Took my car to the dealer for it's 80K service and asked them to check the tranny because it's been slipping (hesitation) during upshift and occasionally banging into gear during downshift. I figured they would suggest the BG tranny fluid flush but got a call from the service advisor saying they found the fluid to smell burnt and it was black. 1999Pazzat V6...
View 8 RepliesMy wife's been complaining off and on about a clunking noise with her '06 Passat 2.0T I couldn't get it to replicate; maybe three complaints on the last 10 months? I wrote it off to the transmission, as it occasionally clunks down into gear on downshift; done this since new, maybe twice per year.
Anyway, she just got the tires rotated last week. And oil change has been at the dealer last six months.
That's why I was shocked when I was changing the front pads tonight. I removed the left wheel, and a fractured sway bar was staring me in the face, end link dangling loose.. The brake was far from fresh...lots of rust and crust on the brake.
I can't see whether it was hit, other than the brake. Everything else looks good. I'm just floored that VW dealer, and especially Discount Tire, didn't catch this during routine work.
Six speed GTI Manual for those that dont know its a 2.0 TSI. Fifth gear grinds all day long when i downshift or upshift. They have given me a service car to drive around in, until its fixed. 25k on the OD and a 5 year mechanical warranty, i have 2 years left on the rest. Third gear doesn't go in easily, its like i miss third gear all the damn time, obviously its not right when the rpm's go above 3k.
View 18 Replies1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
I don't put many miles on my car, so even though I'm going on 2 years my 2010 GTI (6 speed manual) only has 11k miles on it. Over the last few months I have notice that when starting out in first gear on a hill, as I let the clutch out I will sometimes (not always) hear a squealing noise that isn't insanely loud but definitely noticeable and sounds like a cross between chewbacca and an elephant. It goes away once the clutch is fully let out and I start moving. Over the last couple days I've noticed a hesitation in the throttle occasionally, as if the power is just dying. But, the rpms don't suddenly rev up when this happens (as I would expect if the clutch were slipping). It just feels like the power is dying and hitting the gas has no effect -- the car just slows down. Happened today in 4th gear going about 45 mph -- car just started to slow. 5-10 seconds later it recovered.
Could this all be due to my clutch? If so, can it be adjusted or does it require a new clutch? It's under warranty. Problem is it's intermittent and I just know I'll drive all the way out to the dealer and it won't do it on command. I am APR stage 1. But I don't drive hard at all.
So i just noticed this issue the other day. If I downshift from 6th to 5th the car hesitates before it starts to accelerate, this only happens for 5th every other gear is fine. This only happens downshifting from 6th to 5th. What is going on?
-apr flash
-just rolled 56k
I drive a 02 Passat GLS 1.8t 5 speed and whenever i down shift to slow down it feels like the clutch will catch and then slip and catch and then slip!?!?! the car will "jerk" really hard when this happens and the front end will drop..
View 1 RepliesWhen car is fully warmed up, I notice in Sport+ (manual mode) when accelerating in 2nd gear right around 2000-2200RPMs, I get a slipping/hesitation before it corrects itself and is fine. Mostly with slow acceleration...fast acceleration doesn't really trigger this.
Also when decelerating and coming to slow stop, sometimes it jams/jams into first gear on its own. Doesn't happen all the time but sometimes.
Overall, I still like the tranny and finding which mode works best in which situation like bumper2bumper traffic, light traffic, slow driving, etc...
Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
I have posted on here before about this very issue, thinking it was primarily the transmission. In additon to a hard upshift/downshift (it almost feels like getting a little "kick" from behind while in the truck) I was getting a flashing O/d light, etc.
Since then the tranny died. No shifting at all. I was able to find a usable replacement from another truck (the guy sideswipped a pole, and decided he was done with it, as he tweaked the front frame slightly), which was working fine (before the accident).
I swapped the units out (trans and T/C), and the truck has life again! No flashing O/D light, nice power, and good gas mileage (I went from pre-failure 15mpg to 20mpg now).
However, the kick has never gone away.
So, what next? How much "play" should there be in the driveshaft when the vehicle is parked? I can move it a little bit. Should I consider servicing/replacing the U-joints? Or should I now suspect the rear diff to be the culprit, and how can I best determine this?
Also, can you switch out one rear end for another? If you can, is there any any paricular one that is better to use for towing/hauling as opposed to, let's say, off-roading or city driving?
As for the vehicle in question, it's a 1995 Ranger XLT extended cab with a 3.0V6 and auto trans. I believe it's supposed to have a limited-slip diff, but how do I determine this?
Is there a way to VAG-COM a 2006 B6 to hold gears in Tiptronic mode? What I mean is, if I floor the car in 4th gear, then the car will automatically still downshift to like 2nd or third. Is there a way to keep the tranny from behaving this way?
