After like 20 minutes drive, my car smells like coolant. but it doesn't leak or something. The coolant is on max, and doesn't move at all. so whats that smell. Everybody said you are leaking coolant, but it isn't.
View 3 RepliesI have a leak somewhere in my car. There are no spots left from my parking stall, or any visible wet spots under the hood, but my car continuously looses fluid somewhere. It disappears fast enough that in a 10 minute drive it can go from full to the coolant light and alarm going off on the dash.
View 1 RepliesMy car smells like burnt fumes when I drive; especially in the cabin! At first it occasionally smelt this way, only when I stepped on it. Now its constant. The valve cover gasket has been changed, and it still smells! The next step is to delete the PCV. These fumes are making me sick; rolling down your windows does not work....
View 6 RepliesOK Wife has been coming home and the car smells like coolant. The tiny hose from the rad cap to the reservoir isn't pressurized and popping the res cap does not release pressure. Do they are supposed to pressurized?
The coolant level is in the exact middle of high and low just after a 25 minute highway drive. I cant see any puddles or leaks anywhere on the tray; but I have pulled the tray anyway to see if leaks show up on my floor. Temp gauge never wavers at all from what she tells me.
This is a bit perplexing. Maybe a bad rad cap?
About 8 to 10 minutes into the drive and....beeeep, I have an "Airbag Fault" on the dash. Just showed up out of the blue.
View 1 RepliesI have a '99 1.8T Passat. The coolant temperature gauge normally reaches operating temperature of 190 degrees within about 5 minutes and stays there. For some reason, after reaching 190, it sometimes drops by 20-30 degrees and is running cooler than normal. Once time it dropped down, then came back up again, while driving a steady 65 mph. The coolant level is full and nothing else has changed.
I guess there are a few possibilities: a thermostat stuck open too far, a failing temperature sensor, bad gauge, or loose connection at the sensor. The car has 145K miles and the thermostat and water pump were replaced at about 100K miles. What is going on? If it runs a little too cool, is that a big deal? How would I diagnose it? Where is the temperature sensor?
So I run a custom sct tune as my daily driver. Every 6 months or so my turbo starts acting funny. I get a weird turbo bark on wot. The shift pattern gets thrown off. It feels like something is about to break in a bad way.
But then it fixes itself. I return my truck to stock and run a couple laps down the highway. It blows smoke, stinks, and smells like something is burning for about 15 minutes then it is fine. I change it back to the custom tune and it runs fine for 6 months again.
What this is? Is this an egr valve or ebp sensor?
I recently replaced the head gasket on my 740 turbo. I still have coolant in my oil and it smells like fuel. I pulled the plugs and there is no coolant on them and they have some carbon on them. Is it possible for the coolant and oil to mix elsewhere? Like the turbo?
View 11 RepliesMy 1999 mercury mountaineer 4.0 smells like coolant there r no visible leaks overflow is at the normal the temp gauge didn't go high and the cap is cold IM kinda confused...........
View 9 RepliesI have a 99 Ford F-150 Lariat. I am smelling oil in my coolant reservoir. I have looked all over the engine and do not see any leaks. I do not see any oil on the ground. The truck does not overheat so I don't know how it is getting in. My engine runs great. What can be causing this problem?
View 2 RepliesI've had my 2001 Ford Ranger for almost a year now 240,000 miles, almost no problems until now. It doesn't overheat, but smoke is coming from the hood and smells like burning oil EVERYTIME I start it up & drive it. I don't think its a head gasket problem, but I could be wrong.
View 3 RepliesI have owned my 2005 v10 ex since 60000 miles. Have had many dependable family road trips and love my truck.
Recently it has started puking coolant and the overflow tank smells like exhaust. The oil cap has some coolant sludge on it. But there is no coolant mixed with the oil. Or oil in the coolant.
I am pretty certain these are the signs of failing head gaskets. The truck has 193000 miles on it now.
Want to keep it on course. But keep it reliable. So do I buy new engine or do I just replace head gaskets?
I have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
View 3 RepliesNewbie hear to the 6.0L's. But I'm learning an awful lot really quick from all of you here. I've read lots of tech stuff on these EGR Coolers, oil coolers, FICM tests. This is what I got happening right now.
