Passat (B5) :: Small Leak Right Between The Catalytic Converters
Dec 9, 2006
I recently went to my mechanic after living with a very small leak right between the catalytic converters and the transmission for about 4 months. (it dropped a dime-sized mark about once every 5 days.) he said it was the rear output seal on the transmission but wouldnt touch it since there was no easy way to get to it and didn't want to drop the whole exhaust system. so off to vw dealership (wow, i guess a lot of people complained because they replaced everyone there and they're more friendly and efficient. my car usually sat there for 3 weeks before they even looked at it. (appointment mean nothing to those people.) but after dropping off my car i got a call within an hour telling me it was a cracked ventilation hose. they ordered the part and repaired it within a week (another first.) i also had them change the trans fluid and filter and the car ran smoother and a lot better and i checked for 2 weeks for leaks and none were there but within the past week, it's back and leaking the same way. the puddle is about the size of a penny so back to vw on monday.
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'05 GLX, 55k miles. Got an MIL light last week and it showed a P0421 code. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the right bank catalytic converter. That was last Friday. Fast forward to Weds. of this week. MIL comes back on and mileage drops noticeably, but power doesn't seem affected. Back to dealer, they end up replacing the other cat. Does this seem normal? I'm trying to figure out what may have led to this. Car is basically stock. I do my own oil changes (never overfill) and swapped out the spark plugs at 45k miles with Bosch Iridiums. [IMG] [URL] .....
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The vehicle is a 2001.5 Passat 4 Motion V6. 120,000 miles on the Passat.
The original Cats were replaced 1 month ago after a service station deemed them dead. When the vehicle failed emissions.
The codes were p0430 and P0420 and P411.
Before that about a year ago The O2 sensors were replaced.
After 2 new catalytic converters were installed. The vehicle is still throwing p0420 and p0430 codes.
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Getting multiple CEL's for the catalytic converters and cylinder misfires. Looking for threads that address these particular codes ie. 0431, 0421, 0300. 0303, 0306. I have a feeling that these are being caused from a vacuum leak and/or needing a reflash for the ECU.
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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The catalytic converters are very hot and the one upper left, when looking into the engine, is even red. The engine runs less than 10 minutes a the converters become very hot. I think when the engine run another 30 minutes, then I have a firework.
And that's not all. If the engine is idling, it's everything o. k. But if accelerates over 2.500 RPM, then it smokes as a locomotive. The smoke is white, dense and it smells like unburned fuel.
So I ask, are the converters blocked and I need to change them, or is the engine before death?
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I have some rust building on the heat shield of my cats on my 2001 Nissan Frontier.. I had a weld done to keep it from rattling after replacing the OEM muffler. It there anything I can put on it to retard the rusting process on the shield and will that affect my emissions?
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My son-in-law has a 2006 Honda Accord with over 160,000 miles on it. About 8 months ago, the check engine light came on. The code said the down stream oxygen sensor was bad. He took it to a Honda dealer and they replaced the sensor and now the check engine light is back on with the same code. Can the catalytic converter have gone bad and can it have made the oxygen sensor go bad too?
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My Equinox had problems from when I bought it used at 23K miles. The evap hose recall was installed wrong and broke. The traction control went out and shut down my car in mid-drive (twice). Computer modules went bad. Timing chain had to be replaced. Then is was using 3 or more quarts of oil before reaching 3000 miles after an oil change, with no puddles on the ground. I received a letter from GM after it reached 120k miles, but the dealership was good enough to replace the whole engine anyway due to "problems" with this year and model. The catalytic coverters were bad at the time but not replaced though the "disappearing oil" from the bad engine seems to have caused that. What can I do to get this resolved without having to spend $1500-$2000 of my own money, that I don't have right now? (oh, one wheel hub assembly has just gone bad too)
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I have recently picked up a 2005 F350 with the 5.4, which has 212k on it. Has a check engine light on for P0420 and P0430, as well as some kind of a 'ignition coil 'D'', I forgot which code it was as I deleted them at first to see which would come back. After driving it, the P0420 and the P0430 came back, but not the other, yet probably. I'm guessing the misfire due to the ignition coil caused the cats to go bad and the 420/430 codes, unless these codes are coincidental and the cats went due to high mileage.
Either way, I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the cats and was wondering what is the cheapest route. Should I get individual cats and have a shop weld them on? Should I go to Advance Auto parts or Auto Zone and get the whole pipe with the cats attached to them already and then get them installed? I anything will involve welding, I would have to bring it in to a shop. Also, in regards to the ignition coil misfire, what a good way to check which one it is?
