Passat (B5) :: SAI Pump Runs Intermittently After Car Is Turned Off
Jan 22, 2007
The SAI pump (part number 021 959 253 B) on my 97 Passat continues to run intermittently after the car is turned off, eventually draining the battery. How do I fix?
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So a week ago the Check Engine light comes on. I take it in and just got a call that the Secondary Cooling Pump has failed. Apparently it's a pump that cools down the turbo and other things after the car is shut off. I only have 44,000 miles on the TDI too.
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Lately when I turn the AC on my battery runs all the way down to two purple bars. The temp here is hot and it happens when I'm traveling at low speeds. The battery finally gets back up once I drive faster.
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I had my AC charged and belt replaced after this all is done I noticed the cooling fan likes to run a bunch now - its 80's outside and the cooling fan runs all the time.
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I just bought this nicely used 1991 GMC Sierra 1500 series pickup truck for $650. It started up and ran fine when I gave the seller the money - the few leaks in the break lines.
Easy fix right!
So my son (19 that knows it all) and I went and changed all the brake lines (made everything one size 3/8 line.) Filled it up with break fluid and started the truck. I had my so pumping the breaks and holding them (his first time) I bled the far rear (passenger side) then I had him turn the steering wheel to the right so I could bleed the front driver side.
He turned, and turned and turned until the engine died.
Now the truck only runs when the steering wheel is turned all the way to the right or all the way to the left.
Going to pull the codes to see what the heck is going on....
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I have a 2000 Subaru outback (150,000 miles). Recently after starting, the car will feel sluggish or like it's pulling. When I come to a complete stop it will shake and feel like it's about to shut off... and recently it has been shutting off. Last night I changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and fuel filter... after that the car was driving worse. My check engine light is on and the code is for a knock sensor. Also there was oil on my spark plugs which I believe is an idication that there is a broken or leaky gasket. I am at a loss... would the leaky or broken gasket cause car the run sluggish and stall, would a faulty knock sensor cause the the same? I also need to get my rotors changed but I don't think that would cause any of this.
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My gas filler keeps cutting the pump off and car runs bad in certain situations. I'm a vrt btw so I have eliminated the Sai crap and have the n80 solenoid detached from the vac lines but still hooked in electrically. EVAP Charcoal canister Delete....
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The cooling fan runs on high as soon as the a/c is turned on, regardless of the engine temp. I have the sensor(6F9Z-19D594-AA) that mounts on top of the accumulator. If i replace the existing sensor, will the refrigerant leak out?
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The last 3 times I have tried to fill up, I have had about 1/3 of a tank. Tthe pump runs for ~15 -20 litres and then shuts off. I cannot fill any further. I have 9/16ths in the tank now, 360km to empty. I will phone the dealer tomorrow. 42000km now.
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My plan to clean the fuel injectors on my 2008 Silverado LS 4.8L V8 came to an abrupt halt when I was unable to disable the fuel pump relay because it is missing from the spot where it should be located according to the schematic in the owner's manual. Would removing the "fuel system control module" (fuse #21) instead of the fuel pump relay work?
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Purchased a 2006 prius not too long ago with just over 100k miles.
I like the car, I average about 42-44 mpg. It is really for my commuting. The question I have is it seems like my brake pump runs all the time. When I take my foot off the brakes, it runs, when im in a drive-thru, my battery drains super quickly, however if i put in park instead of leaving it in drive while in the drive-thru, it does not.
My only thought is there is something wrong with my brake pump and the way it drains batteries.
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 4.0 SOHC engine, I have had some cold start problems. I cleaned the IAC and the problem went away for a few months and then came back. Two days ago the temps got very cold and it would not start at all, I re-cleaned the IAC and still no start. I replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump and engine started right away. Now I have a rough idle, bad skip and bad exhaust odor. I am still thinking IAC but I am concerned that the aftermarket fuel pump is pumping to high pressure or that I may have crimped the return line. I have driven about 30 miles hoping the computer would make adjustments, still runs rough and the check engine light has not come on.
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My 92 F250 5.8 won't start but fuel pump runs all the time the key is on. Some times it runs. But has no power and check engine light is on.. But I cant get it to flash codes, only steady light on.. It did this before then ran good. Now back to no start.. I checked grounds and relays ..
