I'm new to the VW world so I'm not entirely sure what this noise can be. That car seems to shake more than it normally would when going over uneven pavement, such as dips and holes. It also makes a terrible clanging noise. Now I know this model is renown for needing engine mount replacements...but it feels like it's the suspension.
View 3 RepliesSpring has arrived and the whoop-de-dues are reminding me that the suspension in my 2013 passat tdi is rather soft. it rides great on a smooth highway but i would be curious if there is a way to change the suspension so that it 'floats' less on uneven pavement and in tight turns?
My goals would be:
1. float less on uneven pavement
2. track flatter and smoother in tight turns at speed
3. maintain highway comfort or dam close to it (99% of my driving)
4. remain at stock height (i am not lowering this car up here!)
It may not be possible to achieve all of this but at this point i do not know what is possible or what the pros and cons are of any suggested changes. A quick search of 'tdi suspension' on vwvortex gave me a few hits but mostly for golf and jettas.
Have just leased 2008 pasat 2.0l turbo. Great engine but suspension has loud rumbles /noise on uneven pavement. Have lowered tire pressure to 30 . suspension noise still persists. only have 1500 miles. dealer says that everything is still to factory spec.
View 5 Replies2007 Touareg with 19",V6, with 10,700 miles
Problem: Noise or rattle in engine compartment, at low speed (less than 25miles/hour) on uneven pavement (not potholes). Can be replicated over and over.
The dealer acknowledge the noise and has tightened all suspension parts, greased all joints, replace front-right shock and bushings (for some reason the noise is more prevalent on Right side), put some sort of tool with sensors in different areas of the chassis to "hear" noise differences while driving to determine the culprit.
Description: To me, the noise sounds like there is something lose in either the engine compartment or the area where the wipers are located. Sort of like if there was something (plastic maybe) hitting the chassis (only at slow speeds - I cannot hear it when driving faster I guess because of engine and road noise). I have not been able to figure it out.
The noise was present only on another 2007 with 8K miles.
My 1997 cavalier convertible left side front bounces like crazy on bumps and uneven pavement. Installed new strut, and a new tire and balanced. Still does same thing. Rides great on smooth road. All suspension bushings look good and there is no play anywhere.
View 4 RepliesSince Ive got my 2010 Tiguan 2.0 TSI, I hear a creaking noise coming from the front right suspension when riding over uneven pavement. The dealer said it is a common known problem from many Tiguans caused by the engine mount and that VW recommends the change of that part.
The new engine mount is slightly different from the one that is installed in my car. I am still waiting for the part to arrive and to be changed. Meanwhile, I spoke with another 2010 Tiguan owner, here in Brazil, whose car has already received the new part.
He said that the creaking noise has gone but now he feels more vibration coming from the engine and a kind of "diesel-engine-sound" when accelerating... Location of the engine mount: [URL] ....
The "old" engine mount bears the code:
5N0 199 262 G
5AY CN
M086
09/03/27
[URL] ....
The "new" engine mount bears the code:
5N0 199 262 E
5AY CN
M082
09/03/10
[URL] ....
I assume that the first number is the part number, the last is the manufacturing date and the others are either car model or manufacturer code or anything else. Note that the part number is the same, except by the letter suffix: "G" in the "old" one and "E" in the "new" part. Well, the suffix designation does not make sense for an evolutionary design...
My questions are:
1) Is it a new design or is it a roll back to an older part that does not cause that problem although it was probably modified due to another issue?
2) Is this part number specific for 2.0 TSI engine or is it the same for other engines (petrol/diesel)?
3) Which engine mount have you got on your cars?
I've had my 2010 Prius II for less than a month and am not particularly happy with it. I've experienced a slight surge forward when braking on uneven pavement at low speeds at least 4-5 times in 900 miles. This isn't something I can duplicate on demand. When I took it in to the dealer after the first time and asked if the ABS fix had been made to it, they told me my car wasn't part of the "campaign" (aka recall) because it was manufactured in March and the ABS problem had been solved by then. However, it sounds exactly like the problem people were discussing in Jan/Feb.
Once when I put it in reverse in a parking lot it lurched backward (my foot was on the brake) suddenly -- not far, but it was an alarming sensation. It also has a high pitched, barely audible whine when moving (can't hear it if I put on the radio). The mechanic said that was the normal sound of the battery, but I don't remember it from other cars I test drove. Is it normal?
I'm keeping an eye on the dome lights every time I park because I found them on one night (they'd probably never shut off after I parked the car during daylight hours) -- it could have been that the light was switched to "on" rather than "door," but now I'm paranoid and constantly check to make sure they're off when they're supposed to be, for fear of wearing down that little 12 v battery. Not fun.
I'm the proud owner of a 2008 RX350 with low mileage (40,000 miles - US model). I purchased it a year ago and I haven't had any mechanical problems. However it's been 3 months that I have this rattle from the rear, especially when driving over uneven pavement.
I had the vehicle checked by a local mechanic but he couldn't find any loose part at the exception of the spare tire plastic cover underneath that looked a bit flimsy but he couldn't tell for sure... I even did an oil change at a Lexus dealership and they didn't find anything when they hoisted the car but they didn't look hard either....
I've disconnected the tonneau cover and put the release latches, for the tonneau, in the lock position (towards the front of the vehicle). That didn't solve the problem. Lastly I removed my plate cover and still didn't resolve it.
