when I start it up and let it run it smokes pretty heavily, right under the coolant tank but more to the rear. Other then a valve gasket what else could this be? Also comes from that opposite side but not as heavy.
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Been barely driving my super duty due to it having a multitude of issues. So working on getting this thing back to some semblance of running decently and it has been smoking whitish blue, oil smoke out the exhaust. Not constantly, intermittently as far as I can tell.
If I drive it at highway speeds for 5-10 minutes then slow down it will smoke for about 10-15 seconds pretty heavily. Yesterday I got off the beltway after running for 15 minutes, it didn't seem to be smoking, but about 1 mile to 1 and half miles later, pulled into a convenience store and it was like I was spraying for mosquitoes for about 20 seconds then cleared up.
Truck seems to be running strong. Turbo doesn't seem to have any play side to side or in and out(according to Baltimore Performance Diesel who I don't necessarily trust at all [ I will explain my reasoning on that some other time, but let's just say, one of the reasons involves a rear main seal diagnosis... I digress] but I assume they are correct on that, I haven't looked myself. So what are some other possible answers, rings I would think would be fairly constant but I could be wrong there.
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Changed coolant expansion tank and coolant, engine lite came on. Scanner says coolant problems. What can it be. ECU is not recognizing new tank.
Car passat 1.8, M/T, 05, coolant was changed with the pink coolant from dealership, system was flushed and bleeded. Car is NOT overheating, temperature is showing as usual.
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I have a 2004 passat 1.8t which currently blows heavy white smoke from the tailpipe; coolant in oil and vise versa; when I open the oil fill cap / dipstick white smoke blows from there also. At first I thought it was the head gasket so I replaced it and resurfaced the head. What i noticed was burned oil on the sides inside the head. After putting everything together the smoke never quit blowing and after couple of hours the fluids mixed again. After reading the forums I took off the oil cooler and tested it by submerging it under water and hooking compressed air to the water lines -- no bubbles came out of the sides. Maybe I tested it wrong while the it is the oil cooler all along? Could it be cracked head? block?
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I have a volkswagen TDi 1.9 automatic which is using coolant more on short runs than on motorway and produces white smoke/steam on start up even when not cold which disappears after a few seconds. Other symptom is doesn't accelerate though goes OK when once up to speed. Have has cylinder head checked and new gasket so that is not the culprit and also new heat exchanger. There is also a gurgling noise which seems to be coming from the dash board though I am not sure if these things are related. I have read that the automatic has a water cooled EGR, could this be it??
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I wanted to move my car to the other side of the street just now and when started the engine up, motor started to vibrate/shake heavily and few seconds later "check engine" light popped up on my dash. Turned the car of right after that, restarted it again and motor seems to be working fine now but the light is still there. Car was parked for the last two days and it was around 22 degrees outside.
I'm going to schedule an appointment with the dealership for tomorrow first thing in the morning just trying to find out if i can drive it to the dealer or call VW assistance and get it towed to the dealer. Like i said car seems to be driving normally now as i drove it anyway for about two minutes, it's just that light that's ON at all times now (not blinking)
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Anybody have any issues with this? I have a week old r-line and had the epc light come on, turbo seems to spool heavily with little throttle input and seems a bit sluggish.
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Getting new tires very soon. I noticed this wear pattern on my front tires. The heavily worn part is on the inside of both front tires. Is this normal wear for our cars (I do go around the turns pretty fast) or should I have an alignment done once the new tires are on?
The link might not be working, try this one? [URL]
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Level in the tank going down? I don't appear to have any leaks but it's now down to the "Min" level cold.
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Lost coolant after dealer replaced a new fuel pump.
Before I start car, the level of coolant is Max and tank cap is tight. Driving back home and stop engine, the coolant level is still Max. Second day, coolant is lost and tank cap is a little loose. No more coolant loss if leaving it at home without driving. If I topped up the tank, after two days driving, coolant level is lower than MIN.
I did not find any leaks, like fuel tank and passenger's side floor.
Is it possible that tank cap causes this coolant loss?
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I just noticed this morning that the coolant tank (close to radiator) is empty. The other coolant tank level is normal. Big surprise! I thought they are connected, and coolant can flow between them.
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My 2015 2.4L Hyundai Sonata randomly started overheating today. The coolant tank is full and it never did this before. The temperature gauge goes up and the information display says car has overheated.
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Was under the hood today and noticed the coolant tank is completely empty. Car hasn't overheated or anything...just odd that it apparently wasn't filled correctly from the factory. It should be in the middle of the high and low markings, correct?