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Went to start my truck (2003, 7.3 F250) one evening and I found the headlights on. No keys in the ignition and the truck hadn't been driven for 2 days. There was a strong smell of plastic and or electrical components burning in the cab. The truck started without a problem. I shut it off and the lights remained on. Cycling the MFS and light switch would not turn the lights off. I had to disconnect the batteries and leave it till time allowed for trouble shooting.
I've had it in my shop for three months now and this is what I've found so far.
-Source of the burn smell is coming from the fuse panel. More specific it's coming from a bulkhead that plugs into the panel. One pin connected to a White wire with 2 purple traces. I've traced this wire to one of 2 small relay packs in the engine compartment next to the driver side fender. I've replaced the relay this white/purple wire connects to as a precaution. This did not remedy my trouble.
-The local ford dealer told me this relay was for the A/C clutch. I located a 10amp fuse in position 10 and removed it. The headlights finally turned off.
-I started the truck and the A/C compressor clutch still engaged and ran. Smoke began to pour from the fuse panel once again. I killed the truck and head lights remained off. All done with the fuse in position 10 removed.
Here's where it gets weird!
-With the key/engine off and I turn the headlight switch on and MFS to low beam the fuel pump is running. Change the MFS to high beams and the fuel pump turns off.
I've looked over the wiring harness and there are no noticeable problems indicating multiple wires being shorted. How are all these issues related?
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
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When I turn on my headlight the instrument panel will intermittently not light up. Is this a known problem for this concern and what is the remedy for this problem?
And with the HVAC, when I turn the HVAC to max a/c (even though is won't be until spring or summer) I have problems with the a/c wanting to turn off at times almost like automatic climate control, but it isn't that.
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My car was sitting outside and wasnt started for about 4 months. It has a brand new battery so when I went to start it, it started right up first crank, ran smooth for 10 seconds then you hear the sound of a ton of water being bubbled and pushed out the exhaust, then the car studders and turned off. There was a big puddle of water near the exhaust. I tried starting the car the day after a few times and all it does is crank but will not start, battery is 100% and its cranks with no problem but will not start at all, it's like dead, the check engine light went on after trying to crank it today too. I'm lost. I figured there was too much water pressure in the exhaust but nope won't start now, the battery is good, electronics are good, has fresh gas, not sure about the lines but like I said it started right up yesterday.
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Its a 2005 awp 1.8t gti with 180K stage 2 apr. When i tune the key to the accessories on position I used to hear the fuel pump priming but now I don't and the car wont start.
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I have a 2003 camry v6 that doesn't start. There is no power to the fuel pump when the key is turned to the on position. Where is the relay for the fuel pump?
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I have a 94 Corolla with 239 K After pulling into my drive way and turning the car off I went back to start it ..Car turned over but no start ...ok backed the car out of the drive used the other car . Came back the next day car started pulled it back into the driveway ....Went to start it again later that day ..no start this happened for a couple of days ..It would start and then it wouldn’t..... Checked the fuel pump ..its not working ..The relay is good ..
There is power coming into the fuel pump but. Only one lead with power ...I power the fuel pump direct and it works ...I take it to a shop to have them look at it and they say I have no spark and that there is power going to my fuel pump ..he said there was power but he did not say if the fuel pump worked ...The gas gauge works but the fuel pump still .
So the fuel pump works if i power it direct and I have no spark ..so I could change the distributor & coil and go back to checking ground wires to the fuel pump BUT anything else going on that might be causing these issues. The car was running perfect before this happened.
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i have had this problem before where the relay for the electric fuel pump would quit intermittently, and had it fixed. but, i suspect this is acting up again. so, i was gonna do it myself. there are 2 relays strapped to the radiator overflow can. is one of them the relay i am seeking?
What started all this, motor was running really rough at idle, but ran ok once moving. So, I replaced the spark plugs, and cleaned the contact areas in/on the cap and bug. motor started right up, and actually sounded good... for about 10 or so seconds, then it died, like the gas was shut off. I do have spark.
How to check/test the fuel pump relay and could pass this info on to me would be good. i do have test light, and DMM.
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