Passat (B5) :: Rough Start In Chilly Mornings - Fires Up And Then Seems To Get Choked Up
Sep 13, 2010
I just bought a 2005 passat wagon 4motion 1.8t to haul the dogs and future kid around in. Car has extremely low miles (23k) and is pretty much in perfect condition. Love everything about it, except...
It seems to have a bit of trouble starting on chilly mornings (not cold yet, maybe 60f?). It will start, but it fires up and then seems to get choked up to the point of almost dying sometimes, runs a little rough for a minute or so with a throaty exhaust sound and then it perks up and runs fine. I've noticed it tends to be running at a slightly higher RPM when it's running poorly in those first few minutes, and then it drops to normal.
When we bought the car, I quickly realized the temp gauge wasn't working. It turned out to be the temp sensor (seems to be a common problem) and I hoped it would solve the rough start, but it did not.
What could be causing this? We're starting to approach fall/winter, and if it's doing this now I can only imagine what it's going to do in November. I'd like to get this sorted as soon as possible, even though it's not a show stopper right this minute.
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I have 2009 corolla with about 125, 000 on it. A few times over the past couple of weeks on chilly mornings (in the 50's) the transmission did not engage in reverse right away. Usually with the fast idle you can feel it kick in but on these days it takes a few seconds before that happens. I have had the car for two years and have done nothing about transmission service. A dealer told me it was lifetime fluid and there is no dip stick to check it. Is this a common problem? Is this a sign the trans is on the way out? Should I sell the car now before it gets worse?
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Ok, I have owned my 02 Passat with the 30V 2.8L V6 since may. I got it with 115K and now its just under 129K I had the timing belt done at Jimmy's in Provo UT at 126K and up until then the engine ran great. Since the belt was replaced <along with the water pump and such> . The car has a tendency to feel like its idling rough, and when you start it up first thing on a cold morning it sounds like the valves are rattling. It does this for a brief second then goes away until the next time you start it in the cold morning. It wont do this if its warm outside, or after you start it previously that day. So far I have replaced the plugs with Bosch Platinum 2 prong plugs, and replaced the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump when it dead on me without warning about 2 months ago.
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Alright I thought changing a fuel filter was fool proof but I changed the fuel filter in my 2001 escape v6. awd and now for some reason it wont start right up like it used too before the filter change. It cranks for a few seconds then fires up and runs perfectly fine it sits for a few hours same issue where as before the filter change it fired up fine every time, what did I do wrong. 2001 ford escape...
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ES V6 Auto 84,000 miles Five times since the summer of 2010 my 2004 Tribute has left me sit. In each occasion it attempted to start but choked out as though it wasn't getting gas. It will then crank and crank (new battery a year ago), but it just will not turn over. Every time but one, it fired right up on the first attempt the next day. The one time it didn't, it fired up for the tow truck driver on his first attempt after I had tried multiple times before he showed up. It runs perfectly other than this problem. It fires up strong. It runs strong. No hesitation. No misfires.
I changed the Idle Air Control Valve back in January when it died on me, but that wasn't it. Once again, I came back the next morning and it fired right up. I did notice this last time that I didn't hear the fuel pump prime when I turned the key (before turning the key to start). I'm not sure if I noticed that previously. Does this sound like a fuel pump issue given that it only occurs when I go to start it? The dealer and a local garage say the same thing... They would need to keep it until they can duplicate the problem. I don't see this as an option since the problem doesn't happen that often. I've never had it in for diagnostics but I've heard that the codes are deleted once it starts. Is this true?
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My car stopped starting reliably last winter. Since my driveway is on a hill and I have a clutch, I'd roll back and pop the clutch to start it (or just make the kids push - it builds character, right?). I finally broke down and put a new battery in it about a month ago. It still occasionally won't start. It seems worse if the weather is chilly. When it fails to start, the engine will turn over a few times, slower and slower each time, and then die. If I turn the key again right away, nothing - just the "click." If I wait about 2 minutes, it roars to life like nothing ever happened. Doesn't seem like an alternator problem. It's green.
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I have a 2010 which lately has been having difficulty starting on chilly days. That's saying something considering i live in Memphis, where the cold days are relatively mild. Sometimes it will hesitate on turning over, start and then my gauges flutter and the car shakes a little. Other times it makes a high pitched cranking noise. I haven't taken it anywhere yet because it seems to exclusively happen in the morning after the car has been sitting for 10 hours.
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Mornings are cooler now in connecticut. I mention that at cold start my Prius C idles pretty rough.
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I have a 2010 euro spec GTI DSG with 140.000 km (86.000 miles)
The problems i have..
- Rough vibrations.
- The car starts quick but there is big jolt when the engine fires, shifts or turns of.