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I bought this truck (2011 F-350 6.2l) used a month ago with 125000 miles on it. Of course the MIL light came on as soon as the ink dried. The codes read PO420 & PO430 and my local Ford Service said replace the cats. I said what is the cause of the failure, ford said here is a list of possible causes but it's not reading other codes so they don't know what caused the failure.
Well, I went ahead and replaced both catalytic converters, all four O2 sensors, and I replaced all sixteen spark plugs. Guess what, the MIL light is back on not 24 hours later reading PO420, PO430, and now PO620 and PO645. So I just went back to Ford today and all they did was cleared the codes and told me to call if the light comes back on. They said my PCM is up to date but why it's now reading GENCOM code or AC Clutch code.
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My 2007 3.6L 4Motion wagon was in for the 40k service. Everything was fine with the service, but they noticed that there was a small leak in the rear differential.
It's covered under warranty, but the troubling thing is that they can't figure out how to stop the leak. They are calling VW tech.
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Today I noticed a small coolant leak under passenger side bumper. What it could be leaking from?
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Today I did a oil change (70k). While under the car I notice a small leak from the back side of the engine. When I got home, I had the chance to remove the engine cover to investigate and clean the engine up a bit.
I found that the bolts in the rear of the valve cover had a little puddle of oil around them. I took a T-30 torque bit and was able to get a least a full turn on the rear bolts and about half turn on the middle ones. Fronts were about a quarter turn. Check your valve cover bolts.
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I've gotten the P0442 "small leak - intermittent" code and "service now" warnings on my 2007 2.0T Passat. I have also occasionally gotten the "check gas cap" warning and icon on the dash, but it always goes away quickly. The car runs fine. The VCDS scan shows as follows:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Part No SW: 3C0 907 115 S HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: --H14--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 0404010A19070160
Shop #: WSC 24125 444 85663
VCID: 3041CBF8A31AF19890B
1 Fault Found:
001090 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0442 - 001 - Small Leak - Intermittent
[Code] ....
If I clear this code, it comes back within a day or two of driving, but not immediately. I have already replaced the gas cap and N80 valve. The other component I'm aware of possibly failing is the check valve. It's just downstream of the N80 valve, circled in red here:.
I put a vacuum on this part, and it had a very slow leak, losing about 3psi (starting from 20psi) every minute. That seems too small a leak for this to be a problem? Is this thing supposed to be absolutely air tight? Since this part is more expensive ($80) and bit more hassle to replace than the N80 valve, I'd like to know more about this before I just blindly replace it.
If this check valve isn't the problem, then what to check? Although the car runs fine, I need an inspection and would prefer to not have to clear the codes and hope for the best just before taking it in.
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When I got my 60K service last weekend, the dealer called me and explained that I had a "very small internal leak fro an emissions canister that was leaking into the intake/manifold". He said something like that. He also said that it doesn't do anything to the performance of the car, but that the leak will increase over time and will throw a MIL.
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Threw this code p0442 evap emission control small leak. I see its a popular code to have....
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Had a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
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I'm just curious, I have milltek catback and lately, i feel like I can hear a very small exhaust leak somewhere under the car. I could be way wrong because I get super paranoid once I hear an odd noise, so anyway would a small leak light up the CEL?
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We suspect that we do indeed have a small leak in the radiator. If we keep the fluid to the full mark, can we drive it without concern. We do realize that is will have to be replace but we are hoping to drive it for a while longer.
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Took my Camry into the dealership for some preemptive work. Mechanic located a small oil leak under the car. Went through several iterations of cleaning/driving it for a few days to see if the issue would reoccur, unfortunately it seems to been a consistent leak (small).
The mechanic was unable to fully pinpoint where the leak is coming from (something about the oil riding down the power steering line down). We started off with two potential locations:
washers around/near the VVTI line, the housing on the engine. I've been wanting the metal VVTI line for a while, so I went ahead and replaced it. Unfortunately, the leak continued.
I was advised that in order to work on the housing on the engine (describe as possible bad seal) they would have to remove the power steering and the engine. Estimate to be 15-20 hours. They would remove the housing and reapply the seal.
Would like to reach out to the members of TN for advice. As of right now, the leak is very small and there has been no noticeable oil accumulation on the drive way. Still, this issue is somewhat annoying.
I've attached a pic, there's a very small drip of oil. It's located on mid/passenger side of the bottom bay.
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