2004 F-250 6.0L. Today was 45 degrees in Reno. 5400 ft elevation. Tried to start it without block heater. Would not even crank. It tried to crank but sounded like it locked up on first crank. Tried again, nothing. Same. Tried yet again and finally got to getting the engine to crank, but wouldn't start after about 5 seconds of cranking. Waited a little while not wanting to burn out my FICM, then tried again. Same as previous, would crank but not turnover. Checked batteries. Both were over 12.3 V cold, motor not running. This next time, turned key on and let it sit in ON position for about a minute. Then cranked and it took about 5 seconds and then the motor finally cranked over. Lots of black smoke as usual for a cold start like this. Battery volts after cranking over and running were now both over 13.6 V.
Keep in mind the truck has started better than this before in 15 degree weather just about a month ago.
After it started I noticed what appeared to be oil/coolant residue directly underneath trucks transmission area. It was not tranny, but in that area. I got under the truck and can see this fluid coming from EGR Cooler area.
Now for the smoke. Just stared smoking on start up. White smoke. Then it would disappear as engine warmed up. Now its constant white smoke when warmed up and applying the throttle. Smells like coolant coming out of exhaust. Not diesel.
I parked truck facing downwards on my driveway. Then I checked EGR Valve. When I pulled it it was WET. Not dry. Peeked in EGR Valve hole, didn't see coolant. Just wetness. I did change gasket and rings on it the day before as well.
As for FICM, it reads 47.9 Volts on key turn, 48.1 on cranking and 47.8 running. FICM good by all standard 6.0L literature. Degas bottle passed pressure test holding near 15 PSI for 20 minutes! No oil in degas bottle that I can see.
Truck is stock. Is my egr cooler and oil cooler shot? Would a bad egr cooler or oil cooler cause this awful cold start? When I plug in the block heater, it starts NO PROBLEM, but still white smoke. Also, NO loss of power at any time.
Been this way for awhile. I can smell gas with my windows down. It's very potent. Almost everyone that rides in my car can smell it. What could this be?
View 6 RepliesMy A/C smells absolutely horrible every time I turn it on, and I suspect it's the drain hole, but I've searched around underneath the passenger side of the car and found nothing..any specific location and maybe what it actually looks like?
View 3 RepliesHaving issues with there Grand AM over heating? I've got a 99 Grand AM SE , & it's over heating. I cannot drive it more then 5 minutes without it starting to over heat. I'm getting no where fast with this vehicle.
View 2 Replies2006 Toyota Camry LE (4 cyl) with 149,500 miles. All maintenance up to date.
Over the past month, anytime I drive over 80 mph within 15 minutes, the CEL comes on with the code P0420. I read the code and erase it. The funny thing is typically I'm getting very good gas mileage during that tankful when the CEL comes on. I've read that it is likely the downstream oxygen sensor and I plan to replace it. (In February, I replaced the air/fuel sensor). My two questions are:
a) What is the part number for the oxygen sensor (non-California emissions)? I want to make sure I get the right part.
b) Why the CEL comes on after travel over 80 mph? Is this coincidence or is there a reason why this happens?
I have a 1997 Ford Taurus LX v6 DOHC. The car has almost 150000 miles. After driving the car for about 30 - 45 mins, I turn it off. About 20 mins later, I go to turn on the car and it has trouble starting and stay running. I turn the key to start it and it begins to sputter and then cuts off. When this happens, the RPM goes up and down and never gets to 700 - 800 RPM. After waiting for about 10 mins, the car finally starts but I have to push on the gas pedal to get it started and kept running. Once started, it runs fine. The car has enough gas, the fuel pump kicks on, and the oil level is full.
View 1 RepliesIt work... sometimes....
Last week, first time we use the AC this year (was over 30 celcius)... blowing hot air only, even after 15min drive... tried to turn the AC off/on.. switch to outside/inside, manual/auto etc..... no changes...
Back at home, remove the fuse cover to check both fuses, both OK, all in the dash about the AC is working but still blowing only hot air (restarted the car couple of times)...........
1 week later (today).. I take it ... (24 Celsius outside)... work #1.. i made some stop (turning the car off) and it worked all the morning.. i try to switch On/off........ work every time......
After lunch i need to go get my son, so i try it again (3-4 hours between the 2)... do not work anymore.. only hot air.. try everything again... even turning the car off with AC ON (or OFF) and restart... samething!... thats really weird....
This problem started at the beginning of this winter. So I started to idle for 2 mins and the car was shifting without an issue.
However, now it is completely stuck and wont shift to 3rd gear even if I drive for 15 mins at 60mph.