Passat (B5) :: Serious Pop And Crunch When Rear Window Rolled Up
Aug 28, 2011
I rolled up my left rear window a week ago and got a serious pop and crunch from it. I now have taken the time to take it apart and found that the cable has snapped and the carriage is in pieces. I'm not going to bother replacing any of it. To the point.. the motor has a crap load of wires going to it. I would like to get rid of it all together, brace up the rear window(s) and never look back. Is there any reason why I could not just unplug and remove the motor and its control or is there something else running form or through it too?
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I have a 97 xlt fully loaded. Have been noticing once and a while the battery drained enough not to start. Have been attributing it to my son not turning off the dvd player in the back. I was wrong. Went out this evening to pick up company van, and the truck was dead. When i reached in to unlock the door, i accidently pushed on the power window switch and the window rolled out....key was not in the ignition. It quit when I opened the door.
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I just finished doing the actuator repair on the passenger lock that was explained on this site. Put everything back together and checked my window. The window rolled down, but nothing for up. The switch on the drivers door would not work the window either. Pulled the switch apart and with my ohm meter was getting power to switch, but no other wires gave me a reading. So I figured it was my switch and went down and bought a new one. Put new switch in nothing. I then tried the drivers door switch and window worked? What to try now. I pulled fuse #7 that is said to be for my windows/locks during all this and all the windows except the passenger worked????
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Recently had a driver's side window replaced in my 99 GMC Sierra. Also had the regulator and a door handle replaced as they were broken as well, but I knew this going in. Was informed I needed a new master switch and had them order/install.
Today I turned the key on and the window began rolling down on it's own. I hit the switch to stop it, which it did, but only as long as I held the switch down. Now the window is all the way down and will not roll back up. Passenger side window works fine from either switch. Door locks work as well for whatever that's worth.
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My driver side window makes a noise when it is being rolled down. About half way down, it sounds like it is rubbing against something. This noise only happens when it's being rolled down, not up. The funny thing is, this noise started happening after I got a sub installed. I doubt it has anything to do with the installation but just wanted to point that out. Could it just be that it is dirty inside? I also have my windows tinted but the noise came way after that.
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I have a 2001 Ford F150 Super Crew. Last year it got really cold (2 degrees) and I went to roll down the driver's side front window to get ice off of my mirror. Something broke and my window fell down into my door. I was able to fish the window out and it rolls up and holds the window in place. It will go down a couple of inches, but when it falls it kinda falls forward and then to the bottom.
I have the panel off again right now because my wife used my truck and forgot about the window and I had to go through the process of getting it out again. So I figure now is a good time to fix it.
What broke and what I need to do to fix it? As I say, it will catch and work fine once I pull the window to a certain height and then it seals just fine as long as I don't use it. I looked at other threads and none seemed to fit exactly what mine is doing.
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I bought my GS new and it has 40K miles now. It is a 2010 GS AWD. Yesterday I get off work, a hot day, I get in the car, started the car, and passenger front window rolled down by it self. I tried to rolled it back up and it would not go up. I shut the car off and re-started and was able to roll it up.
I thought maybe it was the heat. The next day it happened again, but this time while I was driving. There are no funny noises coming from in side the door and no water has ever gotten in there. I also never leave the windows cracked instead I raise the sun roof up for heat to escape. I find this very odd self-operating window. The rest of the windows work just fine.
Battery has never been disconnected. what may be causing this window to operate on its own? a lose wire maybe?
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Everything I've seen in the forum refers to alarms activating and how to turn them off, my problem is the opposite. Last year I performed a simple injector cup procedure on my 2000 7.3 Excursion which took about 3 months, during which time I had my batteries removed. When I finally buttoned everything back up I noticed that my alarm does the "chirp", but that I can leave a window rolled down and open any door without it going off. How to get this to reset? I can hit the panic button and get the alarm, but as a security feature it's not working.
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Its strange but since the other day the rear right window comes down sporadically when I push the window button on the driver console. When it does come down I am able to get it back up but when it closes all the way thats when it doesn't want to come back down. There is a tree sap problem where I live that gets all over the car. I'm wondering if the sap particles are having an effect on the ability to lower the window. When the window is stuck all the way up I can hear the motor in the door.