View 5 RepliesWhy the paddles were on the steering wheel or, more specifically, why they'd move along with turning the steering wheel. It sometimes makes it hard to downshift going into a turn or upshifting coming out of out a turn, especially if you don't use the paddles a lot.
well, today, I got to drive one of these and the paddles are in a fixed position. it's MUCH easier to shift knowing where those paddles are at all times when driving faster than you're supposed to. of course I was doing a little spirited driving. downside to that car (only a little) is that it's LOUD. you like the sound of an R?
This is what is happening:
1. When you start driving the car it accelerates fine until it gets to second gear where it keeps accelerating, then you feel a jolt, the odometer jumps 1-2 notches, and it switches into third.
2. When stopping it downshifts fine until second gear getting ready to switch into first to come to a complete stop and again it "jolts"
3. (Sometimes happens) When driving ~25 mph or ~40 mph while continuously accelerating you let-off the gas and then reapply, it stops accelerating and kind of "sputters" and can not accelerate anymore, I have to stop put it in Park and then again put it in Drive and only after that it works fine.
I have taken it to the VW Service and the mechanic could not replicate what I said was happening so I drove with him in the car and replicated the first two steps 3 out of 6 times. He told me that they checked the codes and could not find anything malfunctioning. I told him that clearly something was wrong with the transmission and I wanted something to be done. He agreed that he also felt what I was talking about but it was not enough to come to a conclusion to what was wrong. I mentioned that I wanted this to be written down in the service report, because if something happens they will be aware.
The problem now is that the "jolting" and the stalling-out has gotten worse since the visit to the service 1 month ago. What might be happening and what I need them to repair/change on my car. I am planning on making a visit sometime this week. The first two steps happen when the car is cold or when I switch over form Tip-Tronic to automatic. But that is not always the case.
I have a 1999 Passat Sedan, V6 with automatic transmission, 62K miles. The Transmission has started slipping from 1st > 2nd, particularly up hills. Took it to my local mechanic who referred me to the AAMCO next door. They changed out the fluid and filter. No luck; still slipping. They want to do a transmission repair (soft parts) for $1650 with a 12-month warranty. For what it's worth, the TCU was replaced last spring (sunroof drain clog > flood > destroyed TCU and a lot more). Everything was working OK this spring after the repairs.
View 10 RepliesSooo. As I accelerate it feels like my rear gear box is slipping or grinding? idk but its getting progressively worse.
View 13 RepliesI have a 1998 Windstar which just stopped shifting from first to second or third. I still have 1st and Reverse gear but no 2nd or 3rd. Feels like vehicle goes to neutral.
View 2 RepliesI have an 04 2.7 litre V6 AWD Santa Fe with 189235 KM , with a Shiftronic transmission, recently, while in "d", the transmission would feel like its slipping or perhaps trying to down shift, its hard to tell what it's doing really, but if you then slapped it over into shiftronic, it would operate fine, no slipping, locks into gear strongly, indicating that its not mechanical, but related to the computer controlling "drive" function of the transmission, I flushed the transmission just after the symptoms arrived (using the correct SP3 fluid) and this made no difference, the old fluid, although ready to be changed, was not burnt or blackend. I thought of getting it reflashed ( read it online) but I am not sure it will work, especially if its like a sensor or something.
View 3 RepliesI just recently bought an 06 Santa Fe with a 2.7l v6. It was a rebuild. It had been hit in the left wheel. The lot put a new fender, suspension parts, axle, etc. It only has 25k actual miles.
We took it on a 100 mile trip today. I noticed if I am going up hill and it has to downshift, it feels like it looses power. The car continues to slow... Like the tranny is slipping. I stopped at Walmart and found the tranny fluid wouldn't even register on the dipstick. I bought Valvoline max life tranny fluid that matches the sp3 specs in the manual. I had to add almost 3 quarts before it was full. I think they may have forgot to add fluid back to replace what leaked out after they replaced the axle It didn't seem to work though when I continued to drive. After I stopped and let it cool about 30 minutes, it did seem a little better.
I guess my question is should I replace the tranny fluid? If so, what should I replace it with? Is there anything else what could be causing this now?
After braking down to 15 or 20 mph my 2004 Trailblazer transmission has a slight hesitation and clunks when I start to give it the gas. Could this be due to a sticking modulator or some other issue?
View 1 RepliesAll stock 460 in a 1987 1-ton 4x4. The carb has lost it's cookies I think. It (all of the sudden) developed this massive flat spot right after I shift gears and open the throttle. It falls on its face, then catches and slams the whole damn truck.
Also pop-pop-pops really badly when I downshift and occasionally backfires when I shut it off. I'm (barely) smart enough to know that it's getting excess fuel dumped through the engine. I just pulled out both float adjusters, cleaned them, and reset float levels and it made no difference whatsoever.
It's my only vehicle and it's barely drivable.
Driving in normal mode and the transmission in auto. Once the car gets up to temp, (usually at a stop), move the gear selector to manual mode. If you punch it, I have not issues shifting from 1st to 2nd gear, but sometimes, the up shift paddle will need to be hit multiple times in 2nd before the car will shift to 3rd.
It seems to only happen the first time I go from auto mode to manual mode during a drive cycle. It happens on my car and another car I test drove.