Passat (B5) :: Seems Like The Intercooler Is Leaking At The Bottom
Jul 30, 2008
I just changed the oil in the 04 GLS. It looks like the intercooler is leaking at the bottom hose. It does leave marks on the garage floor. Also I may have rear main seal leak too.
The car has 45K on it
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I've been having transmission fluid leak from my truck for a while now. Very slow leak. At first I thought it was a hard line and replaced it but it was still leaking. Then I think I found where it was coming from. It looks to be fluid dripping on the bottom of both sides of my intercooler? On both identical spots. I am guessing perhaps I had a crack on my transmission oil cooler and driving blew it into the fins of my intercooler. I took my old one off and couldn't visibly see one. I have a brand new trans cooler installed now. Haven't drove yet as I am waiting on brake parts? I couldn't think of anything else on why it would leak off the intercooler?
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Here is leaking from the nozzle on the bottom of the can.... opened my hood to check it today and it was leaking condensation and i could feel air blowing out of it. How to fix it? i have no issues cause by it, no CEL and no power loss.
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Saw a decent amount of oil residue and when I pulled the intercooler there were areas of the plastic deformed and a fairly large oil/air leak.
Truck is completely stock (93K miles) so was wondering what root cause of this might be? Just a failure of the component from age? Boost too high, suggesting an issue with the turbo?
CAC boot that connected closest to the damage may have been leaking, but not sure if that could cause that much oil spray?
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I have water leaking from bottom of motor it's look like coming from oil pan its chevy1500 1999 4/4with a v6 motor but not for sure looked at oil no water in oil it's really comes out when motor is running.
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My 89 735il is leaking coolant from under the driver's side bottom of the car. Is this a heater core problem? Temperature gauge displayed hot temp, then coolant started to leak out...
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I have a Nissan 300zx Twin Turbo 1993, the gas Tank was leaking gas at the bottom of the tank, and I patched the leak with regular materials I found in Advance Auto Parts. But after few weeks, the gas tank leaked again. The question is it easy to remove the Fuel Tank and replace it with a new Fuel Tank? or how should I repair it without removing it, before I patched it. I am savvy enough to work in cars, but I never removed Fuel Tank before.
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07 Camry LE USA built. The front line that goes down behind the radiator then towards the rear under the engine has started leaking at the bottom of the horseshoe bend. The bottom is rusted and leaking. Is there a temporary fix for this? Part is not available from the local parts stores.
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I just purchased a 2011 LE Santa Fe,(2400 mi) and have a question regarding water leaking from bottom of the engine. I called the dealer and service rep explained it is more than likely from condensation build up on heater coil and being drained through the vent tube. I believe this is normal and have observed on other vehicles I have owned during the summer months when using AC.
I don't believe I have seen this condition in the winter months 40 - 50 F degrees when using just the heater. I'm hoping this isnt systematic of another problem, that was simply explained away by dealer. It sounds logical but then, again, I have never seen it when using the heater. I do leave heater at full blast when I start the car remotely to warm up cabin temp on those cold chilly mornings.
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My front carrier is leaking at the bottom of the Ring and Pinion Cover. I am going to pull the cover and replace the gasket. I am also a believer in Amsoil full synthetics, should I use the Severe Gear 75W-90, Severe Gear 75W-110 or the Severe Gear 75W-140. How many ounces does it take. I presume to fill until the bottom of the fill hole? What are the torque specifications for the bolts?
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This is strange, Had the truck for about 3000mi bought it at 147k now has 150... Any way it runs great but the radiator started leaking from the seam close to where the bottom hose is. I have since changed the radiator about a week ago 500mi a week work truck.
Now it seems to be leaking from the very same area, what I mean is the area around the hose is dry but just up the seam a bit it barely leaks, and mainly after the truck cools off at night. These radiators seem extremely low quality, is there a substitute higher quality.
Also of note mine is the 1" core, I was told there are others but they will not fit, I must agree it seems nothing else would fit due to space constraints. These radiators just kinda sit in a cradle and aren't really under any stress that I can tell so it doesn't seem as though that would be the cause.
Also of note the shop where I bought the new one took it out of the sealed box and tank pressure tested it as they do for all new sales, no leaks, I have not pulled it back out yet cause I would like to get some thing less flimsy if it exists.
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So this is my major problem, leaving for a camping trip tomorrow afternoon. It's just 15 miles away, easy flat drive. What has happened is the trans line coming out of the bottom of radiator is leaking next to the fitting about an 1/8 ' out, So I can't cut off and splice in hose for the trip. I worked on it for about an hour, rusted on, tried some heat and now have some PB Blast on it and all I am doing is starting to round off the head of fitting. Is there any way to bypass this just to get the camper to campground and then get to a shop while we are gone Don't care if I have to splice and cut, will get new lines later.
2004 f250SD 5.4 83000miles
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With thunderstorms in my area and roads partially flooded. Something struck the bottom of my b5.5 puncturing the oil pan. The car stopped on me and wouldnt start. All electrics died as well. No oil in the car will do this right? Anyway, with Geico, I had my car towed to a shop in the area. They want 650 for a new pan and labor.
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Getting the bottom of the engine shaking problem? We have a new 07 2.0 Wagon and it has been driving fine. This afternoon after getting off the freeway (after about a 20 mile drive) came up to a stop light. Car in D, foot on brake.....car starts shaking. Running really rough. Once foot was let off, car rolled off as normal and then shaking went away. Happened 2 more times while waiting to get the a parking spot. After 10 minutes started it up and all is fine. No warning lights and it runs as expected. It has 250 miles on it.
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I have 2002 1.8T Wagon GLS with a manual climatic (with 3 big dial buttons). The weather is now getting cold and yesterday I started to realize there is no air coming from the bottom vents (both passenger and driver side) when the air flow dial button is set to bottom vents. All other positions (windshield and front vents) are all working. The air flow dial button appears to be mechanically controlled.
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A buddy of mine has a late 2000 passat 2.8. He recently developed a bad knocking at higher RPM's. I took a look at it and it is coming from the bottom end of the motor (rod bearing, crank bearing?) He has no loss of power and the knock is not there at idle.
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I picked up a '08 TSI wagon recently and noticed the bottom half of the rear defrost doesn't work & the lines are broke all on one side.
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Accidentally dropped a thin wire to the left bottom of the engine bay, Will this cause any harm to the engine?
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I have a kit of lights from my wrecked mk6 jetta for the rear bottom door lights that I would like to install on my Passat. I looked into the DIY thread for our cars and found nothing. I found some info on the Bold-Sport website but the connector at the window motor is different on the mk6 jetta compared to the Passat. My questions are:
1- Are the pins location the same to make them work on the Passat then it is for the Jetta?
2- Is the coding to activate them the same as the Jetta?
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I have a 2004 3.0 V6. The dash temperature gauge doesn't move just sits at the bottom 50C. (Canadian metric)...
I would like to locate the sender for the gauge to do a little testing. I removed a whack of plastic but nothing was obvious.
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Last week I had the Godspeen intercooler installed on my 05 Jetta GLI. I would say that since the install I have put about 300+ miles on the car so I would think that the computer has learned the additional air flow. I notice that if I'm cruising in 4th gear just below 3000 RPM's and punch it there is hesitation. It is quite noticeable because I have a full 3" inch exhaust so you can hear it hesitate for about a second and then kick in again and continue up the powerband. Do I need to get a good tune or has the computer just not learned it yet?
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