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A couple of months back my driver side window began to make this terrible squeaking noise when rolled up and down. I noticed that the noise is not as bad when it is cooler out and when I run my car through the wash with wax (just an option they have at the carwash place).After some internet research I believe that the problem is with a part of window regulator mechanism.
There were a couple of options available to me:1. Replace window regulator mechanism (great instructions on pelicanparts.com). To do it on my own is about $80 (part cost) and 5-6 hours of work or $600 at the dealer's. 2. Locate the motor of window regulator, open it and clean it. Probably 5-6 hours of work, but $0!!!3. Open the door, clean inside and grease the tracks.
I opened the door and cleaned the glass and tracks – no result! I brought it back to the dealer (car is not under warranty anymore) and they were nice enough to open it again for me and grease the tracks – no result except for marks on my window and the verdict that I need to replace the regulator mechanism….
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I've just recently gotten an 06 passat 2.0t and had some questions. When I drive the car everything sounds fine until I hit a bump then I get this crunch noise from the front end. Crunch is the best way I can think to describe it because its not really a squeak. I'm new to the b6 but not dubs at all. I just had to part ways with my mk2 which I put alot of wrench time in on and I've done minor tinkering on my wifes mkv rabbit.
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I've been noticing some (a lot) of oil on the inside of my rear tire. I went ahead and drained my diff fluid to check if the was any left and there was but I replaced it and cleaned the tire (hoping I just drove through something) and it's back again already. I don't know much about axles, what seal usually holds stuff back in there? What parts should I expect to replace other than the seal and any brake components effected? I noticed a creak/crunch coming from that area but seems to crunch with suspension articulation so not sure if it's related but I have the feeling it is.
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The left rear window in my 2004 has either come off track or the retainer/clip holding the window in the truck has broken. My problem isnt fixing it, it is getting the door panel off.
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The rear window viper is stuck straight up, What to do???
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Check this out, I was driving on a road trip yesterday 300 mile round tripper and just one time the rear passenger window went down on its own. Freaked me out for a second and then had me worrying it would do it again but never did, just a glitch or ghost in the machine I guess but I didn't like it.
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My new Passat SE seems to have a band of convex (concave?) glass about halfway up the the rear window, such that when I look in the rearview, cars behind me look like they're in one of those fun house mirrors that stretches them to look taller. I'm fairly certain this is in the window and not the mirror.
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The window actuator/motor is running and going up and down but the window isn't. I am thinking the clip/hardware that attaches the window to the track has broken. My issue is getting to it. Ive had the door panel off but cant figure out getting to the area.
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All of a sudden my rear window on the passenger side does not roll down. I can hear the motor running but it won't go down. What could possibly be the problem? Is it something that is very expensive to fix? Could it be a fuse?
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My 1999 Passat has the common "power window goes up, but won't go down" problem in the right rear door. I followed the advice in this forum and re-inserted the plastic pin. A few weeks later it popped out. I re-inserted it again this time with some glue. It held for a few months before popping out again. I bought a new pin from the dealer but the new pin fits so tight it is impossible to insert it into the hole at the base of the window. Maybe I don't have enough experience jamming things into tight holes, but I suspect there is a special trick needed to insert the pin. I can see why the old pin kept popping out since it wasn't tight enough to keep it secure. How to Insert brand new Plastic Pin in Regulator?
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I have a 2008 2.0t 6mt. A few months ago I started hearing a rattle coming from either the area under the rear window or in the trunk coming from the right side. It's not just a little rattle like a screw is loose... It sounds like a large hunk of metal or plastic is flopping back and forth. It's most noticeable at low speeds on rough roads and I think it's gotten louder over time. I recently moved to Richmond VA and the roads here are horrendous. It's not a faint noise either. Each time I drive with somebody new, its the first thing they notice. Folding the rear seats down definitely makes the rattle louder. I can sorta reproduce the sound when I rock the car back and forth.
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I recently noticed that both of my break lights are out but the light in my rear window works but the other two do not. I was told it was a brake light switch but I am confused on why the window light is working and not the others i feel they should all be connected???
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