Passat (B5) :: Slow To Start / Few Cranks Required For The Engine To Turn Over
Nov 2, 2008
My wife went to use our 2004.5 Passat V6 4Motion and it takes quite a few cranks for the engine to turn over and start. It sounds like the battery is losing it's charge. When running, none of the idiot lights show anything.
I have a couple questions: Could the alternator be damaged and isn't charging the battery or is it possible for the battery to be going after only 4.5 years?
If it's just the battery, how easy is it to replace? I've done them on previous cars, but with all of the electronics and stuff, I'm concerned since it's behind the firewall and I've read stories about it losing all of the electronics. I couldn't see an easy way to remove it, but I didn't spend much time looking.
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My 2k Passat has 130k on it. I have done regular oil changes and had the timing belt done 6 months ago. It is in Las vegas right now, as it wouldnt start, and I was informed that it needs a new engine. It ended up starting when the guys at the shop squirted tranny fluid down a plug hole...but has been smoking. I was told this means I have a blown head and the engine would have to be torn apart to check out the bottom half.
I am almost inclined to continue paying to store the car until I pay off the 5k that I still owe on it, just to turn around and junk it...but I feel like maybe that would be rash.
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My 95 Honda accord 4 cy. vtech, will turn over but not will start, you can try unlimited times and it just cranks, but no fire or start.... UNLESS I wait about 30 seconds first. In this time what happens is, for 15 seconds the usual dash lights are on, including check engine light, at 16 seconds the D4 green transmission light starts to flash rapidly. At 30 seconds the main relay can be heard to finally click in, and the fuel pump whirs and primes the fuel system for 1.5 seconds and immediately the check engine light turns off, the D4 light turns off, and the fuel pump also stops whirring. AT this point, at any time from here on out, (until you turn the car off again) you can turn the key the rest of the way to start, and the engine cranks over and now immediately starts right up!
Sometimes all the above happens just as described, but the D4 transmission position light does not start to flash. Everything else happens the same way and timing and after 30 seconds the car will start. NOTES: a. The obd trouble codes do not flash any codes when the jumper is put in place to read the codes. b. I have removed and checked the main relay, looked ok, and just in case I re-soldered all connections on the main relay board. c.the car drives and shifts fine. d. The time frames are exactly the same every time. Electronically perfectly the same, like the computer finally decides, OK go ahead and work now. Or like the car is attempting by some programmed response to say that something is wrong and needs attention.
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My cousin has a 99 1.8T passat and its been sitting for a bit so initially I thought it was the battery but it is fine. The car cranks and it turns over but it will not start. It was fine than it was left for a few days when it was cold and has not started since.
I am not too farmiliar with the 1.8T .... I pulled out the dipstick and found the oil to be a little cloudy, that got me worried but last time it was driven the car was fine. It also looks kinda green but I am not sure if its the coolant since the coolant in the reservior is red or maybe orange.
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i have a 2004 passat 1.8t just hit 110k miles on it and a warning light that said stop engine oil pressure service manual came on and shortly after the engine died. it like putted like i ran out of gas. the engine cranks but doesnt turn over. i had it towed to a place and they said its the timing belt. another mechanic said that the engine could be blown. i researched the warning light and found a class action law suit against vw for engine sludge problems.
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I have a 2005 SE 3.3L engine with 115000Miles,
When you turn the ignition key , you have to wait for it to crank 6-7 times before it starts. whether engine is cold or warm it makes no difference.
I was wondering how your engines ( 3.3Ls) behave, does that start immediately after 1-2 cranks, or it is normal for this type of engines to take 6-7 turns ?
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When I turn the key to start the engine, it makes the sound (I don't know what to call it) that it makes before the engine actually starts but it just keeps doing that. The dash has the battery light on in red so I think that might be the problem. It also flashed "STOP" at me on the dash so I stopped fiddling with it.
The dealership is only a few blocks away but they are closed until tuesday. What is usually the problem in this case? I know almost nothing about how cars work.
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I went to start my car this morning it cranks and nothing it is not firing at all, and I do not hear the fuel pump when I open the door like I usually do. It just happened all the sudden. Is there a way to check fuel pressure in these in the W8? Also any known problems to make them do this? So irritating...
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I've noticed that she has to turn over a few more times than normal to start up. I don't have any engine mods and I'm approaching 10k miles. I've found a couple posts where people say their cars are a little harder to start when it's cold out, but I live in Hawaii and the temperature is never below the mid 60's.
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2001 passat, 1.8, manual 140K. Last Wednesday I went to drive south, and i turned the key. The engine cranked but it didn't start. After trying for a few minutes, and the engine stumbling after a few times, the engine started. RPMs were low, but after a few seconds everything was fine. The outside temp was probably 15-20f.
Over the next few days the car sat, except for once where I moved the car (outside temp was 35+), and it started right up. As soon as the temperature dropped to 18 or so, it did the same thing, crank and crank then start. I dont remember if it was then or wednesday when I got a CEL while trying to start the car. I checked it and got a P0321. Cleared it and havent seen it since.
Fast forward to sunday, morning was the same thing, about 10 tries until the engine started. I got a jump start in the afternoon thinking it was the battery. It started right up (temp was 30+?). The next day I decided to roll start it, started right up (temp was 15?).