Anyway, the rattle seems to come from somewhere underneath, around the trunk area and is loud when you hit bump or drive on uneven road and it's driving me crazy!
I have been working through a variety of problems on my 01 AWM with TIP. Im down to two issues that maybe related but Im not really sure. The car idles very rough once warmed up (idles smoother cold). The other is in the way the car delivers its power. Its a un -smooth, kind of pulses at different times jerky and its inconsistent. There are currently no lights on and hasnt been for almost a year. On the last scan the only code that was stores was P01040 (cat). Here is what I have done so far;
Replaces plugs and coil packs Replaced fuel filter Cleaned MAF and TB New N75 valve New DV Cleaned pancake valve replaced 6 vacumn lines with leaks.
Maybe Im missing something here but I think im pretty much down to the PCV system under the intake. Should I just order a rebuild kit from ECS and dig in?
I'm having a problem with a rattle that's in the front end of the car. I only hear it when I'm driving over "off roads" (uneven terrain) and not streets. The sound is not entirely Metallic but sometimes I get to hear rubber against rubber. I already changed motor mounts and stuts mounts but the rattle is still there. Is there anything else I should look for? I've had this rattle for over 5 months now!
View 5 RepliesHeard a pop under the hood and now my engine appears to be lowered and uneven.... bad engine mounts? The car does vibrate a bit. i do have drive easy CPO coverage although. should i even bother driving it to the dealership or have VW pick it up for me...
View 24 RepliesI have a CPO passat and it drives like a dream, except when I'm cruising on city (NYC) streets at about 15 mpg on uneven roads. I'd recently noticed a very slight hissing sound coming from the front end. Ever threw one of those silent but violent hissing farts? Yeah it sounds like that. And I'm not even talking about bumps, just uneven roads like driving over a man hole cover. It's quite annoying and with the summer coming i want to drive with my windows down. I'm going to take it to the dealership, but I'd like to pinpoint the issue to them. oh yeah, it only hisses when the car is hot, so it's quiet right after a cold start.
View 5 RepliesIn between 100km/h(60mph )- 120km/h( mph guessing like 70) the car appears to be shaking.
View 7 RepliesEvery time I try going over 50 mph, my car starts shaking. I can feel it throughout the cabin and in my steering wheel and gas pedal. What would be the cause of this. My CV's were both replaced a few months ago so it would not be those. [IMG] [URL] ...
View 13 RepliesNew wheels installed! They look great, but I have some shaking when I accelerate from 60 to say 90 mph! The hub centric rings are in place! Also before I installed the new wheels I hit a big pot hole and a had some low to medium howling noise coming from the front end! The hollowing is still present with the new wheels but I also have the shaking now!
View 5 RepliesWhen I bought the Passat I told the dealer there was some "shaking" and they said they would take care of it. But so far they didn't and the problem seems to be intermittent but I can always feel the car shaking a bit. Sometime in the steering (un-balanced kind of thing) and sometime it's the whole body (since I can see my clothes shaking and feeling it in my back).
The problem seems to be worst when I released the gas pedal. But at any speed I can feel this "jumping" sensation which at lower speed it feels a bit worst. I can feel it more on new/even pavement.
Everytime I bring it in they check it but doesn't seem to show as much as when I drive it randomly.
Had a constant CEL two week ago, the car was shaking because the misfire. I went to an european auto shop, it ended up with replacing the intake manifold valve and charged me $700. They explained the valve could not be closed, and that caused a misfire(s). There were three fault codes on report.
This week, I got another constant CEL. I went to the shop and they charged me $50 for scanning the code. and told me it is a misfire on Cylinder 2. there is no fault on intake manifold valve. They dont fix that for free. I went back home and open the engine cover. The ignition coil 2 was replaced. Now, I really doubt if they replaced my valve or not. maybe just changed the coil and reset the alarm.
I have swapped coil 2 and coil 3 to see if the fault follows the coil. How can I verify if they replaced my manifold valve?
I have vw passat 2001 model the whole car shakes in 4rth and 5th gear and i have bough vcds and tried to play a lot with it all these reading taken in idle position i also tried to do a full scan but that doesnt shown any thing related to the problem also can bus has no communication may be its faulty.
Here are some screen shots....
I just put on KW v1 coils and 19 inch merc wheels about four weeks ago, and the car shakes over 55 mph. The tires are balanced( had them rebalanced to double check myslef) but I haven't had the car aligned yet. I had coils before or other cars but never had them aligned because of always moving the car up and down and never had the problem of a shaking car. Will getting it aligned fix everything.
View 15 RepliesGetting the bottom of the engine shaking problem? We have a new 07 2.0 Wagon and it has been driving fine. This afternoon after getting off the freeway (after about a 20 mile drive) came up to a stop light. Car in D, foot on brake.....car starts shaking. Running really rough. Once foot was let off, car rolled off as normal and then shaking went away. Happened 2 more times while waiting to get the a parking spot. After 10 minutes started it up and all is fine. No warning lights and it runs as expected. It has 250 miles on it.
View 6 RepliesMy 99' passat 1.8t is shaking and has zero power.... literally almost won't move. It seems to be misfiring because i just changed the plugs about a week ago and this started 3 days ago. I did not do any additional gaping to the plugs. What the gap for the plug should be or why this is happening to my car?
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