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I have a 02 cavalier 2.2 it just started leAking coolant when in a drive thru. Steam started coming up from hood. When I looked under the hood the expansion tank was hissing and it looked like the antifreeze was coming out of the overflow tube at the top of the tank. What should I do? It is sitting still at the parking lot
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Just finished a timing belt job on my 93 celica 5sfe. Filled the coolant up and burped engine. All seems to be well. My question is related to the coolant overflow tank. The cap has a hose attached on one end coming from the radiator and another coming out the other side that is short and L shaped. The L shaped hose isn't attached to anything and is open allowing air to either vent out or vent in to the overflow tank. There isn't any place nearby where the hose might attach to. Is this hose supposed to be "unattached" as it is now or should it be closed to create vacuum for the overflow tank to allow coolant back in to the radiator?
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I just purchased a 2015 sonata last Friday from a large non Hyundai dealer. An hour ago while upgrading my headlights i noticed the coolant reserve tank was completely empty. I am going to check the main radiator level tomorrow because the engine was still hot at the time. I am hoping it is not a blown head gasket, i did remove the oil cap and noticed a very small amount of greyish oil in the cap threads other than that it looked good directly under the cap and inside the hole. Should i call my local Hyundai dealer or just fill the tank back up? I am wondering if it just burned off over time and the original owner never filled it back up. Also what type of coolant is compatible?
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The engine oil is being sucked into the cooling system and filling up the coolant recovery tank. It's a peanut butter mess. The radiator is loaded also and I can't what the passages in the block look like. Some say its a head gasket but why would crank case be empty. I would think there would be coolant mixed with oil in the crankcase. I think its a engine porous issue. The vehicle was bought used with 133k miles and a 3 month warranty.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Neon with a 2001 Neon motor in it. I have just recently had problems with the car overheating. So we started diagnosing it and replaced parts that we thought were wrong. We replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap, and timing belt. The problem that I am having is that the car won't take coolant out of the reservoir tank. I have bled the air out of the cooling system and it still didn't fix the problem.
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I got a warning light that the Toyota dealer said indicated that the Coolant Storage Assembly tank had gone bad. It's not leaking, just not working. It's a very expensive fix and in the little bit of research I've done I'm wondering whether it needs to be fixed. My understanding is that it takes warm coolant and stores it in a thermos-like container to stay warm a few days to assist cold starts. However, I live near San Francisco and the weather is very mild here. We might have a few below freezing days in the winter, but for the majority of the year nights are only 50 degrees, and usually only 40 degrees n the winter. So, do I really need this fixed? It seems that since the weather here is so mild it should be fine. BTW, I haven't fixed it since the light went on in January and haven't had any problems starting the car so far.
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Last week during a hot/long day on the road, my engine temp gauge started fluctuating between 1/2 and almost 7/8 on the gauge. The weird thing was that it was fairly stable most of the time, but every 10 minutes or so, it would heat up, and spend bout 15 seconds at the high mark before dropping down again. It didn't seem to be related to rpm, A/C operation, or driving intensity. When I got home, and let it cool down, I checked the coolant level. I couldn't see any coolant in the radiator, but the expansion tank was nearly full. I guess the low coolant level can explain the symptoms above, but I can't figure out what is happening to the coolant.
I took the car to a mechanic and had a pressure test, which didn't show any leakage. I had a new thermostat and radiator cap installed. They flushed the system, and tested the hose between the expansion tank and radiator. After driving the car home, the coolant in the radiator had already dropped to the point where I couldn't see it, and the expansion tank was 3/4 full. Now, I am planning to keep track of the levels of both reservoirs (and refilling the radiator of course) to see if the fluid is leaking, or if it is just not returning from the expansion tank. Hopefully this bit of knowledge should locate the problem.
The successful pressure test leads me to believe that it isn't leaking externally. However, I'm wondering if there is a small enough leak that wouldn't be detected by the pressure test, but is significant enough that it would allow air in when the engine cools instead of pulling the fluid back from the expansion tank.
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My wife has a 2005 Equinox and we discovered an oil residue in the coolant pressure tank. I wanted to diagnose the problem myself and hopefully rule out a blown head gasket. I flushed the system and replaced the hoses that had began to break down. I dove the car for a while and let it sit overnight. Sure enough the oil came back. This time it was blackish put couldn't really tell. The 3400 engine in the Equinox has no pressure on the top of the engine while running so transmission cooler must be the culprit. I ordered a new radiator and the broke one sat in the shop over the weekend and while it was there it drained. The milky fluid leaked out and separated from the coolant. I then knew it was trans fluid because it was red after separating. Changed the radiator and the problem is fixed. One thing I did learn is head gasket doesn't mean engine killer.
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