What has been done to the car
**New mechatronic 30.000 km ago (replaced with new revision on warranty)
** Oil , filter , plugs
** Carbon cleaning by myself yesterday
** DSG calibration done
** No errors codes
I am thinking its mounts to the engine or transmission? Other things I am thinking of ...
- Coils packs?
- PCV?
- MAF?
The car is little low on power as it struggle on uphills on low speed, but much better after carbon cleaning.
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I've got a 2011 lexus es350 with a bad transmission. I purchased the car 4 months ago with 50,000 miles on it. I noticed in the carfax that the transmission fluid was changed at 25,000 miles??? I knew that wasn't normal. After having the car for 4 months i noticed the transmission would shift rough in the mornings. I took it to lexus and they added more transmission fluid to the tranny. After I got the car back it had no getup and go. And the car would stutter when revving at high rpm.
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The car idles rough on cold mornings but runs fine. It will stall while idling but starts back easily. I am getting a 1131 and a 1151 code with my scanner along with 0300 and lean bank 1 codes. I started having these problems after I had to remove the upper intake to replace coil packs. I was getting egr code and had an egr port completely block off but cleaned that out and no longer get the egr codes. Spraying carb cleaner around the engine I get a very slight bump in rpm around a couple of the intake ports could that be my problem or should I look deeper?
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I had this issue with my car when I had just purchased it almost 4.5 years ago. I had this bad odor in the car in the mornings. The dealer had treated the AC system and had told me that VWOA only pays once for that treatment and that I will have to pay myself if it returns or needs to be done again. Even if I drive and park the car and return after an hour or more, the odor comes back.
I have an even worst smell in the car now. It started a couple of days ago. It goes away once I start moving the car or turn on th AC. The dealer had indicated that it was due to the AC not running frequently. Now I have the AC running most of the time (S. FLorida heat) and had also replaced my cabin filter approx 5000 miles ago.
Any solution for this. Anything I can try myself. I know a few of you had this issue. Is there anything that you did yourself to fix it!
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I was driving along the highway and started losing power and within a few minutes I pulled over and and would not start. It turns over strong but never fires up. I recently had a Coil over plug replaced. I am thinking fuel filter or ignition coil hoping it is not a fuel pump.
2004 4-Motion, 1.8 turbo, Tiptronic Trans.
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my 2003 ion saturn will not start on cold mornings. after i wait a couple of minutes or more it will start. what is the problem. it has 97,000 miless on it.
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94 Saab will not start in the mornings , it cranks but wont fire , runs fine later in day with no problems at all . Than next morning a repeat performance of not starting.
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Every time it rains and I forget and leave the truck outside instead of inside the garage, it will not start. It is a 2001 Dodge Dakota pickup truck. It tries to start but will not fire. I have to sit around and wait for a few dry days and full sun - which is hard to find around here other than August and September. I have had it towed to several different mechanics for review. They have all done the same thing - can't find anything wrong so they leave it sit around the lot for two or three weeks until the sun shines then charge me a hundred bucks or so for their diagnostic time and a jump start. Every once in a while out of shear frustration, I have it towed to a new mechanic or one of the previous ones but still get the same results. Does fine in the winter with snow, but it has even done it on occasion when going through a car wash - which I know longer do as I am too old to be pushing a pickup out of a car wash.
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Haven experienced a couple of times now that my B6 3.2 VR6 (V6) have a little problem to start, it seem to start up fine then shuts down - and one will have to keep starting it for some time before it finaly fires up correctly........
I have not experienced yet this behaviour when the car is warm, and personally I'm starting to think about the injector coil stuff thingy - but haven't done a vag-com yet, but will do.
I know the 3.2 was only uin EU, but basically pretty much the same as the 3.6, they are both a VR system
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But it will start later in the day or when the temp is above -15C (5F) the car has a one year old battery, it has synthetic oil. Should we change the spark plugs? the car is 10 year old and they have never been changed.
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I have a 1.8 02 Passat. On cold mornings (25 or below) the brakes are extremely hard. When it warms up outside they are fine. No one seems to know the problem.
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Seems like sometimes on cold start ups the car hesitates before it fires up. Thoughts?
Start up IS-F - YouTube
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I brought my 2000 9-5 Saab to Jiffy Lube on July 13th. On July 18th, it wouldn't start. It would turn over and everything, but it would just sit there and do the, "ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh." I waited half an hour, and tried it again and to my surprise, it started. I drove it home without issue. The next morning, it did the same thing, but this time, it didn't start. Had it towed to the Saab guy, he says there's no compression in two of the cylinders and that it's going to be $1000 to fix the thing. I called someone for a second opinion, and he asked if I had run out of oil because no compression usually means an issue with the oil or something. Could Jiffy Lube have done something to cause an issue, and if so, is there anything that I can do about it?
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