I replaced the battery monday thinking that was the cause. But everything is the same, when its cold I have to crank and crank. Once the car is running, the RPMs are low. If I give it gas, it stalls. Once the RPMs come up, if I stop the engine, it starts right back up. Thinking it is a fuel problem, I played with the fuse.
Granted, the engine was warm when I did this. Engine running. Pull fuse out, after a few seconds engine stalls. Try to start, no go. Put fuse back in, engine starts right up on first try. So now we go back the CEL. I thought at first it was just a side effect of cranking and cranking the engine. But now I think there might be a problem with a sensor, engine speed sensor maybe? Coolant? crank?
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I am going to forego the 25,000 maintenance and do the oil changes & such myself from here on out. How do I make the message go away?
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My Mazda has 50k miles on it. I have recently gotten a new job where I park my car in a covered parking garage.When the car is parked in this parking garage It cranks fine but it is slow to start. The car does this odd behavior only inside the parking garage when I am coming home from work. It starts fine in the morning. Recently I did not start it for 2 days, and it cranked up and started just fine. I am not sure what exactly is wrong with it. My other question is how long is too long, is a 4 second start time too long or am I just over thinking this one.
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From a cold start, my '89 Civic starts and runs just fine - on a short trip. If I shut it off for 15 minutes and let it sit, then try to restart it, it cranks REALLY slow, misfires and won't start (like the cylinders are fighting each other). The battery's brand new, with plenty of juice. So the next time it happened, I disconnected all 4 plug wires - it cranked nice and fast, no resistance. This leads me to believe that the ignition timing is getting messed up once the engine warms up. I think the coil is fine, because the plugs are firing when the wires are connected. I'm thinking it could be a bad sensor that acts up when it gets warm. My prime suspect is the TDC/Crank Sensor. Does the TDC/Crank Sensor can fail when warm?
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It's a 99 f350 7.3 diesel powerstroke. About 180k miles I think.
It cranks fine. I just changed the glow plugs(all were dead) but when you try and start from cold, it takes about 7-10 seconds to fire. The oil res is full, tried disconnecting the EOP sensor, still fires up and takes just as long. There is one near the oil filter, and that seems to not be it either.
Doesn't smoke, no oil leaks that I know of. Not sure what else to check before sending it to another shop to get put on a diagnostics machine. I read about the IPR, but it has no problems when running. Only problem is a very long time to start. Also changed the fuel filter.
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I dont know if this is related but my ignition switch went a few weeks ago, I got the part in the mail this week and was planning on changing it today, but a few days ago my 99 Passat v6 started bucking, kinda like it did when i needed motor mounts...but my engine is really weak and rough. I opened the hood and saw that my air filter hose was disconnected right after the MAF (or at least i think its the MAF).... I don't know how long its been sucking up dirty air. but does that sound like they are related? a friend of mine said if i can see the butterfly valve in the air hose, open it up and spray a can of carb cleaner in it, put the filter back on, start the car and let it run, then do it again with another can and it should fix it. I cant see the butterfly air valve in the hose, since the hose goes down behind the engine. Should i just spray it in anyway? or does have to be press on the gas pedal...
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OK, after some bearing issues I replaced the crankshaft with a reman. The engine is now in, but it is not turning over like I think it should. It just feels too tight, and cranks slow. It cranks smooth, nothing hitting. It is hard to turn with a wrench on the front bolt. I am wondering if I messed up on the torque on the rod bearings.
I torqued them according to the book. First to 29 to 33 ft lbs, then rotated an additional 90 to 120 degrees. I went with the lower of the numbers, 29 foot pounds then an additional 90 degrees. The mains I tightened to 30 ft. lbs. then an additional 90 degrees.
Are these the correct specs? I did smear a little grease on the main journals before installing, but did not do this for the rods as the book says. Is this maybe something to do with my issue?
I did not measure with plastiguage to see, I didn't realize I was out of the stuff and didn't want to drive 50 miles away to get some! I am also wondering if heating up the bearings on one rod journal might have warped the rod and is binding not allowing it to turn. I did notice when I put it back together it turned a little hard, but figured it would be ok once it started.
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I hear a knocking sound for a few seconds from the rear of my 2004 Audi S4 when I turn the key to the on position. It is independent of the engine, this knocking occurs with or without starting the engine. Here is a recording of the sound: [URL] ..... What could be making that noise?
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I went to start the car today and it will turn over but doesn't start. I tried to see if it had any codes but not codes present. What should I try? It has 82k and I am original owner. What does the 100k warranty cover?
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I just bought this 97 passat vr6 today off of a friend currently don't run, friend told me that 1 day while driving it just shut off, would not start waited a while fired back up got it home now will not start, so i messed with it today took coil pack off had a little crack fixed it, car started ran maybe 45seconds then shut off and just cranks won't turn over, is this due to the coil pack or maybe crank sensor or knock sensor??
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2001 Buick regal started and ran left town for 10 days came back cranks but wont start I don't here fuel pump engage when I turn on ignition...
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I have a 2008 Kia Sportage LX. Lately, when I have put my key in the ignition and start to turn it, it starts automatically. On my ignition I have Off, Lock, ACC, On, and Start. When I start to turn my key to Lock position my car cranks up automatically.
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